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^I food-shame the car and tell her that all the attractive boys wont like her unless she's under 2900lbs, and I point out dodge challengers SXTs and Camaros RS' and tell her that she doesnt want to be like those fatties. I only let her eat celery and make her chew sugar free gum.
Originally Posted by WTFMike
Awesome work. What else are you going to get rid of to get the car from 2950 to below 2900?
It may be close...heres the plan - deductions taken from the 3035lbs
call this phase 'chasing nickels'...
1/4 to 1/2 tank of gas (-42lbs) (I didnt relize traditional gasoline weighs less than water ~6.3lbs/gall) 2gallons of wm (-24lbs)
exhuast & Y pipe delete (obviously temporary) (-21lbs)
headlight blanks - temporary (-8lbs)
remove misc stuff in car(-14lbs)
considering running the advans up front (-12lbs)
wiperblades/motor delete - temporary (-8lbs)
window panel mod (-6lbs)
+/-130lbs ... so it'll be close!
At some point I'm gonna have to talk to the man in the mirror and slim him up!!!!
Down the road I'd still like to get a dry/prepreg cf hatch, considering going to a ~6-8gallon fuel cell, cf or kirkey seat(which would require a cage)...
so lets start lexan ... I'll preface everything in that if I can't get the bend/arc/curve in the windows than I'll run OEM glass. Every one thinks lexan is unbelievable lightweight ... I estimate a lexan window will yeild 3 to 4 lbs per window...
I like that video...I'll be mimic'ing that methodology for my sexy-sass replacement CF hatch. The guy was using a thinner sheet of lexan that what would be required for a z33 door window. The door windows essentially need to be self-supporting ... I got a 1/4" thick lexan which doesnt flex and the heating/molding process isnt working out ... well.
Why reduce weight to this extent? Props for the effort but its so much work for diminishing returns. Besides, weight helps to put power to the ground - frictional force and all that... If you're trying to change the power to weight ratio, it's easily done on the power side with a boosted application, right?
Why reduce weight to this extent? Props for the effort but its so much work for diminishing returns. Besides, weight helps to put power to the ground - frictional force and all that... If you're trying to change the power to weight ratio, it's easily done on the power side with a boosted application, right?
a few thoughts...and I appreciate your input and guidance -
There will be point where I can't do much more...I'll speculate and say around 2750 to 2800 ... from a cost perspective, yes - there is a point of diminished returns ... from an overall performance standpoint it's my opinion that (assuming things are balanced) you can't be too light, and furthermore, you cant have a power to weight ratio too small.
having weight on the drive wheels and maintaining as close to a 47/53 balance is in the back of my head.
For all intents and purposes my power will be as high as I can safely run for the setup...it may not be there now but in the future I'll get re-tuned to where boost & power cannot be increased.
Solely my opinion but a high hp setup (~600-650whp) will benefit from a lighter chassis...the the closer I am to my absolute lowest weight the more each pound saved will impact acceleration.
our local track (like most) has a high octane & e85 pump onsite along with a scale. I'd like to essentially run a few passes with 3 gallons, 9 gallons, 15 gallons of fuel a compare how the numbers look? Furthermore, look into a few sandbags it the hatch to see how the additional traction vs. the additional weight effects ETs. At the end of the day, this is just one big science experiment.
I personally like that you went to such an extent to reduce weight. Its different. I think in the future, once you start seeing issues like traction or odd suspension behavior, you should invest in some good aero parts to keep it all planted at speed.
I plan on some weight reduction in the future, just not as extreme maybe 200-300lbs and a 6 point roll cage.
Go big or go home! If nothing more it's uncharted territory for a TT z to be this light.
A buddy has that 1800lbs / 430hp lotus elise and the car is a rocket ship ... medium sized turbo on a built honda k20...it's the fastest car I've ever driven and with no traction control available he keeps traction on straight pulls (likely bc when the turbo overcomes lag the wheels are already moving).
I dont think my traction (as it relates to a drag strip) suffers all that much...
#1 - Im not running a outrageous amount of power ... I'm capable of 600 to 700hp ... running too much more than that is risking the engine
#2 - I launch with with traction control on ... not a popular choice but the OEM VTC is much better at sensing slip than I am.
if I start road-couring this car, it may become apparent that I need to put weight back in the rear to balance things out -
I do appreciate everyones input / constructive criticism
Had the car out a few times over the weekend and increased my boost control solenoid duty cycle to 30% (from 20%) and around 16psi I believe I was getting some spark blow-out. I'll be dropping my gap from .027"-.030" to .022"-.025" and see how it does.
After thought side edit:
I wonder if my lighter 40amp (albeit 56 amps around 6000rpm) alternator and lightweight battery is the cause of the spark issues ... if the alt / battery simply cant keep up with the current demand of running the engine that fast? Might be time to swap the OEM back in??
Furthermore, my oil pressure sending unit went out and my triple gauge is reading 1000psi of oil pressure. And my dash lights / far left gauge (temp/fuel econo/timer/TPMS) is out ... checked fuses and nothing is jumping out at me...might be a ground??
Wasnt able to go to the drag-strip last wednesday as we had our first hockey playoff game. We lost 5-2 so I thought I would be able to get there next wednesday (as our season is officially over) nope, turns out the other team was using 'borrowed' players. Score keeper caught it and it was an automatic loss - turns out were back in it.
New BOV installed ... went with a tial q 50mm. Mounted in the same location. Im using a similar AN3 fitting (rather than the supplied bango). Gonna run the two (combined) springs that I have left over for the old greddy BOV. The 10psi spring supplied is crazy stiff and I think it's too much.
also picked up a couple of sisters ...
Engine #1 had blown head gaskets but block and crank should be good
Engine #2 unknown condition but came with some nice goodies (a JWT intake, plenum spacer, engine harness) sorta excited to disassemble and see what's inside.
Good find on the 2 motors. I have been following you build to see if you come up with some interesting mods for the greddy setup. I like your manifold/Dow pipe setup, so props on that. Following you closely dude! Don't quit!
I appreciate the kind words ... I don't think I'm anything special and I have a lot more experience to gain.
Truth be told, I ground-down the welds on my first attempt bc I wasn't happy with how it came out. I didn't use enough heat and it was sorta spotchy - I was out of practice...but I grabbed some scrap and ran beads for 15minutes to freshen up.
mildy dejected all the sudden ... was gonna get to the track tonight ... thought I smelled burning oil and I forgot to hook my air temp sensor back up so I pulled off on a side street (about 9 miles past the house), plugged the sensor wire back in and peered under the car and sure-enough I'm dripping oil ... turned it around and drove home.
07-22-2018, 08:45 AM
