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two votes for 27psi ... Youre running E85, yea? It'll be a game time decision -
I saw your IG post - I was hoping for a video!!
Thanks for the confirmation.
I sliced into the oil pressure sensor loom and borrowed 5volts from that circuit (for the coolant pressure sensor) and piggy-backed a wire onto the 0-5v output from the OEM oil pressure sensor that I'll send to the link. I also ran the wire from the coolant pressure sensor.
My fuel pressure sensor is wired to a cabin gauge and I'll piggyback that signal to the Link as well.
I agree with running high quality sensors - I actually think the coolant pressure sensor is pretty stout. I will look to purchase nicer/higher quality sensors after my tune. If the tune was dependent on these signals I'd get new gauges ASAP but in reality, their function is to notify the link of extreme high or extreme low scenarios. And having these in place is better than nothing at all.
Yeah, I'm running E85. So far 27psi seems pretty easy for my turbo. My exhaust back pressure is really good, around a 1:1. I'll hopefully get a couple quick vids this weekend.
I tend to agree, you should be able to get away with your sensors since they don't need to be real precise. Outside of your fuel pressure, MAP, and O2 sensors. I've had so many fuel issues over the years that my fuel pressure sensor has saved my motor. I'll always run a quality sensor there.
Do you have a date set for the dyno? Your car should be pretty beastly once it's tuned.
I'll upgrade them shortly and really it'd be wise to put legit oill pressure sensor in first, the fuel pressure sensor is an Autometer so I feel relatively comfortable with that.
Wednesday Sept 19th - 12noon confirmed. I'll get to the shop around 9am or so and get prepped. The scary thing now is getting the ECU in the car, getting the aforementioned sensors pinned-in and talking to the ECU and then ensuring my base map is good enough to get to the shop. I have a 350z base map but there are a bunch of stuff to check along the way.
Getting the pin-out going ... I have a donor ecu connector in the wires box so it served as a template to do a dry-run on.
The pin-out isnt too labor intensive. I need two input pins for widebands and an PWM output for the boost control solenoid. To get the fuel pressure, oil pressure, and coolant pressure into the Link I need three additional analog inputs.
Link has been pretty helpful along the way. They have a chat feature on their website and the techs are pretty knowledgable.
Widebands:
Utilize the OEM wideband pins (pin 16 and pin 35)
Boost Control:
I can use an analog output. I was instructed to use one of the O2 heater circuits (pin 24). Both by Link and by the fellow member. I dont completely understand how/why the heater circuit would be a pulse width style but two sources say it's good.
Coolant Pressure:
Using the AC pressure input (as I dont have AC this pin is open) I can use pin 70
Fuel Pressure:
Using the MAF input (as I dont run a MAF) pin 51 is open
Oil Pressure:
Using the Cruise Control Switch input pin 99.
Well I dumb...dumb dumb dumb - all the work getting the 3 rescue sensors was for nothing ... Wasnt as simple as I anticipated in that Jason (tuner at PSI) needs scale, voltage, psi specifics to each sensor - which is cool...I think that's what everyone was telling me...
The AEM UEGOs work fine providing the Link a wideband o2 signal but I did need to buy another $20 harness for the second gauge. The boost control solenoid is powered by the AT controller fuse in the front fuse box - worked out fine (I believe - going to test with with a light).
Got everything buttoned up last night and reinstalled for today where I could focus on getting my access code, base map imported, and car started. Which wasnt too difficult. Both Jason and Link Tech support helped me out. I got the car started on my own but it was fuuuugggggggly!!! Jason remote'd in to my laptop at the house and did 15minutes of work with the engine off and about 30minutes of work with the engine idle'ing and I basically ready to go - watching my laptop was like watching art.
Tomorrow is my day - I have a noon appointment which will give me plenty of time to get up and going and then get on the road and over to the shop.
A few tasks wrapped up included flushing the engine oil, adding 7quarts of fresh 10w along with a new filter. Also swapped out the AN-10 fittings for AN-8 fittings on the oil filter relocation kit and installed the 2nd half of the kit. This is temporary as I need to remove the filter sandwich plate and run my hoses off the relocation kit - but I didnt have time tonight.
Got to the dyno at 12noon and set the car up and we did a few light throttle passes and moved onto pushing the car. We pushed the car up to 17psi and the car made 568hp / 544tq.
We made a few more passes and Jason was noticing some lean conditions up in the 5k RPM range - so he modified the map and we took the car down to 14psi and the lean conditions continued so we dropped the boost back down to 12psi and it was safe to get home. Jason and I chatted for 5 to 10minutes about moving forward. I didnt mind cutting the session short and I'm happy Jason was doing the tuning as he picked up on lean condition.
So I going to look into a larger fuel pump - such as a walbro 450. I run the DW 300 lph and it's not sufficient to push the car past 15-18psi. I'm also going to get the 3 safe-guard sensors installed and wired in. From there Jason can use this same map and increase boost to the 15psi to 18psi range for daily non-track driving.
Furthermore, I can pick-up ~100octane fuel from this shop and Jason can make a higher psi map - something in the 21-24 psi range. I think pushing the car to 27psi is unrealistic and I need to manage my expectations a little bit better. But we can make that call later on.
no video - it crossed my mind but I was trying to play an active roll between Jason and the dyno operator. I'll grab some next time. Hoping to be back in a week or so.
I thought I saw a guy drop a walbro 450 into the OEM fuel basket ... is this an acceptable method??
Yes it is. Prior to my CJM twin pumps I used a 450 in an oem hanger. And thatv35guy currently uses a 450 in an oem hanger with a Kenne Bell Boost-A-Pump. It's not hard to modify the hanger to accept it. I'll see if I an dig up a couple pics.
570/545 is great numbers with just 17lbs! I'm jealous over here, hoping I can hit the rollers myself too once my modifications are finished
nah, dont be jealous - you'll be there in no-time! I was pretty stoked when I saw the 568/544. It's one of those "I'm pleased but not satisfied" moments.
Originally Posted by tcode
DW300 should be sufficient for that power level. Did you power it with thicker wires and separate relay?
Still, Walbro 450 is better choice for further power gains. I'm at 900+ HP with just one Walbro 450 pump and meth injection.
edit: on a pum gas. If you use E85, that's a different story..
'should be' - key word. I think the pump is aging and isnt pushing like it should be. On the final pull I watched my fuel pressure drop from mid-high 60psi to mid-high 40psi and I could see in my data-log I was going lean at higher RPMs - when Jason was talking about this is was freaking me out and I almost wanted to stop the session.
The pump is wired in directly as the original OEM fuel pump - If I remember correctly the wiring is pretty beefy but I'll make a note to look once I get everything apart and it's running off the OEM relay - did you do a separate relay?
But yea, big picture - if I want to push the turbos to 20-24psi I need more fuel - so the 450 was inevitable. Yea - 91 octane pump gas.
with all this being said - got the 450 ordered today. Should be here Tuesday. I'm also looking at sensors ... everyone here should know that I love Autometer but AEM make some solid stuff too - I need two 100psi and one 50psi sensors ... opinions??
Im hoping I can use the 17psi map at this upcoming 1/2mile event. I dont know that I have the cash for more dyno time / tuning time over the next few weeks.
I'm freaking out all the sudden - comments and insight welcome ...
oil filter relocation kit installed and two things are becoming deadly apparent ...
first - I distinctly remember grabbing my oil cooler and noticing that it wasnt nearly as hot as I would have thought and not nearly as hot as the pre-turbo oil cooler.
second - The filter relocation kit has 'polarity' i.e. in to in and out to out.
I honestly can say I am not sure how I hooked it up as I had 500 things on my mind ... and I am starting to thing my lines were crossed ... basically the life of my engine is a 50% : 50% chance of being pulled and rebuilt.
after putting air pressure on the filter side of the kit there is a back-flow valve on the filter which make sense. Can the OEM oil pump push-through this valve?? and oil would just flow in reverse??
how long could an oil starved engine run before it completely seizes up? I drove the car 45minutes to the dyno, 2 hours / 15 hard pulls, and 45minute drive home from the dyno...theres no way an oil starved engine could run that long before crapping-out right??
All my oil pressure sensors were giving me pressure ... but I believe they are all placed pre-filter so it'd make sense that they see pressure if a possible blockage is at the filter.
I'm gonna drop the oil and see whats in it...I'm freaking out!!
update:
nothing in the engine oil, no chunks, nothing silver, looks ok...(deep breaths, deep breaths)
pre-turbo filter has some metal reminisce ... I dont know if I should freak out as I think I've cleaned this filter once in the last 2 years??
I wouldn't worry just yet. It couldn't hurt to starting having a sample sent out and checked when you do oil changes from now. But you'd really just be tracking trends. If it was starved for oil it would lock up pretty quickly. I speak from experience. On my last built motor I hit something and ripped off an oil cooler hose. The oil light came on and it was locked up 10 secs later.
The 450 pump should flow enough fuel for your goals on 91. I couldn't dig up any pics of how to put it in the oem hanger. But I think thatv35guy has an assembly in his garage. When he is back from Supras in Vegas I'm sure he can get a couple pics.
I wouldn't worry just yet. It couldn't hurt to starting having a sample sent out and checked when you do oil changes from now. But you'd really just be tracking trends. If it was starved for oil it would lock up pretty quickly. I speak from experience. On my last built motor I hit something and ripped off an oil cooler hose. The oil light came on and it was locked up 10 secs later.
The 450 pump should flow enough fuel for your goals on 91. I couldn't dig up any pics of how to put it in the oem hanger. But I think thatv35guy has an assembly in his garage. When he is back from Supras in Vegas I'm sure he can get a couple pics.
I appreciate your insight. Its one of those things - half my brain says its just something stupid and the other half says freak-out. I was really expecting chunks of metal to be pouring out of the oil pan. The metal from the 'pre-turbo' filter could be journal bearing metal from the turbos based on the color - who knows? The car is up in the air and I'll poke around the underside tomorrow and hopefully get the car out.
I dremel-etched "in" and "out" and hose assignments on the two filter relocation pieces so that I wont make this mistake again. I'm tempted to put AN-10 fittings/hose on one leg and AN-8 fittings/hose on the other leg of the kit so it'd be impossible to mix-up ... sorta how you cant fit a diesel pump spout into a gasoline tank opening ... ever notice that?
No worries on the 450, member Tony-T (I think) same member who (quite possibly) is the first member to go Link G4+ and pointed me to PSI in Portland and Link also runs a 450 and he sent me the DIY thread for it.
Do you think the 450lph would support 24psi / 750hp on a 100 or 104octane fuel? Sounds like TCode is doing that much with european pump gas and a healthy dose of methanol - I think he is pretty close to sea level (is that Right TCode?)
I did get two AEM stainless steel pressure sensors ordered for the Link - should be here next week.
I wonder too - for the $25 cost, should I replace my fuel pump relay?
09-13-2018, 10:27 PM
