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I would think that the 450 would flow enough fuel to hit 750 on 100 octane. You mentioned you're using the stock fuel pump wiring. So you don't have the pump hard wired to the battery? If not you should do that. I use the factory pump wire to trigger my relay that is wired directly to the battery.
I would think that the 450 would flow enough fuel to hit 750 on 100 octane. You mentioned you're using the stock fuel pump wiring. So you don't have the pump hard wired to the battery? If not you should do that. I use the factory pump wire to trigger my relay that is wired directly to the battery.
No - I got the pump wired OEM style ... I think the pump is utilizing the OEM wire harness/plug too.
I can conceptualize this but can you go into this a little bit? Or is it in your thread? I'm hesitant to wire directly to the battery bc I have the smaller battery but possible off a jumper fuse?
Does anyone know of a port (post-filter/off the block ) where I can take a oil pressure reading? (I'm still beside myself with this oiling scare...)
Here is what I'm talking about. Look at the one on the left. You run the power through a relay. Use the oem pump trigger wire to give power to the relay.
You could even buy a kit that is already put together. But you're pretty handy you could put together your own kit from a auto parts store.
I think everything is fine with my engine ... I got everything hooked up and got the car started and nothing out of the ordinary. With the car being up in the air I took the time to inspect the underside of the engine, turbos, downpipes, etc and nothing jumped out at me.
In a effort to minimize/eliminate the chance of mixing up the hoses again I changed one leg to 5/8" diameter. With this relocation kit, I eliminated the oil filter sandwich plate and spliced the oil cooler between the filter and engine block.
Pump should be here tomorrow...Im hopped up on adrenaline (I can't sleep after our mens rec league hockey games) and decided to crack the tank and remove the OEM fuel basket. Fuel basket out, disassembled, and marked-up per the DIY. Tbh, I'm not a huge fan of dropping the 450 into a hacked OEM basket only to be secured by a hose clamp!!!
sidenote: I've done my best to remove any and all zip ties and hose clamps from the car. Replace with T-band clamps and twisted stainless steel wire or electrical tape.
But, until CJM releases the dual pump basket my hand is forced - that's fine. Taking a deep breath, for $105 I can fix this problem (I'll put my feelings on the shelf). I can always revisit once CJM finalizes the redesign and do it right.
Right ... I'm just gonna smile knowing that this is the best solution readily available and I can always clean it up later. It's not like the CJM baskets are popping up everywhere!
Right ... I'm just gonna smile knowing that this is the best solution readily available and I can always clean it up later. It's like like the CJM baskets are popping up everywhere!
Yeah, I've had my 450 in the OEM pump assembly for over 25k miles now without any issues. It worked so well I just decided to put it on a 20V Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump, that should have me sorted to 700+ whp, don't know if I'll even purchase a twin pump now, might just buy a new assembly and throw in a 525 Hellcat pump for $280.
Yeah, I've had my 450 in the OEM pump assembly for over 25k miles now without any issues. It worked so well I just decided to put it on a 20V Kenne Bell Boost-a-Pump, that should have me sorted to 700+ whp, don't know if I'll even purchase a twin pump now, might just buy a new assembly and throw in a 525 Hellcat pump for $280.
I'm gonna go the Boost-a-pump route myself. Plus who doesn't wanna save money? Not knocking CJM's Products as I am running their S2 Fuel return which I love, this is just too easy of a mod to solve Fueling demands.
I'm gonna go the Boost-a-pump route myself. Plus who doesn't wanna save money? Not knocking CJM's Products as I am running their S2 Fuel return which I love, this is just too easy of a mod to solve Fueling demands.
Yeah, CJM is awesome, this was just a really easy way to immediately get more juice out of my fuel pump in a few minutes. I was having issues with fuel pressure dropping about 16 psi once I upgraded my turbo to the 6266.
I'm gonna go the Boost-a-pump route myself. Plus who doesn't wanna save money? Not knocking CJM's Products as I am running their S2 Fuel return which I love, this is just too easy of a mod to solve Fueling demands.
Supposedly this winter ... but yea, it's hard to argue with $100 pump and you're back on it.
Pretty easy assembly - I replaced the 1/4 rubber hose and everything slid into place better than what the DIY said it would. Also pinned and wired the sensors.
fired the car up and it was 'gurgly' first 15seconds but settled down after that.
I'm gonna try to get back on the dyno but I may be able to road-tune / road-verify my fuel pressure is good. The engine is tuned to 17psi but my boost control is zero'd out. If I knew more about the link I'd turn it back up but that's the tuners job.
One map I am perplexed with is the traction control map...The link isnt as inclusive as the OEM in that (I believe) I can only activate traction control when the front wheel speed deviates off the rear wheel speed - as opposed to a OEM VDC right : left difference. Any guidance on this would be appreciated - Link gives you plenty of leash to setup the TC maps.
there's a 1/2mile, 1/4mile, 1/8mile event Oct 6 & 7 I'm registered for so I'm hoping I have plenty of time to get the car right.
Do you think the 450lph would support 24psi / 750hp on a 100 or 104octane fuel? Sounds like TCode is doing that much with european pump gas and a healthy dose of methanol - I think he is pretty close to sea level (is that Right TCode?)
I did get two AEM stainless steel pressure sensors ordered for the Link - should be here next week.
I wonder too - for the $25 cost, should I replace my fuel pump relay?
Actually I'm over 900 hp with just one Walbro 455 fuel pump and WMI injection. 10:1 CR and aggressive cams helps on that task.
And you need thicker wires for that pump. I can bet, with stock wirings, on boost you have a big voltage drop on pump terminals - not good man.
And you need thicker wires for that pump. I can bet, with stock wirings, on boost you have a big voltage drop on pump terminals - not good man.
help me out TCode & Mike - I’m not completely clear on how to wire the pump directly to the battery / relay - spoon feed me here bc I’m not conceptualizing it:
Step #1 - re-pin the OEM harness (outside the fuel tank / the wire harness that connects to the OEM fuel basket) for a heavier gauge positive/red/power wire...what size of wire would you suggest?
Step #2 - run the wire to the engine bay fuse box / fuel pump relay and connect positive/red/power wire to leg #87 of the fuel pump relay??
Step #3 - connect a positive/red/power wire (of same thickness/gauge) directly from the battery to leg 30 on the fuel pump relay? Rather than connecting from the battery can I connect from the fuel pump fuse?
Step #4 - do I need to mess with the fuel pump black wire (assuming that’s ground) at the OEM fuel pump basket is the OEM ground connection sufficient??
One map I am perplexed with is the traction control map...The link isnt as inclusive as the OEM in that (I believe) I can only activate traction control when the front wheel speed deviates off the rear wheel speed - as opposed to a OEM VDC right : left difference. Any guidance on this would be appreciated - Link gives you plenty of leash to setup the TC maps.
Yeah, just about every aftermarket standalone system I've seen uses front and rear wheel speed differential for traction control. My ProEFI uses wheel speed differential too (has an option for driveshaft speed too); I'll post up how I have it setup when I get a chance today.
Two questions though, what rear tires are you running? and how much power are you making?
Depending on your answers I'd highly recommend you sort out your boost by gear/speed (mph) before using traction control. It works incredibly well and is less intrusive than traction control. If a car has a decent tire on it (555R drag radial, etc.) I'll usually have full boost ramp up by the top of first gear/bottom of second gear. I typically want the car to be able to rev steadily through first gear completely with a bit of wheel spin.
help me out TCode & Mike - I’m not completely clear on how to wire the pump directly to the battery / relay - spoon feed me here bc I’m not conceptualizing it:
Step #1 - re-pin the OEM harness (outside the fuel tank / the wire harness that connects to the OEM fuel basket) for a heavier gauge positive/red/power wire...what size of wire would you suggest?
Step #2 - run the wire to the engine bay fuse box / fuel pump relay and connect positive/red/power wire to leg #87 of the fuel pump relay??
Step #3 - connect a positive/red/power wire (of same thickness/gauge) directly from the battery to leg 30 on the fuel pump relay? Rather than connecting from the battery can I connect from the fuel pump fuse?
Step #4 - do I need to mess with the fuel pump black wire (assuming that’s ground) at the OEM fuel pump basket is the OEM ground connection sufficient??
Step 1: Yes. I'd use 10 or 12 gauge wire.
Step 2: run the 10 or 12 gauge wire from the battery, with a 30 amp fuse inline, to pin 30 on the relay.
Step 3: Use the wire from step 1 and connect it to pin 87 on the relay.
Step 4: use the oem fuel pump trigger wire, I don't remember which wire it is off the top of my head, to pin 85 on the relay.
Step 5: Wire pin 86 on the relay to ground.
Thanks Mike & TCode- your description and instruction was spot on. TCode also assisted me and cleared some things up. It took a minute to comprehend the concept but I got it - cant thank you guys enough - if I was a ga-gillionaire I would send you both custom lamborghinis.
I'll upload some pictures - I got some 'auto-parts' store parts that'll work for now (mostly talking about the relay - autocraft 12v / 40amp...I'll see about getting a few bosche relays ordered and swapped in).
Everything worked out as prescribed and relay clicked when key was turned 'on' and car started up just fine. The car is up in the air and I'm thinking I can get the car tested tomorrow. First major test will be to give it a little throttle and see how the fuel pump does. After a few test pulls I'll give it full load to test fuel pressure at my 12psi boost.
pressure sensors -
Sensors / harnesses are built and the signal wire can be connected in 15seconds (stubbed out off the OEM ECU connector. But I need a switched 5volt power source for each of the sensors. The only thing I can gather that has 5 volts is the OEM oil pressure sensor.
Can I run these two sensors off the supplied 5volts off the OEM oil pressure sensor (in parallel) or will that dilute the OEM voltage signal and/or these two sensors? Is there a better 5volt source in the engine bay?
I think it does but I didnt know if this was the best method? Did you put all your sensors on one 5v source or did you use a single pin for each sensor?
09-22-2018, 06:08 AM
