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It's sorta funny how much space there is and how lonely the skeleton of the engine looks in the bay...from the furthest back part of the plenum neck to the true fire wall is ~9".
Spent the evening disassembling a donor harness to cannibalize longer pinned wires that I need for my new layout as I'm trying not to splice any wires between the sensors and the connection board and I cant find any OEM wire terminals to re-make the wires.
started the wiring construction...started with the passenger side and got a few connectors in. Also wired the new injector connectors pined and sleeved-up...I got a long weekend w/vets day so I hope to make some progress.
New +.001" bearings came in, as did the HR head gaskets, 4quarts of redline MT85. A new rod is $300 if I cant get the original honed back to spec.
Other items on the radar:
-get the heads machined(cheap insurance)
-tilton master cylinder
-dynosty girdle
a few nibbles on the turbo setup but nothing sold yet!
it's alright ... nothing special - Im using dual-wall / adhesive-lined heat shrink which really helps things stay in place.
I'm trying to do a knock-out job on documenting wire connectors, wire colors, pin-layouts, etc while everything is disassembled - it's been a slow process but it's fun / labor-of-love.
Every new beginning comes from some other beginnings end...
got the twins sold - actually really happy with everything and I took some stuff out of the sale and (I think) got a good number and I think the kit is going to a good home.
Sorta at a cross-roads in that I have clean sheet of paper ... I think I'm tied to the VQ as Im pretty well invested into the Link G4+ (which isnt a bad thing) and I have all the parts needed to get my block back up and going.
still throwing around the idea of a larger single in the AR range of 1.0 ...
On an administrative note ... I think keeping this thread going would be the best idea ... I sorta like it as an archive of sorts ...
got the passenger side bank harness done ... wanna re-do heat-shrink on a leg but other than that pretty happy with it
Bealljk, thanks for all the information and pictures you shared on your car, even the threads you bring up (Like the water meth topic) that challenge peoples opinions and real-world results. Every bit helps the Z/G community for those hungry for knowledge. I hope even my threads helps those in the future.
Good luck on whatever you decide for the Z! How does a big Single turbo sound? Perhaps Precision 6266, or 6766?
Bealljk, thanks for all the information and pictures you shared on your car, even the threads you bring up (Like the water meth topic) that challenge peoples opinions and real-world results. Every bit helps the Z/G community for those hungry for knowledge. I hope even my threads helps those in the future.
Good luck on whatever you decide for the Z! How does a big Single turbo sound? Perhaps Precision 6266, or 6766?
I aint going no where! I actually really appreciate the community we have - a good group of members we go going on...
it's a weird feeling of a chapter closing and another opening...I'm trying to take things slow on this crazy front mount idea ...
So when you're all done with your harness, want to come to AZ and do mine? LOL. You've made a ton of progress on your car, I'm a bit jealous.
thanks! one step at a time...dont be jealous use my setup as a spring board for yours!
Thoughts on a garrett GTX4294R T4, ar 1.01 or possibly a precision 6765 T3 ar .82
was going to pull the trigger on a tilton master cylider for the clutch line and the dynosty main girdle and the kind folks at Concept Z said wait until black friday - I guess they be blowing some stuff up for black friday...I got nothing but time!!
In the meantime I'll keep hunting turbos, intercooler, headers, waste gates, etc...
I'll be dropping my heads off at the machinist sometime this week and need to figure out if I can save the rod or if it needs replaced...
Thoughts on a garrett GTX4294R T4, ar 1.01 or possibly a precision 6765 T3 ar .82
The 6765 wouldn't be a bad way to go. But I'd opt for the bigger 1.06 T3 or possibly even a T4 housing. I think with the .82 you'll run into exhaust backpressure issues. The GTX4294 would probably make a ton of power. And Garrett turbos are super eliable. Do you kinda of have a power goal in mind?
The 6765 wouldn't be a bad way to go. But I'd opt for the bigger 1.06 T3 or possibly even a T4 housing. I think with the .82 you'll run into exhaust backpressure issues. The GTX4294 would probably make a ton of power. And Garrett turbos are super eliable. Do you kinda of have a power goal in mind?
I appreciate the insight - realistically, all things considered something in the 600 - 650 for a street tune pump gas and somewhere in the 700-750 for the dyno queen parade running a 104 / 110oct.
I'm wondering if the 4294 is too much blower and I'll suffer some compressor spool / lag time with that big of a blower - granted I believe it's their BB 2nd generation...
I appreciate the insight - realistically, all things considered something in the 600 - 650 for a street tune pump gas and somewhere in the 700-750 for the dyno queen parade running a 104 / 110oct.
I'm wondering if the 4294 is too much blower and I'll suffer some compressor spool / lag time with that big of a blower - granted I believe it's their BB 2nd generation...
If your goal is 750 on race gas than the 6765 will get you there all day long. My 6466 spools pretty quick. But the Garrett is tempting too. I honestly, don't know what I'd pick if I was fabbing something from scratch like you.
If your goal is 750 on race gas than the 6765 will get you there all day long. My 6466 spools pretty quick. But the Garrett is tempting too. I honestly, don't know what I'd pick if I was fabbing something from scratch like you.
I appreciate the insight - any other blowers you point me in the direction of?
wrapping up the wire-tuck harness - things are coming together. Wanted to get the drivers side bank done but I'm running into issues re-figuring the MAF line as I chopped it a few years back when I deleted the MAF sensor and my donor harness doesnt have matching wires ... I wanted to wire it in and stub-it-off but I may just wire in the temp sensor and call it good.
picking up another engine tomorrow and an AT ... and hopefully going to see Stabbing Westward (anybody remember them?)
also want to sort out my pistons - roughly measure the crank side to see how bad the damage is from cylinder 4 ... I decided to purchase Sasha's 6 identical pauters - hat-tip as he hooked me up with a deal ... either find the closest weighted rod and drop in or just use his 6 and put mine on the shelf...
finalized the organizing and wrapping of the harness and also doing my best to document the build (using autocad) to show connectors, pin layouts, wire colors, etc. Working on pinning the wire ends in prep for building a connectors-interface. I'll upload some more pics once I make more progress.
I'm not really a huge 'black-friday' type of spender ... if I need or want something I just go out and buy it but Concept Z was running 10% off aftermarket parts. I was already looking to pick up a tilton master cylinder and that dynosty girdle so I took them up on their sale. Should be here on Tuesday.
A little bit of an update on the pistons / pins / rods - I was able to weigh each component - my scale is +/-5g which isnt quite the precision I need but it's a good ballpark...the rotating assembly will have to go in to get balance regardless.
Further - As best I could with a digital caliper measured the inside diameter of each rod (in 4 directions). Cylinders #s 1/2/3/5/6 were all in the 2.1640" to 2.1655" while cylinder #4 what 2.1610" - 2.1625". It appears that rod #4 took some material from the bearing. My question - can this rod be honed back to 2.1645" +/-? would it be bad to hone the rods to 2.1655" +/- to give another .001" of clearance (in addition to the +.001" from the new bearings)?
A tad more progress on the wire harness. Finished up the engine side and need to fabricate my connectors and wrap up the ECU side. Also did the passenger side headlight/fans/airbags/ambient temp sensor line. Not really sure I want to hack the driver side.
Also got the tilton master cylinder installed but I think the threads got messed up (I'm not sure if I did it or I got a returned MC). Gonna re-tap them tomorrow. I intend to reuse the the OEM hardline/z1 steel-braided upgrade line I installed a few years back.
Hoping to get my rods honed this upcoming week. If I like the shop I'll have them grind/polish the new crank and then hang/balance the piston/rods and crank. From there I can get the block put back together. Next phase will be to get the heads machined and then re-installed. Due to some financial restraints it's gonna be a slow hike.
Still looking for a set of decent headers and see about this front mount.
Been sorting out the ECU connector side of things last few days. Was sick last week and didnt spend much time in the garage but made steps this past weekend.
I almost gave-up on a mounting plate idea and I'm not married to this exact style but fabb'd up a plate to zip-tie (which everyone should know I despise zipties) the DT connectors to. Resized a few wires and pinned them out. I hope to mount this near the ECU bracket.
Next step will be to trim-down the engine-side, pin, and connect...
Some Tilton master cylinder drama ... not sure if the OEM flare fitting is supposed to fit the tilton but I am having install issues. I want to retain the OEM line but the cylinder isnt taking it. I could not get it to thread. So either the threads are different or I messed it up.
I believe I'm going to re-tap it for an 11mm or 12mm diameter fitting with 1.0mm, 1.25mm, or 1.5mm thread pitch. Purchase a new fitting and re-flare the OEM hardline. But other than the threading issue is a pretty easy swap.
11-05-2018, 09:40 PM
