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Final Costs for turboed350z
$1360 Godpseed Full turbo kit + Utec
$180 550cc Injectors
$50 50mm ebay Wastegate(didnt use)
$50 38mm emusa wastegate
$26 Copper Gasket for wg
$14 Tial 5psi wg spring
$23 oil filter sanwich plate
$20 50mm wastegate piping(didnt use)
$30 RFL BOV(this was optional)
$25 Graphite gasket sheet
$6 furnace cement(not on there anymore)
~$50 misc gaskets(estimating high here)
$134 oil pan spcer
$1968 total. Could of had around $1800, but I bought things that didn't work or I didn't need.
Things added later.
Sold free exhaust I had on car for $500 and bought wider tires and an e-cutout for around $500($414 free mouting/balance because I have the machine)
That's awesome build! Yea I went with an ITS turbo kit with a Tnetics Raptor BOV and evolution w/g I bought from a guy on here and after getting upRev I ended up spending around $2700. I also bought stuff I didn't need like coilovers but eh, the price was on point, just hit the market and wasn't gonna pass it up because I know they price would jump big time lol
Small update. Since I had the turbo installed I have had an engine code for cats(O2 sensors).
Two weeks it started hesitating in boost in 3rd gear/higher after advancing the timing and threw a code for multiple misfires.
I still had oem heat range denso iridiums that were only a few thousand miles old. I went back to old timing and misfires were still there.
I purchased NGK iridiums one heat range colder and installed them. Misfired went away and now I can actually get a sticker(haven't had once since 2013) since the ecu readied even under boost.
I will have to play with timings again
So is the eBay turbo still going strong? Would you recommend this kit for a budget build?
Still going. I need v-band gaskets to seal the minor leaks it has due to cheap flanges, but I have other projects I want to do.
If I had to do it again I would have made a custom rear-mount set-up just so I didn't have to deal with the exhaust leaks/heat in engine bay(which isn't an issue, but it gets very hot) and used bolted flanges with gaskets. Or swapped the v-band flanges over to 2-bolt style.
I would only recommend if you are able to make a custom turbo set-up without a kit.
5th gear Not very smooth curve. Timing is set to 7.5-11.5 degrees at full boost.. AF/R are around 11.8-12, but I was running open dumps so they couldn't hook up the meter
Will update again soon.
Switched stock mid-pipe for an ebay aftermarket I had laying around for years(removed my electronic cut-out since I wasn't using it and it's annoying)
and will advance timing about 7-9 degrees at higher rpms since HP falls due to the timing being pulled too far. I have been told this is costing me about 30whp at higher rpm's. I want to keep it under 330ish since no-one has blown an engine at that WHP
Re-did all v-band gaskets(they actually didn't leak except the one that connects to the mid-pipe since I bottomed out on a street in Boston so that's good they were holding up.
Installed a heat blanket on the turbo(makes a HUGEEEE difference)
It's been a while, but I finally got a battery for my laptop and I was able to do some real tuning.(which is super easy with a "base" map and I don't know why more people don't tackle this themselves)
Before the car would run very rich at low rpm(10.0) in the 1-3psi area and I had a lean spot at 2250 at low throttle which wasn't a problem for the quarter mile track, but for regular driving I had to drive the car a specific way to avoid those areas and I got used to driving it that way, but it was not ideal. So i was able to get rid of the rich spot and the lean spot is dealt with but not perfect
I really need an empty highway so I can do 45-65 pulls and log the data then adjust, but for now I was doing it manually by looking at the AFR/MAP pressure/RPM without a log and it worked out pretty good. I can't image what I'll be able to do with full logging.
I found out I am only boosting around 4.5psi in first gear and topping 6.2psi i second. So I believe I have a 6psi spring and I never actually knew how much boost I was getting only that is was under 8psi(which is my ignition cut-out).
Adjusted timing from 11.5 to I believe 15.5 at full boost at higher rpm(still very conservative), but I noticed the increase in power immediately. 10whp per 1lb of boost is pretty low and that's probably due to my timing. I would think 15 is more like the average for these cars.
If I had to do it again I would have made a custom rear-mount set-up
I'm not sure how I feel about rear mount but it'd help with weight distribution as well!!
Originally Posted by iideadeyeii
Installed a heat blanket on the turbo(makes a HUGEEEE difference)
do you have a second to elaborate on the differences?
Originally Posted by iideadeyeii
It's been a while, but I finally got a battery for my laptop and I was able to do some real tuning.(which is super easy with a "base" map and I don't know why more people don't tackle this themselves)
+1 ... I find it enjoyable - assuming youre doing this off a wideband?
Originally Posted by iideadeyeii
I found out I am only boosting around 4.5psi in first gear and topping 6.2psi i second. So I believe I have a 6psi spring and I never actually knew how much boost I was getting only that is was under 8psi(which is my ignition cut-out).
Are you running a boost control solenoid? I only get 12psi out of my 14psi springs (without boost control) ... nature of the beast
A rear-mount would have been easier, but after I got all the kinks out(pretty much just exhaust leaks from bad flanges) I WOULD recommend the godspeed kit(they don't sell under than name anymore), but only if graphite gaskets are purchased/made, but i could have saved 1k from a rear-mount.
The turbo would heat the metal headlight surround to the point of not being able to touch the metal(of the headlight surround) for more than a second or so.
The cheap ebay $20-25 turbo blanket has reduced engine bay temps significantly(Not sure how much). I can go beat on the car for 5-10 minutes and put my hand right on the blanket for any amount of time. Additionally when I open the hood; it doesn't feel like I just opened my oven
Yes, off a wideband. I do have a few programs that work with the utec and the LC-1 to "auto-tune" (MPS, UTI), but I haven't really used them.
No boost control solenoid. Emusa(eBay brand) wastegate with what I believe is a 5lb tial wastegate spring
Last edited by iideadeyeii; 08-31-2017 at 06:52 AM.
Not much of an update, but I increased timing about 6 degrees a full boost across the rpm range (6psi). Clutch now slips on highway at full throttle starting around 3200rpm(my peak torque)
So, I need a upgraded clutch kit, maybe a lighter flywheel while I'm in there(not sure yet because I am not sure If I'll like the change) and a 009 transmission to fix my 3rd gear grind(or I can replace synchro, as I am comfortable breaking itdown but I am not sure if I need any specific tools to do this)
I am going to keep running it like this for now and avoid slipping the clutch as I have two other cars that need immediate repairs in addition to lots of home projects going on on both of my houses.
Damn this is still going. Sub'ing for fun.
3 questions. What are you up to on spending > How much have you squeezed out of the build so far > how long has the build lasted without failure? I wonder about Chinese casting on a sensitive part.
I haven't experienced clutch slip since that day and I honestly think I was applying mild pressure on the clutch pedal without realizing it(resting my foot on it)
I have been daily driving on and off this summer(when it's not raining) and dialing the fuel tables. It has always ran rich at low boost/low rpm and I just drove around like that for years and it didn't really bother me considering how little I was driving it
Now, I'm driving about 10 miles a day in it and adjusting the 10% section(which is roughly .5-1.5psi area) every few days.
Full boost/throttle is good at about 11.8 and the low rpm/low boost is still rich at around 10.8, but I'm changing the the injector pulse 1-2ms at a time; it's not an ideal way to tune, but it works.
Spending is just under 2k. Chinese parts work fine; I've built 2 other turbo kits from ebay parts and never had a problem. One on a 2001 kia sephia running MS and the other on a 93 wrangler only running a rrfpr(the wrangler took me 2 days for a full build. It felt pretty good)
Squeezed out like as HP wise? I was at 295whp 335tq pre-timing adjustment so I would assume I'm closer to 310whp at around 6psi at full boost. So 75whp for 2k is pretty much non-existent in the Z world
I've driven the car about 6k miles with the turbo. Most of it is harder driving vs highway miles with no boost. So, I think as far as "wear and tear" on that turbo I believe it would "feel" like is has had more miles.
Ok, car needs a clutch. Buying a $61 clutch off eBay. I just am unsure which stage to purchase. Looking at a stage 2
My power rating is roughly this
~310 Hp Wheel 340 Tq
~375 Hp Crank 410 Tq
Last edited by iideadeyeii; 04-11-2019 at 07:46 AM.
I think the JWT clutch Package would handle that nicely.......
Originally Posted by iideadeyeii
Ok, car needs a clutch. Buying a $61 clutch off eBay. I just am unsure which stage to purchase. Looking at a stage 2
My power rating is roughly this
~310 Hp Wheel 340 Tq
~375 Hp Crank 410 Tq
I only do eBay parts! You should know me! Especially for a car only worth ~6k MAX with the turbo(which I'd gladly sell for that price).
I am unsure if the car has a stock clutch, but I'm assuming it does.
I think I'm just going to order the stage 2 and just knock it out after work one of these nights. Should only be like a 3-4 hour job. Will update in a month or so!
Been very busy over the past 2 years working on my house, but
After 1 Year and 7 months I finally installed the $57 ebay clutch. Definitely not a stage 2 clutch. The disk itself is an organic replacement(per part code) and the pressure plate looks factory also, but it was painted white(code on pressure plate didn't come up in google)
Tried a pull in 3rd and 4th gear from around 60-80 and not getting a slip. Very very slight chatter, but the oem flywheel was not swapped or machined
Clutch itself only took about 4 hrs to install and 1 hour of that time was jacking the car up high enough on gravel and walking back and forth to my shed for various tools/extensions/swivels.
Also fixed 2 exhaust leaks while I was down there.
My u-joins on the shaft are going, so I will be replacing those soon.
I plan to do a little more tuning in low rpm(runs rich at 1-2psi as low rpms 10afr) under 3k
09-12-2016, 02:38 PM
