Oil filter relocation+oil cooler+turbo oil feed and return
 

Does anybody see any problem with this setup? I'm pretty sure all the parts use 10an lines. I will be using a scavenge pump from turbo outlet but didn't draw that in the pic.
Parts:
http://www.race-mart.com/Derale-DER-35706.html
http://www.jegs.com/i/Derale/259/357...oductId=961946
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ea...FTBo7AodmTIAwg

I want to use that Earl's thermostat because it has ports for oil temp and pressure gauges. Will they still get accurate readings here in this setup?

The only problem I see is that I can not find the remote mount plate (Derale 35729) In the correct thread pattern the z uses (20x1.5 I believe). Is this a problem or will it not matter since it's relocated anyway and I'll just have to use a different threaded oil filter?

Any help greatly appreciated.

Attachment 451992

mine is remote mounted using -10AN lines and a huge oil cooler.

you dont need nissan threaded, better filter options if its not.

Do you have a thermostat in your setup? Could you draw a pic on paper or something and upload it for me?
Just trying to figure out if the way I have the turbo oil feed and return will work, a guy on a diff forum questioned why I have 2 ins and 2 outs on the remote filter plate, I figured it should work fine especially since the turbo won't get very much oil going to it. Isn't that why that piece has 2 ins and outs or did they design it to block off one of the ins and outs so your lines could go either way you wanted?
Or should I ditch that and go with the regular turbo oil feed from the pressure sensor and drain back to the pan(or to the pcv per sts' instructions-never understood how that works)?

no thermostat, so i have to cover my oil cooler in the fall/ winter bc engine never comes to operating temp.

the turbo can get its feed from that setup, but must drain back to the pan. everything in that pic above is pressurized, and not suitable for a drain return.

here's a link
http://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j...,d.Yms&cad=rja

Why not just get a Greddy or HKS relocation kit? The sandwich will have 4 AN fittings and contain a thermostat for two of them.

Seems like a lot of complexity in that system and places for leaks. I use a mocal sandwich plate with thermostat built in and only 8 an lines to my cooler. 10an would be ideal but 8an seems to work good for me.

As str8dum1 says, it doesn't matter if it uses a different filter. If it uses a larger type filter then that would actually be better.

I got all 3 of these parts for the same price as the Greddy, and I get 10 an lines not 4 an. Plus with the Greddy there's no ports for gauges, that's why I went with earls instead of a cheaper one.
I read somewhere, can't remember where now, that the inline tstats work better than the built in ones on sandwich plates.
I do not believe they make a sandwich plate that has tstat, 10an lines, AND gauge ports.
Atleast not a quality piece, maybe el cheapo eBay parts which I don't want to do.

Can anyone explain the oil return using the pcv? I can upload the sts instructions if needed. I don't think this is the ideal way, so I may just order a pan spacer for the return if I can't use this setup, but I'd still like to understand the concept.
The oil return in the pan has to be above the oil level right? So with all the extra oil I will have with the add'l parts, will the port in the say jwt hr spacer still be above the oil level?

people sometimes return oil into their valve covers, just like you do when you refil your oil after a change. STS uses a return pump, not gravity.

Ideally the return needs to be above the oil level. The ports on the spacer are always under that level so its not ideal, buts just how most people do it since they dont wanna tap their block.

If you are using a return pump, it doesnt matter if the ports are below the oil level because you are pushing it back in.

I'm just using an oil pan spacer(with ports) for my oil return. It's simple and cheap

Mocal has t-stat plates with 10an ports on it. It doesn't have the 1/8" npt ports for the sensors but you could tap it yourself if you want.

Personally I think sensors in the spacer is a horrible place for them. Oil pressure should be off the sending unit for most accurate readings and the oil temp should be in the pan for the most accurate TOTAL oil temp. If it's in the sandwich plate you are going to have one of two things happen: it will be oil pre-oil cooler so the temp will be higher than the actual oil in the pan that the engine is using or it will be on the return oil which will be slightly cooler since it just came back from the cooler. Same with the oil pressure. It will be after the filter which can show a false low reading.