Single turbo question
#23
Registered User
If you want a serious answer, you need to ask a serious question.
However, i have to disagree with mic on the subject of "turbo/super charging a stock block" it has more of how far you push the engine than anything.
I rather run mold boost, and make around 340whp on a stock block, than to build it NA and hit 400whp. Theres too much factor to determine if a stock block should or shouldnt be boosted.
My personal opinion is, go nuts, just have the funds require to replace the engine when it blows.
However, mic does have a point when he said too much planning goes into a build. And 9/10 times, all oem parts are replace with newer, better parts thats you lose pretty much all of the stock feeling. And the 350z is pretty nice stocked.
However, i have to disagree with mic on the subject of "turbo/super charging a stock block" it has more of how far you push the engine than anything.
I rather run mold boost, and make around 340whp on a stock block, than to build it NA and hit 400whp. Theres too much factor to determine if a stock block should or shouldnt be boosted.
My personal opinion is, go nuts, just have the funds require to replace the engine when it blows.
However, mic does have a point when he said too much planning goes into a build. And 9/10 times, all oem parts are replace with newer, better parts thats you lose pretty much all of the stock feeling. And the 350z is pretty nice stocked.
#24
6 inch cawk is my fave!
iTrader: (3)
As cool as owning a fast car might be having a reliable one that gets you were you need to go is even cooler, and if your only car is the Z you might want to factor getting another daily driver into the price.
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WYZIWYG (04-21-2016)
#25
Registered User
Your car will be happy to take all your money with or without a turbo. If you know next to nothing about cars why would you want to open up the big can of snails?
As cool as owning a fast car might be having a reliable one that gets you were you need to go is even cooler, and if your only car is the Z you might want to factor getting another daily driver into the price.
As cool as owning a fast car might be having a reliable one that gets you were you need to go is even cooler, and if your only car is the Z you might want to factor getting another daily driver into the price.
Also its fun saying, i have xxxhp. Doesnt matter if the car starts or not, still fun to say it. Haha
#28
6 inch cawk is my fave!
iTrader: (3)
Another good one the other day. Someone had put on wheels with a smaller hub than their cars hub... Somehow threaded the lug nuts on like barely and sent wifey to work like that, pulling into the parking lot the front wheel fell off... I walked around the car and looked at all the wheels like wtf. I thought they tried to space the wheels with washers or something until I put 2 and 2 together.
#29
350Z/370Z Tech Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
If you want a serious answer, you need to ask a serious question.
However, i have to disagree with mic on the subject of "turbo/super charging a stock block" it has more of how far you push the engine than anything.
I rather run mold boost, and make around 340whp on a stock block, than to build it NA and hit 400whp. Theres too much factor to determine if a stock block should or shouldnt be boosted.
My personal opinion is, go nuts, just have the funds require to replace the engine when it blows.
However, mic does have a point when he said too much planning goes into a build. And 9/10 times, all oem parts are replace with newer, better parts thats you lose pretty much all of the stock feeling. And the 350z is pretty nice stocked.
However, i have to disagree with mic on the subject of "turbo/super charging a stock block" it has more of how far you push the engine than anything.
I rather run mold boost, and make around 340whp on a stock block, than to build it NA and hit 400whp. Theres too much factor to determine if a stock block should or shouldnt be boosted.
My personal opinion is, go nuts, just have the funds require to replace the engine when it blows.
However, mic does have a point when he said too much planning goes into a build. And 9/10 times, all oem parts are replace with newer, better parts thats you lose pretty much all of the stock feeling. And the 350z is pretty nice stocked.
But while we disagree philosophically, I think we're saying to OP the same thing.
Read what I writ:
"Engine, software, ancillaries.... all need to be re-worked TO DO IT RIGHT.
And therein lay the reason I don't really believe in aftermarket turbocharging a stock block. NOT saying it can't be done, not at all, there's lots of successful blown applications here. But to do it right takes a lot of planning, skills, and money to do it absolutely correct. Oh, and patience..... Heh heh."
The take-home wording here is "TO DO IT RIGHT".
What I didn't say was that there are many things that need to be taken into consideration whilst doing a turbo build. The biggest one: the CONDITION of the stock engine to start.
Low mileage or otherwise fastidiously maintained stock engine will take low boost just fine. But what happens if the motor has leakdown beyond tolerance, worn valve seals, rings, wonky oil pressure to handle the increased lubrication requirements? And more importantly, improper tune, undersized injectors, inadequate fuel pressure to accompany even modest boost pressure leading to severe lean out, those types of things.
Can you say D-E-T-O-N-A-T-I-O-N (or otherwise known as "piston toast") and not mention what this does to valvetrain components, gaskets that turn to mush?
Once all the prep/planning work (full analysis of the engine condition and planning for upgrading that which needs to be upgraded) is done, the OP or anyone attempting this will likely find that a nice motor refresh with "better"/more suitable parts BEFORE BOOSTING is the way to do it so as to avoid future labor (or labor charges) for a complete teardown to FIX something that broke.
Preventative/preemptive action up front is by far the more sane way of going about this. Again, just a warning to the OP on what to expect; echoing your comment about leaving $$ in reserve for a fix/rebuild.
All I'm saying here is there's a HUGE amount of planning required to do it right the first time to avoid one sitting on the side of the road displaying swagger...
...while waiting for Mike and his tow rig to give one a lift to the nearest garage.
I did NOT say "DON'T DO IT." I did say "DO IT RIGHT OR DON'T DO IT AT ALL."
Cheers,
BTDTMic
#31
Registered User
Ahhh, we shall agree to disagree, T'bo. Laff...
But while we disagree philosophically, I think we're saying to OP the same thing.
Read what I writ:
"Engine, software, ancillaries.... all need to be re-worked TO DO IT RIGHT.
And therein lay the reason I don't really believe in aftermarket turbocharging a stock block. NOT saying it can't be done, not at all, there's lots of successful blown applications here. But to do it right takes a lot of planning, skills, and money to do it absolutely correct. Oh, and patience..... Heh heh."
The take-home wording here is "TO DO IT RIGHT".
What I didn't say was that there are many things that need to be taken into consideration whilst doing a turbo build. The biggest one: the CONDITION of the stock engine to start.
Low mileage or otherwise fastidiously maintained stock engine will take low boost just fine. But what happens if the motor has leakdown beyond tolerance, worn valve seals, rings, wonky oil pressure to handle the increased lubrication requirements? And more importantly, improper tune, undersized injectors, inadequate fuel pressure to accompany even modest boost pressure leading to severe lean out, those types of things.
Can you say D-E-T-O-N-A-T-I-O-N (or otherwise known as "piston toast") and not mention what this does to valvetrain components, gaskets that turn to mush?
Once all the prep/planning work (full analysis of the engine condition and planning for upgrading that which needs to be upgraded) is done, the OP or anyone attempting this will likely find that a nice motor refresh with "better"/more suitable parts BEFORE BOOSTING is the way to do it so as to avoid future labor (or labor charges) for a complete teardown to FIX something that broke.
Preventative/preemptive action up front is by far the more sane way of going about this. Again, just a warning to the OP on what to expect; echoing your comment about leaving $$ in reserve for a fix/rebuild.
All I'm saying here is there's a HUGE amount of planning required to do it right the first time to avoid one sitting on the side of the road displaying swagger...
...while waiting for Mike and his tow rig to give one a lift to the nearest garage.
I did NOT say "DON'T DO IT." I did say "DO IT RIGHT OR DON'T DO IT AT ALL."
Cheers,
BTDTMic
But while we disagree philosophically, I think we're saying to OP the same thing.
Read what I writ:
"Engine, software, ancillaries.... all need to be re-worked TO DO IT RIGHT.
And therein lay the reason I don't really believe in aftermarket turbocharging a stock block. NOT saying it can't be done, not at all, there's lots of successful blown applications here. But to do it right takes a lot of planning, skills, and money to do it absolutely correct. Oh, and patience..... Heh heh."
The take-home wording here is "TO DO IT RIGHT".
What I didn't say was that there are many things that need to be taken into consideration whilst doing a turbo build. The biggest one: the CONDITION of the stock engine to start.
Low mileage or otherwise fastidiously maintained stock engine will take low boost just fine. But what happens if the motor has leakdown beyond tolerance, worn valve seals, rings, wonky oil pressure to handle the increased lubrication requirements? And more importantly, improper tune, undersized injectors, inadequate fuel pressure to accompany even modest boost pressure leading to severe lean out, those types of things.
Can you say D-E-T-O-N-A-T-I-O-N (or otherwise known as "piston toast") and not mention what this does to valvetrain components, gaskets that turn to mush?
Once all the prep/planning work (full analysis of the engine condition and planning for upgrading that which needs to be upgraded) is done, the OP or anyone attempting this will likely find that a nice motor refresh with "better"/more suitable parts BEFORE BOOSTING is the way to do it so as to avoid future labor (or labor charges) for a complete teardown to FIX something that broke.
Preventative/preemptive action up front is by far the more sane way of going about this. Again, just a warning to the OP on what to expect; echoing your comment about leaving $$ in reserve for a fix/rebuild.
All I'm saying here is there's a HUGE amount of planning required to do it right the first time to avoid one sitting on the side of the road displaying swagger...
...while waiting for Mike and his tow rig to give one a lift to the nearest garage.
I did NOT say "DON'T DO IT." I did say "DO IT RIGHT OR DON'T DO IT AT ALL."
Cheers,
BTDTMic
Thats the only way to do things. Do it right. Many skips everything else and just go straight to the snail and wonder why the need a new block 2 dyno run later.
Personally, and this is just me. I always know what power goal i want first. The i save up the budget required by 2.5. So lets say a build will cost 10k, i wont even change the air intake until i have 25k. Then i dive in head first. (Obviously after my research) and just knock it all out at once.
I hate slow builds. It sucks seeing your car on jack stand for years at a time while youre saving for the next part lol.
I did a slow build once... never again. Bought all the basic bolt ons, with intentions to boosts. Only later to find out, the exhaust i have isnt ideal with boost. The headers wont work. Gonna need a whole new set of injectors. The fuel pump is weak. And basically have to buy everything all over again.
#32
New Member
iTrader: (2)
OP, take this from me because I'm around your age (21). The thought of going F/I has struck me as hard as anyone else on this forum but I never pursued it. Why? Simply because with my driving skills at the moment, I doubt I can even use more than 50% of the car's power. You see, it's not all about the horsepower to the wheels, there's a lot more to it than that. The way I see it, it's probably a lot more fun to drive a stock Z hard than it is to sit in a 600 whp Z and have no clue as to what to do with it.
So save your money (and potentially your life) by learning how to drive the car first. Just my $0.02
So save your money (and potentially your life) by learning how to drive the car first. Just my $0.02
#33
Registered User
OP, take this from me because I'm around your age (21). The thought of going F/I has struck me as hard as anyone else on this forum but I never pursued it. Why? Simply because with my driving skills at the moment, I doubt I can even use more than 50% of the car's power. You see, it's not all about the horsepower to the wheels, there's a lot more to it than that. The way I see it, it's probably a lot more fun to drive a stock Z hard than it is to sit in a 600 whp Z and have no clue as to what to do with it.
So save your money (and potentially your life) by learning how to drive the car first. Just my $0.02
So save your money (and potentially your life) by learning how to drive the car first. Just my $0.02
To me, 400whp is the perfect balance for a street car. Many are so focus on power that wheb they get it, they wrap it around a tree.
Stock 350 are more than fast enough for alot of drivers. I dont see how many would want power they cant control.
#34
Senior Super Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (13)
OP, take this from me because I'm around your age (21). The thought of going F/I has struck me as hard as anyone else on this forum but I never pursued it. Why? Simply because with my driving skills at the moment, I doubt I can even use more than 50% of the car's power. You see, it's not all about the horsepower to the wheels, there's a lot more to it than that. The way I see it, it's probably a lot more fun to drive a stock Z hard than it is to sit in a 600 whp Z and have no clue as to what to do with it.
So save your money (and potentially your life) by learning how to drive the car first. Just my $0.02
So save your money (and potentially your life) by learning how to drive the car first. Just my $0.02
I have said this many times, partly because I've been there and done that. I love the NA Z, but I also like the feel of lots of HP. However, I have learned to drive the Z really well and have outdriven cars that have way more HP than me. Why? Training and more training. That's all.
#36
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
Replace the internals with stronger ones.
Seriously dude, I need to sell my car. If you want a setup that can hawl *** (provided you do a few "simple" jobs to finish her up), let me know.
But if you want to turbo your Z, you better be ready to do a lot of reading on here. OR pay a shop far away from you, a lot of money. Or my car... It's a supercharger now, but 600hp is plenty.
Seriously dude, I need to sell my car. If you want a setup that can hawl *** (provided you do a few "simple" jobs to finish her up), let me know.
But if you want to turbo your Z, you better be ready to do a lot of reading on here. OR pay a shop far away from you, a lot of money. Or my car... It's a supercharger now, but 600hp is plenty.
#37
Registered User
iTrader: (2)
We have a winner!
I have said this many times, partly because I've been there and done that. I love the NA Z, but I also like the feel of lots of HP. However, I have learned to drive the Z really well and have outdriven cars that have way more HP than me. Why? Training and more training. That's all.
I have said this many times, partly because I've been there and done that. I love the NA Z, but I also like the feel of lots of HP. However, I have learned to drive the Z really well and have outdriven cars that have way more HP than me. Why? Training and more training. That's all.
Tires and suspension go a looooooooooooooooooooooong way.
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SmoothZ (04-23-2016)
#39
Senior Super Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (13)