tcode

iTrader: (7)

Yea, but difference between banks on Conway's car are much more than 1 to 3 %.

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

Well this probably didn't help my AFR's between the banks.












Also I'm working on getting my AFR's to 14.7, I managed to get it from 10.2'ish to 12's by changing my base fuel to 50% or so where its currently idling at in the map.



I have a lot more reading to do but I think I can get this damn to idle correctly....I hope so atleast

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

^I would reduce your load columns...I think I run maybe 3 columns for vacuum, a 0.0 and maybe 4 columns for boost(one which is 30psi, which if I hit 30psi I have bigger problems)...additionally I run 500 RPM increments with the exception of 1250rpm to assist with my idle...

let the haltech interpolate between values...

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

I dont plan on running more than 15 psi so ill set my last colum to 20psi.

So start at 500 rpm and go to 8k in 500 increments, gotcha.

Ill change all off that tomorrow after work and report back.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

yeah, like I said - I dropped one in at 1250 to help with idle...

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

Is there anyway to increase my idle to 1000'ish. It runs fine if it stays close to 1k but once it starts to idle down to 700 it starts to hunt then die.

Also as soon as i get it all squared away to a 14.7 idle and shut it off my afrs are no longer setting at 14.7 they are anywhere between 11-13.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

only can change idle if you run full standalone haltech. Else you have to have oem ecu flashed.

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

Son of a *****!

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

You can 'play' with your fuel your idle range to achieve a 1000rpm idle ... but no direct way of doing it...

did you put a hole in your throttle body butterfly valve plate? seeing that theres no idle control air solenoid it may be something to look in to.

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

Ive heard of people doing this with the 78MM throttle bodies but not stock ones.

So I went to take it out last night to mess with some load AFRs and as soon as I gave it gas to drive down the road one bank stayed at 10-11 and the other worked its way up to 18-19 so I had to idle it around the block back to the house.

Went this morning to see WTF is going on and I have no clue, then wind caught my hood and ripped it up ruining another set of hood hinges and messing up my front fenders even more....IM SO SICK AND TIRED OF THIS CAR!!!!

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

^hmmmm...
doubled check your tables to make sure your 18:1 bank is setup right ... are you data logging these runs?

hang in there...I'm on that same brainwave...I can't believe I screwed up my waste gates hose lines...

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

just stop for a damn minute and answer these questions:

Are you using the haltech to do Wideband O2 corrections?
Are you running a wideband to each bank of the exhaust and running the signals back to the Haltech?

Did you touch your Injector or Coil Pack wiring? Remove clips ect? Did you verify that all clips are back where they should be?

Your car has the classic symptom of having the o2 sensor feedback swapped from bank to bank. One goes lean, the other rich because the ECU is reading the wrong information for a given bank.

Feel free to email me your map and Ill give it a once over.

Datlogging is easy! you can use your PC to record all the dash displays into an excel file for review. You can review inside of the ECU manager or in the Data Log Viewer.
You can also setup onboard datalogging but its not as useful.

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

Anwsers in red cux. Bealljk ive looked over the maps to see if anything crazy stands out but i didn't notice anything.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

"im not using the computer to look at the afrs yet just the guage, but i do know i have the wires crossed going to the ecu, im going to fix that tonight. "

theres your problem right there. Haltech is doing bank to bank corrections.


I use ECU manager and just click record with my mouse. no short keys.

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

May be hard to understand sorry in advance!

So in order to get a wideband signal to the Redbox i had to cut the stock wideband imput to the haltech since it cant use the stock wideband signal.

So the DLG comes with two wide band controllers each one having its own 5v output signal, so i wired them to the cut haltech harness.

So after watching my laptop screen this morning i noticed i wired them backwards and the 5v line for the bank that is leaning out i think got disconnected from my ECU since it stays at 8.0-8.3 (0.0-0.2 volts)

Im going to rip the dash apart again :-( to see if i can get them all squared away and see if it helps anything.

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

I dont have any record options, anywhere that ive seen.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

connect to ECU to get the record options.

Easy check is to disconnect one sensor. It should stay at 10.00 or so. The other will heat up to 19.99. Make sure you have the banks right.

Turn off your wideband corrections in your setup until you get this fixed.

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

Well the problem has been resolved! I had the wideband Ground wired to the ECU imput and the Widband out put wired to the chasis ground.....

Thanks for all the help fellas!

OldManZ350

iTrader: (23)

Cool, that's why I had you reverse them.

When you reverse them, and get the same result except opposite, then it is clear something is wrong with the o2's.

It was not exact because the right Bank away runs richer with the stock intake.

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

Thanks guys!

So now that I have everything running and figured out how to actually data log, I need to figure out the whole tunning part.

Stupid AFR's are in Lamda and boost is in Kpa :-(

I NEED AN ADULT....