bealljk

iTrader: (13)

Ive got the last piggyback before the standalones ... so I know mine isnt rich with features.

The idle may be something with your intake air temp compensation tables

I don't know that the ecu will autolog ... I think you have one or two generations past mine and it seems that I have a limited amount of data storage for logging. I've adjusted sensor sampling rates and turned sensors off but I think I can only log 2hrs worth of data before I run out of storage (which is ok with me - I don't log that much anyways).

thatv35guy

iTrader: (1)

Kind of wondering what you’re all targeting for your AFR?

11.8-12 still seems a little aggressive for a VQ on 20 psi, I shoot for something closer to 11-11.5 at that boost level, running it leaner leaves very little margin for error, plus engine runs a little cooler, etc. Obviously you were having a much more serious issue than just a slightly lean/aggressive AFR mixture but it's something I'd consider in the future.

TT03Z

I'm pretty confident my ECU has 40 minutes worth of log capability. Ill never need that much at most id need 5-10 minutes after sitting in the staging lanes. I wasnt sure If the Haltech had the auto log feature or not im guessing it probably does not. Another feature I'd like to figure out or see if the Haltech has is working on maps off line. I hate the fact that I have to be plugged into the car to make adjustments. I will be switching to E85 and bigger injectors pretty soon and I'd really like to be able to go through the fuel and timing maps in the comfort of my home.

thatv35guy

iTrader: (1)

I know Haltech platinum's have coolant and air temp correction tables, there's also correction for ignition timing for coolant & air too. You should be able to tell real quick if those tables are populated.

I think there's a way to track the % of correction in the log too so you'll be able to see exactly what compensation your ECU's making. Think the channel is Fuel - Cool Temp Corr and Ignition - Cool Temp Corr, should give you a % value.

Edit: Maybe we should have a new FI VQ tuning thread?

TT03Z

Would be down for that tuning thread. I'm sure all of us have some knowledge in different areas and putting that knowledge in one place would definitely not be a bad idea.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

Sorry Silva for hijacking your thread ...

just a good place to chat about these issues for sure!

silva350z

iTrader: (1)

no worrys lol thats what these forums should be about , helping eachother out

silva350z

iTrader: (1)

i think target afr hal wanted to keep it around 11.8-12.0 range on ignite

silva350z

iTrader: (1)

My haltech will datalog what ever i set for it to log without a laptop . it will automatically start logging after either 70% or 80% throttle i cant recall exactly

silva350z

iTrader: (1)

So heres the thing i was only seeing up to 18lbs in 4th , my fuel comp was only at 60 so the flex fuel lowered the boost for me and its suppose to adjust fuel and timing as well ....so its possible the afr's were different than what saw before on the dyno because of the flex fuel corrections being made but it doesnt make sence why it would make it leaner with a lower fuel comp if anything it should have richened it ....i was never tuned for 18lbs ....i was tuned on 14lbs on pump and 21lbs on ignite e65-e70

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

This sounds vaguely familiar in the data log settings ... you got a minute to instruct on setting this up?

Edit:

Main Setup > Data Logging Side Tab > Channel Activation check box (and set up parameter)

Gonna try it today - thanks Silva!

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

You can set the data log to occur when a specific trigger is hit (like when in boost). Or with an external input. I have a button I can push that sends a signal to data log. Once the log fills up though, it stops until you clear it. You obviously need a laptop to export the onboard data log and to clear the log so it is available again for another session.

silva350z

iTrader: (1)

Hey guys so update.. i got the motor back from dynosty last thursday then went away for the weekend and when i came back i got right to it. Took advantage of the holiday and got it back in the car along with the turbo setup and exhaust on monday ! Car is mostly put together just have to button up the front end and then its ready to roll again ! Should be driving it again by the weekend. I put another spring in the wastegate so gate psi can be at least 15lbs now. Also adding fuel pressure and oil pressure sensors this time! I got the fancy haltech can gauge so I can be warned of anything when im driving instead of having to look at my laptop later. I'll be taking the trip to Hal in 3 weeks to get the car retuned on more boost. This should give me some time to break the motor in and make sure there arnt any issues before I make the long trip.

thatv35guy

iTrader: (1)

Glad to see the car back together! Good idea getting a fuel pressure sensor in this go around.

silva350z

iTrader: (1)

Well I got the car started yesturday ! I bled the coolant and went through a couple of heat cycles and changed the oil. I took it for a ride around the block and everything seemed good but then all of a sudden when I got back and had the car idling it sounded like I had a misfire as if there was a bad coil but the haltech wasn't throwing any codes. I was going to pull the coils out one by one to see if I could find a bad coil but then the misfire stopped and car was fine. I was going to try to take it for another ride around the block to see if it would happen again but then my clutch started grabbing high all the way at the top so I just called it a night. I think the fluid is getting too hot. Later if I start the car and its grabbing at the bottom I'll know heat is the problem. I have the line double wrapped and I'm using motul 660. I'm not sure what else I can do to keep the line cool. The 4in downpipe right next to it isn't helping. Anyway, is there anything I could check with the haltech to compare the coils to each other or anything? It suxs that I won't be able to physically check them until the car misfires again.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

You could look into your data log and see how the knock signal looks? also see where in the rev-range and ignition table the misfire occurred compared to other similar conditions.

You could also look at your battery voltage...

I ran into / running into / hopefully ran through these chicken shet mis-fire / non-fire and thinking long and hard (last time I was at the drags) I believe my 60amp mini-alternator isn't cutting it. Running the 60amp alternator I would see 13-14 volts consistently and with my OEM I'm closer to 14-15 volts...

doesn't seem like a lot but if you're drawing a healthy amount of current during hard pulls and the juice isn't there than somethings gotta give.

I'll keep my thread updated on the alternator diagnosis

thatv35guy

iTrader: (1)

Unfortunately, I don't know of any way to test an ignition coil pack on our cars and it is very possible to have a bad coil pack that won't trigger a cylinder specific or random misfire OBD code. Won't help at idle, but I'll look at RPM during a WOT pull and check for any consistent spikes in RPM, that's usually a good indicator of an ignition related misfire.

After you put the car back together did you check for vacuum leaks/smoke test?

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

The FSM has a protocol to test resistance - I don't know how reliable it is when the rubber meets the road.

I got a zillion coil pack and will send a few down if you think you toasted one...lmk

silva350z

iTrader: (1)

I found it ! Went to start the car yesterday and luckily it started to misfire again so i started pulling the coils and number 4 coil was the culprit. I had a spare coil and threw it in and that did the trick no more misfire ! I'm wondering if that coil was originally in cylinder 2 when motor blew. Makes me wonder if this was the cause.
Thanks for the input tho guys! Its nice having ppl that care and try to help!

I think I got the clutch pedal figured out too ...stupid me just left the nut loose on the pedal lol. I tightened it and drove the car around and it didnt move on me anymore. Grabing at the bottom as it should .

Im going to break the motor in on the dyno later today and do some heavy monitoring of fuel pressure to make sure car isnt going lean .

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

^badasss ... happy to hear it was something simple -