When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
Took the sparkplugs out and used my camera scope to see if I could see anything in the cylinders. Unfortunately I could not see the cylinder walls very good but did notice a small aluminum shard sitting on top of one the pistons. I took the intercooler off and noticed some larger shards of aluminum piled up in one corner. At this time I was hoping nothing substantial made it past the intercooler...............once I took my throttle bodies and inlet tubes off I noticed what I would consider a lot of metal dust stuck to the silicone couplers shown in the pics below.
I drained the oil and did notice a somewhat glitter look to it or at least noticed tiny metal dots in the oil. I attempted to remove the oil pan but it did not want to budge and I certainly did not have the patience to mess with it today.
At this point I think the only thing I can do is literally remove the whole turbo kit and disassemble the BOV and Wastegates clean everything up, take the intercooler to a shop and have it ultrasonic cleaned in a tank and go from there.
I think I am at a point now though that I may end up just selling everything at a loss and buying a sweet minivan. I have had a rash of bad luck and unfortunate things happen that make me think it is just not meant to be
What do you all think?
*Boosted Performance turbo (turn key kit) (fits VQ35HR)
*Haltech Platinum Pro with VQ35HR harness, Haltech IO Expander 12, Haltech Boost Selenoid, AEM 5.2bar MAP sensor and Haltech Wideband controller with 2 Bosch Widebands.
*Southbend Stage 3 Daily (quiet disk option) with Southbend DXD flywheel
*ZSPEED HD slave cylinder SS lines
*Wilwood HD Clutch master cylinder with SS lines
*Osiris Tuner
*Osiris Standard (this was before I purchased the turbo kit)
*AEM UEGO AF gauge
*AEM Boost gauge
*Greddy Profec B boost controller
*3.5 VLSD diff 50k miles
*Z1 3in single exit exhaust
I'm sure I am missing some other items.
I will get the turbo tomorrow evening to check it out and see what was replaced.
Very sorry to hear (and see) about this. My advice is to start the disassembly to determine how far the damage goes. It may be worth sending off the used oil for a UOA and get an informed opinion. Outside of that, take some time to sleep on this project. Perspective is hard to get when the hurt is so fresh...
Very sorry to hear (and see) about this. My advice is to start the disassembly to determine how far the damage goes. It may be worth sending off the used oil for a UOA and get an informed opinion. Outside of that, take some time to sleep on this project. Perspective is hard to get when the hurt is so fresh...
I wouldnt throw in the towel quite yet...definately spend the $40 on a Blackstone Labs oil test and do a compression test. If you only drove it for a mile that's not much time for **** to hit the fan...
The more you suffer, the more it shows you really care.
Nothing is more satisfying than having something like this happen only to power through and get the car running to it's potential.
Does it suck, of course it does ... but anything worth having is worth fighting for...
KBB your car and that's what you'll get if you sell the car and part everything out...it wont be worth it.
This is quite unacceptable. Was it these new style turbos that caused this?
If so perhaps the 350z community should be sticking to tried and tested? - We dont want anyone else to go through this and it is a shame you're looking to sell up now.
This is quite unacceptable. Was it these new style turbos that caused this?
If so perhaps the 350z community should be sticking to tried and tested? - We dont want anyone else to go through this and it is a shame you're looking to sell up now.
This was the response after Comp checked the Turbo out....it appears I messed up clocking the turbo. Here's a previous post.
Originally Posted by knuckles899
I spoke to Comp Turbo this morning. Comp stated that this was possibly a install error while clocking...... They said when I clocked the turbo the gasket most likely got pinched or became misaligned when it was rotated to line up with my piping. Even though everything appeared okay prior to starting the vehicle and even idling okay....meaning nothing seemed misaligned at the time, once the turbo got some heat and boost through it the housing began to contact the impeller blade. This would explain why I was able to get into the boost slightly a couple times and somewhere not to long after this I started to notice the noise. I asked Comp if this rubber gasket is oiled slightly during assembly to avoid the gasket getting pulled slightly when rotating and they said it does.........my thinking was that a dry rubber gasket would want to pull a little bit when rotating the turbo housing for clocking. Comp said that they would cover this under warranty and I should receive the turbo back probably by Friday.......I am not sure what is being replaced on the turbo itself as of now so I'll see on Friday when is arrives.
To sum everything up with Comp Turbo and Sasha at Boosted Performance
Great customer service
Takes initiative on providing feedback and solutions to customer issues
Fast shipping and response
Good Product
As far as how to avoid this from happening to anyone else in the future................I am not sure as I thought I was being as careful as possible and not forceful with anything with this turbo.
To sum it all up, it doesn't appear to be a defect with the turbo. Sasha at Boosted Performance said that as a result of this incident Comp said they will be greasing the o-ring on the turbo's in order for the turbo to move more freely when clocking.
Last edited by knuckles899; 08-22-2017 at 05:58 AM.
I think it is very possible that changing the oil, oil filter, swap out the IC (don't think you'll ever get it clean enough) and cleaning out the piping and manifold will be sufficient. I wouldn't give up. Let it run for a few mins, change the oil one more time and I think you might be fine.
I would update your first post(if you haven't already) with details for other people who do not read the whole thread because it will make the company look badly for your mistake.
I updated the 1st post to show that post #36 will have further explanation on how this was a install error and not a manufacturing defect.
I think I am going to take a little break from the car and focus on work, I knew I was on borrowed time with the stock block but I may end up just putting a whole new one in. I have been speaking with RJM about building a complete turn key closed deck engine and then just sending my car to a well known shop for install and tune along with some other goodies. I just need to talk myself off the ledge about selling the car and buying a used GTR as this would be a whole other set of problems and issues that I wouldn't want with a 70k used vehicle.
Prior to the engine being fed metal I had
Compression Cylinders #1. 185 #2. 175 #3. 175 #4. 175 #5. 180 #6. 175
Leak Down % 15% 18% 22% 25% 18% 15%
The leak down I think already wrote this motors fate of being replaced................now with the metal dust.....kind of seals the deal. The last thing I want to happen though is to dump an additional 10k + on top of what I have already put in just to have something go wrong with my new engine if I end up getting one................I keep hearing stories of boosted Z's getting the **** run out of them with no issues at all.......I would like to be one of these people lol.
I think I am going to take a little break from the car and focus on work
not a bad plan...
Originally Posted by knuckles899
I keep hearing stories of boosted Z's getting the **** run out of them with no issues at all.......I would like to be one of these people lol.
but what you don't hear is what each one of these people (including me) went through before reaching said point. Anything worth having is worth working for
selling everything and picking up a GTR is a solution but you'll have zero satisfaction and you'll be back at the drawing board...
I'd do what RCdash said as it's the easiest / cheapest / and will let you know exactly where you're at. If this goes well, resume your build and enjoy the car!
selling everything and picking up a GTR is a solution but you'll have zero satisfaction and you'll be back at the drawing board...
I'd like you to drive a GTR and have an unsatisfied look on your face. Doubt it actually possible. If you did; you'd probably open a black hole and implode the Earth
Buying stuff has always worked for me. Got out of two separate two-year relationships. First one I went out and bought 6-7 cars(can't even remember) second one I bought a house. I was completely satisfied, lmao
Last edited by iideadeyeii; 08-24-2017 at 07:39 AM.
Well unfortunately me and the wife have some disagreements about my hobby and where I was planning on going with it. I will be selling and parting out everything I have. The turbo kit will come with a brand new turbo and brand new intercooler 0 miles on them to avoid any metal dust concerns, rest of the kit has 2.5 miles on it. I will start disassembly soon and will update this thread when everything is posted in the classifieds.
Well unfortunately me and the wife have some disagreements about my hobby and where I was planning on going with it. I will be selling and parting out everything I have. The turbo kit will come with a brand new turbo and brand new intercooler 0 miles on them to avoid any metal dust concerns, rest of the kit has 2.5 miles on it. I will start disassembly soon and will update this thread when everything is posted in the classifieds.
That's tough. But 'Happy wife, happy life', or something along those lines...
It's been a little bit since I posted any updates. After the slight hurdle with my wife not agreeing with my hobby I figured out how to keep my Z and keep her happy.
I ended up getting her a BMW X5 and now it seems like she forgot I even have my Z. So lesson learned buy her something she wants before any big Z purchases lol.
Back to the Z, I ended up taking everything off/apart to clean flush all the aluminum out of the engine and IC, piping, BOV ect ect with repeated oil changes. Put it all back together with the new Comp Turbo and got it tuned locally.
Not bad, 438hp 364tq to the wheels on a mustang dyno 91oct around 10psi. I would of liked to see more but with a tired motor that's been fed aluminum I can be happy with those numbers for now. Tuner said main thing holding the car back was 91oct Cali gas .
Car is a blast to drive besides traction loss even at speed. Just ordered some 18inch RPF1 9.5 F 10.5R .....not sure on tires yet but probably 275F and 295R size wise. Next after this is to probably start secretly getting my motor built and a return fuel system for either e85 or just run streetblaze 104 from a local station or even just buying the 5gal VP or Sonoco stuff..this will be awhile before the motor build happens unless this engine let's loose hopefully not destroying everything in it's path.
[QUOTE=bealljk;10935269]this would worry me...can you monitor your VTC solenoids to ensure they are getting a duty-cycle?
I had intermittent VTC activation issues and my torque was down 80ft*lbs when they were inactive. 477hp/446t @ 12psi also on 91 oct.[/Q
This is a single turbo car they will make less torque than the twin cars. Not saying there isn't a solenoid issue but the tq/hp differential is way different on mid size single to smaller twin cars.
08-20-2017, 07:50 PM
