M-train

iTrader: (3)

I've done this on two cars, and its worked fine.

There are some things you will have to do different like, of course, the oiling setup to the turbos, as well as you will need a different turbine [vs what you would use on the same engine with a front mounted setup], and a smaller exhaust pipes GOING TO the turbo/turbo's.

Everyone already knows the cons, but here are the pros, as I have personally experienced.

More room in the engine area.

Less heat in the engine bay.

Better weight distribution.

Easier to work/repair turbos if/when needed. [debatable].

Easier to plumb [IMO].

I might be going to turbo my 05 SE-R Altima as I built the engine pretty much as bulletpoof as possible, ie forged everything, ARP studs everywhere, Cometic head gaskets, Aeromotive Stealth fuel pump with adjustable regulator, gutted intake, JWT S2 cams, full length headers, single off road pipe [read no cats].

I'm not wanting anything extreme, just something around 400 whp, with maybe a smallish turbine lower rpm grunt.

The way the engine is built, it will scream at high rpms, so a mild turbo setup would be great for low rpm grunt.

One question, and I don't think this one has been asked since this is an Altima, but what would be best to tune this setup? UpRev would be my choice if I stay NA, but forced induction, AND automatic trans?

Thanks.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

I would talk to Nisformance ... Altima performance is all they do...I bought OEM Nissan to GM TB cable and I had a great interaction with Darren.

http://www.nisformance.com/

I like the idea of a rear mount and it gets a bad wrap ... would be interesting on a Altima

I've better things about the HKS head gaskets vs. the cometic

Conway_160

iTrader: (1)

So why is smaller exhaust better for a rear mount? Does it speed up the exhaust to spool quicker? Does the HP raiting affect the size of the exhaust?

I would love to do a rear mount on my G but I don't see that ever happening.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

OP should confirm ... but I presume a smaller exhaust moves the exhaust gas to the turbo faster, spooling the turbo faster...rear mount means a lot of intake track / pipe, which causes quite a bit of lag ... smaller exhaust mitigate that lag as much as it can...

M-train

iTrader: (3)

Yes, the smaller exhaust going to the turbo increases velocity of the gases that turn the turbine wheel, which helps spool up the turbo.

Its a misconception that a remote setup is bad about lag. Any lag is due to a poorly designed setup, ie exhaust pipes too wrong size turbine, etc.

On this truck I made the mistake of using 3" pipes to the turbo, which made the turbo's boost very high in the rpm range.

Switched to 2.25 exhaust, and everything was much better, not any noticeable lag.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

That. is. one. ... ... ... setup

As I understand (and Im not saying your wrong - infact, were probably talking about the principle / theory)...turbo lag is the time it takes the turbo to compress air faster than the engine is consuming it...

M-train

iTrader: (3)

Yes, I understand turbo lag. Like I said, in a well designed setup its not going to be the problem its made out to be in a remote setup.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

^start a build thread for sure

M-train

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the link.

Question, what are people using to tune this VQ Nissan engines running forced induction?

Outside of a Haltech, for which I don't have that kind of money. [other hot rods I own might warrant that kind of money, but not this car].

M-train

iTrader: (3)

Most likely, if I do it, I would just run the turbo into the trunk area, and maybe do a self contained oiling system with the turbos.

Just build an aluminum box to help contain the heat from the turbo, and drill some cooling holes inside the floor of the box where the heat can get outside air. [also, and again, maybe make an aluminum heat shield for the back seats, depending on how much heat there is.

M-train

iTrader: (3)

Actually the best way to go is just buy a cheap Chinese crap turbo, and get everything fabbed, and working. Drive the car for as long as the POS Chicom turbo holds up, while all along be on the lookout for a good used turbo of the same size.

What would be your recommendations for a single turbo to put the engine in the 400whp range, with the power coming in before 6k rpms?



Thanks guys.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

There was a Platinum Pro for $650 ... but not sure how it'd hook up to your Alt - talk to Nisformance.
https://my350z.com/forum/forced-indu...rness-ecu.html
Haltech or Uprev

hit up iideadeyeii if you go the budget route (not ******* on it) he's done crazy stuff for under $2000 on his setup.

I'm tied to greddy bc my kit but I bought Kinugawa replacement CHRA and I have no complaints.

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

Utec tuning- easy, cheap, plug and play(but discontinued for 350'z so you need to fine one used) plus they already have a couple different base tunes to help on the turboxs website.
Ebay turbo's are fine (I've used 3 on 3 separate vehicles 350Z ~$1800 spent/ Kia Sephia ~$800 spent / Wrangler ~$400 spent and none ever gave me problems)You just need to make sure you give them a cool down before the car is shut off.

I personally would keep it out of the trunk; there should be enough room underneath for the set-up, ORRR if you want to get shwifty you can remove the spare tire area, flatten the trunk and then have all that space underneath the car(I've done this twice on 2 vehicles but it was for weight reduction)

Although, I've never done a rear-mount, but If I had to do the 350z again I would have switched to a rear-mount set-up. It would have been cheaper and less of a headache

M-train

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the info.

Regarding the Utec setup, do you have to buy a license like the Uprev setup? Does it all come complete, or is there anything else to buy? Thanks.

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

No license, just plug and play and included a MAP sensor. They usually go used for around $250-300.

There are a couple accessories like remote map selector switch(I don't have) wideband integration(not needed, see below)

multiple aux rpm triggers
full timing/fuel control
adjust rev limiter(although mine doesn't work and I'm not sure why and I just don't have a rev limiter)
over-boost ignition cut-out protection
knock detection/retard

Bunch of other stuff probably that I can't remember. I am not sure why the Utec wasn't a popular choice for tuning.

Also there are programs that work with the utec for "auto-tuning" that connect with a wideband, but I haven't really used them since I am only going for "good enough" to drive 1k miles a year, but some of them are

MPS logger
UTI4

I think there is another one, but I forget

iideadeyeii

iTrader: (6)

What a deal

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Turboxs-ute...hZ6myR&vxp=mtr

M-train

iTrader: (3)

What is the most common size turbo seen on this forum for people running around 400whp?

I used to know how to look at maps, and do the math for everything, but if there is a certain size turbo that keeps coming up in members turbo builds, then I would like to read about it. [for the record, I really couldn't find much with a search as I don't know the size of the turbo, which is what my question is about].

i8acobra

iTrader: (6)

My old roommate's Camaro SS had a rear mount. It's actually not exhaust velocity that spins the turbo. It's heat and pressure differential. We ran a 3" exhaust on his car, but had it fully ceramic coated and wrapped to retain heat. With a big ST80 turbo, spool was not an issue. Granted, his engine was almost double the size of a VQ35, but the principle is the same. Retain heat in the exhaust.

You see how fast it spools in 3rd @0:40.


Even bigger turbo:


****:

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

i8 - you got a second to elaborate? I don’t disagree with you but would appreciate a bit of an explanation ...

M-train

iTrader: (3)

Its debatable.

I don't have an opinion either way on exhaust heat, vs pipe velocity, but its been debated to death on some of the turbo forums I've visited over the years.