DD Revup engine build and a Vortech
 

Got an '06 touring with 6mt and 160k that was tired. I'm 3+ months into this right now, so I'm just uploading pics of my progress... which is slow because of $$,$$$ LOL. Engine had low compression and major blowby, consuming 1-2 quarts in 500mi. The tear down showed some worn bearings, carbon buildup on the valves, a broken ring land and a plugged cat. Got my 14yr old autoshop student pitching in too.

The engine was fully prep'd at a machine shop
95.75mm low compression CP pistons
manley rods
king bearings
ARP main studs
ARP L19 head studs
HR cooling mod
new valves
all new timing assembly
new oil pump
new water pump
lots of other new parts just cause... I know better

Why LOW Compression pistons?

More pics

I bought a used V2 T-trim that needs a pulley and a couple misc items. My plan is to get the car running hopefully very soon, break the engine in and make sure everything is good before I put the Vortech on. Plus, I need more money... LOL

I second this and those look REALLY low like 8.8

I would have to agree on the compression given the plans for Vortech and the way in which the blower makes boost.

But since it's done and the pistons have been bought, I'll make the OP feel better! The lower compression will allow for lower octane fuel, higher heat conditions, more aggressive tuning and overall greater margin of safety to preclude detonation. The engine will be better-suited for turbos where you can just turn the boost up even at low-mid rpms. A 9:1 engine off boost isn't noticeably different than a stock engine, imo, esp as gearing is so short on these cars.

I could tell a significant difference between 10:1 compression to 8.8 in a stock 130hp car out of boost.

I was planning to turbo the car at first, had already bought the internal engine parts and everything was getting prepped at the machine shop. Then I found the Vortech, I decided to just go with it and keep my options open. I'm not after records, just reliable power.

I put a Z1 flywheel and better clutch in too, but it appears I never took a picture.

Got my Z1 HFC's this weekend. Still need a new catback system though.

I want headers, but have other parts I feel are more important to get it going first. My car was bone stock... so as you all know this has gotten pretty expensive.

And yes... my kids Goats like to wander into the garage and see what I'm up to. Thought it was a great photo op! :icon17:

Well I've been having a rough week with this thing. I had a no start/no spark condition and after trouble shooting everything I could think of I came up with nothing. Came here and did a search and found a thread where someone mixed up the cam sensors after an engine rebuild... so I checked and yup I had the bank 2 sensors flip flopped :rolleyes: Engine fired right up after that!

During that trouble shooting I had noticed an oil puddle under the engine... ugh. Cleaned it up and found the lower oil pan wasn't sealing. Pulled it for the 3rd time now and re-sealed it. Waited 2 days to fill with oil and fire the engine again... only to find out I have no clutch.

Three master cylinders, 2 slave cylinders and about 10,000 pedal pumps and I still got no clutch. It's been completely drained and re-bled to the point there's no more air. Pedal has firm pressure but the trans will not go in gear with the engine running. I think there is something wrong with the position of the clutch fork and my gut feeling says I'm going to be pulling the trans. What could I have screwed up?

Is your clutch plate backwards? Mine was I bought a new slave and wildwood master before I figured it out :-(

Too funny i did the same thing

That's Sucks.... Sorry to hear that.

Did you verify that the Slave is moving?

What components did you replace in the clutch?

To verify Slave, just pump the peddle and have someone under the car watching the movment of the slave.

Slave is moving the fork, approx 5/8"

I pulled the fork boot and slave off, fork is attached to the throwout bearing and at rest is against the clutch fingers.

Flywheel, clutch, pressure plate and throwout bearing are all new from Z1

I think I installed the clutch disc backwards, it's the only thing I can think of... ugh

Just pulled the trans last night... disc is in correctly and I see nothing wrong with the fork/throwout bearing. Ugh

Verify the pressure plate is not defective.
I had one where one of the springs on the edge (retracting spring?) was on the wrong side of the plate and caused the clutch disk to not fully disengage

Also check that the pivot ball didn't snap and is there

It finally moves!

After pulling the trans, swapping clutch components and still coming up with nothing. I resorted to reading instructions again for my RJM clutch pedal, I feel pretty stupid for not even thinking it was the problem. Set it to 0% and readjusted a couple things and finally started building pressure. Engine runs great! I live outside of town, about a min and I'm on the highway and then I let'er have it. Power wise it feels stronger than before I tore it apart. I'm not noticing much difference... maybe it's the lighter flywheel and high flow cats?... or just that my engine was running that poorly... or the butt dyno forgot what the car feels like? Anyways... now I can move on and buy the remaining parts I need to run the Vortech. :icon21:

Hey guys been a long time, year didn't go as planned and I'm finally in a position to buy the remaining parts I need to get this Vortech build finished up this winter. I've put about 10k mi on the engine without a hitch so that's good. I did a Z1 Y-Pipe and Tanabe exhaust after the high flow cats and I've got UpRev Tuner version. Car is currently floating on jack stands to rebuild/upgrade all of my suspension components.

Anyhow, I'd like your guys advice on what fuel system upgrades, injectors and pulley I should run to make at least mid-400whp? I'm not after max power... more after what's the sweet spot for reliability & drive ability? My blower has the 3.3" pulley and I don't believe the cog pulley has been changed from the stock 32? tooth.

Thanks!

Nice updates …

I'll let others chime in on pulleys other than look into a crank dampening pully...it's cheap insurance and may give you a few more blower-rpms. I would look into 600minimum, 800-1000cc sized injectors. Deatchwerks and Injector Dynamics both make good stuff. You'll need a 300lph fuel pump or higher. You could go with a 450lph (probably for the same or close price) and never have to worry about it. Look into a return fuel system from CJ Motorsports - they've got the best/most inclusive product (IMO) on the 350z market.

Are you running an oil cooler?

I'm not running an oil cooler yet, but it's on the 'must do' with the install list... along with a few other things but I think I've got a handle on that.

I think my biggest unknown is how much fuel is needed for the boost range each pulley will do? I saw Z1 pairs 600cc with the v3 sci package they sell. This V2 T-trim is bigger or capable of more if I understand things correctly. Say I get the 750cc deatschwerk injectors and necessary fuel system upgrades... which pulley should I aim to run on the blower?