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Can you reach the crack with your hand? If so clean up the crack. Apply this https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/wc...i_pri_larg.jpg

Might not be the best option, but its' the cheapest/easiest. I've "fixed" a couple cast iron manifold cracks with this and it held up. You might want to make a custom metal brace going from the bottom of the manifold or turbo outlet and bolt it to the engine somewhere so it doesn't happen again.

This is what I WOULD DO, but I'm cheap and like cheap/easy fixes as long as they do not jeopardize safety

Ok, that's worse than what I suggested would fix without the weight of the turbo being completed lifted from pulling on that manifold. Looks like the turbo is ready to drop. Just ship it out to someone who can weld it properly

That thing looks like it should be trashed as opposed to fixed!

There are quite a few race prep shops in the Houston area that I'd take that to. If they don't have a guns-up welder, they'll know someone local who is!

I would not bother welding that. It will keep cracking.

It also has nothing to do with the "weight of the turbo", and all do do with thermal dynamics. Hea tycling, and different areas of the manifold heating/cooling at different rates is what causes this. The fact that these are cast is no surprise at all. A properly build manifold from Sch10 pipe is your best option, but it will cost you a few $$$.

Another vote for replacement. I had my cast GTM manifolds welded as what I knew would be a short term solution, and in 2 years they cracked worse than before. After enough heat cycles they're just not really fixable.

After examining those pics again, I agree with the last two posts: forget about trying to repair that manifold. There's no practical way to quench welding enough to prevent warpage and material damage.

Has anyone found a good option for this?? I also have cracked exhaust manifolds and want to buy a replacement that will work?? Does anyone know if the Jim Wolf Tech manifolds bolt up without major modifications?