Bottom end short block question
 

I have looked everywhere and have done a lot of research before you flame I have been a member for 4 years and have built my car through just using the search button. I currently have a 2006 350Z roadster. I am about to start building an engine but just want to purchase a separate engine while my car is still running to build on. So my question is because I've looked everywhere for it and there's no answer but I've seen is the bottom end of a regular de the same as a rev up? It would probably be cheaper for me to buy a short block de and just swap the heads?what I'm planning on doing is building the bottom in with forged pistons and internals and then when the time's ready work on the heads and everything else of my normal rev up. So I guess the question is does rev up heads bolts up and work just fine on a de bottom? Sorry for my shitty grammer. Flame suit on!

I've actually read that
 

I've actually already read that but it does not really explain it has mainly people saying is mine rev up. I guess I should rephrase my question if someone is going to buy a bottom end of a de / short block if I brought it to a machine shop to be machined out sleeved and drop the Pistons.Will my rev up heads fit onto the de block I thought the only difference was was the heads on a de and computer because the computer has to work the new sensors. I'm not asking can I turn a de block with heads into rev up. Was asking can I use a de bottom and to build since the cores are cheaper. And bolt my rev up heads on to the de bottom end. I have a rev up engine already in my car but don't want to pay $1,300 to buy a separate one to build on I would rather buy a de short block and sleeve it and get ready for head work while my car is still running since it's going to take time and money to do it all. Once I'm ready my plain was to take the rev up heads and get them ported and polished and upgrade everything.

Thank you for the reply I'm glad to get a definite answer a buddy he's selling me his old 04 de block for 250 only issue was his timing chain broke but everything is good. I will post another thread when I'm done building. Going for darton mid sleeves 100mm boar Carrillo super A connecting rods CP Pistons, forged crank and billet crank for a little extra support. My real plan is a car that can handle 800 horsepower but only really going to turn it to 600 just wanted to be long lasting not having to break it down every 30000 miles. Buddy has the same setup and has drove for 64,000 miles and has not had a single issue.

It seems people are/were having issues with sleeves, you should contact dynosty or RZG motorsports.........theyve some great ~800whp options with stock sleeves.

My buddy has the same setup that's ran for 60k miles no issues. 600whp on the road if he goes to the strip he tunes it up to 800whp. I've talked to royalty performance, and z1 Motorsports since I live in ga and royalty is 7 mins from my house. They all say put a block guard and it's good for 600 of I push past 700 I will have head lift. I'm not for block guards because they tend to travel. My goal is a 600/800whp 100k set up like a dealers warranty. Lol My buddy who is also gonna help me build mine said he got around it by arp L19 head studs. Made them a little thicker and a little longer for what I understand. The other issue iv heard is cooling but he has not had any issues with his darton set up what sucks about it is that you have to notch the piston for a 100mm sleeve because of the squirter. I'm open for advice but I've got 17k I'm throwing into the engine and setup. I've had the car for 4 years I've done everything all most possible for na from rad to cams transmission and i still have a speed bug after driving a few boosted cars. I want a demon killer...... P.s. not the type of dumbass who's gonna wreck and kill him self im driving professionally on the track for the last 8 years used to race Hondas that I'v snailed myself. Also I don't race this car on the street at all I'm 30 and I only got track and drag stip mainly. It's my toy that pisses the wife off ahaha.

From everything i've seen the DE and Rev up are the same block different heads and the HR (35 and37) and VHR are the same block with different rotating assembly's.

That makes me really excited to hear that because it saves me a small fortune meaning I can spend a fortune building lol!

Dynosty is the best, tried and proven. If money's no issue, HAL at Dynosty is the guy you should be talking to.

I will give him a call tomorrow and ask but his shop is in Kentucky. Iv never heard of dynosty! But like I said I have z1 motors a hour away I have royalty performance a few doors down and a few other great tuners in ga idk if it would be worth the long drive idk what there shop prices are but I know what I'm seen come out of z1 and royalty. I can spare expense hints why I want to save a few 100 buy buying a de bottom. 17k is not alot to build and turbo a engine from scratch tbh think once you have blown 14k on the engine and snails you have to upgrade rims/wider tires breaks suspension. Rear diff just for traction. Then breaks if you don't have brembos. What good is a 600whp car if you can't put it down... A good burn out king or a Dyno queen lol

Nice..... Who make the Crankshaft?

B/c Brian crow there's is good for up to 1200whp even though our blocks would flex and bust at 1000whp..... I've never seen a z at 1000whp but that added security would be nice. :)

Here is 934WHP from Dynosty https://dynosty.com/2014/11/23/rays-934whp-nissan-350z/

Here is 1000WHP build from SOHO https://sohomotorsports.com/1000-hp-...-world-record/

Sounds like my build almost to the tee..... Except I'm not doing a stroker kit I'm just doing 100mm bore and that's 3.8L displacement iv heard to many problems with the strokers.... Just saying..

• Closed Deck VQ35DE Block
• Brian Crower Stroker Kit (96 mm CP pistons *9:0 CR*, Carillo Connecting Rods, Brian Crower Connecting Rod Fasteners / Bolts ARP 625+ Custom Age)
• ARP Main Studs
• ARP Custom Age 625+ CA625 Head Stud
• King Main & Rod Bearings
• King Thrust Washers
• Cometic Head Gaskets
• Ferrera +1mm oversized intake/ exhaust valves
• Ferrera Dual valve spring & retainer kit
• Ferrera intake/exhaust valve seals
• Ferrera Bronze +.001 intake/exhaust valve guides
• SOHO Motorsports stage two headwork
• Tomei 280 Duration Camshafts
• Dynosty Billet Main Girdle
• Rev-Up oil pump
• OEM water pump
• Timing chain, guides & tensioner
• What's funny is if you read on it blew my statement stands there is not 1000whp z that is still on the road after 30k miles thank you though for showing me that though it makes me feel better that they used the same parts my buddy recommend and shows that my build will hold 800whp reliable.

Why not just get something like
https://www.importpartspro.com/stage...initi-g35.html
and call it a day. You said you have 17k to play with. This leaves you with about 8k left

I'm not a huge fan of boring out a DE block (albeit 2mm less wall, albeit you're closed deck) for another .3liters of displacement. Your pistons will me more expensive and boring the block out has its own inherent pitfalls.

Look into Sucker Punch or Boundary oil pump gears. I absolutely would not proceed without them.

I'm not a huge fan of heavily modifying the Rev-Up Block - mostly because the exhaust cam-phasing mechanism can shoot-the-bed and cost you your build. But you're pretty far in and I doubt you want to go find a 03/04/05 chassis to do all this on.

Add an oil cooler

I didn't immediately see it - but what form of FI are you going? What fuel do you intend to use (assuming corn)? What are you going to tune with? What were you thinking for oil bearing clearance?

I agree with your buddy that these engines will not hold 800+ medium to long term - but that's just me...hope you can prove us both wrong and in for the build!

to answer the upper question I would not just buy a block someone else built plus for that price I can put a lot more into that block than what they're offering me.. just saying. And yes I thought about a closed deck system but you would have to get your heads to a smooth .oo9 surface level and that's hard and my chassis is a 06 roadster I chose that chassis because I think it's funny when a convertible Barbie car outruns a vet or lambo plus I like to stand out look at the drag strip timesheets on this forum I would love to be in the top 10 with a convertible. I'm going to go as far with this build as I possibly can. even do weight distribution to all four corners with the 4 pad weight system. So that the car does not hook left or right just straight. I'm definitely going to look up the oil problem you were talking about it does sound dangerous.I want to go into this build with every bit of knowledge that I possibly can I appreciate you teaching me this. Also I'm boring 100mm piston size and darton sleeves I'm not trying to hold 800whp long term I want what he has had for 4 years his is 650whpish daily driver 800whpish when he goes to the drag strip. I'm taking our shitty sleeves out lol. I'm not doing. A 4.1/4.2 stroker I'm just doing a 3.8 liter as of fuel I have everything close to me corn and racing fuel within 2 miles of my house and my dragstrip I go-to has both for pretty cheap. I'm going twins like him. And 800whp is the max I'd ever want to tune these engines and I wouldn't even dare run that long term me and him only go-to the drag strip once a month. He drives his to work everyday and mine sits in the driveway for two weeks at a time tbh. And the oil cooler was the first thing I put into my car when I bought it. I have a mishi. Also a mishi rad and fan. That sucker blows you can hear it fire up over my engine idle sounds like a jet lol. Like I said up top I'm fully built na other than pistons. 17k is the total budget of me and my friend doing all the work except a machine shop that's it. I'm gonna ash Ketchum this car lol. I think my goals are realistic.

Your previous post was hard to read and conceptualize … break that up into paragraphs and proof read it before you submit reply.

I'm not saying buy someone else build whatsoever … but I am saying consider (which you are probably pretty tied to your setup as is … so disregard) a DE engine & chassis that's all.

I'm not a huge fan of convertibles but that's just me … more power to you!

I would read as many build threads/blogs as you can and learn as much as you can about what others have done that works and doesn't work. Don't reinvent any wheels.

Youre welcome for the free knowledge!

I'd highly highly recommend not boring & sleeve'ing … I really can't think of a single bore & sleeve build that has worked out. IMO, keep the 3.5liter displacement and make power under this constraint … if you're looking for 800whp it can be done with 3.5 liters.

You probably would do better with a larger single turbo versus twin (smaller) turbos … I've run both and twins are a pain and can be laggy due to the amount of duct-work you'll need to run … just my two cents.

also (solely my opinion, but) mishimoto components sucks …just my opinion - if they work for you than that's great...

• First off I'm doing this from a phone. Also at work we're I'm not supposed to do not really time to proof read.
• Mishi sucks for fi my car is na right now going Kyoto when I boost or is there better?
• Not reinventing any if you been a member of this form as long as I have and you should know there's not one thing to 350Z that has not been already done.
• As of single vs. twin single takes forever to spool I drive track and drag.
• Converts do suck that's why it sucks more when you get beat by one lol
• Last but not least I don't get offended because everyone has there opinions.