quickdiversion

I hope the claim works out for him.

Im avoiding that placeas much as possible.
I understand that it should have worked as advertised the first time and time is money, I was just thinking off the top of my head. All I do at workis trouble shoot, my own car's, helping others. I'm just always looking for an answer.


The only reason I went this route is due to the stock ecu, I do not want a stand alone. I did that for years, as well as figuring out the crank trigger.

I'd be all ears to hear about an absolute way of doing it.

quickdiversion

Ok, sooooo I guess you ran out of things to talk to me about.

Moving forward. I was able to pick up my drive shaft from CT DRIVE SHAFT in East Hartford CT. Chris and Jesse are no BS guys who know there stuff. Thy handed me a flange and yoke, I went home and measured how they told me to. Called them with the measurement, 3 days later Jesse called me back saying it was ready. I stopped in today and he put on the flange and yoke and I was done.

No BS, No Drama. Thank you very much guys.







Still waiting on Brett Collins from Collins adapters to do my shifter shortening. That is turning out to be another Nightmare about getting the right Sh*t.

Basically I called and explained what I needed, spoke directly to Brett. He said no problem ship it to the address on the website and call me back when it gets here.

Checked the tracking and called the day it arrived. He looked at it and the picture I enclosed, we reviewed exactly what I need, again he said no problem, but since it is gonna be completely from scratch, it will take about 3 weeks. No problem.

He emails me a week later saying its done and what is my paypal email. I inquire if he did all I asked and what we agreed on. NOPE, he just did their basic shortening process. So I told him he did it wrong and called him and explained all over again what I wanted. He said ok and email him requesting an invoice.

A week of emailing him requesting an invoice. I called and called with no answer and I finally emailed him reviewing all the dates and times we spoke and our conversations. He finally invoiced me, for the correct amount and said 2 weeks.


That was on the 10th. We shall see what happens next week.

quickdiversion

So I will be in the garage this weekend, here is the list.

-remove headers
-install upstream O2
-install headers............again...
-install heater core lines
-bend and install new front brake lines
-cut back fuel and evap lines to reroute away from headers
-install plastic intake
-wait on shifter
-IF O2 sensers clear with headers on, order ps pump, alt and a/c comp

quickdiversion

So this weekend was excellent.

- Both O2 sensors were installed, I only had to drop the pass header; I also had to man handle the fire wall a bit to let it clear since these headers are designed for a 350 so its slightly different shape.

- 0 gauge batter cable was run through the car but a good friend that came to help for a bit. back seats were removed and the cable was run away from any chaff areas.

- Power distribution was actually 100x easier than I hoped as the batter terminal can be unbolted from the fuse block. So power line was bolted directly on the block and done.





- Front brake lines were removed and new lines bent and installed. I should have done this much sooner as with the motor in, it was a pain.... Live and learn.







- Heater core lines were cut and combined as well as installed; they were also used to secure all lines and harness behind the intake plenum.









Getting so close!

quickdiversion

So Good news, Bad news and Disappointing news.

Let me give you all a word of advice on another company to stay away from. Brett Collins and Collins Adapters. If you are gonna buy some in stock sh*t, go for it. If you are gonna believe him that he can make something happen for you, You will be sorry, as am I.

I outlined above my issue and conversation with Brett Collins of Collins adapters and how little he cares about anything but getting your money.

I finally get my shifter, It is not a modified stock unit, which I sent him off my trans. No I paid to ship that to him and he butchered it and F**ked it up, because he is an idiot and doesn't take notes.

I get this completely custom unit, which at first I am excited for, because hey for twice the price.... It better be good.







Alright, so far so good huh. Not bad it mounts to the trans dead center just how I asked for it.

Now look at this sh*t.....







FYI, that picture is in neutral, I think.

So yeah, from good to sh*t.
But here's the kicker, I had to disassemble the entire thing from underneath the car in order to put the center garnish around the shifter. That completely pi**ed me off. So I write an angry e-mail to Brett.
I also write to the e-mail address on the bottom of the instructions that came with it.

It was outsourced to another company with no addition instructions I asked for!!!
Even better is, the guy who made it told me to heat it up and straighten it!!!

What the hell is with people.
Why is everyone constantly making this harder for me.

quickdiversion

OK, the shifter can be installed and removed from inside the car, no need to wait on the driveshaft and exhaust....







And the exhaust so far. I noticed, I am missing a gasket and hardware. So this is it for now.







I am gonna play with the piping to adjust height.

rustyschopshop

Glad to see you are still plucking away at your build. Keep up the good work and looking forward to seeing more progress.

1969honda

Good to see your making progress, sucks about the shifter though. Keep up the hard work man, we are all pulling for you to finish it up and enjoy thrashing that beast around!

quickdiversion

So for all those wondering about A/C. Here is a little teaser, and my answer.

bruthaboost

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for sharing your build, but your pics aren't showing up. I'm getting "please update your account to enable 3rd party hosting". Is there something wrong with my settings?

1969honda

It's probably a Photobucket account issue, several threads and people I know of are having the same problem where Photobucket wants $399 to store your pictures now and be able to share them on another website.

quickdiversion

I have not recieved and notifications from photobucket about that change and pay requirement. I also have never told anything when posting photos.

There is no way in hell I would pay photobucket anything, the site is absolute garbage and so slow I think it has crashed at times.

Honda, can you see the pictures?

1969honda

No I can't see any pictures, it's a new thing within the last couple of days they have implemented.

quickdiversion

Wow. Looks like photo bucket is about to go out of business

quickdiversion

Wow. Looks like photo bucket is about to go out of business.

They are the absolute worst photo sharring host ever and now they want to charge?

Lol time to switch

1969honda

I still need to look into it but I've heard if you have your Google Drive somehow you might be able do it through Google photos or through your Google Drive

quickdiversion

I am having an electrical issue now.
I will repost it here for people following this.

So I finally had my swap to the point where I can try and start it

I hook up the battery, all is good, ACC on, all the lights come on, go. Crank, and 2 clicks of the solenoid and it all goes black.

So far is is what I have checked.

-12v at the battery, which is in the trunk.
-12v the the fuse block in the front that originally was on the battery. Here is
the thing, there is only 12v at that fuse block when I pull the 2 connectors
with 4g lines coming off.

both connectors with 4g wires disconnected and I disconnected W/R and W/L to pins other ends of lines which plug into IPDM, .03 ohm, and not shorted to ground.

Same W/R and W/L pulled from connectors and individualized connected to fuse block and 12v at each line about to plug into the IPDM.

If I plug the connector into the Ipdm and the check voltage at the main fuse block, i NOW HAVE 6V.

I pulled the secondary fuse block and body control module lines out of connector at the main fuse block. I pulled all fuses from secondary fuse block and read 12v at incoming lines. put the fuses back in and I drop down to 6v again

I remove the power line from the fuse block that feeds the BCM and with only that single line connected to the main fuse black I get 12v on W/B before going into the fuse panel If I plug it back in and than check voltage back at the main fuse block, it drops down to 6v

It seems every item I plug into, like how it should be draws out Voltage.

If I hook up everything normal like it should work and check voltage on the like coming from the battery, that I know had 12v before hooking it up, once hooked up, it drops to 3.5V

This is driving me made, it is a brand new yellow top, 12.5V at the battery. Not sure the amps currently cause my MM doesn't read that high, or there is Zero.

Tried hooking jumper cables up to my wife's batter with her car running and Directly ion the the lines that should be on the battery, no change.

there is 3.5V at the fuse for the interior lights, that should come on when the door is open. but no lights.


Please ask for clarify if I didn't make sense on something. I am beyond made at this.

quickdiversion

Wow so it seems photobucket pulled there head out of their A**. Now that I can do add pictures, I will continue,

I tried starting the car about a month ago and blew the IPDM, the TCS, and the BCM.

I have absolutely no clue what keeps happening. Now I am having a voltage creep issue. Meaning my battery voltage creeps to 17 volts and keeps going with no electrical units connected or the key in the car. I know its not the alt, the car is not running, there is no belt on it, and wires are pulled.

The problem I am having with toasting units is that the high voltage is toasting relays on the ipdm that can not be swapped, mainly the wiper and the tail lights.

I purchased new relays for them, pin to get from china, but until I figure out why I am getting 17+ voltages I am just gonna cook units again.

quickdiversion

quickdiversion

So first attempt at starting and here's what happened...


and will not let me link videos still.

Basically The motor will spin fine under new starter when the starter is Directly connected to the starter.