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70% jwt twin kit. 30% custom. My build

Old 09-02-2018, 07:59 PM
  #21  
bealljk
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Originally Posted by Tran251 View Post
An oil cooler is a great tip. I will order the sandwich plate and try to fab up a bracket assy.
As for the FSM I managed to DL when it was still up. Thank goodness I saved it on my desktop and phone.
Maximum boost will be ordered next Friday when I get paid. Iíll be sure to read it.
As for oil pump, I purchased another rev up oil pump but never budgeted for the upgraded gears from boundary engineering. .. I was up in the air with this one. Have the rev up pumps failed before? I plan not to rev above 7100. So I hope it holds. I also didnít get a block guard.(the one that goes into the water jackets) Z1 was recommending it if I was to rev above 8k. But I told them my plans to just stay near stock levels due to my stock heads.
By the time I get the engine built I hope youíll have a ems system picked out so I can see how it goes.
How is the HP academy? I was thinking about taking the flash ems classes when I was considering going just uprev. But $800+ Is it worth it? Do they have good interactive support staff to answer questions quickly.
Also. What welder did u buy for your Aluminium tig welding? I used to be a ship fitter/ welder. But I never tig welded. We never had to tig weld where I worked, just mig and stick. So Iíll be going in half blind. Lol
i was looking at a cheapo used harbor freight mig and just squirt gunning my aluminum piping.
Thanks for helping bealljk.

you're prob fine with a new rev-up pump assuming you're staying under 7k redline

I got in early with HPA and Im grand fathered in. Do a few months of their webinar access and see how you like it. It's top-notch quality.

I think Uprev has pretty good customer service but research what others have done. I would probably go haltech, Link, AEM - I like being able to make changes in real time.

I bought an Everlast 200 TIG - it was around $1300 shipped, add $200 for immediate consumable, and $300 for a respectfully-sized tank. If youre going to get something through Harbor Freight - They have an AC TIG setup, get that. I wouldnt MIG aluminum, especially with a spoolmate - I couldnt get it to look even halfway respectable.
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Old 09-03-2018, 10:08 AM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by bealljk View Post
you're prob fine with a new rev-up pump assuming you're staying under 7k redline

I got in early with HPA and Im grand fathered in. Do a few months of their webinar access and see how you like it. It's top-notch quality.

I think Uprev has pretty good customer service but research what others have done. I would probably go haltech, Link, AEM - I like being able to make changes in real time.

I bought an Everlast 200 TIG - it was around $1300 shipped, add $200 for immediate consumable, and $300 for a respectfully-sized tank. If youre going to get something through Harbor Freight - They have an AC TIG setup, get that. I wouldnt MIG aluminum, especially with a spoolmate - I couldnt get it to look even halfway respectable.
geez. Thatís expensive. I canít afford a welder yet Lol I believe itís worth the wait to buy a good tig then.
Im just erasing the cast seams on the lower intake collector.

Looks like the Nissan factory made an attempt to grind down the top already, on the rev up?


Iíll just try smooth out the casting lines and finish what the factory started. Until I get my internals from z1. Dammit I just purchased a plenum spacer from a guy here. Then I read that it doesnít do anything. Thatís my life there. Lol hopefully it makes at least 1 extra hp somewhere for FI. That way I donít feel as bad.
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Old 09-07-2018, 08:07 PM
  #23  
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Upper oil pan ball valve behind the stock oil cooler has a crack. Anyone know whatís the part number? Iíd hate to buy a new upper pan just for that little booger
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Old 09-07-2018, 08:15 PM
  #24  
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Notice the upper ball seat area. Itís cracked and chipped away. I found an old thread about this but the part link doesnít work anymore. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 09-07-2018, 08:29 PM
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Found it. Called oil cooler relief valve. In the LU section on FSM.
Says to pry out with suitable tool and tap in a new one.
Found the relief valve here. https://www.nedautoparts.com/product...ssan-350z-370z
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Old 09-08-2018, 03:03 AM
  #26  
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I think I read somewhere that rev-up's ditching their lower plenum for the DE is the way to go. If you're attempting to max out on power you might want to read up on that.
I did mine, though it was done along with several other intake-related mods so idk just what this in particular did for me but Tony from MD said it's good for a few.

Last edited by onevq35de; 09-08-2018 at 03:05 AM.
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Old 09-08-2018, 06:49 AM
  #27  
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Your plenum looks a lot better than what I did. Lol all I did was erase the casting lines and called it a day.
Hey onevq35de have you ever replaced your oil pressure relief valve behind your stock oil cooler? The service manual says to replace every disassembly. Iím afraid Iíll destroy the housing when Iím removing it. I got a new one for 13$ at never ending details.
Have you decided on going to take a road trip to z nationals?
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Old 09-08-2018, 06:57 AM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by bealljk View Post
Hardly a heavy hitter ... Atlanta would be a hike for me but I'd love to go!

You got a nice build going, great pictures too - keep this thread going with your progress and any issues you run in to - there are some good guys on the forum that can help.


Its probably ok to buff out the casting marks in the OEM intake manifold and lower plenum but I would tell you to NOT increase the diameter of those components as they are designed in a specific manner.
If you have the Rev-up lower plenum, have you considered swapping back to a DE lower plenum and doing the motor-dyne mod and adding a plenum spacer??
I will be searching for a used de model lower plenum today on eBay. Thatís good someone figured out the perfect combination like that.

Today Iíll be replacing little Nic nacs while I wait for the Head gaskets and torque honing plate from CCA racing. Iíll be replacing the rear transmission output seal and clutch line. The fsm isnít really that clear on how to remove. Iíll try and be gentle n use picks. Donít worry. Itís just the tip. Lol
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Old 09-08-2018, 07:42 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by Tran251 View Post
Hey onevq35de have you ever replaced your oil pressure relief valve behind your stock oil cooler? The service manual says to replace every disassembly. I’m afraid I’ll destroy the housing when I’m removing it. I got a new one for 13$ at never ending details.
Have you decided on going to take a road trip to z nationals?
I thought I had a better photo on my thread for this. I looked quickly and all I could find were the 2 below. In the bottom pic, you can see part of the filter. I did delete it but didn't do a diy.
The "oil cooler" is really a "oil filter warmer" imo. I've read the arguments and this is what I've determined it to be and it's not needed. Matter of fact, it's been known to cause problems. It's dead weight with a couple ugly hoses hanging off of it. There's a diy to delete it on this site. The hoses for it run to the thermostat housing on one end and to the coolant hard pipe on the passenger side. You can get rid of all that **** but then you've got the nipples to contend with. Now's the perfect time for you to delete a whole mess of **** and do a wire tuck if these sorts of things interest you. Get it out of the bay and out of your way permanently. It'll look much better, remove some weight and make things easier to work on in the future.
Na, I don't plan on attending. My "4 door Z" would fit in better if I had everything done that I have planned (FI in some form) but I don't. Someday.




Last edited by onevq35de; 09-08-2018 at 07:45 AM.
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Old 09-08-2018, 08:48 AM
  #30  
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I blitzed mine as well ... I thought it was for emissions...I put my oil cooler sandwich plate there instead.

It's a moot point as of right now - I reinstalled my OEM alternator and it hits the oil filter, so I'm going to do a relocation kit to fit everyone thing in.

Last edited by bealljk; 09-08-2018 at 08:50 AM.
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Old 09-08-2018, 08:56 AM
  #31  
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Yeah, emissions. Same as the throttle body "warmer" cavity that's got coolant going to and fro. Great for emissions until the engine warms up then terrible when one has hot-*** "coolant" running through the throttle body. Hoses that flow coolant from the engine to radiator are "coolant" hoses cause they cool but those that run to the heater and other misc. areas are called "heater" hoses cause they heat. I'd delete the radiator if I could.
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Old 09-08-2018, 09:04 AM
  #32  
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lol...gotta have a radiator!!

I did remove a bunch of the HVAC (like all of them) and it really cleaned things up!
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Old 09-08-2018, 01:50 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by onevq35de View Post
I thought I had a better photo on my thread for this. I looked quickly and all I could find were the 2 below. In the bottom pic, you can see part of the filter. I did delete it but didn't do a diy.
The "oil cooler" is really a "oil filter warmer" imo. I've read the arguments and this is what I've determined it to be and it's not needed. Matter of fact, it's been known to cause problems. It's dead weight with a couple ugly hoses hanging off of it. There's a diy to delete it on this site. The hoses for it run to the thermostat housing on one end and to the coolant hard pipe on the passenger side. You can get rid of all that **** but then you've got the nipples to contend with. Now's the perfect time for you to delete a whole mess of **** and do a wire tuck if these sorts of things interest you. Get it out of the bay and out of your way permanently. It'll look much better, remove some weight and make things easier to work on in the future.
Na, I don't plan on attending. My "4 door Z" would fit in better if I had everything done that I have planned (FI in some form) but I don't. Someday.



if the oil cooler is actually a warmer. Iíll delete and use one to supply coolant to turbos and the other to drain? How do you feel about doing that?
Geez. Ur engine bay is something serious. Full race version. And itís so clean. I should trash all of those metal brackets also. Did you have any trouble after deleting those brackets? How bout you oneVq35de?

well one day we will see one another at a track meet hopefully. Iíll be the one in the back of the pack. Lol

i found a way to remove the oil pressure relief valve cleanly.
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Old 09-08-2018, 01:55 PM
  #34  
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Default How to remove the oil pressure relief valve on Vq35de


Used the axle puller tool kit from autozone.

The large extension fits right inside the pressure relief housing after removing the ball and spring.

Donít worry the pressure relief valve sleeving is soft so itíll screw right in. Took about 5 mins thank goodness. Now I have to wait until the new one comes in. Iíll use a small socket to tap in the new.
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Old 09-08-2018, 02:03 PM
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Possible to use the oil cooler coolant lines to feed n drain the turbos? If so itíll be cleaner than to tap from the heater hoses like jwt calls for.
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Old 09-08-2018, 02:04 PM
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Originally Posted by onevq35de View Post
Yeah, emissions. Same as the throttle body "warmer" cavity that's got coolant going to and fro. Great for emissions until the engine warms up then terrible when one has hot-*** "coolant" running through the throttle body. Hoses that flow coolant from the engine to radiator are "coolant" hoses cause they cool but those that run to the heater and other misc. areas are called "heater" hoses cause they heat. I'd delete the radiator if I could.
when u deleted the coolant lines to the throttle body. Did u just cap the lines?
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Old 09-08-2018, 02:21 PM
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while your upper oil pan is out of the car I would suggest getting two AN-8 male fittings welded on to the oil pan for your turbo oil drain lines ... It was a very smart and I believe it stops turbo smoking as it gives the drain minimal resistance to scavenge oil back into the oil pan.
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Old 09-08-2018, 03:27 PM
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Originally Posted by Tran251 View Post
Possible to use the oil cooler coolant lines to feed n drain the turbos? If so itíll be cleaner than to tap from the heater hoses like jwt calls for.
Those lines have coolant running through them, not oil, fyi. Bealljk has the answers to your turbo questions. You should offer him a retainer fee so he'll answer all your questions.
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Old 09-08-2018, 03:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Tran251 View Post

when u deleted the coolant lines to the throttle body. Did u just cap the lines?
'
You can take the hose going to and the hose coming from the throttle body and use a barbed connector + 2 small hose clamps to simply divert the coolant or in your situation with the engine pulled, delete them from their sources which is even better imo. Something I'll do when my engine is out.
You may not want to do what I did regarding the nips. I used original jb weld. Preparation is everything and I have no fear that the product or my work will fail. I have an HR thermostat & housing which is nipple-free as the HR doesn't have the oil heater and then 3 (?) nipples jb welded.
Most remove the nips and get'em welded which I will probably do when the engine comes out but not until then.
You've got a great opportunity to really customize everything in the bay. Here's my thread below which has a lot of the deletes, wire tucking crap and **** like that. CUX350z has a thread with tons of info on this as well. You've got some research to do Tran!
There's a lot of on my thread but tons of good stuff too imo, so just look for the pictures that relate to the topic.
https://www.infinitiscene.com/thread...e-mods.230572/

Last edited by onevq35de; 09-08-2018 at 03:39 PM.
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Old 09-08-2018, 03:46 PM
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Geez. Ur engine bay is something serious. Full race version. And it’s so clean. I should trash all of those metal brackets also. Did you have any trouble after deleting those brackets? How bout you oneVq35de?
well one day we will see one another at a track meet hopefully. I’ll be the one in the back of the pack. Lol

Thanks. It was a lot of work but I did it myself thanks to primarily this site. It's a stock block but with all the right bolt-on's and is the fastest naturally aspirated fx35, 45 or qx70 v6 known of on the planet and I haven't gotten tired of writing that yet
I got rid of every bracket I could, even the one behind the alternator which was a pita to remove with the alt. on the engine. I have had 0 problems with the work I did, save for almost destroying my transmission while ****ing up a shift kit install and loosing a/c refrigerant due to my diy 4" intake clamp cutting into the high pressure line.
If we meet on the track someday, believe me, I'll be the one at the back with my big fat-assed 4 door Z.

Last edited by onevq35de; 09-08-2018 at 03:50 PM.
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