70% jwt twin kit. 30% custom. My build
09-16-2018, 07:49 AM
#41
New Member
Thread Starter
Geez. Ur engine bay is something serious. Full race version. And it’s so clean. I should trash all of those metal brackets also. Did you have any trouble after deleting those brackets? How bout you oneVq35de?
well one day we will see one another at a track meet hopefully. I’ll be the one in the back of the pack. Lol
Thanks. It was a lot of work but I did it myself thanks to primarily this site. It's a stock block but with all the right bolt-on's and is the fastest naturally aspirated fx35, 45 or qx70 v6 known of on the planet and I haven't gotten tired of writing that yet
I got rid of every bracket I could, even the one behind the alternator which was a pita to remove with the alt. on the engine. I have had 0 problems with the work I did, save for almost destroying my transmission while ****ing up a shift kit install and loosing a/c refrigerant due to my diy 4" intake clamp cutting into the high pressure line.
If we meet on the track someday, believe me, I'll be the one at the back with my big fat-assed 4 door Z.
well one day we will see one another at a track meet hopefully. I’ll be the one in the back of the pack. Lol
Thanks. It was a lot of work but I did it myself thanks to primarily this site. It's a stock block but with all the right bolt-on's and is the fastest naturally aspirated fx35, 45 or qx70 v6 known of on the planet and I haven't gotten tired of writing that yet
I got rid of every bracket I could, even the one behind the alternator which was a pita to remove with the alt. on the engine. I have had 0 problems with the work I did, save for almost destroying my transmission while ****ing up a shift kit install and loosing a/c refrigerant due to my diy 4" intake clamp cutting into the high pressure line.
If we meet on the track someday, believe me, I'll be the one at the back with my big fat-assed 4 door Z.
how about using the oil cooler coolant lines to feed/ drain the turbos? The way JWT does the coolant for the turbos is to take the feed from the passenger side heater hose for the feed and the drain to the lower oil cooler coolant hose. I figure if the oil cooler is gonna be deleted, may as well use the lines to cool the turbos. But I’m afraid it may not have enough flow to cool the turbos.
the way APS runs the coolant lines are in series and I’ve seen complaints about hot coolant temps here in the forum. It runs from upper passenger heater hose to right turbo. From other side of right turbo to left turbo. Then from left turbo to under the t stat.
09-16-2018, 08:14 AM
#42
New Member
You might want to participate in the turbo forums and ask these questions. If turbo's are cooled using the engines coolant, well, I would try to isolate them away from that scenario if possible. I new they used the engines oil and thought that's what did the cooling. Besides, aren't turbo's best hot? I cannot remember the sort of turbo that doesn't need to share the engines oil but that's the sort I was considering. They're greased instead.
I did consider a turbo, a rear mounted one. The rear would be good for me cause I'm all about a cooler engine bay, I love the sound of these rear mounted turbo's and even when my engine and transmission are built, the auto trans will only handle so much torque so I'm limited. I could swap in a manual but I'm not parting with my all wheel drive.
You might be better off saving time regarding making any brackets until you've got everything back together. I'm sure there will be 1 or 3 oem brackets that will come in handy but if you find yourself tucking this and deleting that, then those brackets can be tossed. I used one of the small deleted brackets to mount my oil catch can to the power steering bracket which I thought made for a clean install.
I did consider a turbo, a rear mounted one. The rear would be good for me cause I'm all about a cooler engine bay, I love the sound of these rear mounted turbo's and even when my engine and transmission are built, the auto trans will only handle so much torque so I'm limited. I could swap in a manual but I'm not parting with my all wheel drive.
You might be better off saving time regarding making any brackets until you've got everything back together. I'm sure there will be 1 or 3 oem brackets that will come in handy but if you find yourself tucking this and deleting that, then those brackets can be tossed. I used one of the small deleted brackets to mount my oil catch can to the power steering bracket which I thought made for a clean install.
Last edited by onevq35de; 09-16-2018 at 08:19 AM.
09-16-2018, 08:56 AM
#43
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
From your HG thread ... you should use this build thread for anything related to your build and/or dont start a new thread for each sub-topic of your build ... just put it here...
If I remember right, and you could go back and watch the HPA webinar on head gaskets and I asked what gasket they have like the best and I believe they said cometic. So I think you'll be happy with it.
Theyre a really good bunch of guys and have a really good product. I'm sold on it!
Right on! It's a great setup and it may be the right choice for you all things considered. Furthermore, there is a plethora of haltech knowledge of this forum. I'm getting deeper and deeper in the link and it's pretty complicated and depsite me having 'some' tuning knowledge it's above my head to tune and I'll be paying a tuner to do the work (which I'm ok with).
I believe you want it hooked up as close to the TB as possible ... I think mine is about 12" - 18" down, so it's not directly above the headers. I would tell you that a good spot.
Have you looked through my thread for where I hooked up the sensor? Member CUX350z is really smart and helped me and I can open-up that wire loom and remind myself which wires the ECU uses for the temperature reading if its not in my build thread. It's a simple GM temp sensor. Be sure the sensor you buy has the pigtail with it. I think mine was like $20 shipped. I believe the sensor is a therm-istor (thermal resistor) and is a simple two wire and does not require a 12volt power source.
If I remember right, and you could go back and watch the HPA webinar on head gaskets and I asked what gasket they have like the best and I believe they said cometic. So I think you'll be happy with it.
Do you remember how u had the air temp sensor hooked up? I will hook up the probe at where the air leaves the intercooler. Or should I hook it up on the charge pipe right before the TB? As for the wiring, did you get the power from the ecu out or should I run separate 12+ and ground then just the signal to the ecu?
Have you looked through my thread for where I hooked up the sensor? Member CUX350z is really smart and helped me and I can open-up that wire loom and remind myself which wires the ECU uses for the temperature reading if its not in my build thread. It's a simple GM temp sensor. Be sure the sensor you buy has the pigtail with it. I think mine was like $20 shipped. I believe the sensor is a therm-istor (thermal resistor) and is a simple two wire and does not require a 12volt power source.
09-20-2018, 06:14 PM
#44
New Member
Thread Starter
From your HG thread ... you should use this build thread for anything related to your build and/or dont start a new thread for each sub-topic of your build ... just put it here...
If I remember right, and you could go back and watch the HPA webinar on head gaskets and I asked what gasket they have like the best and I believe they said cometic. So I think you'll be happy with it.
Theyre a really good bunch of guys and have a really good product. I'm sold on it!
Right on! It's a great setup and it may be the right choice for you all things considered. Furthermore, there is a plethora of haltech knowledge of this forum. I'm getting deeper and deeper in the link and it's pretty complicated and depsite me having 'some' tuning knowledge it's above my head to tune and I'll be paying a tuner to do the work (which I'm ok with).
I believe you want it hooked up as close to the TB as possible ... I think mine is about 12" - 18" down, so it's not directly above the headers. I would tell you that a good spot.
Have you looked through my thread for where I hooked up the sensor? Member CUX350z is really smart and helped me and I can open-up that wire loom and remind myself which wires the ECU uses for the temperature reading if its not in my build thread. It's a simple GM temp sensor. Be sure the sensor you buy has the pigtail with it. I think mine was like $20 shipped. I believe the sensor is a therm-istor (thermal resistor) and is a simple two wire and does not require a 12volt power source.
If I remember right, and you could go back and watch the HPA webinar on head gaskets and I asked what gasket they have like the best and I believe they said cometic. So I think you'll be happy with it.
Theyre a really good bunch of guys and have a really good product. I'm sold on it!
Right on! It's a great setup and it may be the right choice for you all things considered. Furthermore, there is a plethora of haltech knowledge of this forum. I'm getting deeper and deeper in the link and it's pretty complicated and depsite me having 'some' tuning knowledge it's above my head to tune and I'll be paying a tuner to do the work (which I'm ok with).
I believe you want it hooked up as close to the TB as possible ... I think mine is about 12" - 18" down, so it's not directly above the headers. I would tell you that a good spot.
Have you looked through my thread for where I hooked up the sensor? Member CUX350z is really smart and helped me and I can open-up that wire loom and remind myself which wires the ECU uses for the temperature reading if its not in my build thread. It's a simple GM temp sensor. Be sure the sensor you buy has the pigtail with it. I think mine was like $20 shipped. I believe the sensor is a therm-istor (thermal resistor) and is a simple two wire and does not require a 12volt power source.
The Haltech came in today but had a broken aux plug/ connector. I called conceptz and they called Haltech to sort out a solution.
Hopefully they will send me a new one.
the ecu was on top of the connector and cd. To the right was the rest of the goodies. The connector probably moved during delivery.
Can’t wait to do the initial startup/ calibration. I’m still waiting on my torque plates from CCA racing. Their new machine was acting up is what the owner said. Once I get the plates. I’ll be posting pics of the honing and build process.
09-20-2018, 06:30 PM
#45
New Member
Thread Starter
You might want to participate in the turbo forums and ask these questions. If turbo's are cooled using the engines coolant, well, I would try to isolate them away from that scenario if possible. I new they used the engines oil and thought that's what did the cooling. Besides, aren't turbo's best hot? I cannot remember the sort of turbo that doesn't need to share the engines oil but that's the sort I was considering. They're greased instead.
I did consider a turbo, a rear mounted one. The rear would be good for me cause I'm all about a cooler engine bay, I love the sound of these rear mounted turbo's and even when my engine and transmission are built, the auto trans will only handle so much torque so I'm limited. I could swap in a manual but I'm not parting with my all wheel drive.
You might be better off saving time regarding making any brackets until you've got everything back together. I'm sure there will be 1 or 3 oem brackets that will come in handy but if you find yourself tucking this and deleting that, then those brackets can be tossed. I used one of the small deleted brackets to mount my oil catch can to the power steering bracket which I thought made for a clean install.
I did consider a turbo, a rear mounted one. The rear would be good for me cause I'm all about a cooler engine bay, I love the sound of these rear mounted turbo's and even when my engine and transmission are built, the auto trans will only handle so much torque so I'm limited. I could swap in a manual but I'm not parting with my all wheel drive.
You might be better off saving time regarding making any brackets until you've got everything back together. I'm sure there will be 1 or 3 oem brackets that will come in handy but if you find yourself tucking this and deleting that, then those brackets can be tossed. I used one of the small deleted brackets to mount my oil catch can to the power steering bracket which I thought made for a clean install.
Keeping the brackets for spares is a good idea. Since I’m still waiting on the honing plate, I’ll probably start cleaning up my harness a bit. Thanks for the tip.
Its nice to have that awd control in the rain no? When my tires start to get bald and I take the off ramps on the interstate it really gives me a good adrenaline rush( of fear ) when the back starts to slide out. I bet you rarely experience that moment of terror. it must be fun to launch it also.
Time is really not on my side. I only have 3 weeks left to get the car going if I want to track it by zcon z nationals. I may just end up flying there for the weekend if things don’t pan out. I am really looking forward to meeting some fellow vq enthusiasts. It brings me back to my younger days. when we’d all meet up to drag race out on the state line. I must be going through a mid life crisis. Lol!
What clutch system are you guys running? Multi plate or single ? Single plate 6 pucks have a max holding torque of about 550-600 lbs right?
Im running 6 puck. So I’ll be limited to 550-600 daily.
09-20-2018, 07:02 PM
#47
New Member
Regarding wire tucking, I've got a lot on my thread. I think cux350z lost a lot of photos on his thread due to photobuckets stingy asses. It's much easier on the Z as you shouldn't have to extend any wires. I had to extend damn near 1/2 of them. Great time to do it with the engine out.
The old FX doesn't see much rain these days. I do what I can to avoid driving in it now that I've got renewed interest in it. It is fun though. I'll power slide around corners in a similar fashion to rwd drifting and with a good feeling of control. The only time this FX will spin all 4 is break torquing at a light on wet pavement
. I'm easily amused.
I guess it depends on what's important. Rush and get the car done in 3 weeks to make it or take your time and plan on a solid showing next year when you've also had time to test & tune. You could rush it, have a blast then get back into it and finish what you couldn't afterwards.
The old FX doesn't see much rain these days. I do what I can to avoid driving in it now that I've got renewed interest in it. It is fun though. I'll power slide around corners in a similar fashion to rwd drifting and with a good feeling of control. The only time this FX will spin all 4 is break torquing at a light on wet pavement
. I'm easily amused.I guess it depends on what's important. Rush and get the car done in 3 weeks to make it or take your time and plan on a solid showing next year when you've also had time to test & tune. You could rush it, have a blast then get back into it and finish what you couldn't afterwards.
10-07-2018, 09:45 AM
#48
New Member
Thread Starter
<div style="text-align:left;">I may end up flying there for the short weekend. Friday and Saturday. <br />The block is getting honed and balanced so I don’t think it’ll be done. The guy said 2 more weeks. So it’ll be the week of zcon z nationals. I might just try to finish it. Take some days off from work and just do drugs to stay up( caffeine ) <br />I’m working at the machine shop on saturdays now. The man is 76 years old and has no kids. So all his old knowledge with go with him when he passes. He is a mentor to me. That’s why I’ve been posting my heads and manifolds based on his guidance. I would like to learn how he balances the engine. <br /><br /></div>
10-07-2018, 09:47 AM
#49
New Member
Thread Starter
Mr. Pendarvis my mentor. Picture this 76 year old man tuning Haltech EMS on a laptop. Yeah. He adapted from carbs to efi. The guy is a madman. I’m trying to learn everything I can on saturdays when I’m helping him.
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onevq35de (10-07-2018)
10-07-2018, 10:29 AM
#50
New Member
The look on his face tell's me he know's his stuff and if one were to question his authority, 
11-20-2018, 06:15 AM
#51
New Member
Thread Starter
Update. Just got the block back from machine shop and I started to reassemble. Now I hit another road block. My exhaust valves are too corroded to reuse. So I ordered some super tech valves with bc springs and retainers. . It seems like as soon as I get close to something , another problem pops up. Sheesh.
11-20-2018, 07:03 AM
#52
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
were you expecting anything different? the journey is the reward!
12-08-2018, 11:31 AM
#53
New Member
Thread Starter
That’s true. It’s not the destination, it’s the journey.
Actually working on it, when I have the parts, is our therapy.
Yea. He is an old grumpy bastard and I love him like a father.
I’m putting the engine back together now. I rechecked the torques on the girdle and the rod bolts. It was a little under but now it’s all good.
My wife said I have 3 weeks to get the car running because we just got another house. (With a better garage.) so I used that as leverage. “Hey I can’t get it going without billet oil pump gears etc. “ lol worked like a charm.
I keep trying to upload pics but it just erases everything I typed. I’ll keep trying
Actually working on it, when I have the parts, is our therapy.
I’m putting the engine back together now. I rechecked the torques on the girdle and the rod bolts. It was a little under but now it’s all good.
My wife said I have 3 weeks to get the car running because we just got another house. (With a better garage.) so I used that as leverage. “Hey I can’t get it going without billet oil pump gears etc. “ lol worked like a charm.
I keep trying to upload pics but it just erases everything I typed. I’ll keep trying
12-08-2018, 11:37 AM
#54
New Member
I save all my worthy-to-save pics on onedrive (word online). They're downloaded to my laptop and make posting them easy, I never could understand why people used photosuckit and I still don't know, nor do I care why people are paying $ to use it. 
Once saved, on this site I use the 2 mountain icon to the left of the smiley face on the menu strip below "Quick reply" in the red bar.
Once saved, on this site I use the 2 mountain icon to the left of the smiley face on the menu strip below "Quick reply" in the red bar.
Last edited by onevq35de; 12-08-2018 at 11:39 AM.
12-08-2018, 11:39 AM
#55
New Member
Thread Starter
I ended up reusing the HG After I used them to hone the block. So I coated it with copper spray per original gangster mentor.
Last edited by Tran251; 12-08-2018 at 11:46 AM. Reason: The lathe picture is cut in half for some reason.
12-08-2018, 11:43 AM
#56
New Member
Thread Starter
So far. Adjusting the valve lash took the longest. After the valve job. The valves were too long and I didn’t want to shave the stems so I shaved the lifters. Took me 6 hours on a Saturday at my work. It was easier on the lathe because I can see how much I’m actually cutting.
12-08-2018, 11:49 AM
#57
New Member
Thread Starter
The way I’m torquing the headstuds is a technique I heard from a guy a met at zcon znationals. His engine was built by So**. the build sheet said that they broke down the procedure to 5 stages and spanned it out an entire month. This allowed it to settle I guess. I’m not gonna span for a month. Maybe a week. Lol too little time. So much to do.
12-09-2018, 01:39 PM
#58
New Member
Thread Starter
I save all my worthy-to-save pics on onedrive (word online). They're downloaded to my laptop and make posting them easy, I never could understand why people used photosuckit and I still don't know, nor do I care why people are paying $ to use it.
Once saved, on this site I use the 2 mountain icon to the left of the smiley face on the menu strip below "Quick reply" in the red bar.
Once saved, on this site I use the 2 mountain icon to the left of the smiley face on the menu strip below "Quick reply" in the red bar.
thats a good tip. I’ll start using my **** laptop and see if that will help.
Hows the vq holding up? Are you going to any meets next year?
12-10-2018, 07:14 AM
#59
New Member
Other than a slipping drive belt that's now a wee bit too short, it's all good. Heading to a drag strip that's at sea level soon hopefully.