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Had to shave the mounts a little on each side to make it fit. If u look closely to the wastegate mounts and pushrod. You will see that I repositioned them to under the manifold to clear the frame rails. It’s the same setup as the original jwt only remade for these.
I couldn’t fit any of the turbo inlet pipes so I ended up using the mishimoto silicone ducts. Waiting on new fuel rails from cjm. Took 3 weeks due to thier anodizing machine breaking. Got it overnighted. Sorry for late updates. We ended up moving to the new house but my car is still at the old house. Lol realtors been walking through the empty house and seeing me in the garage. Lol!!
I haven't gone back to the track yet. Hopefully this weekend if the weather is good and this ****ing flu pisses off. I've used a cheap ($125) tool called Scangauge 2 which plugs into the computer ad tells me everything from coolant temps to 0-60 or 60-0, checks current & pending codes, clears'em, etc. It's 1/10th off 0-60 and 2/10ths off in the 1/4. I have pics somewhere of my track time slips while at the strip along side the scangauge. Last time, I ran 3 14.6 runs. After correcting for d.a., @ 1,700 alt, 14.3. On the street I've gotten several 13.8 runs which equate to a 14 flat and many 0-60 in 5.1 seconds.
If this were a G or Z, I'd but it's a fat-assed AWD FX35 that ran somewhere in the mid 15's stock. It's light-years faster than any other naturally aspirated one before it and I still get a kick out of that.
I think an auto in a Z would d the best, followed by a G then an FX, weight being the biggest factor. A RWD Single T FX cannot seem to handle more than 425 ft lbs for too long before the trans starts to slip. If supercharged, it'll take much more power. Too much tq down low with the T's. An AWD G or FX might fair slightly better or worse. The transfer case is strong but the added traction might apply too much shock on launch. Not sure.
Engines looking great Tran!
I couldn’t fit any of the turbo inlet pipes so I ended up using the mishimoto silicone ducts. Waiting on new fuel rails from cjm. Took 3 weeks due to thier anodizing machine breaking. Got it overnighted. Sorry for late updates. We ended up moving to the new house but my car is still at the old house. Lol realtors been walking through the empty house and seeing me in the garage. Lol!!
Next time they come through say "hey chick, get your *** over here and hold this for me"
Next time they come through say "hey chick, get your *** over here and hold this for me"
Lol! this last few weeks have been crazy. Haven’t really had time to check on the community.
We moved into the new house and I can’t make it up the driveway. So I gotta raise my car to stock height just to park it at home. Got the car to idle and run pretty smooth.
At first I couldn’t get it started. So, after chasing my tail for a few days, I called Haltech and they fixed my issue. Turns out it was an ecu edge setting that they had to program into the firmware. After they did that, it cranked first try. I nearly broke into tears. Lol
i wish there was a stronger vq community nearby. I’d really like to see some of the builds in person so I can take note on how to tuck etc. Pictures don’t really do me justice.
nice work on the exhaust - really came out! What product did you use?
Haltech is goofy like that sometimes … the only issue I had was my VTC not activating but it wasn't that often - happy it turned out alright.
Hows the build coming along otherwise?
Blue magic metal polish is what i used.(from Walmart)
i welded an additional resonator onto the Apexi exhaust because it was too loud. I’m considering going back to stock from y pipe back and welding boost cutouts at the y pipe.
The build is back on standby. Currently rebuilding the turbos with new bearing assemblies and larger turbine housings per g-pop shop recommendation.
The Haltech pnp was working fine but now that you mention it, the vtc control is also intermittent. Sometimes it’ll work sometimes it won’t. Did you find a fix for it? Maybe my vtc solenoid is too old?
Thanks man. I see you’re viet too
where’re you from?
The turbos haven’t came back from OCD works yet. After I sent them out when I got them back from gpopshop, it’s been 4 weeks. Maybe they’ve been really busy.
The new setup are 2 Garrett gtx3076r with eBay 7 by 7 comp wheels. I’ll sell old China chargers really cheap. Whenever I get my lazy *** to pull the engine again to remove the damm things.
Thanks man. I see you’re viet too
where’re you from?
The turbos haven’t came back from OCD works yet. After I sent them out when I got them back from gpopshop, it’s been 4 weeks. Maybe they’ve been really busy.
The new setup are 2 Garrett gtx3076r with eBay 7 by 7 comp wheels. I’ll sell old China chargers really cheap. Whenever I get my lazy *** to pull the engine again to remove the damm things.
Patience! They'll be back soon enough. Are there other things that you can get caught up on?
It’s been about 2 months since I last drove the car and I miss the fun.
I should be patient.
True. I’ll be installing the brakes in the meantime. Got reconditioned akebono f&r sets really cheap from powerstop.
I know I should be more patient but I removed the oil feed lines off the turbo and realized that I don’t have the replacement turbos yet and I have the car parked under a canopy. So I stopped myself from removing the engine to remove the turbos.
When u have the Haltech. Do you remember how many degrees of retard you put for the anti lag launch? Just asking for reference. Bealjk.
My haltech didn't have anti-lag nor launch as it was relatively old.
The link has it but I haven't messed with it. I don't intend to use anti-lag as I think it's too hard on the turbo and headers. My headers probably can take the abuse as they are .11" wall thickness and I really laid into them when welding but most aftermarket headers are 1/16" / 16ga wall and you're asking for cracked welds at that point (just my opinion).
The best thing I can say is to look into High Performance Academy as they have a course on launch control and they probably have webinars on it as well.
Thanks James. I booked a tubing session at z1 in November. Hopefully they’ll set it for me. I’m afraid to blow my hard work over a wrong number. I’d like to watch them tune but they said I have to drop my car off for a week due to my mod list. Crazy. It’s hard trusting someone with my car especially with all I’ve invested in it.
Comparison to the Garrett chargers that went in. They sound like an 18wheeler. Got the clutch installed and master cylinder set. The pedal effort isn’t that much difference with the z1 clutch. I had to lift the rear completely and set the rod to the point where the wheels will not spin with the clutch engaged. Runs like a champ. Still breaking it in though. How do I post videos here? Does it have to be only YouTube links? I have a mild acceleration vid. I Didn’t want to hit it full throttle yet cause the clutch is still being broken in.
Hit an issue. The car would hesitate once in a while. Not even hitting boost yet and the car would buck ever so slightly. No knock signals. Changed the coils. Drove nice. Buck once in a while again. Went home checked logs. No change. Ohm out injectors, all within .1 ohm. Removed vvt solenoids cleaned and checked stroke with a 9v battery. Both move fine. No debris in the screens. No codes. . It’s intermittent.
The throttle signals are linear like they should be. Lamda is spot on based on Haltech logs.
I just came back from a light cruise and logged the cam signals vs actual. Anyone care to take a look?
ill post as soon as I figure out how to screen shot a computer. Might just take a picture.
01-10-2019, 08:11 AM
but it's a fat-assed AWD FX35 that ran somewhere in the mid 15's stock. It's light-years faster than any other naturally aspirated one before it and I still get a kick out of that.
