CFAUVEL

NOTE: the car has 205K miles, but in really good shape.

ohoh got this code today.

start the car and a light I have never seen before "AT Check" blinked at me about 4 times.

The symptom today was very hard shift from 1-2 and 2-3....turned right around and drove the 350z instead.

Read up that P1716 is the Turbine Revolution Sensor which appears to be on the valve body.

Anyone have experience with this fault, expected price to repair?

813_350Z

You MAY be able to repair this yourself.

These sensors are located on the valve body in your transmission. You have two of these sensors, TSS2 is located closest to the front of the vehicle. TSS1 is located behind it. Both read different information. The TCM uses this information collectively to determine transmission gear ratio and converter clutch slip.

The best case scenario for this fault is that you may just have a crack in the circuit board of your TCM that connects to these sensors. You can drain the trans, drop the valve body, unbolt the TCM, crack it open, resolder the connection, and pray for the best. Worst case scenario is that you have a stuck valve or a faulty solenoid. If it is the same situation as the Z, Nissan does not sell the solenoid by itself. Instead you will have to purchase a whole new valve body, which is not cheap.

CFAUVEL

OMG you can't buy the sensors themselves?!?! WTH!?!

Thanks for the reply though :-(

The cheapest valve body I found so far is $1100

813_350Z

If you comfortable with your ability to follow direction and pay attention to detail and confident enough to do your own work, here is a link to a thread I recently made regarding valve body / TCM removal.

https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-...id-repair.html

The video at the bottom was EXCELLENT!! when I did my repair. Personally, I'd take it apart and check for a broken circuit. If the solenoid is good and it is in fact a broken circuit in the TCM, you would then need to buy a new TCM. I was looking at roughly $1,800 for a new TCM and "reflash" (I doubt it needed that but w/e).

The video lead me through and it only cost me $100 for new transmission fluid which will be worth it if you can repair it and it's time to change your trans fluid anyway.

CFAUVEL

oh yeah I can SO do that....was worried there would be some ball bearings in various channels.

took it to a guy yesterday, and they managed to get a few more codes, but the issue didn't appear for them. They needed the problem to be persistent. The dropped the pan and looked at the connections for the two sensors and they said they looked good...god I'm scared to see how much this will be for this.

They said that if it happens again to just turn off the engine and that should clear the codes enough to get it out of Limp Mode.

UPDATE: got it back and the following code were captured P1815 and P0705 along with the P1716

CFAUVEL

Ok did some more research on the two new codes and don't believe they are related to the symptoms at hand

BTW the transmission is shifting perfectly right now, drove it for several hrs after getting it back and no issues....knock on wood.

P0705 is the neutral safety switch
P1815 is the manual shift switch and suspect there is nothing with that either . We don't usually play with manual shifting, and when I did it was months ago.

Now it is possible that WHEN I was playing with manual shifting, the TCM and valve body weren't acting within specs.

As far as the real symptoms, I believe the mechanic playing with the sensors' connecters and replacing fluid might have had a positive affect.

we'll see.

CFAUVEL

UPDATE: GGGGGRRRRRRR....well since getting the car back from the shop. We had an issue with cylinder 1 misfire which turned out to be the coil....replaced the 5 older coils (coil #3 was replaced last month with OEM coil). The 5 new ones were also oem hitachi. Reading the codes that the misfire threw I see the 1716 again.

The 1716 code has popped a few times since getting the car back, but not the super hard shift symptom and the AT CHECK light hasn't flashed at us again (yet).

Seems to kick on once a week, I reset it after each time

CFAUVEL

UPDATE: GGGGGRRRRRR
the hard shifting is most prevalent at cold start upi...after a while it is gone and behaves appropriately
Just this week, the service engine light came on along with the AT CHECK light....it was really shifting hard. Restarted the car at the light and it started behaving nicely for the remainder of the drive.

NOTE: when the transmission was acting above, I tested using the manual shift and it just stayed in D...when it started behaving proper and switched to manual mode it reflected the correct gear (ie 1,2,3,4 or 5...not D)

NOTE TOO: did a long trip 245 miles each way and had NO issues just days prior to above.

found a remanufacturer for the valve body for $740....not sure if it includes new sensors though

CFAUVEL

UPDATE: After seeing numerous videos of the dismantling of the auto trans, I can see that more than likely the two speed sensors in question (Turbine Revolution Sensor, and don't know what the other is called) is actually PART of the TCM (two magnetic cylinders that protrude through the case towards the internals) , there is another speed sensor at the tail shaft that you can't seem to get to without removing the tail's housing (seriously?!)...the latter sensor is disconnected from the valve body if you are dropping the valve body.

I am 99% sure that the TCM on valve body is the issue. When the trans warms up it shifts perfectly. Which tells me the solenoids are fine, and since the speed sensors are ON the tcm, I lean to THAT being the issue.

I am 25% sure that is something wrong with the manual shift selector switch (I think they call it the Transmission Range Selector...for the life of me I can't find that part number or location), but suspect of that as when the trans runs fine the indicator on the dash properly displays the gear ....be it D or (1,2,3,4,5). If I knew where this switch was I might replace that first...just to see if THAT was the problem after all.

There is a good chance that it is a cracked circuit wire under the cover of the tcm...but doubt it.....and if it were, not sure I'd risk soldering what I think is a crack, putting the valve body back and find out that I STILL need to buy a remanufactured valve body.

So here I am...hoping someone tells me where that Trans Range Selector switch is and if there is another switch that senses that you are Manually shifting, I'm hoping it is the same switch.

before I buy a a new-to-me valve body.

CFAUVEL

UPDATE:
Spoke with Ashley at https://streetsmarttransmission.com/...a remanufactured Valve Body , and tested on their simulator will be $740.
We spoke for a while and she said that it sounded like two things that would do the P1716...a short in the tcm or the sensor being too far away from the drum it is sensing.
I told her that it is intermittent and during a cold motor, once warmed up the problem goes away. She said that it DEFINITELY sounded like the sensor is just far enough away from the drum when cold to not read correctly.

I don't have the valve body in front of me to tell, but she stated that the sensor should protrude out of the plastic part of the tcm the thickness of two nickels.

So step one is going to be dropping the valve body and give it a look ...ugh I hate doing this without a car lift.

813_350Z

If it makes you feel any better, this is an easier job than replacing the motor mounts without pulling the engine and removing the exhaust manifold like I just did! 😁 I'd do this any day.

Just take your time and be sure all plugs are disconnected before letting it drop to avoid pulling any thing out of place.

CFAUVEL

when you did it , did you remove the large c-clip on the big external plug (right side of tranny) and push that large plug through the trans' housing, or did you unplug the two smaller CAN plugs that go FROM this large plug to the TCM, whilst holding the valve body?

813_350Z

I unplugged the two smaller plugs and I believe there was one other, then just lowered the VB out.

CFAUVEL

Still haven't got around to dropping the valve body, but have been warming up the engine for about 5 minutes every morning. Doing that seems to work...haven't had the symptom or code since doing that.

813_350Z

It is probably causing connectors to expand and connect. It should buy you time until you can drop the VB.

Rainy

The valve body takes like 20 minutes to take out of these cars. Really easy. I have an 03 valve body but unfortunately it wont work in your 05. I've also got a 05 coupe. I pulled the VB for the solenoids in case I needed them, didnt end up using them so I've got the complete vb and solenoids all OEM from a 67xxx mile 03 g35 5at coupe.

If anything I have can be of help PM me

CFAUVEL

resurrecting this thread... Rainy do you still have the 03 VB with TCM attached? If so can you take photos of the two sensors for measuring the turbine revolutions? Then a bit of a more favor actually take off the tcm to see how the sensors are mounted into the plastic cover? I don't know if the sensors are bolted to the VB or attached to the plastic cover of the TCM so would like to see.

Someone on another site said the sensors are replaceable, but before I go that route I want to see how they are attached.

:-)

CFAUVEL

Just a little update.
I went and bought a remanufactured Valve Body from https://streetsmarttransmission.com/...5a-valve-body/

As Rainy said it IS pretty easy to do....the fluid is the biggest PITA though. I installed it in January 2021 and it has been running fine until November 2021, where when cold, the shifts are hard from 1 to 2 to 3...with the transition from 2 to 3 being the hardest.
Once warmed up all is good. I am not getting any codes like before.

I'm going to try to remove about 5 quarts of fluid with fresh fluid this xmas break and see if that helps...if not...I guess I'll reach out to the remanufacturer as it has a 3 year warranty.

CFAUVEL

Probably the final update:
On the way down to Miami to help my mother who fell ill (not covid) we experienced the hard shifts as before, the car was cold, when we got on I-75 heading south it jumped out of gear, with no lights. Not trusting to drive 250 miles we turned around and parked it.

Last week I took it to the transmission shop that deals with the valve body repair shop, from which I bought the valve body. Ended up having them rebuild the transmission to the tune of $3185 including labor.

Sadly there is a Bank 1 camshaft sensor issue that popped up so STILL not driveable for the MRS. It got her home, but once I returned from Miami for a conjugal visit, it stalled on me with quite an effort to restart.

The shop wanted $350 to replace the sensor...I declined...the part is on its way, but who knows when I'll be able to get back home to install it...thankfully bank 1 is the passenger side, which is the easier of the two.

The car has 230K miles on it, but still looks really good, thus we decided to fix it rather than spend 3x for a newer used G35 with less miles, but unknown issues.

CFAUVEL

UPDATE: Came home for the weekend and was able to replace the passenger camshaft position sensor and the engine is running well again.

The SLIP and VDC OFF light stayed on even though the engine was running well. I remember reading that sometimes the level sensor in the Master Cylinder gets wonky. so added a little more fluid, even though it was at MAX. Had a codes P1212/C1132, I cleared them. I'm hoping that these popped up during the transmission removal and replacement, as these codes were not present before. The MRS will be driving the car today we'll see if the SLIP and VDC OFF light comes back on....hoping it won't