N/A mods
07-20-2005, 03:19 PM
#41
yeah I think that article is really pretty telling. It said the FI cars were 1 sec faster around the track than the stock Z and that the Z with a few key NA mods was faster then them by 1 full second - so 2 sec faster than a stock Z.
I really wish SPEED said screw it and just benchmarked the NA Z anyway. Who doesn't want to know how it'd do? Race tires or not, I'd still like to know how it does. It's a car comparison afterall. I for one would like to know just how much of a measureable difference race tires make
The FI 1/4 times seem to kinda suck in comparison to stock - but they WERE on street tires and some of them were only running 275 rears. Half of them did not have an LSD. But seems like a lot of people get quite a bit faster times than those with FI. Usually 12.3-12.5 seems doable with a TT kit and street tires. The greddy car in that article was one of the worst cars. It had tons of power, but no where near the type of tires and setup it should have had to make all that power usable.
Since the driver was able to get consistent lap times within .37 sec, you know he wasn't messing around with sloppy driving. Who knows, maybe he's just not used to FI power and isn't good at controlling it, but that seems doubtful to me since he is a pro. So what I'm saying here is I don't think the article is a BS article really, but is actually really interesting to read.
The NA car wasn't benchmarked. The only numbers we have on the NA car at the end was that it has the 3.9 final drive, tilton clutch, Nismo exhaust, nismo LSD, nismo suspension, nismo wheels, and 275 hoosier racing tires and that's it - at least that's all the article mentioned. It didn't mention if his car is stripped down at all - racing seats etc or not.
He had NO engine power adders whatsoever other than the exhaust.
He did not have: headers, pulley, cats, plenum, cams, or intake. So on a dyno, you can expect him to put down like 5-6 more whp than stock.
The wildcard is the tires. Just how much are the tires contributing to his lap time we'll never know, but I'm sure it's helping big time.
Still, they were 275 tires. A lot of hardcore NA people go wider than that to 285 or 295's and don't skimp on the brand of street tire they use - BFG KD's or Michellin PS2's etc A sticky 295 tire still won't compete with a 275 racing tire though
And again the hardcore NA people are getting rollbars/rollcages which by nature add more traction to the rear via weight.
who knows how his car would have fared if he had 40-50 more whp and downgraded to wider street tires. My guess would be he'd be about the same. He'd lose cornering speed, but make up for it in straight line speed.
Thing is, the NA car had a million ways it could have been improved but I'm not sure how the FI Axis car could have been improved other than a better suspension or some more weight lost in the front somehow maybe?
I really wish SPEED said screw it and just benchmarked the NA Z anyway. Who doesn't want to know how it'd do? Race tires or not, I'd still like to know how it does. It's a car comparison afterall. I for one would like to know just how much of a measureable difference race tires make
The FI 1/4 times seem to kinda suck in comparison to stock - but they WERE on street tires and some of them were only running 275 rears. Half of them did not have an LSD. But seems like a lot of people get quite a bit faster times than those with FI. Usually 12.3-12.5 seems doable with a TT kit and street tires. The greddy car in that article was one of the worst cars. It had tons of power, but no where near the type of tires and setup it should have had to make all that power usable.
Since the driver was able to get consistent lap times within .37 sec, you know he wasn't messing around with sloppy driving. Who knows, maybe he's just not used to FI power and isn't good at controlling it, but that seems doubtful to me since he is a pro. So what I'm saying here is I don't think the article is a BS article really, but is actually really interesting to read.
The NA car wasn't benchmarked. The only numbers we have on the NA car at the end was that it has the 3.9 final drive, tilton clutch, Nismo exhaust, nismo LSD, nismo suspension, nismo wheels, and 275 hoosier racing tires and that's it - at least that's all the article mentioned. It didn't mention if his car is stripped down at all - racing seats etc or not.
He had NO engine power adders whatsoever other than the exhaust.
He did not have: headers, pulley, cats, plenum, cams, or intake. So on a dyno, you can expect him to put down like 5-6 more whp than stock.
The wildcard is the tires. Just how much are the tires contributing to his lap time we'll never know, but I'm sure it's helping big time.
Still, they were 275 tires. A lot of hardcore NA people go wider than that to 285 or 295's and don't skimp on the brand of street tire they use - BFG KD's or Michellin PS2's etc A sticky 295 tire still won't compete with a 275 racing tire though
And again the hardcore NA people are getting rollbars/rollcages which by nature add more traction to the rear via weight.
who knows how his car would have fared if he had 40-50 more whp and downgraded to wider street tires. My guess would be he'd be about the same. He'd lose cornering speed, but make up for it in straight line speed.
Thing is, the NA car had a million ways it could have been improved but I'm not sure how the FI Axis car could have been improved other than a better suspension or some more weight lost in the front somehow maybe?
Last edited by sentry65; 07-20-2005 at 03:55 PM.
07-22-2005, 03:37 PM
#43
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OK, heh heh. I will throw in my .02 here.
I have owned moderately to heavily modified: Twin Turbo Supra, Subaru WRX, Mitusibshi Evolution, Mitsubishi Eclipse and Twin Turbo 350Z. I also used to tune these and other cars for a living, so I have some decent experience on the subject. I also have performance driving experience.
The TT 350Z will easily eat N/A Z's in a straight line; no doubt about it. In the hands of the wrong drivers, track times can go either way. In the hands of the right drivers, a regular TT car (not completely set up) will not yield faster times.
If you want greatest bang for buck to go fast, TT guys, you have the wrong car anyways. Sorry but it's the truth. An STi or EVO can go faster for cheaper without touching the motor.
The TT Z makes pretty good power but unless you want a ticking timebomb, you don't crank the boost way up and you end up with 370~400 whp unless you add more mods and money. To go farther, you need alot of things to rebalance the car and make it reasonably reliable, etc.
The N/A Z is about being balanced (like others said) and enjoyable at the TRACK. It isn't for drag racing and never was. It's all about GRACE; thus the name Fairlady. Turbo 350's are anything but graceful; more like mildly rough and pretty quick. I wouldn't call it brutal without the motor build and whatnot, but I am jaded when it comes to turbo power. It takes around 450+ ATW to even open my eyes on pump gas.
I took the turbos off of my Z but it didn't have anything to do with problems; more along the lines of how much money and maintenance I wanted in my Z anymore.
As soon as you put the turbo kit on, your shopping list expands to better fuel system, wider tires, better brakes, new clutch and flywheel, etc. etc. This is simply to return the car to a point where it can handle what it has; let alone add more power. A twin kit at spring pressure isn't a ticking time bomb. It simply MUST be tuned right. I am astounded at the number of ppl on here who aren't doing that, however. Once you do, however, be ready for tires and clutch at the bare minimum beyond a fully setup turbo kit. Brakes would be nice if you want to continue to be able to stop the car, too.
Trust me the stockers won't last long.
I am currently playing with N/A mods. It makes a fun twisty car and it sounds nice. It isn't terribly fast, but fast enough for me or the track and I don't have to worry about stuff wearing out fast (except those brakes). Kinda reminds me of M3's all around performance, etc. <shrug>
Mark
I have owned moderately to heavily modified: Twin Turbo Supra, Subaru WRX, Mitusibshi Evolution, Mitsubishi Eclipse and Twin Turbo 350Z. I also used to tune these and other cars for a living, so I have some decent experience on the subject. I also have performance driving experience.
The TT 350Z will easily eat N/A Z's in a straight line; no doubt about it. In the hands of the wrong drivers, track times can go either way. In the hands of the right drivers, a regular TT car (not completely set up) will not yield faster times.
If you want greatest bang for buck to go fast, TT guys, you have the wrong car anyways. Sorry but it's the truth. An STi or EVO can go faster for cheaper without touching the motor.
The TT Z makes pretty good power but unless you want a ticking timebomb, you don't crank the boost way up and you end up with 370~400 whp unless you add more mods and money. To go farther, you need alot of things to rebalance the car and make it reasonably reliable, etc.
The N/A Z is about being balanced (like others said) and enjoyable at the TRACK. It isn't for drag racing and never was. It's all about GRACE; thus the name Fairlady. Turbo 350's are anything but graceful; more like mildly rough and pretty quick. I wouldn't call it brutal without the motor build and whatnot, but I am jaded when it comes to turbo power. It takes around 450+ ATW to even open my eyes on pump gas.
I took the turbos off of my Z but it didn't have anything to do with problems; more along the lines of how much money and maintenance I wanted in my Z anymore.
As soon as you put the turbo kit on, your shopping list expands to better fuel system, wider tires, better brakes, new clutch and flywheel, etc. etc. This is simply to return the car to a point where it can handle what it has; let alone add more power. A twin kit at spring pressure isn't a ticking time bomb. It simply MUST be tuned right. I am astounded at the number of ppl on here who aren't doing that, however. Once you do, however, be ready for tires and clutch at the bare minimum beyond a fully setup turbo kit. Brakes would be nice if you want to continue to be able to stop the car, too.
Trust me the stockers won't last long.I am currently playing with N/A mods. It makes a fun twisty car and it sounds nice. It isn't terribly fast, but fast enough for me or the track and I don't have to worry about stuff wearing out fast (except those brakes). Kinda reminds me of M3's all around performance, etc. <shrug>
Mark
07-23-2005, 04:16 AM
#44
Registered User
Originally Posted by QuantumZ
OK, heh heh. I will throw in my .02 here.
I have owned moderately to heavily modified: Twin Turbo Supra, Subaru WRX, Mitusibshi Evolution, Mitsubishi Eclipse and Twin Turbo 350Z. I also used to tune these and other cars for a living, so I have some decent experience on the subject. I also have performance driving experience.
The TT 350Z will easily eat N/A Z's in a straight line; no doubt about it. In the hands of the wrong drivers, track times can go either way. In the hands of the right drivers, a regular TT car (not completely set up) will not yield faster times.
If you want greatest bang for buck to go fast, TT guys, you have the wrong car anyways. Sorry but it's the truth. An STi or EVO can go faster for cheaper without touching the motor.
The TT Z makes pretty good power but unless you want a ticking timebomb, you don't crank the boost way up and you end up with 370~400 whp unless you add more mods and money. To go farther, you need alot of things to rebalance the car and make it reasonably reliable, etc.
The N/A Z is about being balanced (like others said) and enjoyable at the TRACK. It isn't for drag racing and never was. It's all about GRACE; thus the name Fairlady. Turbo 350's are anything but graceful; more like mildly rough and pretty quick. I wouldn't call it brutal without the motor build and whatnot, but I am jaded when it comes to turbo power. It takes around 450+ ATW to even open my eyes on pump gas.
I took the turbos off of my Z but it didn't have anything to do with problems; more along the lines of how much money and maintenance I wanted in my Z anymore.
As soon as you put the turbo kit on, your shopping list expands to better fuel system, wider tires, better brakes, new clutch and flywheel, etc. etc. This is simply to return the car to a point where it can handle what it has; let alone add more power. A twin kit at spring pressure isn't a ticking time bomb. It simply MUST be tuned right. I am astounded at the number of ppl on here who aren't doing that, however. Once you do, however, be ready for tires and clutch at the bare minimum beyond a fully setup turbo kit. Brakes would be nice if you want to continue to be able to stop the car, too. Trust me the stockers won't last long.
I am currently playing with N/A mods. It makes a fun twisty car and it sounds nice. It isn't terribly fast, but fast enough for me or the track and I don't have to worry about stuff wearing out fast (except those brakes). Kinda reminds me of M3's all around performance, etc. <shrug>
Mark
I have owned moderately to heavily modified: Twin Turbo Supra, Subaru WRX, Mitusibshi Evolution, Mitsubishi Eclipse and Twin Turbo 350Z. I also used to tune these and other cars for a living, so I have some decent experience on the subject. I also have performance driving experience.
The TT 350Z will easily eat N/A Z's in a straight line; no doubt about it. In the hands of the wrong drivers, track times can go either way. In the hands of the right drivers, a regular TT car (not completely set up) will not yield faster times.
If you want greatest bang for buck to go fast, TT guys, you have the wrong car anyways. Sorry but it's the truth. An STi or EVO can go faster for cheaper without touching the motor.
The TT Z makes pretty good power but unless you want a ticking timebomb, you don't crank the boost way up and you end up with 370~400 whp unless you add more mods and money. To go farther, you need alot of things to rebalance the car and make it reasonably reliable, etc.
The N/A Z is about being balanced (like others said) and enjoyable at the TRACK. It isn't for drag racing and never was. It's all about GRACE; thus the name Fairlady. Turbo 350's are anything but graceful; more like mildly rough and pretty quick. I wouldn't call it brutal without the motor build and whatnot, but I am jaded when it comes to turbo power. It takes around 450+ ATW to even open my eyes on pump gas.
I took the turbos off of my Z but it didn't have anything to do with problems; more along the lines of how much money and maintenance I wanted in my Z anymore.
As soon as you put the turbo kit on, your shopping list expands to better fuel system, wider tires, better brakes, new clutch and flywheel, etc. etc. This is simply to return the car to a point where it can handle what it has; let alone add more power. A twin kit at spring pressure isn't a ticking time bomb. It simply MUST be tuned right. I am astounded at the number of ppl on here who aren't doing that, however. Once you do, however, be ready for tires and clutch at the bare minimum beyond a fully setup turbo kit. Brakes would be nice if you want to continue to be able to stop the car, too.
Trust me the stockers won't last long.I am currently playing with N/A mods. It makes a fun twisty car and it sounds nice. It isn't terribly fast, but fast enough for me or the track and I don't have to worry about stuff wearing out fast (except those brakes). Kinda reminds me of M3's all around performance, etc. <shrug>
Mark
Mark,
Exactly what I've been saying. Couldn't agree with you more. I too have owned several highly modded cars, and after having an FI system on my Z, and removing it, also concluded that this car's purpose is better suited without it.
In the end, modding is about HAVING FUN. Do whatever makes the car more fun for you, the owner. Just know all the risks and hassles as well as the benefits of what you are getting into, so the final outcome is, in fact, enjoyable, and not a PITA.
07-23-2005, 04:39 AM
#45
Originally Posted by QuantumZ
OK, heh heh. I will throw in my .02 here.
I have owned moderately to heavily modified: Twin Turbo Supra, Subaru WRX, Mitusibshi Evolution, Mitsubishi Eclipse and Twin Turbo 350Z. I also used to tune these and other cars for a living, so I have some decent experience on the subject. I also have performance driving experience.
The TT 350Z will easily eat N/A Z's in a straight line; no doubt about it. In the hands of the wrong drivers, track times can go either way. In the hands of the right drivers, a regular TT car (not completely set up) will not yield faster times.
If you want greatest bang for buck to go fast, TT guys, you have the wrong car anyways. Sorry but it's the truth. An STi or EVO can go faster for cheaper without touching the motor.
The TT Z makes pretty good power but unless you want a ticking timebomb, you don't crank the boost way up and you end up with 370~400 whp unless you add more mods and money. To go farther, you need alot of things to rebalance the car and make it reasonably reliable, etc.
The N/A Z is about being balanced (like others said) and enjoyable at the TRACK. It isn't for drag racing and never was. It's all about GRACE; thus the name Fairlady. Turbo 350's are anything but graceful; more like mildly rough and pretty quick. I wouldn't call it brutal without the motor build and whatnot, but I am jaded when it comes to turbo power. It takes around 450+ ATW to even open my eyes on pump gas.
I took the turbos off of my Z but it didn't have anything to do with problems; more along the lines of how much money and maintenance I wanted in my Z anymore.
As soon as you put the turbo kit on, your shopping list expands to better fuel system, wider tires, better brakes, new clutch and flywheel, etc. etc. This is simply to return the car to a point where it can handle what it has; let alone add more power. A twin kit at spring pressure isn't a ticking time bomb. It simply MUST be tuned right. I am astounded at the number of ppl on here who aren't doing that, however. Once you do, however, be ready for tires and clutch at the bare minimum beyond a fully setup turbo kit. Brakes would be nice if you want to continue to be able to stop the car, too. Trust me the stockers won't last long.
I am currently playing with N/A mods. It makes a fun twisty car and it sounds nice. It isn't terribly fast, but fast enough for me or the track and I don't have to worry about stuff wearing out fast (except those brakes). Kinda reminds me of M3's all around performance, etc. <shrug>
Mark
I have owned moderately to heavily modified: Twin Turbo Supra, Subaru WRX, Mitusibshi Evolution, Mitsubishi Eclipse and Twin Turbo 350Z. I also used to tune these and other cars for a living, so I have some decent experience on the subject. I also have performance driving experience.
The TT 350Z will easily eat N/A Z's in a straight line; no doubt about it. In the hands of the wrong drivers, track times can go either way. In the hands of the right drivers, a regular TT car (not completely set up) will not yield faster times.
If you want greatest bang for buck to go fast, TT guys, you have the wrong car anyways. Sorry but it's the truth. An STi or EVO can go faster for cheaper without touching the motor.
The TT Z makes pretty good power but unless you want a ticking timebomb, you don't crank the boost way up and you end up with 370~400 whp unless you add more mods and money. To go farther, you need alot of things to rebalance the car and make it reasonably reliable, etc.
The N/A Z is about being balanced (like others said) and enjoyable at the TRACK. It isn't for drag racing and never was. It's all about GRACE; thus the name Fairlady. Turbo 350's are anything but graceful; more like mildly rough and pretty quick. I wouldn't call it brutal without the motor build and whatnot, but I am jaded when it comes to turbo power. It takes around 450+ ATW to even open my eyes on pump gas.
I took the turbos off of my Z but it didn't have anything to do with problems; more along the lines of how much money and maintenance I wanted in my Z anymore.
As soon as you put the turbo kit on, your shopping list expands to better fuel system, wider tires, better brakes, new clutch and flywheel, etc. etc. This is simply to return the car to a point where it can handle what it has; let alone add more power. A twin kit at spring pressure isn't a ticking time bomb. It simply MUST be tuned right. I am astounded at the number of ppl on here who aren't doing that, however. Once you do, however, be ready for tires and clutch at the bare minimum beyond a fully setup turbo kit. Brakes would be nice if you want to continue to be able to stop the car, too.
Trust me the stockers won't last long.I am currently playing with N/A mods. It makes a fun twisty car and it sounds nice. It isn't terribly fast, but fast enough for me or the track and I don't have to worry about stuff wearing out fast (except those brakes). Kinda reminds me of M3's all around performance, etc. <shrug>
Mark
+1 if you want a fast car at the drag strip buy a Supra, Evo, STI.
07-23-2005, 08:05 AM
#46
Registered User
Originally Posted by Diesel350
+1 if you want a fast car at the drag strip buy a Supra, Evo, STI.
07-25-2005, 10:57 AM
#47
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Originally Posted by QuantumZ
OK, heh heh. I will throw in my .02 here.
I have owned moderately to heavily modified: Twin Turbo Supra, Subaru WRX, Mitusibshi Evolution, Mitsubishi Eclipse and Twin Turbo 350Z. I also used to tune these and other cars for a living, so I have some decent experience on the subject. I also have performance driving experience.
The TT 350Z will easily eat N/A Z's in a straight line; no doubt about it. In the hands of the wrong drivers, track times can go either way. In the hands of the right drivers, a regular TT car (not completely set up) will not yield faster times.
If you want greatest bang for buck to go fast, TT guys, you have the wrong car anyways. Sorry but it's the truth. An STi or EVO can go faster for cheaper without touching the motor.
The TT Z makes pretty good power but unless you want a ticking timebomb, you don't crank the boost way up and you end up with 370~400 whp unless you add more mods and money. To go farther, you need alot of things to rebalance the car and make it reasonably reliable, etc.
The N/A Z is about being balanced (like others said) and enjoyable at the TRACK. It isn't for drag racing and never was. It's all about GRACE; thus the name Fairlady. Turbo 350's are anything but graceful; more like mildly rough and pretty quick. I wouldn't call it brutal without the motor build and whatnot, but I am jaded when it comes to turbo power. It takes around 450+ ATW to even open my eyes on pump gas.
I took the turbos off of my Z but it didn't have anything to do with problems; more along the lines of how much money and maintenance I wanted in my Z anymore.
As soon as you put the turbo kit on, your shopping list expands to better fuel system, wider tires, better brakes, new clutch and flywheel, etc. etc. This is simply to return the car to a point where it can handle what it has; let alone add more power. A twin kit at spring pressure isn't a ticking time bomb. It simply MUST be tuned right. I am astounded at the number of ppl on here who aren't doing that, however. Once you do, however, be ready for tires and clutch at the bare minimum beyond a fully setup turbo kit. Brakes would be nice if you want to continue to be able to stop the car, too. Trust me the stockers won't last long.
I am currently playing with N/A mods. It makes a fun twisty car and it sounds nice. It isn't terribly fast, but fast enough for me or the track and I don't have to worry about stuff wearing out fast (except those brakes). Kinda reminds me of M3's all around performance, etc. <shrug>
Mark
I have owned moderately to heavily modified: Twin Turbo Supra, Subaru WRX, Mitusibshi Evolution, Mitsubishi Eclipse and Twin Turbo 350Z. I also used to tune these and other cars for a living, so I have some decent experience on the subject. I also have performance driving experience.
The TT 350Z will easily eat N/A Z's in a straight line; no doubt about it. In the hands of the wrong drivers, track times can go either way. In the hands of the right drivers, a regular TT car (not completely set up) will not yield faster times.
If you want greatest bang for buck to go fast, TT guys, you have the wrong car anyways. Sorry but it's the truth. An STi or EVO can go faster for cheaper without touching the motor.
The TT Z makes pretty good power but unless you want a ticking timebomb, you don't crank the boost way up and you end up with 370~400 whp unless you add more mods and money. To go farther, you need alot of things to rebalance the car and make it reasonably reliable, etc.
The N/A Z is about being balanced (like others said) and enjoyable at the TRACK. It isn't for drag racing and never was. It's all about GRACE; thus the name Fairlady. Turbo 350's are anything but graceful; more like mildly rough and pretty quick. I wouldn't call it brutal without the motor build and whatnot, but I am jaded when it comes to turbo power. It takes around 450+ ATW to even open my eyes on pump gas.
I took the turbos off of my Z but it didn't have anything to do with problems; more along the lines of how much money and maintenance I wanted in my Z anymore.
As soon as you put the turbo kit on, your shopping list expands to better fuel system, wider tires, better brakes, new clutch and flywheel, etc. etc. This is simply to return the car to a point where it can handle what it has; let alone add more power. A twin kit at spring pressure isn't a ticking time bomb. It simply MUST be tuned right. I am astounded at the number of ppl on here who aren't doing that, however. Once you do, however, be ready for tires and clutch at the bare minimum beyond a fully setup turbo kit. Brakes would be nice if you want to continue to be able to stop the car, too.
Trust me the stockers won't last long.I am currently playing with N/A mods. It makes a fun twisty car and it sounds nice. It isn't terribly fast, but fast enough for me or the track and I don't have to worry about stuff wearing out fast (except those brakes). Kinda reminds me of M3's all around performance, etc. <shrug>
Mark
Mark I could not agree with you more . We have been out and run with some turbo and sc Zs in the twistys and smoked them everytime. Just because you have all that HP dosn't mean you can go faster.
Oh and by the way we got the M3s handled also!
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-and-drivetrain/107732-doug-crawford-s-vs-2002-e46-m3-6sp.html
07-27-2005, 11:02 AM
#49
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Originally Posted by Anomaly460
Very imformative thread. Its funny though... on each page you see less and less pro FI guys than the page before it 
07-27-2005, 12:09 PM
#50
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Originally Posted by Speedracer
That is because as time goes by, the initial theoretical thrill of FI systems ultimately falls prey to the realities and limitations of physics on many different levels.
meaning there are alot of power hungry members on this board with more money than sense....that realize they chose the wrong platform to build a street monster after they've spent a truck load of money turning their car into a hand grenande
07-27-2005, 02:34 PM
#52
Originally Posted by sentry65
The wildcard is the tires. Just how much are the tires contributing to his lap time we'll never know, but I'm sure it's helping big time.
Still, they were 275 tires. A lot of hardcore NA people go wider than that to 285 or 295's and don't skimp on the brand of street tire they use - BFG KD's or Michellin PS2's etc A sticky 295 tire still won't compete with a 275 racing tire though
And again the hardcore NA people are getting rollbars/rollcages which by nature add more traction to the rear via weight.
who knows how his car would have fared if he had 40-50 more whp and downgraded to wider street tires. My guess would be he'd be about the same. He'd lose cornering speed, but make up for it in straight line speed.
Thing is, the NA car had a million ways it could have been improved but I'm not sure how the FI Axis car could have been improved other than a better suspension or some more weight lost in the front somehow maybe?
R-compound, 1-1.5 seconds per mile of track
Hoosiers, 1.5-2.0 seconds per mile of track
I was adding all kinds of power for the track. Now I've spent my money on learning to drive well. Guess which one lowered my track time more?? ;-)
Tilton & 3.9 & R-compound tires shed 2.5 seconds. Cost:$3800
1- 3 day racing school and 1 awesome free instructor at a recent HPDE shed 3 seconds with the potential, when I grow a sac, to shed another 3 seconds.
Cost: $3000
Very few people are realizing the stock ability of the car. Driving this car near its limits is a very satisfiing activity. Now I'm only going to add stuff when I run into the factory limits. Which seem to be the bushings and lack of adjustment in the front suspension.
Last edited by zillinois; 07-27-2005 at 03:02 PM.
07-27-2005, 02:36 PM
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Originally Posted by Anomaly460
Very imformative thread. Its funny though... on each page you see less and less pro FI guys than the page before it
Cause we get tired of seeing "I want a 400whp n/a vq" threads so we just don't post anymore.
07-27-2005, 02:41 PM
#54
cool thanks zillinois for those numbers
yeah, still not too bad when you consider all he has is an exhaust as far as hp gains
even if that means he's 1 sec slower than FI cars if he used street tires, that's not bad - but yeah he is used to his own car
otherwise it's just the tilton, gears, nismo LSD, stoptech brakes, and nismo suspension helping him out
He could gain 50-60whp if he got intake, plenum, cams, UR pulley, headers, cats, throttlebody, and ECU flash, not to mention those mods would lose him about 30 lbs of curb weight (mainly headers, cats, and pulley)
should he go with racing seats he could lose another 20-50 lbs depending on which ones he got
yeah, still not too bad when you consider all he has is an exhaust as far as hp gains
even if that means he's 1 sec slower than FI cars if he used street tires, that's not bad - but yeah he is used to his own car
otherwise it's just the tilton, gears, nismo LSD, stoptech brakes, and nismo suspension helping him out
He could gain 50-60whp if he got intake, plenum, cams, UR pulley, headers, cats, throttlebody, and ECU flash, not to mention those mods would lose him about 30 lbs of curb weight (mainly headers, cats, and pulley)
should he go with racing seats he could lose another 20-50 lbs depending on which ones he got
Last edited by sentry65; 07-27-2005 at 02:43 PM.
07-28-2005, 06:21 PM
#55
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Mark and I have talked about this many times over the years with many cars As I get older, I find myself less willing to throw parts at the car simply because they exist. Instead, I focus on a goal, and do what I can within economic limits, towards accomplishing that goal. With the Z, my goal has been to balance out the handling and bring it up to a Z06/911 level of performance - without compromising the day to day civility and reliability. While a TT or ST in the 350 would be awsome, and loads of fun, there comes a point where it's just not what you want. I have a 600 whp car in the garage, and love it for what it is, but sometimes you want to build a car, and not have to constantly worry about it doing all those things an NA-FI setup can lead to. I've been there and done that many times. So, I chose the road less travelled and am going all out NA. However, I am taking it one step further by fitting a fully mapable ecu (F Con) to fully exploit the rest of the setup - hopefully it pans out and gets my car to the 300 + whp range, where I think it will be tons more fun than it already is
As I get older, I find myself less willing to throw parts at the car simply because they exist. Instead, I focus on a goal, and do what I can within economic limits, towards accomplishing that goal. With the Z, my goal has been to balance out the handling and bring it up to a Z06/911 level of performance - without compromising the day to day civility and reliability. While a TT or ST in the 350 would be awsome, and loads of fun, there comes a point where it's just not what you want. I have a 600 whp car in the garage, and love it for what it is, but sometimes you want to build a car, and not have to constantly worry about it doing all those things an NA-FI setup can lead to. I've been there and done that many times. So, I chose the road less travelled and am going all out NA. However, I am taking it one step further by fitting a fully mapable ecu (F Con) to fully exploit the rest of the setup - hopefully it pans out and gets my car to the 300 + whp range, where I think it will be tons more fun than it already is
Last edited by Z1 Performance; 07-28-2005 at 06:26 PM.
07-29-2005, 02:06 PM
#56
Originally Posted by akijiki
Go me, I made a decent thread. >_<
Your funny...
Not sure if someone saw this in the SPEED magazine? Which I finally broke down and bought at the grocery store because it was so damn interesting and my icecream was melting. But I think the guy who tracked the slightly modded na/Z which clocked in around 128.?? (the fastest time) said his friend drives a Porsche GT3 and comes in at around 133.??, if I'm not mistaken? Now that was impressive
Zquicksilver
11-03-2005, 08:45 AM
#58
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I've been looking into so many different options lately, N/A, SC, ST, TT...
I am one of those power-hungry guys on the board, but along the way I realized a few things. First of all, I don't care about the numbers as much as I care about pulling up next to that STI at the stoplight and ROASTING him. And what I care about more than that is being able to drive my car at the limit and not worrying about it blowing up on me... So I decided to go this route :
Injen CAI - dyno proven to put out the most hp
Plenum spacer - great power throughout the band
Custom exhaust - 2.5" piping with CarSound HFC's (same that Kinetix uses) going to 2 HKS Hi Power Ti mufflers, still deciding on an x-pipe or not, but I'm leaning towards using one
JWT Clutch/Flywheel combo - daily driveability, the flywheel is still heavy enough to where it won't be impossible to launch so it won't hurt me from a stop, and the clutch is more than enough for my N/A needs
3.9 Final Drive - I'm not going to go over 150mph and say, damn, I wish I could go faster.... And it definately gives me a HUGE boost in acceleration, which is what I'm concerned about since the only "racing" I might do is around town
Reflash - to up the rev limiter, adjust the A/F, and not that I care but to take off the top speed limiter
Piggyback - to tune all those mods together
Tires - I'm on track rims so I'll be wrapping them in KDW drag radials, 265's in the rear
With this I am confident that I'll stand more than a good chance against any E46 M3, STI, or EVO that tries to bring it. And this is what the OP was concerned about. Any thoughts?
Oh and by the way the cost minus the tires, reflash and piggyback for all of this, installed, is $3416.08
I am one of those power-hungry guys on the board, but along the way I realized a few things. First of all, I don't care about the numbers as much as I care about pulling up next to that STI at the stoplight and ROASTING him. And what I care about more than that is being able to drive my car at the limit and not worrying about it blowing up on me... So I decided to go this route :
Injen CAI - dyno proven to put out the most hp
Plenum spacer - great power throughout the band
Custom exhaust - 2.5" piping with CarSound HFC's (same that Kinetix uses) going to 2 HKS Hi Power Ti mufflers, still deciding on an x-pipe or not, but I'm leaning towards using one
JWT Clutch/Flywheel combo - daily driveability, the flywheel is still heavy enough to where it won't be impossible to launch so it won't hurt me from a stop, and the clutch is more than enough for my N/A needs
3.9 Final Drive - I'm not going to go over 150mph and say, damn, I wish I could go faster.... And it definately gives me a HUGE boost in acceleration, which is what I'm concerned about since the only "racing" I might do is around town
Reflash - to up the rev limiter, adjust the A/F, and not that I care but to take off the top speed limiter
Piggyback - to tune all those mods together
Tires - I'm on track rims so I'll be wrapping them in KDW drag radials, 265's in the rear
With this I am confident that I'll stand more than a good chance against any E46 M3, STI, or EVO that tries to bring it. And this is what the OP was concerned about. Any thoughts?
Oh and by the way the cost minus the tires, reflash and piggyback for all of this, installed, is $3416.08
Last edited by 03_Track_Z; 11-03-2005 at 08:50 AM.
11-03-2005, 08:53 AM
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Originally Posted by 03_Track_Z
Reflash - to up the rev limiter, adjust the A/F, and not that I care but to take off the top speed limiter
Piggyback - to tune all those mods together
Oh and by the way the cost minus the tires, reflash and piggyback for all of this, installed, is $3416.08
Piggyback - to tune all those mods together
Oh and by the way the cost minus the tires, reflash and piggyback for all of this, installed, is $3416.08