binder

iTrader: (8)

All of the cars I have done full exhausts on and tuned did not smell. The only times I've ever experienced smell from any car with straight exhaust (or test pipes) is when they have an open breather system. Other than that the normal exhaust smell inside a closed building is all that is smelled. Sitting outside there is no abnormal smell.

This applies to all my friends' cars here in the area. Domestic guys almost always have straight exhaust and I have yet to know a friend with a boosted evo or dsm that has cats on their car. No way to prove this to anyone on the internet since I can't capture smell but anyone is welcome to come over to my garage and smell my car with not even test pipes (just straight manifolds) or my room mates car with full straight exhaust from the headers. 2 cars in 1 garage with no weird smells.

TunerMax

iTrader: (2)

Thanks as always for great imput Jeff. Soudns like there's more to the whole CC filter idea than anything else here. I'm going to try that before the Cat, if for no other reason than to verify if that's the primary cause of the smell.

And if you're right about it (I believe you very well are), then it solves a lot for me personally, and if confirmed, would be nice info to be able to pass along to others concerned about the smell.

I will see what I can do to install and test this weekend, need to locate that old CCV filter, in my basement somewhere lol.

IDrm350

iTrader: (8)

There is so much misinformation in this thread. It's ridiculous.

F2CMaDMaXX

iTrader: (2)

My Mustang stunk with the oil from blow-by, it was a fuely smell, i confirmed it was the cause as well.

The 350 is cleaner by far, id' say it will take a week driving after fitting a correctly constructed catch can for it to fully take effect.

F2CMaDMaXX

iTrader: (2)

Useless comment is useless?

TunerMax

iTrader: (2)

Thanks dude, very much hoping this is the case, It'd be wicked to avoid the HFC install. Will make things simpler when I do the H pipe & dual exhaust down the road as well.

I found the CrankCase Filter I had, I also for shyts looked it up online. Costs about $250-350 for this type of assembly. Wholly crap!!!! Dual chamber setup with the special filter. I wouldn't EVER have guessed it was that expensive, that's effing nuts.

F2CMaDMaXX

iTrader: (2)

Nice, so long as it's still a sealed system, and the internals are right, you're good to go

FWIW, a lot of people say it doesn't matter if you don't let the air back in, but i'd argue otherwise based on the fact it's metered air, i don't really care when they say, everything runs fine.

You're FI aren't you?

TunerMax

iTrader: (2)

Yup seems to be a proper CCV, I can't dig up the specific model, must be an older one. Perkins makes it. So I have to test it to be 100% sure of inlets/outlets, etc. Ill update where it goes.

SC isn't in yet, ordering mess, don't deal with Andy's auto if you can help it, what a disaster. I'll have it within the next couple weeks, this is all prep work for it to save last minute scrambling.

TunerMax

iTrader: (2)

quick update, I did some testing, the Perkins CCV filter housing has a check valve on the one outlet, the lower one I think is supposed to be a drain that goes in above the oil level, which we don't have without modifying.

Either way this thing wont work, it's made for a diesel, and as soon as I realized it has a check valve I figured I was toast. Check valve means under vacuum there's no flow, which basically just passes the crancase pressure into the CCV housing, which blows the housing up. (it actually has a one-time pressure release built in, but is useless once that blows off).

Obviously a Diesel (Turbo) doesn't have this issue with vacuum closing the valve, because no real vacuum. At least this is how I"m seeing this whole thing, not 100% positive of it.

I tried just running the lower 'drain' port back into the intake because of this, but it still blew the release off, so this thing is useless now, lmfao. It was pretty funny, thing just went BANG after a minute of running.

This tells me that I need to re-check my compression again, maybe the rings are worse than I thought.

Anyways, I ended up just installing an Atmospheric vent on the PCV outlet for now to test it out. I'll give that a week or so and see if the smell disipates, might try some intake cleaner to expediate things. And I have a Catch can on order.

Updates to come.

F2CMaDMaXX

iTrader: (2)

Sad about the can you have not working.

I can tell you that an atmospheric vent will keep the smell, just differently, so probably not the best test

When i ran the 'stang with one, it vented under the hood when revving stationary as well.

RENFRO

iTrader: (1)

This is stupid. Put your stock cats back in and gtfo.

bmyles

Sir, I don't know what kind of website you think this is, but I'm not going to smell your tailpipe.

TunerMax

iTrader: (2)

A very small update:

The smell is just as bad as it ever was, temps have cooled off around here lately and that seems to have made it worse, whatever the reasoning, dunno.

As mentioned by 'F2CMA...', the smell is 'different' at some times because I'm using an atmospheric vent rather than the proper CCV setup for the time being.
That said, this smell is still very clearly coming from the tailpipe. In actuality the atmospheric vent seems to have made things worse, because I've simply added another different smell that I get sometimes from the engine bay now.

Either way nothing is conclusive because this isn't the 'proper' CCV setup to accurately gauge this, but I can say with some certainty that I don't think a CCV will fix the smell in my particular instance. This could be due to climate, engine condition, etc, dunno, but the noxious fumes from the tailpipe will literally fry your nostrils if you put them close. Don't ask how I know. this means that even without the PCV recirculating there's some nasty smell going out the exhaust still.

If I get the Catch Can before I get the HFC, I'll test it with that setup. If I get the HFC first, it's going on.

Azzerare

iTrader: (1)

You ordered something from andy's auto sport??
never do that. ever. BAD BAD BAD

TunerMax

iTrader: (2)

^^ YUUUP Never deal with them!!

Guess what, they sent the WRONG BLOWER and PULLEY for my SC also.

As a thread update because it's bumped: I have the Catch Can & HFC, got them at the same time but hit Alternator Electrical Gremlins, so I won't get either in for at least a week. I'll be sure to update when I get something Conclusive!

TunerMax

iTrader: (2)

I finished this some time ago, and due to the general attitude held on this site, I've basically stepped away from it completely, and this thread.
I was reminded of it by someone the other day while discussing this forum and decided to post back in case anyone like-minded was looking for information on this or something similar. A conclusion, for those Googling around, anyways.


1st: this isn't a 'pretty' installation, so keep those kind of comments to yourself The car will be receiving a proper 2.5" dual TIG welded exhaust once I finish building the engine, so this is temporary.

2nd: It works exactly (better actually) than I planned. No more smell.

3rd: No rasp at all anymore

4th: Total cost was ~ $100


A few pictures. Any questions please ask away.

Italianjoe1

iTrader: (6)

So the solution to removing the cats was to add one back in? Why not just get HFC's to replace the test pipes anyway? No fabrication involved. Price difference can't be that great, especially if you figure your time into it.

F2CMaDMaXX

iTrader: (2)

That's pretty much what the Motordyne XYZ pipe with the HFC bolt-on is.

TunerMax

iTrader: (2)

I'll take the time to answer these questions in some detail, a lot of this is repeated information that was already posted though:

Yes, obviously. Except this is a HFC and isn't as close to the engine, which means less impact on performance and longer life (less heat).
The OEM cat's are known to break down and cause issues up to and including blowing engines up. Nissan cat's are famous for this and it's been proven more than a few times lately that the G's and Z's are no exception.



Though this will be argued by some here I'm sure, there's not really any decent HFC's on the market. Most have been failing at a notable rate, because of the reason I originally posted, they use really cheap Cat cores. perhaps the larger reason though, is that the prices of those HFC's are outrageous considering the cat's they use are trash.

Price for the HFC's are what, $500-$700? Plus shipping and installation?

Shipping, plus the cat I have was under $100. My time is free
It took me about 2 hours start to finish including blocking up onto and off the hoist and hunting for misc tools and gaskets.
There is less labour involved in this then there is in replacing Stock cat's for HFC's, so if you're talking about labour, this is actually LESS labour, even if you are paying someone else to do it.


Exactly. Except it costs $400 plus shipping and installation. This costs under $100

IDrm350

iTrader: (8)

Not true. A pressure drop is a pressure drop. And the OEM cats are far enough from the engine to not affect scavenging and so are the HFC on the market.

You've got all of the flow going through one cat versus the flow going through two cats so if anything, while your cat is some what larger, your solution likely creates more pressure drop and therefore less power.

Catalyst works more efficiently at higher temperatures until a certain point (different for every catalyst) where activity starts to drop off. The temperature has to be extremely high to affect the catalyst life. You will only see lower efficiently due to the lower temperature at that location here, not extended life.

Link me some threads to this happening. I have never heard of this happening, even on Zs approaching 200K miles.

Again, this is not true. Stillen uses high quality metallic cores. On my car, they provided a significant power (almost equal to test pipes) and were clean enough that I almost could have passed the sniffer (no detectable smell except at WOT). Sure they aren't cheap but my Stillen HFC are still going strong in a buddy's car.