DarkZ03

iTrader: (11)

No cams yet I'm not even tuned lol. My engine is at 90k and I have I few things I'd like to do before tuning. Overall the car feels good but I only drive it about 1000-3000 miles a year (if that) and I have not felt the need for a tune. I may change the Borla out for a different exhaust this year and if I do I might consider a tune. The Tomei headers fit REALLY WELL BTW, IMO better than the Nismo headers. I actually installed them my self so I know what the fitment/procedure was like. Cams are a really nice MOD and there is no doubt in my mind I will get some in the future (definitely Tomei) but I actually need to decide if I'm going to stay NA or supercharge. Both of which will lead to the engine coming out, I can worry about cams at that point.

drozzy

I'm inclined not to go for the MREV2 at this point... big intake that takes care of the MAF piece, big TB, big spacer, headers, HFC and catback. Retune/dyno in the evening, following install. I'll have before and after dynos, but only post-install/pre-tune for the 'before' piece. The tune only accounts for short ram, HFC and catback currently (249HP/237TQ)... hoping for decent gains.

Very low chance that cams are ever seriously considered.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

I like it...

sounds counter-intuitive but I'd tune at high-noon / hottest part of the day - tune for the worst condition you'll push the engine in ... the old block the IC during your tune trick.

drozzy

Schedule constraint, it's got to happen around 5-6 pm (projecting ~18 deg C). It's somewhere in the middle of my local temp range for the Z, 3 to 32 deg C.

Just wanted members to know Moncef returns inquiries quickly if you need to contact him - great customer service.

My install is scheduled for the morning of May 17th, dyno + retune (UpRev) early evening. I know I know, it's far out but I thought I'd plug in another combo that will be tested with this intake in it.

Non-revup DE 5AT GT trim (only in '06 ), 44K mi, stock suspension, Michelin PS4S -street class for fun- on RaysV2's (19X10 heavies in the rear)

September 2017 (few bolt-ons, pre-tune)
1/4 mi 2nd run 14.43 @ 99.51 (2.19), 3rd run 14.56 @ 95.54 (2.14)... heat soak?
*later determined to be a ~237HP/~225TQ setup

October 2017 - UpRev tuning
Injen CAI shortened to SRI
Stock plenum
Stock exhaust manifolds
Stillen HFC -- this is Canada folks, cats are part of the visual inspection during emission testing
Borla TD
237-->249 HP
225-->237 TQ

April 2018 - First time running tuned + UpRev throttle mapping
1/4 mi XX.X @ XX.XX (X.X)
(249HP/237TQ)

May 2018 - Retune
AdminTuning intake (3.5" incl MAF housing)
NWP 75mm TB kit (port matched)
1/2" or 5/8" plenum spacer, otherwise stock plenum
Borla headers
(not that I'm here to debunk the myth they don't make power, but my shop stands behind them and have seen good gains on modded & tuned cars - not stock ones)
Stillen HFC
Borla TD
249-->XXX HP
237-->XXX TQ
1/4 mi XX.X @ XX.XX (X.X)

Stock cams of course.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

a good tune will account for a higher IAT so I wouldn't worry too much! Great thread thus far - keep up the lords work

drozzy

Man, speaking of the lords work... I didn't just contact Moncef@AdminTuning, of course I sent a few questions to Tony@MD as well.
*edit; to be clear Tony is doing the lords work, not me.. it read funny

Here here... @Hydrazine, Tony this is too good not to share in its integrity. Sorry if that's a bit much.



1- Did Motordyne consider spacers larger than 1/2" by design?
A- Yes. Our very first spacer was ¾” thick. It was interesting because when we tested it against the ½”, the ¾” did not perform as well. It was out of tune. There is actually a point where the internal volume can be too much. It was also too large for proper fitment in the Z. In some cases it rubbed against the hood. The 5/16” spacer didn’t have as much top end near redline but it provided more overall power, responsiveness and area under the power curve.

On the non-revup DE engine… One thing is for sure, any spacer is better than no spacer at all. But once a spacer is used, the differences between 5/16”, ½” and ¾” are there, buy they are mild. There are rapidly diminishing returns by going larger than ¼” and once its in the ¾” range, I got the feel from dyno testing and driving that it was too large. These were subtle differences but its what I observed from a lot of testing and driving.

For me, the 5/16” was the best overall compromise and it fit under the strut bar. Keeping the strut bar was/is a very important criteria in our assessment. I didn’t want to ditch the strut bar unless there was a strong reason to do it.

1.a- If you did, did you have access to a 3.5" or 4" intake and still chose not to design a 5/8" spacer, for instance?
A- No. They didn’t exist at that time.

1.b- If you did have access to a functional 3.5" intake tube, was the stock TB considered a limitation upwards of ~5000 RPM in terms of maximizing the potential of a large intake design?
A- We haven’t tested that combo.

2- Have you ever seen the MREV2 installed on a non-Revup car that had large intake, larger TB, 1/2" spacer and short headers/HFC/full catback?
A- No.

2.a- If you have, were the gains produced by the MREV2 larger than say, gains documented on your [stock vs. 5/16" spacer + MREV2] dyno sheet?
A- Not tested. They didn’t exist at that time.

DarkZ03

iTrader: (11)

Have fun, hopefully they work for you. After holding a JDM product in your hands and seeing the difference in quality over others, nothing else will do. =) only reason I got the kinetix is it looks so much better and it's infinitely easier to remove than the stock crap.

drozzy

Small update: intake ordered, and if everything goes well with these guys... think I found a solution from 10 years ago to the big spacer problem.

http://www.zshop.ca/parts/z33-stillen-strut-bar/

Ordered, will see if it's old stocks as Stillen themselves don't have them for sale. They seem to be based out of Canada which is a bonus for me. Otherwise will do everything I can to get my hands on an APS Tough Boy (http://www.airpowersystems.com/350z/...trut_brace.htm). I don't cross the car nor do I take it to road courses.

So, options are basically old Stillen stocks somewhere, find someone who carries APS (their Ontario distributor carries them no more), hope that Z1 fabricates some of their forward mount strut bars sometime soon (told me no ETA on new stocks) or............... do nothing and drive w/o a strut bar up front. Shocks are getting upgraded next year anyway, something like B6's or Yellow Sports on stock springs.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

Are you going to replace the OEM strut bar with the stillen and go with a larger spacer?

I had that stillen strut bar and I think it did it's job but it was heavy - I think it's stainless steel. (I'm probably the only person on this forum that is concerned with weight). I ran in in conjunction with the OEM brace.

Its your car - do as you please but if it was me, I'd stick with the 5/16" spacer and the OEM strut tower brace. I WOULD NOT drive the car with out it. If you can conceptualize the front section of the strut tower - the OEM tower brace completes a circle ...starting with the sub-frame (where the engine is mounted to) the strut towers on each side and the strut tower brace over the top - removing any item is compromising the integrity of the chassis...just my $0.02.

drozzy

Oh don't get me wrong, I'm definitely trying to get "a" strut bar rather than driving without it, just don't see it as a safety issue since A) I don't track the car and B) even my aggressive street driving probably wouldn't qualify to any of you crazies as "aggressive" LOL. For the dkmuras and terrasmaks of the world however I completely understand ensuring full chassis integrity... I can't see all of the three bar options I posted going to ****, something has GOT to work out here.


Some guy from 2009, post was very well received:


And this is 2017: