DC Headers made in from Summit Racing..
#202
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Originally posted by shopdog
Got a postcard from Summit today telling me my stainless headers will be shipped on 7/9/04.
Er, ordered 5/29
Got a postcard from Summit today telling me my stainless headers will be shipped on 7/9/04.
Er, ordered 5/29
#204
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Mpowers, or anyone else for that matter, what size ratcheting wrench do you need to install these? I'd like to get all my tools together before I start the install.
Thanks
Thanks
#207
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channy its a 14mm, I had 3 diffent 14mm wrenches and not a one would fit.
THX723 I have really enjoyed the headers, the sound alone is worth it. And in the higher rpms it really comes to life.
To top it off I installed a jwt flywheel and clutch last friday.
THX723 I have really enjoyed the headers, the sound alone is worth it. And in the higher rpms it really comes to life.
To top it off I installed a jwt flywheel and clutch last friday.
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Originally posted by mpowers
channy its a 14mm, I had 3 diffent 14mm wrenches and not a one would fit.
THX723 I have really enjoyed the headers, the sound alone is worth it. And in the higher rpms it really comes to life.
To top it off I installed a jwt flywheel and clutch last friday.
channy its a 14mm, I had 3 diffent 14mm wrenches and not a one would fit.
THX723 I have really enjoyed the headers, the sound alone is worth it. And in the higher rpms it really comes to life.
To top it off I installed a jwt flywheel and clutch last friday.
Thnx,
Stephen
#209
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OMFG! The install took me 10 hours to complete! I did it on an open lift and it took me 10 hours! The sound is good. Not deeper, but it is a little louder and alot smoother. I love the sound of a smooth flowing ehaust. The car feels faster, but my butt dyno was asleep after the long install. I will drive it to work tomorrow and tell you what I think.
On the wrenches and tools. You will need a 3/8 metric socket set(deep and shallow), 1/2 inch metric set (deep and shallow), lots and lots of extensions, a breaker bar and a cheater bar to put on wratchets and socket wrenches, a full set of box and open end metric wrenches, and a full set of ratcheting metric wrenches (Not the thick ones). Air tools are a definate plus!
As for the extras, you will need heat shield tape, green antifreeze, and distilled water.
This install is not for the faint of heart, I install all of my mods and this one took the cake! Good luck and feel free to PM me with any questions, I ca recite the entire install process now.
On the wrenches and tools. You will need a 3/8 metric socket set(deep and shallow), 1/2 inch metric set (deep and shallow), lots and lots of extensions, a breaker bar and a cheater bar to put on wratchets and socket wrenches, a full set of box and open end metric wrenches, and a full set of ratcheting metric wrenches (Not the thick ones). Air tools are a definate plus!
As for the extras, you will need heat shield tape, green antifreeze, and distilled water.
This install is not for the faint of heart, I install all of my mods and this one took the cake! Good luck and feel free to PM me with any questions, I ca recite the entire install process now.
#210
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Originally posted by mpowers
channy its a 14mm, I had 3 diffent 14mm wrenches and not a one would fit.
THX723 I have really enjoyed the headers, the sound alone is worth it. And in the higher rpms it really comes to life.
To top it off I installed a jwt flywheel and clutch last friday.
channy its a 14mm, I had 3 diffent 14mm wrenches and not a one would fit.
THX723 I have really enjoyed the headers, the sound alone is worth it. And in the higher rpms it really comes to life.
To top it off I installed a jwt flywheel and clutch last friday.
Thanks for the feedback
#211
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Originally posted by alininger2001
OMFG! The install took me 10 hours to complete! I did it on an open lift and it took me 10 hours!
This install is not for the faint of heart, I install all of my mods and this one took the cake! Good luck and feel free to PM me with any questions, I ca recite the entire install process now.
OMFG! The install took me 10 hours to complete! I did it on an open lift and it took me 10 hours!
This install is not for the faint of heart, I install all of my mods and this one took the cake! Good luck and feel free to PM me with any questions, I ca recite the entire install process now.
email me if you have interest... jchen@streetimage.com
-Jeff
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congrats on the install alininger2001....how do you rate the difficulty from 1-10...and how do you rate yourself as a mechanic
i like to do my own work as well...but no access to a lift....will be working from under jackstands and have a couple of helping hands too
i like to do my own work as well...but no access to a lift....will be working from under jackstands and have a couple of helping hands too
#215
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ALINGER what did you use the collant for? Or did we take more off than we should have? You are right this is not a job for people not up to the task.
The only thing I found for a trick was to unbolt the compressor so it would move up an inch to access the front left nut on the manifold and if you remove the starter ( don't forget to disconnect the battery, only unbolt it from the trans.) the heat shield will come out of the right side a with less effort. The racheting wrench was a 14mm short craftsman style all I could find at a last minute deal.
The only thing I found for a trick was to unbolt the compressor so it would move up an inch to access the front left nut on the manifold and if you remove the starter ( don't forget to disconnect the battery, only unbolt it from the trans.) the heat shield will come out of the right side a with less effort. The racheting wrench was a 14mm short craftsman style all I could find at a last minute deal.
#216
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mpowers, did you reuse your coolant or did you find a way to install the headers without having to drain the radiator?
I hate coolant with a passion, but my dog loves it!
I hate coolant with a passion, but my dog loves it!
#217
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I did not have to undo any coolant lines. There is a hard pipe on the right side of the engine that make the nut tightening process a little more fun but not worth removeing that is the only thing I could see some one undoing that would cause the need for coolant to be drained. This job took me 12 hours including two trips to the store (wrench1 time, broke a 14mm socket the other)and two stops for lunch and dinner. I did the installation on floor stand and a creeper. If I would not have screwed around for an hour before I decided to go buy the proper tool it would have saved me some time. But being stubren I pulled out every combination of socket, swivel and wrenches I had to tighten that damn nut. After I went to sears and bought the wrench I was done in ten minutes. The problem is that the lower center nut on both sides can only be attadked with a wrench ( I did start the nut with a 1/4 ratchet with a shallow socket but the socket botoms out after a few turns and the deepwell is too long) do to the bend of the header running directly behind the nut and stud. The left hand side I used and open end mac open end wrench because I had not purchased the ratcheting style as of then. But the right could not be turned with either a offset wrench, stantered wrench or a long wrench. Thats why I keep saying purchase a ratcheting wrench it save time. Sorry for being long winded.
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Originally posted by mpowers
I did not have to undo any coolant lines. There is a hard pipe on the right side of the engine that make the nut tightening process a little more fun but not worth removeing that is the only thing I could see some one undoing that would cause the need for coolant to be drained. This job took me 12 hours including two trips to the store (wrench1 time, broke a 14mm socket the other)and two stops for lunch and dinner. I did the installation on floor stand and a creeper. If I would not have screwed around for an hour before I decided to go buy the proper tool it would have saved me some time. But being stubren I pulled out every combination of socket, swivel and wrenches I had to tighten that damn nut. After I went to sears and bought the wrench I was done in ten minutes. The problem is that the lower center nut on both sides can only be attadked with a wrench ( I did start the nut with a 1/4 ratchet with a shallow socket but the socket botoms out after a few turns and the deepwell is too long) do to the bend of the header running directly behind the nut and stud. The left hand side I used and open end mac open end wrench because I had not purchased the ratcheting style as of then. But the right could not be turned with either a offset wrench, stantered wrench or a long wrench. Thats why I keep saying purchase a ratcheting wrench it save time. Sorry for being long winded.
I did not have to undo any coolant lines. There is a hard pipe on the right side of the engine that make the nut tightening process a little more fun but not worth removeing that is the only thing I could see some one undoing that would cause the need for coolant to be drained. This job took me 12 hours including two trips to the store (wrench1 time, broke a 14mm socket the other)and two stops for lunch and dinner. I did the installation on floor stand and a creeper. If I would not have screwed around for an hour before I decided to go buy the proper tool it would have saved me some time. But being stubren I pulled out every combination of socket, swivel and wrenches I had to tighten that damn nut. After I went to sears and bought the wrench I was done in ten minutes. The problem is that the lower center nut on both sides can only be attadked with a wrench ( I did start the nut with a 1/4 ratchet with a shallow socket but the socket botoms out after a few turns and the deepwell is too long) do to the bend of the header running directly behind the nut and stud. The left hand side I used and open end mac open end wrench because I had not purchased the ratcheting style as of then. But the right could not be turned with either a offset wrench, stantered wrench or a long wrench. Thats why I keep saying purchase a ratcheting wrench it save time. Sorry for being long winded.