sharingan625

iTrader: (1)

hello all,

so car won't start after work yesterday, it was making spark/clicking sound but it won't start. so i used a jump cable to start the car, and it started fine. and after i came home, i tried starting the car again and it won't start, making that same clicking soud.

At that point, i thought the battery was dead so i went and bought a new one, replaced it myself today.

the car started fine right after i replaced the battery, but the car died while test driving, when i made a stop at a stop sign.

so i start the car again and it would start, but then dies right away if i don't give any gas.

my neighbor who's into cars says that if i take the battery out when the car's completely off, it would reset the computer and he thinks car is dying because the computer takes time to reset... so he told me to wait until tomorrow morning and try starting the car again.

what do you guys think? maybe something else went bad?

please advise. i can't sleep like this...

thanks,

Jung

INGSZ33

iTrader: (7)

check your negative terminal. Make sure its tight. I myself and a few other have replaced the stock battery with a new one from your local autopart store and all had the same issue with loose nagative terminal. It'll tighten all the way snugged but you can still twist it. If you can, take it off the terminal and pinch the clamp with a pair of pliers. Just pinch a little at a time. It'll look sorta oval but will round out once tighten. Hope thats the problem.

If not, have your alternator tested.

sharingan625

iTrader: (1)

thank you,

i just tried it, but problem persists...

here is the symptom after reconnecting the negative.

1st time i start the car, it started fine and idle stably at 1000 rpm.

2nd time i start the car, it starts but engine kinda puddles at about 5-600 rpm.

3rd time, the engine died...

could this be the alternater issue?

INGSZ33

iTrader: (7)

Does it just click and don't turn? if so, It can be a fuel pump relay. Try it again and if it turns over, then probably relay. You can tell if you drained your battery. Its cranks and slowly dies out of juice and just clicks rapidly. Sure all terminals are cleaned and tight?

INGSZ33

iTrader: (7)

Take your battery back to the store and have them test it. Some battery will sit for a long time on the shelf and becomes defective. They're suppose to rotate the batteries according to date. You should have a sticker of when it was brought into stock/shelf

sharingan625

iTrader: (1)

with the new battery, there is no clicking sound.
car starts fine and strong, but then it dies right after..
if i don't give some gas as soon as the car starts, the rpm drops and engine dies.

all the electrical stuff in the car works fine with new battery as well.

ugh. could it really be the computer reset issue as my neighbor said??

cheshirecat79

iTrader: (9)

Get the battery and alternator tested by a auto shop.

VO...

iTrader: (25)

This is a tough one. Sounds like some type of alternator problem or output power connection with the alternator.

ZGone

Also make sure that you didn't knock loose any of the vacuum hoses to the intake are valve heads. Also check to make sure that the dipstick is fully seated. I know a girl that was have a simular problem with a new Mustang. Would start and then die if it didn't get gas. Once I reseated the dipstick it ran smooth.

SuperBlack350z

iTrader: (59)

^^ it's not any vacuum hoses if his battery was clicking in the first place.

you said that with the new battery, it starts fine then later dies. What it seems to me is that your battery isn't charging while the car is running. So basically there is something wrong with your alternator.

silverbullet_Z

iTrader: (3)

+1 on the alternator just replaced mine had the same issues i only have 40k on mine.. But charge your battery overnight and if you have a voltmeter check the voltage than start your car up and check the voltage again while the car is running if the voltage continues to drop it more than likely is your alternator... A good strong alternerator with a new battery while the car is running should be reading close to 14V...

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

If your Alt is bad then your car will run until the Battery gets below 12 volts, It will start to stammer and soon die. If it sits, it will on its own, charge a couple Volts ---Car will start and repeat the failure.

sharingan625

iTrader: (1)

Oh man.

i went to the mechanics and they said it really is the computer reset issue.
i guess i was supposed to keep the computer alive somehow before disconnecting a battery completely.
i am just used to my old camry which didn't have issues like this.. disconnect the battery, put new one in, connect it all back, and that was it.

anyways, back to the point,

the mechanic says that there is nothing he can do for now, and it will all come back to normal after few days of driving.

and i think it is really getting better. now i can drive without engine dying on me.

starting the car takes a little bit of gas.

so... don't make the same mistake guys... this is a major PITA.

thanks for all your help!

cheshirecat79

iTrader: (9)

None of this makes much sense, but glad to hear that the car seems to be doing better.

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

Agreed, But WTF

SuperBlack350z

iTrader: (59)

i have made the same mistake, but it worked. Not sure why you had that problem.

sharingan625

iTrader: (1)

yes. it doesn't make much sense, but i am happy to hear that no parts got ****ed up.

i've talked to a few z owners in the past few days, and actually met a guy who had the same issue. he said it took more than a week for his car to come back to fully normal...

i guess it doesn't happen to everyone?

mikeygp4

i just replaced my battery and i'm having the same problem. my car would start strong but then die after a few seconds. i reset the ecu by disconnecting the battery overnight and i think it helped a little. my car still dies after a few seconds but not as often as before. also i noticed my rpm is idling at 500 or below and it sometimes feel like my car is about to stall. the car seems to run fine as long as i rev the engine a bit but i never had to help the car before. is the ecu still relearning or is there anything else i can do to fix this problem? i'd like to avoid going to the dealer.

mikeygp4

i'm still having the same problem. my car starts fine when my engine is cool but when it's warmed up, it'll start but die after a few seconds. any advise on this?

Eazzy

iTrader: (8)

This is a prob that can no longer be blamed on switching Batts, unless you fried something.

And my comps have "relearned" after like....1 minute

Its had time to collect codes ---read them