NO THROTTLE RESPONCE Wut Da H3LL?!?
 

first off lemme say wassup to everyone on the forum (Wassssup )

ok... i was dead on the side of the road and another 350 owner pulled over (a real cool guy) and offered help, we chatted for a bit and he told me i shud get on the forum, so... here i am.

k heres the issue... my CEL was throwing a TPS code... every time i start to drive aggressive or the motor heats up the car would completely lose throttle response and i would not be able to rev over 2k - 2.5K... i could coast the car but would not be able to give her any gas, at least till the motor cooled for a bit. i would take the car back to Signal Auto (in Carson) and get the CEL turned off... then within a day or so the issue would happen again...


lemme give you a little history on the car itself....

when i first bought the car she was in real bad condition... the guy that owned her before was a fuxin tard and had the intake modified (if you would even call it "modified" ) and it has been having this "dead throttle" for some time now... I replaced his "modified" intake with a K&N Typhoon cold air... i have had the car for about 1,000 miles so far (new owner) and the motor has a little over 7,000 miles on the car (still a baby) not to mention that the motor was over heating due to water being clogged somewhere in the motor but that was solved and the over heating is gone (lucky me)... the motor looked like SH*T and there is a NEW THROTTLE BODY on the car. (u can tell by the super clean part compared to the rest of the dirty ass motor)

ok... where was I... ohh...Signal said i might need a new TPS and i would have to buy a whole new throttle body and that would run me about $580....from the dealer... $580?... seemed steep, so i called the dealer MYSELF and they said that it only costs $180 for throttle body and TPS...( i dont think im ever going back to Signal )... any wayz... while i was @ signal about a week ago or so i ran into another guy that was getting a oil change on his Black G35 turbo sitting on a set of Winnings and he told me that since i have a new Throttle body (which i do) i shud prolly do a reset... (pull the Neg battery terminal and hit the brakes a ton of times) I just did that today (shudda did it a week ago :icon11: ) CEL is now gone...the throttle response seems much improved and the car does not go "dead throttle syndrome" under aggressive driving (so far) its a cool day w/ plenty of wind so i prolly just didnt heat the TPS enough to cause a issue yet during my 6 mins of driving...

steps taken to solve the "dead throttle syndrome" so far...
1) cleaned TPS
2) cleaned MAF
3) replaced fake intake
4) manual reset on throttle body (removing -neg battery)

1 & 2 & 3 didnt work, i wont know about 3 till i do some driving....

God... i said all that to say this...

my questions are...
-has anyone ever experienced this?
-is there anything else i can do to solve the issue
-since there WAS a CEL for the TPS, shud changing out the throttle body solve the problem? (CEL is gone after the manual reset but the prob might still happen again)
what is the best PERMANENT fix for the issue

here are a few B4 & After pix of the motor... along with some shots of his "Modified" intake held on with BUBBLE GUM and DUCT TAPE! (yes... i said bubble gum)
dont worry... i got the car CHEAP :icon38:

this is how it was when i brought her home the first night:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...ix/zups004.jpg


his intake:

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...aLVAGEd006.jpg

yes, that CHEWING GUM... u can smell the flavor when it heats up!
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...VAGEd005-1.jpg



a few minor improvements so far:
http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18.../zups095-1.jpg

I have throttle problem , too.

It only happens whent he car is HOT....but here's the wierd part. I am talking about HOT from sitting outside in the sun all day. I could drive for hours and not have any issues, but if I drove the car to work and left it in the parking lot all day.....I'd have a non-responsive throttle for about 5 minutes when I 1st start driving home.

I had the dealer replace the throttle body, but that didn't do anything to fix the issue. I am stumped. :confused:

WOW! WOW!:eek: :eek: :icon22: :icon22: you should have slapped that foo that sold you the car!! first off duct tape and gum!??!?!?? and a PAPER air filter that looks like its for a f150 or something!??? unbelieveable

You bought it privately like this or from a dealer?? That's completely unacceptable! And for an '05 7K miles is extremely low, as is if it was NEVER driven... and the "dead throttle syndrome" is refered to as Limp Mode.

haha thats pretty freaking ghetto

duct tape and gum

bwahahahhahhaha

Here is some info for you my friend.

ECU Resetting Procedures
Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
Operations Procedures
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.

Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
Operation Procedure
1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.

Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Operation Procedures
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.

Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
Operation Procedures

1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.

thx cdoxp800... i have no idea what i would use any of that for. im so nub with Nissan its sad... but i will keep the info.

now, question... when i removed the neg battery terminal and hit the brakes and the CEL was off when i started the car what did i do? cause i didnt see that routine in the list of thing u gave.

-LAKERSFAN tell me about it... poor car.

-diwun67 thx for the "limp mode" hint... apparently this is more common then i expected...

-QuadCam, dont mean to sound like a dick but... im glad there are others out there like me!
:icon18:


BTW... drove the car all night since my last post and NO ISSUES AT ALL... seems like there might be a good change.

how the hell did you get a throttle body for $180? I bought one from Nissan a few months ago and it was $4xx WITH a dealer discount

Good to here. These are the routines for reseting the ECU Ect..

No problem! I have no idea WTF could be the issue. I'm glad I'm not the only one with this issue.

all the throttle body's at my local dealership (Carson Nissan) are rebuilds with NEW TPS's ... if i turn in my current throttle body the rebuild is $180 :D

-QuadCam i was doing more driving tonight and the beyotch went into limp mode again, i pulled over, pulled the battery again... hit the breaks about 20 times... put the battery back on and went along my way... seems like i found a fix till we can solve the issue... shud werk on urs too... lemme know next time this happens and tell ur results, would like to know how ur car is responding. :confused: a good friend of mine who is a mechanic told me that the issue might be the ECU if i change the throttle body out and the problem still persists. have u had urs checked or might anyone have any knowledge concerning ECU's regarding TPS issues?

wow, why would you buy the car like that? If the water was clogged, it probably overheated plenty of times. Good luck. Hopefuly everything goes well. Those are horrible problems with a car with 7k miles.

I like the looks of that K&N typhoon cold air kit, Are you satisfied with it? I am shopping for a new one since the Aem one I had kept sucking in a little water when it rained and caused mine to go into limp mode also.

my car has never gone into limp mode....and it doesn't throw any codes. I only ever got TPS and other throttle codes one time. I have list of them somewhere....it was 9 or 10 codes all at once. :eek:

Yup, most likely your ecu.

Well you mentioned the car had 7k on it so off course the TB is going to look new so it might not have been replaced but it still might be damaged, especially if the car has overheated. I had a similar problem when I ran my supercharged Z too hard, it cooked the TB (common problem) and threw the car into limp mode, once replaced the problem was fixed. Next time the car goes limp check the code. Go to any auto zone and they will do it for free that way you know whats up. My guess would be the MAF sensor is damaged, judging from the intake the douche had on the car when he sold it to you would lead me to believe that more then just air went into that intake and prob damaged the sensor. They are very sensitive and once they are damaged a simple cleaning wont fix the problem. I have a spare one if you need it, let me know. Reseting your ecu is a temporary fix but will only get worse over time and eventually leave you on the side of the road and not run above idle, I learned the hard way :(

You guys are thinking too much, his MAF is probably ****ed and has crap allover it from it getting past the previous owners pile of **** intake.

the issue is still there... :icon11:

if you're in san pedro, i highly recommend you togo Technosquare Inc, off of 223rd and Normandie in Torrance. 310 787 0847. they can diagnosis your problem and help you fix it instead of tell you to buy more parts.


they have a consult II obd2 reader and could help you figure out the MIL code.

for the car going into limp mode would suspect a loose hose somewhere, definately describe the problem. ask for the engine builder howard.

Wow... I personally would never buy a car with the ghetto rigging that one had.... Who know's what else was neglected, abused, or f'd up on it?... :icon22: