For what it’s worth, I have an 07 Nismo #628 with about 20K miles that has never sputtered. It had 5 oil changes with Pennzoil 5W-30 full synthetic in the first 5000 miles, then Mobil 1 5W-30 full synthetic each 3000 miles after that. It has virtually no oil consumption and the oil is not very dark on the dip stick at 3000 miles. It might be important that this engine has never tasted any other oil, other than 5W-30 full synthetic. Of course, it may pick up this sputtering issue sometime in the future, but I thought you might find some value in this info.

I have said it before, and I will say it again. It has something to do with the ECU/tune. When I installed the Haltech, the sputtering stopped completely.

And will prove it more when I go back to stock ECU/tune and stock engine.

I have an 07 G35 sedan. I have the same problem. Ever since I changed my oil to Amsoil Euro Blend 5w-30 I started to sputter. I'm going to change back to Castrol Syntec 5W-30 to see if it solves the problem.

Just put in Castrol Edge 0w40 today , its not sputtering badly but slight sputter is still there. Will see if it comes back after some miles,

Another 07 manual with 42K on the odometer checking in with the same problem. Is the consensus still on the VTC and ECU cold start being the main culprit with using certain oil densities being a temp fix? I'd like to at least calm the problem down as it as progressively gotten worse over the few months I've owned the car.

I think that is still the consensus.

If you want a temp fix, do a Motul Engine clean during oil change and immediately afterwards use oil with Specific gravity less than .85 (thin oil)

Agree :thumbup:

I was having this problem with my '07 as well. I have been running 2 different oils depending on the season. 5w30 for cold months and 5w40 for warm ones. In the past 10k miles my car developed this problem. The worst rpm 'hop' or 'chug' would happen when I was creeping in rush hour traffic and driving in second gear @ 800rpm. When I would accelerate slowly, as soon as I got to 1000 rpm, my car would seemingly go dead for a split second causing a big stutter.

Someone in this thread was saying its being caused by the cam phaser and the use of heavy oil. I couldn't think how that could be because it would seem if that was the case, everyone who starts their car in cold weather would have the issue.

I was using 5w-40 shell rotella t6 when the problem became very bad. I just changed my oil to 5w-30 penzoil ultimate and the problem pretty much went away. If it is the cam phasers causing this issue and the oil, I would like to know why they are so sensitive to the type of oil used!

I have this problem in my 06 MT. The first 2-3 minutes of driving cold are normal, then 2 minutes of hesitation and bucking at light throttle only, then normal again.

I put a complete fuel cleaner product by Nulon in the tank last night. I drove 3km home. Then the next day not a single sign of the problem on the way to work. It was back again midday but 80% better than it was previously and about the same 80% improvement in the evening. It is so much better than it was.

I am just hoping it doesn't revert back again when the tank is refilled. I also bought some stuff to increase the octane rating based on the recommendations here but have not yet tried this.

Setting my entire cam phasing table to 0 on uprev fixed my issues (but disabled VTC)

So I peaked through the FSM and found what I have attached. Let me know if it helps you guys.

Go through procedure E-71, in the FSM diagnosis by symptom section. If you have a real scanner this should be easy. Need to watch the timing, knock signal, misfire counters if they are there.

I remember may exhaust cam phasing table is all zero in the Haltech map Hal sent me. I never had the problem after I installed the Haltech!!

Maybe its the problem!!

I've followed this thread since its inception. I sold my 07 g35sport sedan before being able to tracking the problem down. I knew it was in the exhaust timing just because of the flat note the car would put out during the occurrence. It is interesting how oil seems to affect it. I had recently learned how the system actually works using a magnet and wet clutch plate on the cam sprocket. My issue surfaced at around 55k miles and I always used the same oil an did not change a thing. I am wondering if changing the whole assembly would completely remedy the problem? From my personal experience and attempted investigation before selling i think it is possibly related to mechanical wear and tear on that vtc assembly. I drove my car hard the 4 years I had it. All I know is when the issue is tracked down and a permanent remedy found, I am getting back in an HR powered vehicle.

Have read through this thread from start to finish, understanding that the general consensus is to do with oil viscosity. Also maybe to do with the mapping? Is there anyone else who has changed the map succesfully solving this issue?
Mine has been doing it for some time now and would like to get to the bottom of it. 08HR on 65,000

the advancement or retardation of the camshaft is controlled with oil pressure via a VTC triggered solenoid. so yes, oil pressure and the cam phasing maps on the ecu Rom are linked.


there was also a TSB that suggested checking the engine oil pressure before troubleshooting of the VTC system. that, and empiric replacement of the vtc gaskets (they are pretty cheap) seems to be a good step moving forward for most of you guys.

the passenger side VTC cover has been revised. there is now a larger oil gallery/reservoir thingy on it. the TSB suggests checking oil psi before you attempt replacing this...its an expensive 400 buck part

So do Nissan acknowledge that there is an issue with the vtc cover? I'm from the uk and none of dealers have heard of it over here. Why would replacing the vtc gaskets solve the issue?

no, nothing is said specifically about this issue. however, nissan did release a TSB saying that either low oil pressure, or a leak at the vtc cover gaskets can cause cam timing issue.

the degree of advance on the camshaft is dependent on oil pressure. loss of pressure would result in fault between ECU's target advance and the actual advance

Do you have access to a copy of TSB?

tsbs are on nissanhelp.com
fsm is on nicoclub/fsm

What is involved with replacing the gaskets? I have ordered up some new ones. £12. Is it literally unbolt replace gaskets and back together? Or are there other bits inside the cover that need to be replaced?