jtbinvalrico

Dropping in to say thanks for this how-to. I got this Dorman unit off Amazon for $84 shipped:


One thing to be aware of: Make sure you pull the cable a bit through the rubber grommet once you get it all in, otherwise the window might slap the wiring harness as it goes up and down, causing a funky noise.

sasuke

iTrader: (18)

I have an OEM passenger side windows motor for sale if anyone needs one. Please PM if interested.

graffkid732

iTrader: (44)

Will be doing this tonight. Plagued with a bad window motor on newly acquired 04 Z. Open the door and window comes down 1/4 of the way. Then have to tap the door panel to get it to come back up, but doesn't do the last 1/8-1/4" movement when the door shuts -_-

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

Looks like I get too change out my drivers side sometime soon.. That is if I want to open it ever again. Guess ill be using the ac till I fix it. The chain auto parts stores offer a lifetime warranty so I guess ill get one their. Unless Nissan has it for a reasonable price.

mnd7775

Well, finally went ahead and replaced my driver side motor today following this tutorial. Since I live at an apartment, this was a parking lot job, which usually isn't a huge issue, except for when Michigan weather decides to be itself. I had the door panel off in probably 10 minutes, that is when I heard the first thunder strike down its vengeance just west of me. Panic set in as the clouds looked like they were going to burst at any minute with rain. At this point I figured I've gone too far and would finish this today. Was able to finish everything in about an hour tops and it didn't even freaking rain. Some pointers, I taped the **** out of the window with duct tape, still have the glue all along the window, but I was not going to take any chances of that ***** sliding even a millimeter. I'm sure some simple green will do the trick. One of the last 3 screws that actually held the motor would not budge,so instead of using a screw driver, had to put some channel locks on the side of the screw to break it(didn't want to strip it). Lastly, when reinstalling everything, the only trouble I had were the "rail/regulator" screws(I believe they are in red on that one picture), took off the wood clamps and wiggled the window just a tad to start one, then started another, came back to the first one and backed it off to make sure it wasn't stripped and so on and so forth. Overall, pretty easy and fast job once you tape and clamp the window. One question I do have to you guys. Those little black stick on things, I removed some so I could get to the rails when reinstalling, any suggestions of how to replace them(duct tape, something I could get at a hardware store, do I even need them)? Thank you OP greatly for this How-TO as it saved me and many other people many $$$.

icer5160

iTrader: (4)

Hey mnd7775,

Regarding the plastic covers. I highly recommend keeping them. These do help keep moisture & dirt from mixing in with the interior of your care, specifically the door finisher (armrest). If you live in an area that's prone to high humidity and rain, it's good to have those covers.

I used a small amount of clear silicone RTV gasket sealer and re-coated the edge of those covers. Then stuck it back on the door, the RTV seals up nicely. This stuff is also easy to remove/cleanup in case of future work. The only annoying thing about this method is the smell. RTV is stinky! But it goes away after a day or two.

If some of yours got damaged during the work, you can order replacements for relatively cheap online or just make your own out of a similar material.
Hope this helps!
-Icer

mnd7775

Thanks! Wasn't sure as to what glue to use and will have to get some of that material to replace. Any idea what would be a good suplement?

icer5160

iTrader: (4)

I would recommend some HDPE (High Density Polyethylene). If you can find a sheet that's about 1/16" thick, that would work nicely. There's some on Amazon, but the black sheets are pretty large/expensive, there are some white sheets available that are smaller and of course cheaper.

HDPE is the same kind of stuff Milk Jugs and other liquid containers are made out of. Fairly flexible and easy to work with. Very similar to the OEM cover material.
Thanks!
-Icer

mnd7775

So what you are saying is I should just keep the milk jugs cut them and RTV them?

icer5160

iTrader: (4)

Yep, that should work. A lot more resilient and cleaner than using tape.

dfresh713

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for creating this tutorial. I slammed my drivers door (very hard) closed with the window down, and now it only goes up about a quarter of the way before automatically closing back down. I'm planning on taking the door panel off to figure out what is causing the issue. Anybody more experienced, know what I can expect to find as the issue?

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

Think you just need to reset the motor and you will be fine.. Their is a little button on the motor you need to press and put the window up and down. Might be able to get to the button by just removing the arm rest and the piece of tape covering it.

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

Here is a picture of mentioned button.. Sounds like your no pinch feature on the motor is messing up.. Good luck

zakmartin

My driver's side window motor finally bought the farm. I just wanted to say thanks to everyone who contributed useful info to this thread.

I ended up buying a Dorman motor from Amazon for about $80 (next day shipping included). I'm going to use the video tutorial from a few pages back and install new brushes on my OEM motor in case the Dorman replacement dies on me.

It was really a simple job, all things considered (i.e., the fact that I had most of the door panel covered in Dynamat Extreme andI had to use my X-Acto knife to find a few of the bolt heads.)

The one thing I did notice is that if you had both windows rolled down before and hit the Auto-up switch, both windows would close at about the same time. Now the driver's side, with the new motor, closes about 25-35 percent faster. For $80, I can live with that.

zakmartin

Well, crap. This morning the window went up all the way and dropped back down to half open again. I'll try the door reset button again and see if that does the trick. It's been working fine for about a week. I did a circuit check on my door switch and everything's working fine there.

So am I supposed to jam down on the reset button or just hit it until you can feel it engaging the motor?

Thanks -

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

I think you just push the button in and go all the way up and all the way down but dont push the switch into the auto down position. The motors have the antI pinch thing so its thinking something is blocking the windows path. Mine was a pain in the *** also I just had to play with it and it went back to normal.

zakmartin

Yeah, I tried that, along with the procedure covered by the FSM for my year. On a hunch, I checked the voltage on the hot wire going to the BCM with the car turned off and it was low. My battery was original and the car is a 2008, so the battery was due for a replacement anyway. I went to Nissan and got a new battery ($114 for a 770 CCA upgrade). Result: problem solved. I tested the window over and over and now it works like a champ.

I had a look at the brushes on the OEM window motor I replaced and they didn't look too bad. There was some muck in the cover, which is to be expected, which I blew out with compressed air. I plan to clean everything else with DeoxIT after I get the new brushes that I ordered. For now, I plan to preemptively replace the brushes on both motors and stick with the OEMs. I'll keep the Dorman motor in my parts bin for a rainy day or maybe I'll just sell it for $50.

Bottom line: Something to consider: if your battery is due for replacement when your window starts to act up, it COULD be what's causing the problem. Check your voltages to make sure.

Bill_350Zzzz

I had the same issue on the passenger side of my 06 Roadster. I bought a new motor off of ebay for about 100.00. This guy does a good job of walking you thru the steps to replace.

dfresh713

iTrader: (2)

Well took mine apart, tried the reset and it didn't seem to work. I took the motor off and played with it and now it works! However putting the panels back together so far has been impossible. When you guys reattached the track bolts to the inner panel was your window open or closed?

guitman32

iTrader: (15)

Usually with the window up but gotten them aligned and in with the window down as well...it can be done both ways. The trick is to get the upper and lower forward bolt and stud for the nut through the panel and the nut started loosely with aft part of the panel pried back slightly so you can get your hand in. Then once those are started, do the aft lower stud and nut, you can use a screwdriver from the side to pry it up and in position...it will seem hard because you may have to counteract the weight of the entire window and reg assy to shimmy the first couple in place.