Greddy Catch Can ...Hose Problem!!! HELP!!!
04-23-2010, 03:03 PM
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Greddy Catch Can ...Hose Problem!!! HELP!!!
I Recently purchased the Greddy/Cusco Catch can.
I Used all the brackets and provided parts that came in the box.
So, I followed the instructions and everything seems to be working properly,however this afternoon i noticed a loud hissing noise from the engine when it was parked and idling. I opened up the hood and noticed that the hoses going to catch can went from being ROUND to FLAT...and they were also really hot (which is understandble) is this normal?
I squeezed and pinched the hose back into its rounder ship and the noise went away, once I let go, the hose went back to Flat shape again. What do I do?....Should I just use a Rubber Hose instead?
I Used all the brackets and provided parts that came in the box.
So, I followed the instructions and everything seems to be working properly,however this afternoon i noticed a loud hissing noise from the engine when it was parked and idling. I opened up the hood and noticed that the hoses going to catch can went from being ROUND to FLAT...and they were also really hot (which is understandble) is this normal?
I squeezed and pinched the hose back into its rounder ship and the noise went away, once I let go, the hose went back to Flat shape again. What do I do?....Should I just use a Rubber Hose instead?
05-01-2010, 10:58 AM
#3
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It sounds like vacuum is causing the hose to collapse. That restricts the flow through the hose, which causes the hissing noise.
It's never "normal" for a round hose to collapse. It doesn't seem like the full manifold vacuum should be on the hose when the engine is idling, so I'd suspect the PCV valve isn't working properly. Maybe some trash got into the system when you installed the catch can.
It's never "normal" for a round hose to collapse. It doesn't seem like the full manifold vacuum should be on the hose when the engine is idling, so I'd suspect the PCV valve isn't working properly. Maybe some trash got into the system when you installed the catch can.
Last edited by winchman; 05-01-2010 at 11:00 AM.
05-03-2010, 01:15 AM
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I'm pretty sure nothing to into the pipes while installing. Are you telling me that I have to buy a new PCV valve? the problem happens not only when idling but also if I were to drive the car, pull over and open the hood...the hoses would appear to have collapsed.
05-03-2010, 04:35 AM
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Dude I have the same issue just installed mine last week and the hose provided gets way to soft from engine heat. I'm swapping it out for braided line it'll
fix tHe problem.
fix tHe problem.
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05-04-2010, 02:06 PM
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I just fixed mine today with raided hose
looks real good and so far no leaks but I havent driven the car enough for the engine to get really hot. But I'm sure the results won't change. Maybe just retighten the gear clamps I had to use when the engine softens them
up a bit
looks real good and so far no leaks but I havent driven the car enough for the engine to get really hot. But I'm sure the results won't change. Maybe just retighten the gear clamps I had to use when the engine softens them
up a bit
05-04-2010, 08:02 PM
#11
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I don't get the purpose of the catch can. When you're cruising or idling, the small amount of oil mixed in with some blow-by in the vent stream won't be enough to drop the octane significantly. Since the engine isn't working hard, the drop in octane won't matter anyway.
When you're running the engine hard, not all of the vent gases go through the PCV. The pressure in the crankcase is higher than the pressure in the intake manifold, so the flow (mostly blow-by with some oil mixed in) is back through the vent line into the intake system between the mass flow sensor and the throttle body. It never goes through the catch can in the PCV hose.
If the catch can doesn't stop the oil from getting into the intake (and dropping the octane rating) when you really need it to, what's the point of having it at all?
When you're running the engine hard, not all of the vent gases go through the PCV. The pressure in the crankcase is higher than the pressure in the intake manifold, so the flow (mostly blow-by with some oil mixed in) is back through the vent line into the intake system between the mass flow sensor and the throttle body. It never goes through the catch can in the PCV hose.
If the catch can doesn't stop the oil from getting into the intake (and dropping the octane rating) when you really need it to, what's the point of having it at all?
05-08-2010, 10:41 PM
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I replaced the hoses today with Dayco 3/8ths "heater" hose ...nothing special in terms of looks. The hose was nice and stiff, I installed everything and took the car for a long drive. I checked the hoses afterward with the engine still hot. I noticed that the hoses maintained their shape, and did not flex,or implode so I guess the previous hoses were just CRAP!!!
I'd like to add that Previously the Car was idling semi-erratic, I thought this was being caused by the "imploded" hoses and was causing an oil pressure issue?
After replacing the hoses I did notice the car to have a bit of a better idle....but still was a bit "jumpy"......could this be an issue with the hoses/catch can etc?
side note: i did install powerlab 3/8ths plenum spacer & shortram intake
I'd like to add that Previously the Car was idling semi-erratic, I thought this was being caused by the "imploded" hoses and was causing an oil pressure issue?
After replacing the hoses I did notice the car to have a bit of a better idle....but still was a bit "jumpy"......could this be an issue with the hoses/catch can etc?
side note: i did install powerlab 3/8ths plenum spacer & shortram intake
05-09-2010, 03:49 AM
#13
I replaced the hoses today with Dayco 3/8ths "heater" hose ...nothing special in terms of looks. The hose was nice and stiff, I installed everything and took the car for a long drive. I checked the hoses afterward with the engine still hot. I noticed that the hoses maintained their shape, and did not flex,or implode so I guess the previous hoses were just CRAP!!!
I'd like to add that Previously the Car was idling semi-erratic, I thought this was being caused by the "imploded" hoses and was causing an oil pressure issue?
After replacing the hoses I did notice the car to have a bit of a better idle....but still was a bit "jumpy"......could this be an issue with the hoses/catch can etc?
side note: i did install powerlab 3/8ths plenum spacer & shortram intake
I'd like to add that Previously the Car was idling semi-erratic, I thought this was being caused by the "imploded" hoses and was causing an oil pressure issue?
After replacing the hoses I did notice the car to have a bit of a better idle....but still was a bit "jumpy"......could this be an issue with the hoses/catch can etc?
side note: i did install powerlab 3/8ths plenum spacer & shortram intake
As for the erratic idle, have you tried and ECU reset and/or throttle body reset?
From Technosquare website:
Please read all instructions and be familiar with them before any attempts.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
ECU Resetting Procedures
Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON. A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
Operations Procedures
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.
Edit: Added the "Easy Method" for ECU Reset
The Easy Method:
After experimenting with different timing, and reading posts by other members, I've come up with a condensed method of doing this reset. This method works EVERY time, even w/o a stopwatch. I've used this method successfully a dozen times, or so, now w/o a watch. After a few times, you won't need a watch or instructions. You'll get so darn good at it, you'll find yourself doing it while waiting at a traffic light.
Timing is not as critical with this method...no stop watch needed. Just count in your head...one-one thousand, two-one thousand, etc, or use stop watch. The most critical step is step #3....wait 10 sec, instead of 7.
1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.
2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.
3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal
4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal
5. Count to 10, depress pedal
6. Count to 10, release pedal.
7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!
Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
Operation Procedure
1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Operation Procedures
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.
Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
Operation Procedures
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
Please read all instructions and be familiar with them before any attempts.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
ECU Resetting Procedures
Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON. A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
Operations Procedures
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.
Edit: Added the "Easy Method" for ECU Reset
The Easy Method:
After experimenting with different timing, and reading posts by other members, I've come up with a condensed method of doing this reset. This method works EVERY time, even w/o a stopwatch. I've used this method successfully a dozen times, or so, now w/o a watch. After a few times, you won't need a watch or instructions. You'll get so darn good at it, you'll find yourself doing it while waiting at a traffic light.
Timing is not as critical with this method...no stop watch needed. Just count in your head...one-one thousand, two-one thousand, etc, or use stop watch. The most critical step is step #3....wait 10 sec, instead of 7.
1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.
2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.
3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal
4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal
5. Count to 10, depress pedal
6. Count to 10, release pedal.
7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!
Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
Operation Procedure
1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Operation Procedures
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.
Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
Operation Procedures
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
Another possible solution in this thread-
https://my350z.com/forum/intake-exha...-problems.html
05-10-2010, 11:34 PM
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Cool. Thanks for the update. I just installed a different catch-can.. using rubber hose purchased from auto supply store (no issues yet).
As for the erratic idle, have you tried and ECU reset and/or throttle body reset?
Another possible solution in this thread-
https://my350z.com/forum/intake-exha...-problems.html
As for the erratic idle, have you tried and ECU reset and/or throttle body reset?
From Technosquare website:
Please read all instructions and be familiar with them before any attempts.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
ECU Resetting Procedures
Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON. A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
Operations Procedures
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.
Edit: Added the "Easy Method" for ECU Reset
The Easy Method:
After experimenting with different timing, and reading posts by other members, I've come up with a condensed method of doing this reset. This method works EVERY time, even w/o a stopwatch. I've used this method successfully a dozen times, or so, now w/o a watch. After a few times, you won't need a watch or instructions. You'll get so darn good at it, you'll find yourself doing it while waiting at a traffic light.
Timing is not as critical with this method...no stop watch needed. Just count in your head...one-one thousand, two-one thousand, etc, or use stop watch. The most critical step is step #3....wait 10 sec, instead of 7.
1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.
2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.
3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal
4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal
5. Count to 10, depress pedal
6. Count to 10, release pedal.
7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!
Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
Operation Procedure
1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Operation Procedures
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.
Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
Operation Procedures
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
Please read all instructions and be familiar with them before any attempts.
A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
ECU Resetting Procedures
Timing is extremely critical. If it is NOT DONE within the specify time, the ECU will not reset and the Check Engine Light (CEL) will continue to remain ON. A stop watch or an analog clock with a second’s needle will be useful.
Operations Procedures
1. Confirm that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
2. Repeat the following steps (2a and 2b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
2a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD).
2b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
3. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 10 seconds until the CEL starts blinking.
4. Fully release the accelerator pedal (while the CEL is still blinking)
5. Wait about 10 second.
6. Fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for more than 10 seconds.
7. Fully release the accelerator pedal (The CEL light will continue to blink).
8. Turn ignition switch to “OFF” position and now you can start the car. The CEL light should be gone.
If the CEL light continues to remain ON, repeat the above steps. Timing is EXTREMELY critical to resetting the ECU.
Edit: Added the "Easy Method" for ECU Reset
The Easy Method:
After experimenting with different timing, and reading posts by other members, I've come up with a condensed method of doing this reset. This method works EVERY time, even w/o a stopwatch. I've used this method successfully a dozen times, or so, now w/o a watch. After a few times, you won't need a watch or instructions. You'll get so darn good at it, you'll find yourself doing it while waiting at a traffic light.
Timing is not as critical with this method...no stop watch needed. Just count in your head...one-one thousand, two-one thousand, etc, or use stop watch. The most critical step is step #3....wait 10 sec, instead of 7.
1. Ignition "ON", count to 3.
2. Depress/Release pedal 5 times...hard and fast.
3. Count to 10 (not 7!) and fully depress pedal
4. Count to 12 (SES should be blinking), release pedal
5. Count to 10, depress pedal
6. Count to 10, release pedal.
7. Turn off ignition, then start engine. Done!
Accelerator Pedal Release Position Learning
Operation Procedure
1. Make sure that the accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
3. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
4. Turn ignition switch “ON” and wait at least 2 seconds.
5. Turn ignition switch “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning
Operation Procedures
1. Make sure that accelerator pedal is fully released.
2. Turn ignition switch is “ON”.
3. Turn ignition switch is “OFF” wait at least 10 seconds.
Make sure that the throttle valve moves during above 10 seconds by confirming the operating sound.
Idle Air Volume Learning (Throttle Position Learning)
It is better to count the time accurately with a clock.
Operation Procedures
1. Perform “Accelerator Pedal Released Position Learning”.
2. Perform “Throttle Valve Closed Position Learning”.
3. Start engine and warm it up to normal operating temperature.
4. Turn ignition switch “OFF” and wait at least 10 seconds.
5. Conform that accelerator pedal is fully released, turn ignition switch “ON” and wait 3 seconds.
6. Repeat the following (steps 7a, 7b) procedures quickly five times within 5 seconds.
7a. Fully depress the accelerator pedal (HARD)
7b. Fully release the accelerator pedal.
8. Wait 7 seconds, fully depress the accelerator pedal and keep it for approx. 20 seconds until the Check Engine Light (CEL) stops blinking and turned ON.
9. Fully release the accelerator pedal within 3 seconds after the CEL is ON.
10. Start engine and let it idle.
11. Wait 20 seconds.
12. Rev up the engine two or three times and make sure the idle speed and ignition timing are within the specifications.
Another possible solution in this thread-
https://my350z.com/forum/intake-exha...-problems.html
I tried the "technosquare" method 5 or 6 times in a row and I couldnt get it to work. Is there any easier method? Can't I just disconnect the battery overnight and have the ECU reset itself this way?
05-15-2010, 10:55 PM
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