blew up DE engine, need a new one so post away ppl!!
 

Pretty muich as the title says..

I have rod knock, and had to drive it like that for about ten miles to make it to Intense to leave it to die in the parking lot.

SO im sure my crank is toast now too. I woudl assume its best just to replace the whole deal, long block...especially since I have 103k miles on the rest of the car/engine/sensors/heads. Surely have carbon on everything already, maybe crappy lifters/shims.. who knows.
Price is a factor, ie this cant be a 10k dollar deal, more like 4-7k if possible.....but i dont not want to be here again soon.. so im looking to extende the life of the car another 100k miles here, and replace all parts that may soon fail as well

theres a million options, ebay, z1 crate, IPP, etc etc... no, im not doing an ls1 swap. Id love to, but this is my daily driver and i need the car back w no issues, not as a frankenstein experiment. Itd be great, but i cant chance it.

also ( and this is very important) theres no juicy threads yet this morning, so this is a gift for the vets to be able to puke out some knowledge in my thread.. help meh!

Any advice on who to buy a short block from?
Should i get one w upgraded rods so i dont have to deal w this again, like import parts pros crate?
Important thing to know before throwing your ideas in the hat is Ill never go FI now... i bent rods on bolt ons and a tune.. very lame IMO. I also will no longer have money left to eat already.. haha. SO yes, price is VERY much an issue.

Pete at Intense is swampped, and hes making calls too, but i felt id see what your engine buying experiences have been, who youd reccomend etc.

What is done to the motor that blew? NA / FI? Basic bolt ons?

If you do not have plans to go FI in the future, then I would honestly just find a longblock from a wrecked car. Surely you could pick one up for around a $1000.

thats kind of what im thinking TBH.

I figure i can find something in the 35k miles mark for around 1600 bucks or so and just swap the thing over.. Im not going FI.. i have ZERO trust in this engine now. Ive babied the car.. the clutch was replaced at 100k miles and when we broke it open, looked like it still had another 20k of life left...

oil changes since birth at 3k.. mobil 1, never missed ONE.. used lucas stabilizer too.
Good gas only.

engine mods are :
jwt pop
kinetix plenum
resd test pipes
xo2 exhaust
cobb ap stage 2+ tune
advanced timing 2 degrees
raise idle to 900

thats it. I cant imagine advancing timing 2 degrees closer to TDC would bend a rod at 230 rwhp....while driving to work.... I mean seriously.. its insane.
Not cool even.
Im actually personally offended at my engine right now.
Like, "how could you!"
:)

Didn't Cobb used to advertise not to tune with their software if ANY breathing mods had been done.

It looks to me as though you just about ran the gambit of bolt on N/A mods. Then went ahead and used cobb's most aggressive tune.

Did you have the car dyno tuned? A/F monitored?

I'll be pulling my VQ35DE in early August to do a V8 swap. Motor will have less than 30k miles on it. Here's a vid of it running as of 05/28.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MjWyesvDs3Q

yeah thats what i had thought earlier too, but before i bought it i called them.. stage 1 and 2 dont have MAF data to run heavy breathing stuff.. thier stage 2 plus is for specifically my kind of mods, plenum, test pipes, and intake w more air comming past maf.

Afr was failry flat.. im sure i was lean as hell before w no cobb...
w cobb the af was about 12-12.8 most of the time.. at wot it would get near 11.5.
From what i read thats decent.

Again, its bolt ons... how the heck are ppl putting the "magical 400 hp before a bent rod" equation together?

this sucks man...

(insert my pity party here).

thanks for the offer.. cant wait tho, this is my daily car.

http://forum.i3d.net/attachments/cou...em-oh-noes.jpg

Damn dude you havent even put the nitrous on yet and just have some bolt-ons....wtf happened??

Was this tune done on the dyno and tuner advanced it 2 degrees?

+1 on monitoring your A/F...

no tuner since its not osiris, its a plug n play reflash. 30 minutes in my driveway...Gave me some great gains tho... and while that may not be great.. i simply cant imagine that making me throw a rod, unless it was on its way out anyways.


but i had "valve noise" before the tune... searched and read on it... have oil in a few of the plug tubes too.. was going to replace the covers next week.. figured i had a misfire, started some threads on it even.
and it was this "valve chatter/misfire" that slowly got louder and louder over the weekend, started to sound like detonation, and then turned to machine gun fire, and then to a full rod knock.
i know, right? Can u imagine if my nitrous was in? ha.
Run one would have blown my engine and then we would all have blamed the juice. :)


oh btw, i had 2 stage colder ngk iridium plugs in since we were going to go nitrous in the near future.

*Looking forward to the teardown, i wonder what the autopsy concludes.

Bump for you.


Also what are your plans? Fully built N/a?

i know right?
i await the coroners report as well.
Thats another story.. i dropped this car righ in the middle of a very busy week for IMR.. theres barely room to park it there right now. SO i doubt they will start on it until next week or so.

Well, thats kind of what im weighing... do i spend a grand on a mystery long block out of a wrecked car, and then still spend 2500 bucks or so to install...
or spend 4400 on a long block from import parts pro w nice pistons , rods and bearings, machine work, balancing etc.. and wait an extra 3 weeks?

just totally up in the air.

Ah, ok. I am unfamiliar with the COBB tune...didnt know it used only preset maps like a TS mail-in tune. I would assume it still has the ability to custom tune outside of preset maps, though, correct?


Perhaps something to do with 2 step colder plugs combined with oil in the tubes combined with the aggressive tune?? Im just grabbing at straws now, but 2 step colder plugs on N/A with oil in tubes your asking for misfires

i believe it does.. i installed some sort of desktop software for it along w its map updater.. it data logs to Xcel format files....and also real time data logs, so i can read that soon too.

misfires equal detonation, and detonation at 2 degrees advanced cant be good... i agree w you on that.
Ive blown many a nissan engine over small stuff, thats for sure.
Ill surely replace injectors and the valve covers while im at it, engine mounts, etc etc.
I aint doing this again until at least 2016. :)

Oh it logs continuously? Interested on what all of it says.

Personally, if i were in your position, i'd have it built up. This is of course if you are planning on keeping the car. Otherwise throw in a stock longblock, and just put more money in an IRA or buy stock.

You could always do the install yourself and save money/time. I have never pulled the engine out of a 350z yet, but I have on several other cars. With all the write ups and info around here it shouldn't be hard to figure out how to swap the engine out.

get a used clean vq35de and swap it out..

YEP, I also though if the price was right on a used DE, we could pull it and build it and KNOW it was sound.. maybe some machine work.. at least some new rods and bearings etc.

petes getting some options today hopefully.. made some calls to see whats available.
I shall update as i find out more for sure. :)