Car won't start after rebuild.
 

I hate to make this thread...I just got my short block back from forged. Heads reworked locally. Just Put the whole motor together and stuffed her in. I got spark and fuel...she cranks over but doesn't run at all. I followed my Haines manual for timing then manual turned the crank a million times to make sure it wouldn't hit valves. Everything worked before I rebuilt motor I doubt a sensor is bad. Flywheel only goes on one way with down pin hole so that should be right. Any help would be great!

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I'm in the same situation right now.

Hope you get it fixed soon man.

What does the scanner say?

My little pocket scanner dosent read anything wrong

I have my whole front clip off the car. So no radiator and fans hooked up. I dunno if electrically those need to be on to connect a circuit. I just wanted to start quick then shut off.

Are you sure you have fuel at the injectors? I remember when I re-built the head of my old car it took a while for the fuel to fill the fuel rail back up. I had to put the pedal to the floor until it started catching.

I'm 100% positive

my guess is either valve timing chains aren't aligned or sensors aren't working right. ECU probably won't throw codes for wrong timing at cranking speeds.

My timing was 180 degreesbackwards on the intake csm sprockets..il try stsrting it again tommarow after I let rtv cure.

Check your valve cover gaskets, my car sounded like it wanted to start but just wouldn't kick over, turns out in the excited end of my motor build we put the valve cover gaskets in badly and one was torn and the other ballooned out the side. Replaced both and fired up first try

That's weird. Mine are good to go though. My timming was way fawked up. I think that was the problem..il update tommarow. Il take some pictures too.

The car will start just fine with valve covers removed so that definitely wasn't your problem. Maybe when replacing them you fixed something else like a vac leak in the plenum or a loose connector.

Timing being 180* out would post a big problem for the sensors when trying to read data and send spark.

So the car runs and drives great. Timing was my issue. Started right up. At first I heard ticking from the heads and I immediately thought the worst. But I also used a shyit ton of assembly lube and once it worked itself out it purrs like a cat in heat. The rear main seal I just put in is leaking already though..:dunno: o well ill fix that after I get back from FE school.

Drove for 20 mins like a boss
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Search this forum in regards to the rear main replacement. There are some tricks in putting them in without lipping the seal or dropping the engine again.

Will do. I think I can do it buy removing the upper pan and transmission but have not looked into it. I dunno what I did to frigg this up. I put the thing on while on the engine stand. Clean surfaces. Seemed straight forward. Won't know till I tear into her again.

O and if anyones wondering why in my final pics the timing cover isint burnt copper, I'm a big dumb animal and ripped it in half while fixing the timinf issue and had to go buy another one...don't ask..it was late and I was tired and getting grumpy.

Z looks great, happy you got her running

Thanks. Its about time I start breaking shyit again. Been down for a few months waiting on parts.

Doing a light breaking 500 miles. Attachment 452216

If you push the seal on straight when it is on the stand it will lip. When I rebuilt my engine i had a rear main seal leak. Got to a point where it was a steady stream of oil. After I removed the rear main I noticed that I lipped the seal which caused the issue. After searching the forum there were many posts on the best way to replace the seal. In my case I dropped the upper oil pan, removed the locating dowels and gently worked the seal on a slight angle to reduce the likely hood of it lipping again. Punched the dowels back in and put all back together. I did this in the car but was a pain in the butt. Need a engine crane to lift the engine and drop the cross member about 2 inches.