zimjig

Had to fix my battery brace because it kept coming loose causing the terminals on the battery to pop off. After fixing the problem I reconnected my terminals and now my car will crank to start but will not turn over. Did I blow a fuse? I posted it on you tube so you guys can see the problem.

zimjig

This what my battery looks like. Can you see the pic? I'm uploading from phone

UndeadxCorpse

There's a fusebox behind the battery that you could check the fuses for.

Here's a diagram for it, but it doesn't look like any fuses would be related to it.
http://tinypic.com/view.php?pic=el4g2o&s=7#.U3latPldWSo

Try double checking the terminals and make sure they're on the battery tight.

If you're near a place that could test your battery, I'd recommend taking it to get tested to see how good your battery still is. I had an issue with a car at work that refused to start until the battery got recharged. It took 136 minutes to recharge that thing.

zimjig

thanks for reply I don't think that the battery is dead mainly due to the fact I could sit there and turn the key and crank it all day and the car will just not turn over. I can doublecheck to make sure but did you have that problem with the battery where it would crank the starter but yet not turning over? I posted a video to show the example .

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Is the fuel pump priming?

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

Either no fuel, no spark or NATS.

zimjig

It'll be a couple days until I'm able to check back on the car. I'm out of town on business. I'll let you guys know if I'm hearing the pump prime.

JERZ350

iTrader: (2)

Yea I would check all your fuses. Is there any possible chance you dropped a wrench and it touched both terminals? A fuse might have popped during your work.

Jah70

Strong possibility the battery might of lost charge or dead. When mine was dead it would crank exactly like yours did but it wouldn't start until I got a jump and bought a new battery.

fklentz

iTrader: (5)

I had the same problem once, I connected my scanner and found that there was a fault indicated, I can't remember the code but I cleared it and it the fired right up. I think it's your fuel pump is not turning on. Every Z owner should have a scanner....

ishyne22

iTrader: (3)

put a jump on it... if its fuel pump it still wont fire up. I see an audio amp cable as well with a 200a fuse (pretty rowdy). my guess is your not running a capacitor and the amp has drained your battery below the cranking amp output needed to start the car. buy a new battery and a capacitor. also, check the health of your alternator. alternator is not needed during start up but youll just go through another battery if it isn't in good working order. good luck.

zimjig

Battery is fully charged and it still won't turn over. When I switched the key to 'ON' I do hear the fuel pump turn on. I got my UpRev Cipher to do a scan and came up with two codes: p1610 & p1611. So its the BCM that got messed up after reconnecting the battery and it's in lock down mode. What are ways to reverse it? That's really frustrating, I was driving the car around all day and it took me 5 minutes to fix the battery brace and reconnect the battery Edit: I cleared the codes and tried again, no luck...So I've disconnected the negative terminal to try and do a reset

UPDATE: The reset didn't work

Ringo7

Really strange. Zim, how exactly did you clear those codes? I didn't think the Cipher software would let you do that.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

so its basically NATS that is holding you up...good luck sorting that one out.

Jah70

These cars can be a real pain in the *** when they want to be. Simply changing the battery and leaving it disconnected for too long results in the revs dropping and the car shutting off. Aren't the newer Z's even more **** than the early DE series?

fklentz

iTrader: (5)

If the anti theft system has it locked down the scanner can't clear that. You can have it towed to a dealer and pay them to clear it or find a local shop that has a consult 3 with the NATS card. You can get a consult 3 and NATS hack CD on eBay for 400 - 600 bucks, just need a older Windows XP laptop.

zimjig

I clear codes for my CEL before I take it to get inspected. I have HFC's and the passenger side sensor always likes to give me trouble after a couple thousand miles.

XP? That's so old!
I'm going to haul my car up there myself. Thankfully I have a truck and access to a trailer I can haul my car on. To tow my car to the dealership is over $150 bucks using a tow company. F*** THAT!

JERZ350

iTrader: (2)

Can't he get it towed to an UpRev tuner and have them disable the NATS? Wouldn't it still be cheaper than going to the dealer and pay for their nonsense, and probably get a complimentary ding or scratch?

zimjig

According to the dealership, they say I need a new bcm due to it not being able to communicate to the key properly. I guess I managed to fry it :/