Vigman

So I bought a salvage z off E bay.. this is my first 350 but not my 1 st Z.

4 years ago I built a 1992 300ZX 2+2 Twin turbo and YES it's Calif legal !
( Son #2 swiped that )
3 years ago 2003 G35 coupe, still have, still LOVE.

Now this.... 108K, Salvage, 6 speed, vert with not much fabric left ...
And just really HACKED back together.... But hey it was CHEAP.

To date: ( Problems that I need some advise / thought's )
1) New top and 5th bow motor replaced..
SLIGHT issue, the top will not close all the way if it's not 100 degrees outside.
BUT with the slightest downward pressure on the very back the 5 bow motor WILL catch and pull the top finally closed. It's like that HOOK in the back of the top needs to be a tad lower for the motor to grab.

2) The air bag system was TOTALLY HACKED Drivers bag glued back together.. stuffed with news paper and vinyl sprayed same with pass side.
Seat belts tensioners were removed AND then did SOMETHING to the dash so the air bag light would come on for 1 sec then go out... giving you the IMPRESSION the air bag system was working... So 2 replacement belts, new seats ( with side air bags UN deployed ) Drivers & pass bags AND a new dash cluster that is ALL BACK 100%. Here is the question I understand that the milage in the cluster is stored on an EPROM in the cluster anyone know which chip it is OR a cost effective way to reprogram the milage? I understand you cannot reprogram it via the ODB-2 I/O. It's not THAT big of a deal 108 K VS 113 K but if it is not TO big of a deal I would like to do it.

3) The NEW cluster has the low pressure tire option which NOW talks to the Center gauge... and I have 08 rims with WORKING sensors ( all 4 verified at the tire store ) BUT I understand there is a receiver under the pass side dash, which speaks to the CAN BUSS. Question is the connector for that a standard for ALL 350Z's or do I have to either replace the entire dash harness ( or mod existing ) to make that work??


So far other things done Brakes all the way around, new nose, core support, radiator, completely CRUSHED water cooling hard line to oil cooler, replaced head unit with a pioneer NAV. front fenders, 1 tail light, 3rd brake light, 10 days of just de skanking the interior.. and a billion other little things... ( 1/3 of those are all the plastic rivets ).

I LOVE this car and am dedicated to " bring her back"..
It's currently in Daily Driver mode...

Any help would be fantastic!

First time poster, long time lurker..

Thanks
Mike

350Z Project X

iTrader: (2)

So the 5 bow motor try replacing g the brushes. There's a diy somewhere. I did it for mine. It's a PITA.
For the mileage issue you won't be able to change it and its a felony so I wouldn't suggest it. Lol. I just picked up a salvage 08 a few months ago for a track toy. I paid 4k for it which wasn't bad at all.

jmichzx6r

if you have to swap the cluster for any reason go down to your local Nissan dealer. there is a sticker that you can get for swapping clusters. this sticker is required by law for replacing an instrument cluster. it affixes to the driver side b pillar in the door jam. this is usually for clusters that are replaced with new indicating 0 miles but can also be used to document used cluster swaps. hope this helps

patrickoneal

As for the top not closing all the way...

I replaced the top on my 2007 roadster, and I had the same problem. I didn't even think to have someone press on the back to get it to close all the way. I lived with it for months before it finally stretched out enough to consistently close up tight(I replaced my top in the winter, hot days help more). I think the best course of action is to get it closed up tight, and leave it that way for as long as you can and let it stretch. Also, do not latch the front until the top is completely up and the latch in the rear has pulled the top down as tight as it will go. You don't want the fifth bow motor fighting the extra tension from the front latch.

As for the TPMS, I'm not sure what you're asking...

Was the car not equipped with TPMS from the factory? If not, that's probably not going to be the easiest thing to add.

I also don't know if the factory sensors are the same across all years either(aftermarket sensors can cover a lot of years and makes, but the OEM sensors from your newer wheels might not be a match for your model year). I know that the operation of the TPMS system changed in 06 or maybe 07. On those later model years, the center display no longer could indicate the tire pressures. You just get an indicator light on the cluster that a tire is low, which is annoying because it would be nice to know which tire. You might dig into one of the online OEM nissan parts catalogs and see if the tire sensors cross over for all years, or if there was indeed a change before you fight it too much.

Vigman

Patrick the top was changed out 2 months ago and i was " instructed " not to drop the top for 2 weeks.. which I did.... So in the So Cal sun it was baked to perfect stretch... and it is TOUGHT. I think I will look into just spacing the hook down ~ 1/8 of an inch and I think that will get it. I do not latch the front till the cycle is complete.

TMPS Courtsey nissan only lists 1 receiver 03~ 08 Product SKU: 40720-Z33001 $312.00 and the frickin ANTENNA is $150.00 ! ( I know I can get the receiver for 25.00 on E bay ) .. The car is a touring version I'm not sure if it was an OPTION in this model... and I saw an option list ( I think ) on the vin decoder here....

Vigman

Well not on the VIN decoder but the TPMS ( tyre ) sensor receiver doesn't SEEM that tough to hook up even if my harness doesn't have that connector So It's GND, BATT, ACC, switched power, ANT ( seperate plug in ) CAN buss HI, CAN buss LOW, Check connector and HAZARD... 8 wires on connector + antenna. I wonder if the unit if it detects a flat turns on the hazard ?? So time to suss out some pinouts. and maybe a bit O underdash diving...

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

If your car is the touring model it should be equipped with everything you need to get your sensors to work. You will need to take off the panel on the passenger side and ground out the green wire to reset the system, I'll link you the thread in a second. And that should work.

Maybe not or maybe I missed something because I skimmed the thread but did you try this?
https://my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-...ring-tpms.html

Vigman

Well I think I will dig into this later today... I did get all the original paperwork from the 2003 LEASE.. and the ONLY thing that HINTS it was an included option is the dealer paper work, New vehicle checklist. Product Explain / Demonstrate the following .. and the TPMS box was checked...HMMMMMMMMM.

Vigman

OK pulled the lower pass side dash.... I found the GREEN WIRE.. and also found the connector FOR the TPMS... but NO reciever NOR antenna.... CRIPES ~
Ebay here I come...

Mike

Vigman

Got the receiver for 25 bucks…. now trying to locate an antenna….

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

Damn here I was all impressed I managed to get my tire pressure monitors to work with that diy. If I had to do all that I think I would just removeI the light from the dash. When I called nissan originally about them they said they would try to get them to work for $140 but no guarantees I was like wtf is this the space shuttle.

Way to keep the motivation up.

Vigman

I LOVE electronic & mechanical puzzles..... AND playing "BEAT THE SYSTEM"....
It isn't "ROCKET SCIENCE" BUT there are " GUARDED SECRETS ". I'm retired so I can tinker with this for a LONG TIME... Most of the info is out there... Sometimes you have to piece it together....

Mike

Vigman

OK got the TPMS module installed yesterday and made a ground the test connector cable.
Today I will try this truncated procedure:

TPMS RELEARN
1st set tire pressures so the receiver can SEE and ASSIGN 4 tires.
Front – Left 37psi
Front – Right 34psi
Rear – Right 31psi
Rear – Left 28psi

a.) Locate the Tire Pressure Warning Check Connector

b.) Ground the " TMPS check" connector.

c.) Turn on the car AND START the car, not just turn it on.

d.) Interrupt the plug to ground circuit five times within ten seconds.

e.) Drive vehicle around at speeds greater than 30 MPH until the TPMS warning light stops blinking and turns off.

f) Clean up your wire and paper clip mess and reinflate your tires. The warning light should turn off with a little more driving
once the system knows your tires are inflated properly.


NOTE there an ALT on the tire pressures
RF to 34 PSI, LF to 31 PSI, LR to 28 PSI, and RR to 26 PSI.

Little EXTRA difficulty here... my son ( when swapping the cluster ) did the black electrical tape mod over the light..... So I'm hoping if I do this correctly I will get a report on the center cluster gauges... I have to pull the cluster later for another issue.. so we will give this a GO today...

Vigman

OK got it WORKING....
Here are some sub notes:
1) You need to get the tires up to temp BEFORE setting the tire pressures... just the simple act of driving on pavement wil increase the tire pressure so a brisk 4 mile drive would be in order ( and saves time ) .
2) I have 08 rims.. I assume 08 sensors.... the TOP TIRE PRESSURES WORKED the older ones didn't do SQUAT....
3) Once in the "learn mode" my tires calibrated in less than 2 miles.. once the pressures were correct:
1st time out 5 miles 1 beep seconds later 2 beeps. a few more seconds 3 beeps then a LONG LONG single beep. ( note tires were COLD ).

Changed tire pressure to the " older " specs.... never got ANY beeps.

Went back to the NEWER spec for pressure and within 2 miles I had all 4 beeps and the display came ALIVE.

NOW a question.... or 2
1) When the PSI light on the center cluster blinks. does that mean there is communication happening.. Prior to this ( no receiver ) the PSI was on solid.

2) Is it " normal " when the car is turned off then back on for the gauge to have the
" -- " for SOME of the tires or should it remember ALL of the tires ?

This is MY story... I'm sticking to it

Mike

dboyzalter

iTrader: (3)

Every time you shut the car off it kinda resets and takes a minute for the pressure to display again once you get moving. So thats normal.. Good job man way to be persistent.

Vigman

Just took it out again and confirms what you said dboyzalter....THANKS
Tomorrow... Put the antenna in the A pillar & button it all back up....

Vigman

Update.... A salvaged car is just that.. A POORLY repaired Salvage becomes a mystery.

So the Pass side low beam headlight all of a sudden stopped working...
Marker lights, turn & high beam were fine.. easy... must be bulb or ballast RIGHT??

I'm having my son to a fair amount of work on the car under my guidance.. so he can 1) Make some cheese. 1a) Dad can be LAZY 2) Add to his mechanical knowledge base ( training to be an ASE mechanic ). 3) Break the I KNOW IT ALL syndrome.

Long story short, ballast good, bulb good ( had them verified on the working side ) , fuse good, power good...( after 2 hrs... and him getting a bit hot under the collar ) ....

"Remember that side was bashed a bit harder in the accident you had to replace the squirter and it's sensor cabling since that got smooshed..Did you check ground ??"...

He grounded the ballast input side and things started working..
Chased the harness back and there was a WAD of electrical tape with wires just twisted together...where the harness was damaged in the crash..

All wires trimmed & soldered & shrink tubed..

VOILA...

Lesson learned....NEVER ASSUME..TEST EVERYTHING !

Mike

Vigman

David also had fun with the E brake system.... The cable was tightened ALL the way down and the last 5 threads were STRIPPED....So a readjust of the shoes ( which were WAY out , loose ) ... And the old hardened spacer, washer and new nut on the cable end trick... PERFECTION ~...I'm really liking the Z so far.....Flaw's N all ~~