A/C does not work and it's 95 degrees out !
#1
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Thread Starter
A/C does not work and it's 95 degrees out !
The A/C is blowing out hot air, in auto or manual mode. I have had 2 mechanics test the system and they say it has Freon and that the compressor works. I can hear and see the condenser working. The belt is nice and tight. The temp gauge for the engine temp work as does the ambient temp gauge. I was thinking it can possibly be the ambient temperature sensor, but the gauge on the dash is accurate. Any other ideas ? The car is practically parked because it is black leather and it is insanely hot inside the cabin.
Thanks in advance
Thanks in advance
Last edited by lmg1985; 08-23-2017 at 06:36 AM.
#4
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Thread Starter
The compressor works
The system has Freon
One wants $2xx to fix the problem but wouldn't tell me what it was and the other stated $8x to diagnose then extra to fix.
Last edited by lmg1985; 08-23-2017 at 06:37 AM.
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zakmartin (08-21-2017)
#6
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Generally speaking, if you don't understand automotive A/C systems, don't even try. And for god's sake, don't buy those ridiculous R-134a refrigerant kits from Autozone thinking it'll fix the problem, because odds are, it's just going to make things worse.
If the blower's actually working and you're getting good high and low side pressure, but you're only getting hot air out of the vents, there's a good possibility that it's either because the blend air door is stuck toward the heater core or because the climate control box isn't working. If the air was blowing at ambient temp but smells like mold, it's because your evaporator is clogged.
Fortunately, A/C isn't an expensive fix compared to other issues that can pop up on your car (unless you end up buying a brand new control box, which is $$$$, so stick with a recycled part if you can.) If you can't live with rolled-down windows, which of course, on a 350Z is a hit or miss proposition in and of itself, then take it to an A/C specialist.
If the blower's actually working and you're getting good high and low side pressure, but you're only getting hot air out of the vents, there's a good possibility that it's either because the blend air door is stuck toward the heater core or because the climate control box isn't working. If the air was blowing at ambient temp but smells like mold, it's because your evaporator is clogged.
Fortunately, A/C isn't an expensive fix compared to other issues that can pop up on your car (unless you end up buying a brand new control box, which is $$$$, so stick with a recycled part if you can.) If you can't live with rolled-down windows, which of course, on a 350Z is a hit or miss proposition in and of itself, then take it to an A/C specialist.
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iideadeyeii (08-22-2017)
#10
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It's almost certainly the controller (A/C amp). Little white box behind the controls with a ribbon cable attached. Very common issue.
#11
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iideadeyeii (08-22-2017)
#13
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Generally speaking, if you don't understand automotive A/C systems, don't even try. And for god's sake, don't buy those ridiculous R-134a refrigerant kits from Autozone thinking it'll fix the problem, because odds are, it's just going to make things worse.
If the blower's actually working and you're getting good high and low side pressure, but you're only getting hot air out of the vents, there's a good possibility that it's either because the blend air door is stuck toward the heater core or because the climate control box isn't working. If the air was blowing at ambient temp but smells like mold, it's because your evaporator is clogged.
Fortunately, A/C isn't an expensive fix compared to other issues that can pop up on your car (unless you end up buying a brand new control box, which is $$$$, so stick with a recycled part if you can.) If you can't live with rolled-down windows, which of course, on a 350Z is a hit or miss proposition in and of itself, then take it to an A/C specialist.
If the blower's actually working and you're getting good high and low side pressure, but you're only getting hot air out of the vents, there's a good possibility that it's either because the blend air door is stuck toward the heater core or because the climate control box isn't working. If the air was blowing at ambient temp but smells like mold, it's because your evaporator is clogged.
Fortunately, A/C isn't an expensive fix compared to other issues that can pop up on your car (unless you end up buying a brand new control box, which is $$$$, so stick with a recycled part if you can.) If you can't live with rolled-down windows, which of course, on a 350Z is a hit or miss proposition in and of itself, then take it to an A/C specialist.
#14
New Member
More complicated answer: you are leaking refrigerant from somewhere in a closed system, and that means you're probably leaking AC lubricant as well. Adding refrigerant from those overpriced crap kits they sell at Autozone doesn't replace the oil. Also, ambient air and all the wonderful water vapor it contains will slowly be introduced into the system every time you top off the refrigerant with the Autozone kit. Eventually, your AC system will dry out and quit. That's when things get really expensive.
If you have a proper AC inspection done with a vacuum and a manifold, and the pressures are good, then you'll know that there's no leak. Simple enough. If your pressures are good, then the problem's going to be with an ancillary part of the AC system (fan, tubes, fuses & relays, evaporator, climate control computer, etc.) According to the OP, the pressures were found to be in the correct range by two mechanics, though that's assuming my interpretation of "it has Freon and... the condenser works," is correct. Taking his word on that, any repairs he makes should be focused on parts of the system that are outside the closed pressure loop.
Somehow though, I doubt we'll be hearing back from the OP, so anything added to the thread at this point is purely academic.
EDIT:
Just noticed it's a '97 Corolla we're talking about here. Feel free to use duct tape and ice cubes
Last edited by zakmartin; 08-22-2017 at 03:10 PM.
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lmg1985 (08-23-2017)
#15
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Simple answer: you're putting a band-aid over a bleeding cut. Nothing more.
More complicated answer: you are leaking refrigerant from somewhere in a closed system, and that means you're probably leaking AC lubricant as well. Adding refrigerant from those overpriced crap kits they sell at Autozone doesn't replace the oil. Also, ambient air and all the wonderful water vapor it contains will slowly be introduced into the system every time you top off the refrigerant with the Autozone kit. Eventually, your AC system will dry out and quit. That's when things get really expensive.
If you have a proper AC inspection done with a vacuum and a manifold, and the pressures are good, then you'll know that there's no leak. Simple enough. If your pressures are good, then the problem's going to be with an ancillary part of the AC system (fan, tubes, fuses & relays, evaporator, climate control computer, etc.) According to the OP, the pressures were found to be in the correct range by two mechanics, though that's assuming my interpretation of "it has Freon and... the condenser works," is correct. Taking his word on that, any repairs he makes should be focused on parts of the system that are outside the closed pressure loop.
Somehow though, I doubt we'll be hearing back from the OP, so anything added to the thread at this point is purely academic.
EDIT:
Just noticed it's a '97 Corolla we're talking about here. Feel free to use duct tape and ice cubes
More complicated answer: you are leaking refrigerant from somewhere in a closed system, and that means you're probably leaking AC lubricant as well. Adding refrigerant from those overpriced crap kits they sell at Autozone doesn't replace the oil. Also, ambient air and all the wonderful water vapor it contains will slowly be introduced into the system every time you top off the refrigerant with the Autozone kit. Eventually, your AC system will dry out and quit. That's when things get really expensive.
If you have a proper AC inspection done with a vacuum and a manifold, and the pressures are good, then you'll know that there's no leak. Simple enough. If your pressures are good, then the problem's going to be with an ancillary part of the AC system (fan, tubes, fuses & relays, evaporator, climate control computer, etc.) According to the OP, the pressures were found to be in the correct range by two mechanics, though that's assuming my interpretation of "it has Freon and... the condenser works," is correct. Taking his word on that, any repairs he makes should be focused on parts of the system that are outside the closed pressure loop.
Somehow though, I doubt we'll be hearing back from the OP, so anything added to the thread at this point is purely academic.
EDIT:
Just noticed it's a '97 Corolla we're talking about here. Feel free to use duct tape and ice cubes
#17
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Thread Starter
#19
Registered User
Thread Starter
Simple answer: you're putting a band-aid over a bleeding cut. Nothing more.
More complicated answer: you are leaking refrigerant from somewhere in a closed system, and that means you're probably leaking AC lubricant as well. Adding refrigerant from those overpriced crap kits they sell at Autozone doesn't replace the oil. Also, ambient air and all the wonderful water vapor it contains will slowly be introduced into the system every time you top off the refrigerant with the Autozone kit. Eventually, your AC system will dry out and quit. That's when things get really expensive.
If you have a proper AC inspection done with a vacuum and a manifold, and the pressures are good, then you'll know that there's no leak. Simple enough. If your pressures are good, then the problem's going to be with an ancillary part of the AC system (fan, tubes, fuses & relays, evaporator, climate control computer, etc.) According to the OP, the pressures were found to be in the correct range by two mechanics, though that's assuming my interpretation of "it has Freon and... the condenser works," is correct. Taking his word on that, any repairs he makes should be focused on parts of the system that are outside the closed pressure loop.
Somehow though, I doubt we'll be hearing back from the OP, so anything added to the thread at this point is purely academic.
EDIT:
Just noticed it's a '97 Corolla we're talking about here. Feel free to use duct tape and ice cubes
More complicated answer: you are leaking refrigerant from somewhere in a closed system, and that means you're probably leaking AC lubricant as well. Adding refrigerant from those overpriced crap kits they sell at Autozone doesn't replace the oil. Also, ambient air and all the wonderful water vapor it contains will slowly be introduced into the system every time you top off the refrigerant with the Autozone kit. Eventually, your AC system will dry out and quit. That's when things get really expensive.
If you have a proper AC inspection done with a vacuum and a manifold, and the pressures are good, then you'll know that there's no leak. Simple enough. If your pressures are good, then the problem's going to be with an ancillary part of the AC system (fan, tubes, fuses & relays, evaporator, climate control computer, etc.) According to the OP, the pressures were found to be in the correct range by two mechanics, though that's assuming my interpretation of "it has Freon and... the condenser works," is correct. Taking his word on that, any repairs he makes should be focused on parts of the system that are outside the closed pressure loop.
Somehow though, I doubt we'll be hearing back from the OP, so anything added to the thread at this point is purely academic.
EDIT:
Just noticed it's a '97 Corolla we're talking about here. Feel free to use duct tape and ice cubes
Thanks to all again
#20
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You won't see it. Basically, if everything else works, it's the a/c amp. First thing you need to do is have a mechanic read the pressures with the a/c on. Saying "it has freon" means nothing. Reading the pressures can tell you a lot about what's going on.