The_Ghost

So, I was driving during heavy rain, and while driving through a neighborhood, I went through some rather deep water that I honestly had no idea was that deep. The water was probably 10", maybe a bit more or less. I have a CAI and it sucked up some water and the car died. I wasn't going very fast as I was turning a corner, maybe 10-15mph at the fastest. Can't be 100% certain, but I can't imagine I tried to turn any faster than that in heavy rain while going through what was initially only 2" deep water. This deep section of water was very short, and by the time the car stopped rolling, maybe a car length at most, I was back in 2" deep water.

Anyways, we pushed it to my buddies and called a guy over who helped remove the coil packs and spark plugs. After the spark plugs were out, we turned the engine over and it spit a bunch of water out of the engine. I can't say how much, but it was definitely a lot of water. But the engine turned over and there was no obvious sounds of distress or rough mechanical noises, and it seemed to be turning over smoothly. We turned it over until there wasn't anymore water coming out and the pistons/cylinders looked rather dry. So, we put the spark plugs back into place, reattached the coil packs and all applicable wiring and tried to start the car. The engine turned over, but it wouldn't start. One of the guys, who works on cars, said it sounded like it wasn't firing.

Now my question, any recommendations on where to go from here? I'm going to let it dry over night and hopefully the south Texas heat dries it out tomorrow, but if it it doesn't start tomorrow, what should the next course of action be? It is my daily driver, so I need to get it back into commission hopefully as soon as possible. Should I replace the plugs and try again? I've read a few other threads and the consensus seemed to be new plugs and MAF sensor, assuming no bent rods or other internal damage. Should I replace both and try again? Any recommendations?

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

Welcome and that's a hell of a first post. If you have a code reader, check to see if any codes are held in memory. Otherwise, you might try jacking it up, supporting it with jack stands and draining the oil from the engine as a precaution. It might reveal how much water got mixed into the oil before you try firing it again.

The_Ghost

Alright. If I drain the oil and there's a fair amount of water in there, what would you say is the next step? Obviously, put oil back in it, but from a diagnosis stand-point? Replace plugs and see if it tries to fire this time? Is there anything you could think of that the water might've messed up that would prevent it from trying to fire? Or would the computer do that to try and prevent further damage and need to be reset?

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

If you're serious about diagnostics, get someone with an UpRev Cipher unit, or good code reader to see if the on-board diagnostics are telling you anything. Understand that hydrolocking an engine is next to trashing it and tread carefully. You didn't mention how many miles are on this Z, or how worn the plugs and coils are.

The_Ghost

I honestly don't know how to tell the wear on the coil packs, but I'm replacing the plugs today. The engine has 165K on it, which probably makes it more likely the hyrdolock messed something up. The car shut off immediately after hitting that deep spot, I was at low speed, and I never tried to restart it until we removed the plugs, so hopefully everything internally is sound. What should I replace, besides the plugs and oil. MAF sensor? Coil Packs?

Atreyu'z 350

Your high mileage is going to actually help you at this point because of the decreased tolerances of your engine. So that's a good thing.. I would start by disconnecting your negative battery terminal, then drain your oil(leave the drain plug out), remove the oil filter, remove your dip stick, remove your oil fill cap, remove your MAF sensor, remove the air filter, and remove the spark plugs. Now let it sit and dry like this for a day or so. After it is dry. Put fresh oil in, NEW spark plugs, then try again. BTW.. Thanks for your well thought-out first post. It's appreciated, and if you stick around awhile you'll see where I'm coming from.

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

Before you replace any electrical parts, the question is: which parts got wet? What did the oil look like when you changed it out?

The_Ghost

I haven't actually had a chance to change it out yet. After I get off work today, I'm heading back to my buddies to work on it. The dipstick when pulled looks fine, its a dark brown color. The oil is due for a change, I was actually gonna change it this coming week. But it wasn't "milky" or anything.

The_Ghost

And nothing inside got too wet, the deep spot wasn't more than a foot wide, so I was through it quick enough. After I first went through the water and I popped the hood, it was dry inside. But I have one of those long tube CAI that hangs really low, so it sucked up the water. Now, after we pulled the plugs and turned over the engine, it spit out water everywhere, so some things got wet from that. But, the last time I tried to start it, just the engine turned over. It still didn't sound like it was firing. That's one of my concerns, that why isn't it trying to fire? What could be messed up that would prevent it from trying to fire?

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

To start with, if the intake cycle picked up water it could be cycled through the combustion cylinder. THAT would kill any type of gas/air mixture and also reduce the effectiveness of the electrode on your spark plugs. Too much water on the compression stroke is what bends connecting rods and destroys engines. What were you thinking in even trying to drive your Z in such conditions? The only thing really "messed up" is your judgement and the victim may have been your VQ.

rancor

If you are letting the engine dry out it would also be a good idea and take apart all electrical connectors that got under water. If there is any water in them it will reduce the possibility of corrosion. Also disconnect the battery and dont reconnect it until things dry out.

travlee

iTrader: (8)

My money says he has a high mileage paper weight now

The_Ghost

I understand how hydrolock works, and trust me, I understand what happens when a piston tries to compress water. And those "conditions"? 5-10 minutes of rain in a town I don't live in that has roads with very shitty drainage systems. I don't knowing and habitually drive in heavy rain with my Z. I try not to drive through any water with my Z. So, there's no need to preach to me about it. I'm here for help, I thought that what these forums were for. If you'd like to roast me, do so but at least be helpful when you do.

The_Ghost

Thanks for the advice, I appreciate it. Are there any particularly sensitive electrical components that I should pay extra attention too?

jhc

btw,
Leave the plugs out for a week and spray either WD40 (water-disipating formula #40) or throttle- body cleaner into plug holes. Lots. And hope you don't have a bent rod.

gl Amigo!

travlee

iTrader: (8)

The_Ghost

Plugged in an OBD II reader and the following 5 codes popped up. P1122, P1121, P0103, P0223, and P0123. The first two are related directly to the throttle body I've read, the P0103 is MAF sensor, and the last two are pedal position, which may be related to the throttle body from what I've looked up. Any suggestions?

Atreyu'z 350

Yeah. Like we said. Let the plugs and combustion chambers dry out and clean your MAF sensor.

The_Ghost

Alright, so we got the car running last night, following everyone's suggestions about leaving everything open and unplugged, so thank you everyone who helped and provided suggestions. We drained the oil and replaced it and the filter, cleaned the MAF sensor, and put in new spark plugs. There was a bunch of water in the oil when we changed it last night, so I'm going to change the oil out again soon. We cleared the codes with the code reader and she seems to be running okay, idle is constant around 750 after letting it sit idling for a little bit. Oil pressure is constant. There was a strong fuel/exhausty smell coming from the exhaust while idling, and it was kind of smoky/foggy, almost like when you start your car on a cold day, but of course it's not cold down here. I don't know if that was water vapor from water that may have still been somewhere in the exhaust system though. I drove it around the neighborhood by my buddies to see how it did under acceleration and low speeds. Only took it to about 30-35, but allowed it to rev to around 3500 in first and second gear. It sounded fine, there was no knocking or clanking of any kind. The only thing is that under quick acceleration, there is a whistling/whooshing sound, audible outside the car. I can't quite describe it, and I can't even honestly say that is an accurate description of the sound. Both me and my buddy heard it, and it is real short. Slow acceleration and once up to speed, it's not there. I haven't driven it back home yet, so I can't say how it does on a long trip. Is there anything I should check now and be on the look out for in the future as indicators something may be wrong that is just not clear right now?

dkmura

iTrader: (64)

You're fortunate that the engine still runs and will need to get it up to temperature and allow the internal galleys and ancillary systems to dry out. Maybe allow it to idle for awhile before taking it home with a friend following just in case. You'll need to check for places where water can accumulate in the Z33 like the rear hatch area, under the spare tire.