Passenger window no worky - I've replaced everything (and read/searched a lot!)
 

I've been dealing with the power windows all day - the driver's had a clunk and sometimes wouldn't go up, and the passenger would go down sometimes but not back up. So I REPLACED EVERYTHING! I replaced the driver's switch cluster, the driver's window regulator assembly (tracks and motor), and the passenger side window regulator assembly.

Problem is, the passenger side window does the exact same thing with the new system as it did with the old. It goes down just fine, but the motor can't raise it back up if I go all the way down. I've adjusted the tracks and checked the window fit, etc., all day. It will push it about 1/8", and then click. Then I can push the down button and it drops. I can use the up (not auto) and it does the same thing. Every once and a while it will barely, slowly grunt enough to get the window up a little and then very slowly raise it all the way up. This all happens REGARDLESS of whether I use the passenger switch or the new driver's side switch.

As best I can tell, there isn't any misalignment that would cause a bind. Both the original window regulator/motor and the new regulator/motor do the same thing. The door mounting plate doesn't show any signs of being bent. I've loosened all the regulator screws and the window still won't come up, the motor stalls out. I am out of ideas - what else is there to check? If it isn't binding, it's almost like there's a severe shortage of power actually making it to the window motor. Is that a possibility?

One thing I forgot to mention. This isn't a reset issue. The original motor did this, as does the new one. Both will be all the way up, hit the switch and zoom all the way down. Both don't seem to be able to raise the glass from the bottom. The few times they do, the window goes all the way up.

Questions-
Can you manipulate up/down the windows freely by hand?
Have you had electrical or body work done?
Did you buy motors that have the adj/reset switch to learn? and mostly-

Is the Pass window control switch depressed on driver side?
GL!

I can can "help" the window up, if I can get some fingers on it. But unless I power the motor, no, I can't move it, which makes sense, the motor is a worm drive gear, it shouldn't turn by pushing on the glass.

No body work or electrical work

The new motors have no learn switch.

The passenger switch on the driver's side is new, and the switch itself seems to work fine. Remember, the passenger window did this with the old switch cluster as well.

With the motor removed you should be able to slide the window up and down by hand fairly easily. If not, either the regulators need adjusting or wrong part. Until that is solved no motor will work. There are 2 10mm bolts on the slides. Loosen them 1-2 turns with motor off, see if you can gain smooth movement by hand. Since you don't have learning switches I'd be concerned about incorrect parts.

The original Nissan parts WITH a learning switch did the same thing.

Yeah, I guess removing the motor and checking would be next. Thing is, the window has no problem going down. doesn't even slow down, just drops.

I really should check the voltage getting to the motor at the harness. It is a new motor and harness doing the exact same thing as the old one - could it possibly be a bad wiring junction somewhere upstream, between the passenger door and the driver switch cluster, that is sucking up the power? Does anyone have a wiring diagram? I could assume it is the big red wire, but I'd like to know.

I'm not an expert but IIRC I've done 3 Z window motors. Rule out a narrowing opening due to regulator rails adjustment at the top by manually moving the glass wo motor, looking for binds on the way up. Honestly to me it sounds like your glass isn't level/plumb or square, will go down ok but not up. One side may be higher than the other and causing these problems. If it were mine I'd loosen all regulator bolts 1 1/2 turns, raise the glass by hand all the way then tighten top 2. Lower the glass by hand. Assuming it is in the correct position retighten all regulator bolts.

If it can be manually moved successfully but not under power I'd be testing electrical, but I've never heard a case of wiring probs on windows. GL!

I've done what you suggest but a bit differently. I loosened the bolts holding the regulator rails and dropped the window using the motor. Then I tried to raise it with the motor with the rail bolts still loose; my thought was that any bind in the rails would be able to move out of the way with the rails loose. But the motor still couldn't raise the glass.

Not exactly the same as your method, but wouldn't you think it would accomplish the same thing?

I'd still want to move the glass up and down by hand to feel resistance. Are the regulators greased properly?
Next I'd get 15ft of speaker wire straight from the battery and see if it operates correctly. The problem is either mechanical, electrical or both.

I don't have a trouble shooting chart for this, it may be in the FSM. Sometimes YT has some good vids.

I got grease all over me when I installed them, so not an issue there! :thumbup:

Any guess as to the correct wires in the harness? There's a big red one I suspect is the +12VDC, maybe the blue is ground?

What year is your Z? I can send you the link for the GW section of the FSM so you can figure out the wiring.

That would be awesome - I found most of the FSM online but not the wiring diagram. Mine is a 2004 Enthusiast

Found it! Your GW gave me a hint, thanks!

:tip:

I hope it helps and you figure it out!

Any update? Going through a similar problem

Well, yes actually. Perfect storm of things against the window working as it should, I think. So remember I replaced both motors, both regulators and the driver's switch cluster so I'd catch everything that could possibly go wrong? While I was in there I also replaced the monster door speakers the previous owner installed. Think "really big magnets"..... My replacement speakers were typical shallow-door coax speakers with a small magnet (i.e., left PLENTY of room in there!).

Turns out after spending a day with my head stuck in the door, the window was dragging on the speaker down at the bottom - it was dragging both on the old speaker I removed AND just as bad on the smaller one I installed. Nearly identical problem with speakers that are in no way dimensionally similar. So add that to the window motors being pretty weak anyway and bingo, window won't go up.

when you check the voltage - vheck it with the motor lugged in (not disconnected). I have had a wire frayed down to a single stand - so voltage eas OK, but it would not provide sufficient current to drive the motor.