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-   -   350z trunk won't open (https://my350z.com/forum/maintenance-and-repair/629537-350z-trunk-wont-open.html)

Xerix Oct 25, 2025 11:31 AM

350z trunk won't open
 
Hey, I've got a problem with opening my trunk. When I press the button under the trunk (where the license plate is) it won't even click, there is no other button in my Z to open the trunk apart from emergency latch. I've stripped the trimming and connected the actuator to the fuel latch and it works. It isn't the blown fuse because fuel latch and trunk release have same fuse. Where should I look?

Jimmy Mack Oct 25, 2025 02:19 PM

Have you tried the remote trunk open??

Xerix Oct 26, 2025 03:04 AM


Originally Posted by Jimmy Mack (Post 11140592)
Have you tried the remote trunk open??

If you mean the button on the key, I don't have an original one

icer5160 Oct 27, 2025 05:33 PM

The trunk release button/switch above the license plate could be bad or need to be cleaned (no click sound). I would start there. If that checks out then the actuator that operates the release lever could be shot (stripped teeth/gearing or electrical fault). It's pretty easy get to the actuator and replace. You could shoot for a used OEM one or go for an aftermarket replacement (about $50). A new OEM actuator is over $200.
-Icer


icer5160 Oct 27, 2025 05:35 PM

As for keyfobs, you can get cheap aftermarket ones and program to your Z without any special tools. Fair warning, I tried these once and noticed a significant drop in range when using the aftermarket keyfob, but they did work, I just had to be much closer to the car. I recommend purchasing OEM keyfobs (used if you can get them) and replace the shell with aftermarket if the icons on the buttons have rubbed off. You can find these items on Amazon or Ebay.
Cheers!
-Icer

Xerix Oct 28, 2025 12:52 PM


Originally Posted by icer5160 (Post 11140608)
The trunk release button/switch above the license plate could be bad or need to be cleaned (no click sound). I would start there. If that checks out then the actuator that operates the release lever could be shot (stripped teeth/gearing or electrical fault). It's pretty easy get to the actuator and replace. You could shoot for a used OEM one or go for an aftermarket replacement (about $50). A new OEM actuator is over $200.
-Icer

The actuator actually works, I've switched the wiring to the fuel latch opener and it works. I think it has to do something with wiring to the boot lid

icer5160 Oct 28, 2025 03:38 PM

All the trunk item wiring runs from a body bulk connector above the driver's footwell kick panel (above the BCM). The bundle runs from there under the carpet and into the trunk area along the left side of the interior body. Unless there was some recent work/modifications done (stereo or alarm system), or collision type of event, or water intrusion, then I doubt there's a harness wiring fault. There's always a chance for rodent damage depending on where you live, but this wiring lives primarily inside the vehicle until it exits the trunk and connects to the release button in the bumper above the lic plate. Usually rodents stick to chewing up engine bay stuff, but have been known to enter the interior through the AC inlet duct under the wiper cowling.

Since you confirmed the actuator works, then my money is on a faulty button/switch above the lic plate. If you had a working fob to test the rear hatch remote release, that would confirm it (at least in my mind). NOTE: Replacing that switch, if it is bad, may require removing the entire rear bumper (not fun).

I just remembered something. Check inside your glove box (behind passenger seat). There is a trunk lid opener cancel switch located just below the striker. Check this, maybe it's flipped off?

Good Luck!
-Icer

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