QuintonC's 350Z Build
11-14-2015, 06:48 AM
#81
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
So I got a new ECU in and had it sent to Dynosty to have the UpRev software and tune put on the ECU. They did a phenomenal job as always, got it out to me ASAP and I actually had the ECU the next morning after they finished the job (it came an extra day early).
So I get the car all buttoned up, ECU put in the car, ready to go. Wait until Friday morning to call a friend's towing company and they come to pick up the car. It took us a while to get the car on the flatbed (mostly due to the diffuser and not wanting to crack it or anything). But after running the nylon straps through one of the exhaust holes (single exit ftw), we were able to pull from the back of the car. My tow strap can't come soon enough haha.
So we get the car to Nissan, my buddy who is a master tech for Nissan comes out really quick to sync the ECU, and the keys are all synced. Awesome, hop in the car to turn it over and I noticed something strange. When the key is in the ON position, the fuel pump is running constantly with the engine off. So, the pump primes, stops for a split second, then continues to try and pump fuel into the engine without the engine running. As soon as I attempt to turn the car over, the pump turns off. I decide to have him plug his data scanner into the car and we check over the car and I had like 80 something codes. We double check all of the codes, all the crank/cam sensors, IAT, ECT, etc. Pretty much every code possible. We decide to do a sensor check and we find that the sensor are reporting static voltages, and will not mellow out as they should be, on top of that, the EVAP sensor is reporting no voltages. We double check with an ohm meter, and confirm that the EVAP is not getting any signal at all.
After we double check the ECU that's in the car, I noticed that it is a CY code, and my previous ECU was a CX code. I'm unsure if this really makes a difference, but the only thing at this point is that it's either the incorrect ECU for the car, OR the entire harness is pretty much toast. Leaning more towards the ECU given that the car ran fine until the last ECU died, and the ECU was confirmed toast, it would not boot at all when I sent it to UpRev.
Anyhow, here are some pictures from my trip to Nissan. Now I just need to find a CX ECU and I'll be good to go, or so I think.
As the tow truck backed up to the garage/got the bed to the door.
Finally on the truck after about a half hour!
Just a view of the WedsSports with a little peak from the Hipermax IV SP coilovers.
Sitting in the Nissan shop while we run sensor checks :/
I really need to space the rear out another 5-10mm
So I get the car all buttoned up, ECU put in the car, ready to go. Wait until Friday morning to call a friend's towing company and they come to pick up the car. It took us a while to get the car on the flatbed (mostly due to the diffuser and not wanting to crack it or anything). But after running the nylon straps through one of the exhaust holes (single exit ftw), we were able to pull from the back of the car. My tow strap can't come soon enough haha.
So we get the car to Nissan, my buddy who is a master tech for Nissan comes out really quick to sync the ECU, and the keys are all synced. Awesome, hop in the car to turn it over and I noticed something strange. When the key is in the ON position, the fuel pump is running constantly with the engine off. So, the pump primes, stops for a split second, then continues to try and pump fuel into the engine without the engine running. As soon as I attempt to turn the car over, the pump turns off. I decide to have him plug his data scanner into the car and we check over the car and I had like 80 something codes. We double check all of the codes, all the crank/cam sensors, IAT, ECT, etc. Pretty much every code possible. We decide to do a sensor check and we find that the sensor are reporting static voltages, and will not mellow out as they should be, on top of that, the EVAP sensor is reporting no voltages. We double check with an ohm meter, and confirm that the EVAP is not getting any signal at all.
After we double check the ECU that's in the car, I noticed that it is a CY code, and my previous ECU was a CX code. I'm unsure if this really makes a difference, but the only thing at this point is that it's either the incorrect ECU for the car, OR the entire harness is pretty much toast. Leaning more towards the ECU given that the car ran fine until the last ECU died, and the ECU was confirmed toast, it would not boot at all when I sent it to UpRev.
Anyhow, here are some pictures from my trip to Nissan. Now I just need to find a CX ECU and I'll be good to go, or so I think.
As the tow truck backed up to the garage/got the bed to the door.
Finally on the truck after about a half hour!
Just a view of the WedsSports with a little peak from the Hipermax IV SP coilovers.
Sitting in the Nissan shop while we run sensor checks :/
I really need to space the rear out another 5-10mm
11-29-2015, 06:03 PM
#83
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Thanks homie!
So a bit of an update -
Got the car running last Tuesday. I woke up super early and drove down to Dynosty to pick up the ECU. Got back to Bloomington (2 hour drive) and threw it in the car, had my buddy who is a master tech sync up the keys with the ECU. The car turned over, yes!
But - the car was missing on a cylinder. Couldn't find out what it was. Toyed around a bit with a few tools, automotive stethoscope, an electric tester of some sort (not sure, was my friend's tool, and he helped me out), as well as the Nissan data tool with the computer. We tried an idle air relearn to see if that was the issue, then we started killing the cylinders 1 by 1. But when we killed cylinder 1, it didn't sound any different. Weird... The stethoscope proved that the injectors were pumping fuel into the cylinder, so we used the electric tool (I have no clue what this is called), and that showed us that the ignition coil on cylinder 1 was not working. Pulled the coil out, and it was fried. Picture below of the ignition coil. After I threw another coil in there from an NV2500 (yes, this works, but is a hair too tall, but worked to get the car home for the time being as well as a couple miles of driving before ordering the new one), the car ran like a top! It had been so long since I've driven the car. So I hopped in, drove the car up to Plainfield to return the old ECU, got my money back, and took my lady for her first ride in the Z, and her first experience in a boosted car at that. Oh man, the sheer joy nearly brings tears to my eyes :')
Anyhow, I drove the car all week, up through Thanksgiving night, went black friday shopping with the lady, car had been running just fine, everything was going really well. Stayed the night with the lady on Thursday night/Friday morning, and then we drove back down to my place in Bloomington on Friday. Well, it was raining, and I think this has to do with what happened next. I was almost home, pulling through an intersection, and the car died. Super weird, it stopped firing on all cylinders, and it just flat out died. Turned the key over in fear that it was the ECU again, the fuel pump primed and the fans didn't come on high, so that was a huge relief. The car turned over and ran on 5 cylinders for the next mile to my house (had to get it home). Pulled it into the garage, unplugged cylinder 1 coil thinking it was that coil again, but it ran worse. So I believe the issue is another ignition coil or an injector. Will find out more this week.
But what is weird is that the ECU went bad on a rainy day, and the ignition coil fried on that same day. So for some reason, I'm led to believe that my car just doesn't like rain. I'm familiar with people using RTV to seal up the grommet heading to the ECU on the passenger side firewall, but is there anything else I should be looking for?
Obligatory pics or GTFO. Including my first pump pic in ~three months, gauges lit at night after a long work day, followed by ignition coil pictures.
So a bit of an update -
Got the car running last Tuesday. I woke up super early and drove down to Dynosty to pick up the ECU. Got back to Bloomington (2 hour drive) and threw it in the car, had my buddy who is a master tech sync up the keys with the ECU. The car turned over, yes!
But - the car was missing on a cylinder. Couldn't find out what it was. Toyed around a bit with a few tools, automotive stethoscope, an electric tester of some sort (not sure, was my friend's tool, and he helped me out), as well as the Nissan data tool with the computer. We tried an idle air relearn to see if that was the issue, then we started killing the cylinders 1 by 1. But when we killed cylinder 1, it didn't sound any different. Weird... The stethoscope proved that the injectors were pumping fuel into the cylinder, so we used the electric tool (I have no clue what this is called), and that showed us that the ignition coil on cylinder 1 was not working. Pulled the coil out, and it was fried. Picture below of the ignition coil. After I threw another coil in there from an NV2500 (yes, this works, but is a hair too tall, but worked to get the car home for the time being as well as a couple miles of driving before ordering the new one), the car ran like a top! It had been so long since I've driven the car. So I hopped in, drove the car up to Plainfield to return the old ECU, got my money back, and took my lady for her first ride in the Z, and her first experience in a boosted car at that. Oh man, the sheer joy nearly brings tears to my eyes :')
Anyhow, I drove the car all week, up through Thanksgiving night, went black friday shopping with the lady, car had been running just fine, everything was going really well. Stayed the night with the lady on Thursday night/Friday morning, and then we drove back down to my place in Bloomington on Friday. Well, it was raining, and I think this has to do with what happened next. I was almost home, pulling through an intersection, and the car died. Super weird, it stopped firing on all cylinders, and it just flat out died. Turned the key over in fear that it was the ECU again, the fuel pump primed and the fans didn't come on high, so that was a huge relief. The car turned over and ran on 5 cylinders for the next mile to my house (had to get it home). Pulled it into the garage, unplugged cylinder 1 coil thinking it was that coil again, but it ran worse. So I believe the issue is another ignition coil or an injector. Will find out more this week.
But what is weird is that the ECU went bad on a rainy day, and the ignition coil fried on that same day. So for some reason, I'm led to believe that my car just doesn't like rain. I'm familiar with people using RTV to seal up the grommet heading to the ECU on the passenger side firewall, but is there anything else I should be looking for?
Obligatory pics or GTFO. Including my first pump pic in ~three months, gauges lit at night after a long work day, followed by ignition coil pictures.
12-01-2015, 05:07 PM
#84
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Well, today I went and picked up another couple of coils from my buddy at the Nissan dealership. Double checked to see which cylinder was misfiring, and it is cylinder 3. Unplugged the coil to see if that made the misfire worse, and it did not. Which nailed it down to that cylinder. Switched a new coil in there, still misfiring. Seems that the issue is not the ignition coil, which is good (for now).
So next step was to check my AFRs, which are in the 16s at the moment, so it seems like an injector issue at this point. So I tore the top down and switched injector 3 over to injector 1 to check and see if the misfire hops to cylinder 1. Pending that it does, I have a bad injector.
Follow me on instagram for more updates on the car @quinton_c
Also some pictures from the tear down/before. Reassembly when I get home from work and then I'll fire it up to test out which cylinder it is.
So next step was to check my AFRs, which are in the 16s at the moment, so it seems like an injector issue at this point. So I tore the top down and switched injector 3 over to injector 1 to check and see if the misfire hops to cylinder 1. Pending that it does, I have a bad injector.
Follow me on instagram for more updates on the car @quinton_c
Also some pictures from the tear down/before. Reassembly when I get home from work and then I'll fire it up to test out which cylinder it is.
12-07-2015, 10:36 AM
#85
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
So some long awaited updates. If you guys follow me on Facebook or Instagram, then you've probably already heard what is going on.
After swapping injector 3 to injector 1, the issue did not hop cylinders. So injector 3/1 are both good. Checked the coil once again, and changed the spark plug just to be certain. Spark was good (after confirming with a spark tester just to ensure that the ignition coil harness wasn't the issue). After confirming that the spark was in fact okay, I feared the worst (it was down to compression or the wiring from the ECU to the injector) so I went ahead and checked compression and the compression was just fine. So now it was time to do a noid light test with the injectors (this is a freaking pain), but I had to do it. After doing this, I did not get any light coming through from the injector harness (which means that the signal is not being sent from the ECU to the injector #3 harness).
Followed the wiring back from injector #3 to the ECU and there are no cuts or obvious shorts anywhere. So my assumption here is that I am getting water coming through the firewall that keeps harming the ECU and shorting things out.
Going to try and get the driver working for injector number 3 and see if we can't get the car running on all 6 again. If not, I'll be saving up for standalone :/
After swapping injector 3 to injector 1, the issue did not hop cylinders. So injector 3/1 are both good. Checked the coil once again, and changed the spark plug just to be certain. Spark was good (after confirming with a spark tester just to ensure that the ignition coil harness wasn't the issue). After confirming that the spark was in fact okay, I feared the worst (it was down to compression or the wiring from the ECU to the injector) so I went ahead and checked compression and the compression was just fine. So now it was time to do a noid light test with the injectors (this is a freaking pain), but I had to do it. After doing this, I did not get any light coming through from the injector harness (which means that the signal is not being sent from the ECU to the injector #3 harness).
Followed the wiring back from injector #3 to the ECU and there are no cuts or obvious shorts anywhere. So my assumption here is that I am getting water coming through the firewall that keeps harming the ECU and shorting things out.
Going to try and get the driver working for injector number 3 and see if we can't get the car running on all 6 again. If not, I'll be saving up for standalone :/
12-07-2015, 11:01 AM
#86
New Member
iTrader: (13)
So some long awaited updates. If you guys follow me on Facebook or Instagram, then you've probably already heard what is going on.
After swapping injector 3 to injector 1, the issue did not hop cylinders. So injector 3/1 are both good. Checked the coil once again, and changed the spark plug just to be certain. Spark was good (after confirming with a spark tester just to ensure that the ignition coil harness wasn't the issue). After confirming that the spark was in fact okay, I feared the worst (it was down to compression or the wiring from the ECU to the injector) so I went ahead and checked compression and the compression was just fine. So now it was time to do a noid light test with the injectors (this is a freaking pain), but I had to do it. After doing this, I did not get any light coming through from the injector harness (which means that the signal is not being sent from the ECU to the injector #3 harness).
Followed the wiring back from injector #3 to the ECU and there are no cuts or obvious shorts anywhere. So my assumption here is that I am getting water coming through the firewall that keeps harming the ECU and shorting things out.
Going to try and get the driver working for injector number 3 and see if we can't get the car running on all 6 again. If not, I'll be saving up for standalone :/
After swapping injector 3 to injector 1, the issue did not hop cylinders. So injector 3/1 are both good. Checked the coil once again, and changed the spark plug just to be certain. Spark was good (after confirming with a spark tester just to ensure that the ignition coil harness wasn't the issue). After confirming that the spark was in fact okay, I feared the worst (it was down to compression or the wiring from the ECU to the injector) so I went ahead and checked compression and the compression was just fine. So now it was time to do a noid light test with the injectors (this is a freaking pain), but I had to do it. After doing this, I did not get any light coming through from the injector harness (which means that the signal is not being sent from the ECU to the injector #3 harness).
Followed the wiring back from injector #3 to the ECU and there are no cuts or obvious shorts anywhere. So my assumption here is that I am getting water coming through the firewall that keeps harming the ECU and shorting things out.
Going to try and get the driver working for injector number 3 and see if we can't get the car running on all 6 again. If not, I'll be saving up for standalone :/
Bottom line, I've had to deal with harness issues before to the throttle body, and first I thought it was an area with a welted wire, fix it, etc etc.... eventually fix it with a new OEM harness, once I took old harness out and inspect it better, I noticed the connectors on the clip were bad...another issue I had was with a loose PROefi-128 wire harness before, that I thought was a bigger issue elsewhere that after months I was able to luckly spot the cable was a bit loose from the connector.. electrical is just a real PITA...
There are few places you can get water down the firewall, usually a missing rubber cover, but its easier to seal those areas up a bit more...
Last edited by IIQuickSilverII; 12-07-2015 at 11:03 AM.
The following users liked this post:
QuintonC (12-07-2015)
12-07-2015, 11:07 AM
#87
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Absolutely, bud. I know that with the standalone I would need to keep my OEM ECU just as a backup. I've debated a new harness, but that's a bit of a last resort at the moment to be honest haha. Not really feeling like switching one of those out, but have debated pulling it and inspecting it all the way for sure.
I'm going to seal all of the firewall areas up with RTV as much as I can later tonight just to ensure if that IS the issue, that I fix it.
Thanks for being such a helping hand throughout this build brother!
I'm going to seal all of the firewall areas up with RTV as much as I can later tonight just to ensure if that IS the issue, that I fix it.
Thanks for being such a helping hand throughout this build brother!
12-07-2015, 12:08 PM
#89
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
As many terrible things have happened to the Z, I don't think I'll ever sell it. I may joke from time to time about "partout" or "setting it on fire," but she's my baby and I'd never let anything like that happen haha.
Knowing what I know now (most people here say that they would do it completely differently), and I think there are definitely a few things that I would do differently. But, I'm still happy with the direction I'm going and the platform I'm building on.
12-07-2015, 02:37 PM
#90
New Member
iTrader: (13)
Thanks, I really appreciate the support!
As many terrible things have happened to the Z, I don't think I'll ever sell it. I may joke from time to time about "partout" or "setting it on fire," but she's my baby and I'd never let anything like that happen haha.
Knowing what I know now (most people here say that they would do it completely differently), and I think there are definitely a few things that I would do differently. But, I'm still happy with the direction I'm going and the platform I'm building on.
As many terrible things have happened to the Z, I don't think I'll ever sell it. I may joke from time to time about "partout" or "setting it on fire," but she's my baby and I'd never let anything like that happen haha.
Knowing what I know now (most people here say that they would do it completely differently), and I think there are definitely a few things that I would do differently. But, I'm still happy with the direction I'm going and the platform I'm building on.
agreed, if you had kept it stock chances are nothin would have happened other than regular maint oil changes...hatch struts.... I mean...id be fine... but we go down this road to PLAY... and you never throw a punch without expecting to get hit back right haha...you keep going!
12-15-2015, 07:09 PM
#92
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
So the person that I bought my ECU from actually paid for me to get it fixed. Sending the ECU off to have a company look at it and replace the transistor within the ECU to get injector driver #3 working again.
Sealed up the firewall with a fair amount of RTV silicone to ensure that there is no water getting through to the ECU and shorting anything out. If something happens again, it looks like the issue lies within the engine bay somewhere. Where, I have no clue since I've done zero wiring in the bay.. but it will have to be tracked down for sure.
Regardless, Recaro SPG seats coming soon. Need to get brackets, then it's onto picking out a set of brakes for the track. Plans from there will be to solidify and make the car as reliable/comfortable/safe as possible.
So right now the plans are looking like:
Hopefully I can get these things finished soon! Cosmetics are obviously the least important currently, but are something I would like to do to get the car looking and sitting the way I had initially desired.
Sealed up the firewall with a fair amount of RTV silicone to ensure that there is no water getting through to the ECU and shorting anything out. If something happens again, it looks like the issue lies within the engine bay somewhere. Where, I have no clue since I've done zero wiring in the bay.. but it will have to be tracked down for sure.
Regardless, Recaro SPG seats coming soon. Need to get brackets, then it's onto picking out a set of brakes for the track. Plans from there will be to solidify and make the car as reliable/comfortable/safe as possible.
So right now the plans are looking like:
Hopefully I can get these things finished soon! Cosmetics are obviously the least important currently, but are something I would like to do to get the car looking and sitting the way I had initially desired.
12-15-2015, 09:46 PM
#93
New Member
iTrader: (13)
Nice bud, I hope that solves the issue, because its really the only "real" variable you've had to deal with, also..... I ...politely... must say that id look at an alternative over the AZTEC, maybe a Cf lip or a diff bumper... IMO that "Aztec" belongs on a 370z...IMO 
Last edited by IIQuickSilverII; 12-15-2015 at 09:48 PM.
12-16-2015, 01:15 PM
#94
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Nice bud, I hope that solves the issue, because its really the only "real" variable you've had to deal with, also..... I ...politely... must say that id look at an alternative over the AZTEC, maybe a Cf lip or a diff bumper... IMO that "Aztec" belongs on a 370z...IMO
It's essentially a glorified Nismo V3 from what I can tell haha. And since I plan on running the Nismo V3 rear bumper and Voltex sides, I think it will flow really well... especially on black.
I've also been thinking of running somewhere in this direction with the JDM flare kit. I'm not a HUGE fan of how it looks from the side, but I feel like with some proper fitting kits such as a louver from the bottom of the rear flare to the sideskirts will set it off. It looks like I would need to add a side splitter to the voltex sides however.
12-16-2015, 06:43 PM
#95
Great bumper choice! I have an Astek sitting in my garage waiting to go on this spring when I wrap the car!
As for seat rails, I recommend Buddy Club rails. Comparable to the Bride Super Low's but much cheaper. I got them for my Corbeau FX1s and love the height and angle adjustability.
As for seat rails, I recommend Buddy Club rails. Comparable to the Bride Super Low's but much cheaper. I got them for my Corbeau FX1s and love the height and angle adjustability.
12-16-2015, 08:45 PM
#97
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Great bumper choice! I have an Astek sitting in my garage waiting to go on this spring when I wrap the car!
As for seat rails, I recommend Buddy Club rails. Comparable to the Bride Super Low's but much cheaper. I got them for my Corbeau FX1s and love the height and angle adjustability.
As for seat rails, I recommend Buddy Club rails. Comparable to the Bride Super Low's but much cheaper. I got them for my Corbeau FX1s and love the height and angle adjustability.
That's what people on the 'track prepped z/g' Facebook group recommended as well. They said something about reinforcing the rails because the welds on them were weak, but that was only one person that said that. Have you heard anything like this?
Edit: Just ran through your posts and saw the APT Poly N3 version of the Astek. For the small bit of extra money, it looks like that's where I'm heading ^.^ I've not had very good luck with Fiberglass haha
Haha, no worries homie! I think I'll have to cut it a bit for the FMIC, but I'm totally okay with that.
Last edited by QuintonC; 12-16-2015 at 08:49 PM.
12-17-2015, 06:41 PM
#98
That's what people on the 'track prepped z/g' Facebook group recommended as well. They said something about reinforcing the rails because the welds on them were weak, but that was only one person that said that. Have you heard anything like this?
Edit: Just ran through your posts and saw the APT Poly N3 version of the Astek. For the small bit of extra money, it looks like that's where I'm heading ^.^ I've not had very good luck with Fiberglass haha
Edit: Just ran through your posts and saw the APT Poly N3 version of the Astek. For the small bit of extra money, it looks like that's where I'm heading ^.^ I've not had very good luck with Fiberglass haha
And yes, the APT Poly is a great deal. I bought VIS fiberglass one (used) right before they made that thread and am kicking myself. Oh well, fiberglass work it is...
12-17-2015, 09:43 PM
#99
Super Moderator
MY350Z.COM
MY350Z.COM
iTrader: (8)
I've read about the welds being weak, but I looked over them and had my father's friend (Chassis welder) look at them since he was over. They both agreed the weld's looked adequate, but I'm sure reinforcing them wouldn't hurt for the extra piece of mind.
And yes, the APT Poly is a great deal. I bought VIS fiberglass one (used) right before they made that thread and am kicking myself. Oh well, fiberglass work it is...
And yes, the APT Poly is a great deal. I bought VIS fiberglass one (used) right before they made that thread and am kicking myself. Oh well, fiberglass work it is...
12-18-2015, 07:44 AM
#100
Registered User
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
I've read about the welds being weak, but I looked over them and had my father's friend (Chassis welder) look at them since he was over. They both agreed the weld's looked adequate, but I'm sure reinforcing them wouldn't hurt for the extra piece of mind.
And yes, the APT Poly is a great deal. I bought VIS fiberglass one (used) right before they made that thread and am kicking myself. Oh well, fiberglass work it is...
And yes, the APT Poly is a great deal. I bought VIS fiberglass one (used) right before they made that thread and am kicking myself. Oh well, fiberglass work it is...
The APT poly is just a bit more along my line since I've never had good luck with fiberglass...
Keep me posted, I'd love to see how it looks on your car!
Thanks for the input! Do you have any idea where they were rewelded at? Was it just the connecting points between the bracket? Also, how low do they sit? I'm only 5'7, so I'm not too worried about my helmet hitting the roof, but I am curious how low I'll be sitting haha.