idrive_MD

iTrader: (8)

I plan to do full bushings one day, but not this year.

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

Great info from many, thanks to those who posted.

I was really interested in doing suspension bushings as well, mine have to be tired after 7 yrs and tons of hard use every which way.

Jgrizzle

iTrader: (7)

Say I have this: "most people blow the rear subframe and silicone comes running down the diff housing" Im not FI or anything and usually just do spirited driving. What kind of time frame should I look at replacing it i.e.

1) Holy **** your driving it like that?
2) Your fine for a bit
3) Just save up and have them all replaced to solid ones because its a noticeable difference (depending on answers to 1 or 2)
4) This mod wont help you because you dont track your car so just go with OEM

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

Given:
-Blown rear diff bushing
-NA Z

Spirted driving - you would notice wheel hop, etc....doing this isnt so smart, because now you have a diff stud just moving around in there......the diameter of the subframe hole is pretty big, but the hard bushing now has no silicone and you run the risk of cracking the diff cover......diff cover cracks and rear diff fluid flows out??? well ya ..not good to have no fluid in the rear diff...

Diff cover crack coming from stud location:

PIC TAKEN FROM HERE:
https://my350z.com/forum/engine-driv...e-install.html



now, daily driving, no sprited driving - 2) Your fine for a bit

Either way though.......its enevitable and you need:
3) Just save up and have them all replaced to solid ones because its a noticeable difference

other options OVER FULL SOLID are what i posted in post #12

I don't claim to be an expert.......but others, please comment....but i do know what i have seen and can see whats happening.....
-J

Jgrizzle

iTrader: (7)

Barney how much for the bushings and install?

Jgrizzle

iTrader: (7)

What causes the rear one to blow out?

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

well, my take is that the aggressive driving and poor Nissan design "for enthusiast".......most diffs have two mounts in the rear......Nissan's 240sx variants were two diff bushing studs into the subframe.........

the 350Z's single stud creates a 'moment' or some would understand a 'torque' off the centerline/driveline and that load can become quite great.........

Why the single stud??? NVH (Noise Vibration and Harshness).........if you look at their previous two stud designs on a 'sports' car, they were synonymous with having NVH problems and later in time blowing sub frame bushings (240sx)...

The single stud is a great design for the daily driven Z...........but for us enthusiast its weak sauce...keeps the Z quiet and keeps subframe bushings intact for years.....Nissan allowed compliance into their system...

not helping is the fact that the front bushings become weak/compliant in time/age from holding up a heavy diff.......and under aggressive driving allow the diff to move,rock and twist on the front ear rubber bushings..........

The rear OEM diff bushing is solid rubber and filed with silicone to avoid creep from weight.......rubber cold form/elongation and tear drop affect of the bushing itself........

it blows and then your car drives like poo poo.....

PREVENTATIVE MAINTENANCE FOR THOSE WITH A GOOD REAR BUSHING:
like i mentioned before............If yours IS NOT BLOWN.....and you are weary of dropping the subframe to press out the subframe bushing, OR do the C-clamp/hacksaw method then you could...

WITH GOOD REAR subframe bushing: in no particular order...
1. Install white line front bushings - I think the whiteline suk nuts but whatever....
2. install diff brace - like the SP one or injected performance one i posted. (help keep the diff from twisting....thus blowing the rear bushing.
3. or have a local machine shop make u front solid diff bushings only...
or
if your weary of the install, just purchase spl bushings and install only the front ears....(that would keep the diff from twisting, and blowing the rear silicone filled bushing), then later "IF" you ever do blow the rear, you will already have the rear spl sitting around for install.

Replacing the front ear bushings can be done with out the labor intensive rear install............
that install isn't really that hard......its simply remove and replace bolts...

how long this would hold up?? who knows for sure, but if you ask most of those that do have a blown rear sub frame bushing, its not really high miles, but more so age on the car and abuse/aggressive driving, etc...........which you could avoid with some preventative mods as listed....

-J

Jgrizzle

iTrader: (7)

Man you always have the best write ups. Its because of you I have a dodge avenger antenna on my car HA!.

My car is an 03 and I drive the hell out of it. Not abusive... Just hard. It also has 76000 miles on it. (I bought it 2 years ago with 30000). A couple trips to niagra falls, CT a bunch of times, Ohio, Ocean City and 50 milesround trip to work everyday. It sounds like depending on price this might be a worth while mod.

Barnabas

iTrader: (15)

from SPL I think its 220 for the set...

Im not sure on install since I am having so much done at once...

JasonZ-YA

iTrader: (60)

THANKS MAN...

LOL, ya i love that mod, cause it took a whole 20 seconds to install...

sounds like your having fun! awesome....ya man, would be good preventative maintenance............rather then it blowing and this mod become a "repair"........


at your mileage, keep an eye on the front translink and compression arm bushing...


-J

Barnabas

iTrader: (15)

http://splparts.com/store/product-info.php?pid37.html

$179

Kirks06

Let me know how that turns out Jake cause I am looking to do the same thing for my car?

AcidJake75

iTrader: (64)

Totally man - certainly let you know man...

vtchang

iTrader: (9)

Call me crazy but looking at the number of bushings that need to be pressed for the rear suspension completely turned me off, especially when a single bushing takes on average a hour.

Gonna give the Whiteline Plus Urethane Front Bushing Set a try when the coilovers go on, as advised by JasonZ-YA. (dude, your DIY are simply awesome. I still owe you a DIY for the roadster rear extender). The nismo hard bushing kit received a positive review on the forum but if im going to press some bushings, im going to press in some polyurethane bushings.

I'll try to take pictures/video of the bushings install and report back.

Waiting to hear on diff bushing install.

H.M.F.I.C

iTrader: (1)

ok... Barny threw me to this thread.. I haven't read all the posts but I'm the 2nd person that Hills garage has replaced ALL the rear bushings on the rear diff... AND added the rear diff brace.

I will start by saying, as some of you know, i bitched about the drivetrain in the 350z, 370z, g35 and g37 manuals. It was very hard for me to accept them because i'm spoiled by my s2000...Now... I shift fast.. very fast...and i need the drivetrain to react very quickly.

Everytime i drove the z's/g's it was like driving a dump truck and the whole sloppyness in the drivetrain turns me off...

I decided to upgrade my clutch for a quicker grabbing one and while i purchased my setup with my new flywheel, Barny suggested to purchase the Full metal bushing replacement for the rear diff and the brace... sure what the hell might as well right?

Frank had replaced my clutch, flywheel, upgraded the clutch line to the stainless steel, did the bushings and rear brace. Let me tell you from experience... I couldnt have been ANY MORE convinced that this is by far the best drivetrain mod *minus FD* i couldve done. Instantly, you notice the slop is gone. Frank never had ridden in a z/g with this mod so that was his first time that night along with my first time. He was amazed. He was so amazed that he's been talking about the first chance he gets, he's doing the same thing.

Have you driven and lets say you're in gear and you just simply push the gas, and it has the sliiiight drivetrain play like something is slightly loose and then it catches and the car goes? if not, you will DEF notice it after the bushings install because you'll realize right then and there that the instant push the throttle the car is tight and it just shoots.

I'm not exaggerating by any means. But now that my clutch is broken in and i've had the chance to redline and shift and play with the car... i will say that once i pop that clutch at red line, those tires are spinning... and the car just bolts... you can feel how there is more tq being applied to the wheels rather than being lost in the slop of the drivetrain.

I can't stress how much this change the feel of the car. It's more enjoyable, its much tighter, and i can guarantee you that shifting is much much quicker and will help reduce those 1/4 times...

if anyone has questions or likes to see my setup, please don't hesitate... you can even drive my car so you can get a feel.

H.M.F.I.C

iTrader: (1)

To note.. i have the SPL front diff bushings and the brace bushing.. I have the Injected performance passenger side brace. In My opinion... now this is just my opinion.. with the bushings already in, the passenger brace is perfect to withstand any tq and power when combined with the spl bushings.. BUT since we know there is the double sided braces... its up to you :")

JPsZ

iTrader: (62)

I too will be doing the SPL diff bushings, along with the whiteline subframe bushings. Since I'm there, I'm also going with the 60a trans mount from Z1. I will do a review once I get the parts from Z1. I'm excited. I think the diff bushings are a must for any Z owner, doesn't matter how you drive, the rear one will eventually bust.

AmorZ_Fati

iTrader: (2)

I have the Z1 motor,tranny,diff bushings.....love them... worth it

Alberto

iTrader: (14)

Drivetrain slop/lash, whatever you want to call it does not affect your shifting speed. Im not saying the mods dont reduce the effect or feelings form before, but to say that is silly. Im sure you feel the car is more connected to your inputs, but to go out and say it would reduce 1/4 times, well....

I never had a problem grabbing a gear before, call me crazy

What did you run before these mods?

H.M.F.I.C

iTrader: (1)

I haven't ran the 1/4 mile in this car. I'm simply saying these mods will help you down the track or even on the road as it will put the power to the ground quicker. think about it... getting power to the wheels through a loose drivetrain is like putting a few extensions on an impact gun to loosen a bolt...it looses tq with more extensions from being further away and looser with a few extensions. Tighten it up, you'll have more tq applied to the bolt from the gun. there are a few guys in the other threads as well who've claimed gaining quicker times with these mods.

You may not personally feel the difference as i do. You may also say that it doesnt effect the shifting speed. But for me it has. i've felt the sloppyness has prevented me from getting into gear as quickly as i do now. That is also why Z1 makes the tranny mount as well..."which i also should get" to help get in gear quicker. So essentially what i mean when i say i can shift quicker, it means that the car can go into gear quicker which allows me to shift quicker since the slop has been reduced. I also know you're not saying i'm not feeling more connected with the inputs.

I"m also going to get set up with the no lift to shift soon as well since it cuts the tq a split second to the coils to allow even smoother shifting.

and no your not crazy Alberto, different strokes for different folks i guess...