Is there such a thing as too cool?
 

Drove over an hour and a half this morning in 60 degree temps and had 155-170 coolant and 100 oil temps.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...o/9e9cc5aa.jpg

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...o/7ae20d96.jpg

On the way home in 70-90 degree temps it came up to the 190s and 130 ranges.

http://i20.photobucket.com/albums/b2...o/2d0e5b29.jpg

Soon it will be over 90 at all times so I am in no rush to do anything but I need to know where oil and coolant temps need to be (min to max)

Holy gadgets batman, I can't even read the post, I am seeing all the things that most certainly should have meant you should have rear ended someone by now, haha

This is what I usually see on a highway run just cruising

http://i178.photobucket.com/albums/w...5/IMG_0917.jpg

your oil temps definitely seems kind of low in temp

Multitasking!


That is very cool.

I am in Phoenix. It will be 110 average so my excellent cooling will be needed. I just need to know if i need to do something next winter like swap the thermostat and cover the oil cooler or something.

I'm running OEM Rev-up Tstat but you can definitely try cover the oil cooler a bit.
you want your oil a little hotter so it can thin out specially in winter

S.T.P. :rockout:

I was actually listening to Foghat on the iPhone.

lol

aluminum foil over the oil cooler maybe? easy enough to try atleast to see if that helps bring up your oil temps a little and its not permanent so should take took long either way

I'm an idiot

I am running Castrol EDGE Ti 5-20 due to high pressures (the reason for the aftermarket oil pressure gauge) which is leaving because it is only good to 100psi.

Damn gauges are totally black until lit so I did not know they sent the wrong gauge until after it was on. I got the 140psi gauge yesterday but it uses totally different connectors/sensors so it will be a while before it goes in.

http://motorcycleinfo.calsci.com/Oils1.html

A simple standard oil, for example a pure base stock, would be a single weight, like 30 weight. This pure oil would have no detergent additives to keep the engine clean. This oil would be relatively thick and difficult to pour at room temperature, and would thin out as the motor heated up. On a very cold day, say 10° below freezing, this oil would thicken to the point where you could not start your motor, and if you did, the oil pump could not pump the oil around to protect your motor. It used to be that to start their diesel trucks in the winter, truckers would add kerosene to their oil to thin it out. Then they had to hope the kerosene would burn off before it did any real damage. Today, synthetic oils that are rated 0W-40 flow normally down to 65° below zero and remove the need for engine block heaters or adding kerosene.

http://www.riderplanet-usa.com/atv/r...Engine_Oil.htm

http://www.audiworld.com/tech/eng96.shtml

"W"ratings- Motor oil essentially can be formulated within a range of thickness or thinness. That is to say, biased either thicker or thinner. Oil is known as a "Non-Newtonian fluid" whose viscosity changes as it's temp changes, unlike water that stays the same viscosity. A thin oil, like 5w-30, will flow great in cold when the engine is first started. In effect, it will not get too thick when cold but as the engine heats up, it will thin down as it reaches operating temp, ideally +212f (the temp it's SAE viscosity is measured). A thicker oil, like a 10w-40, will be significantly thicker in cold, to the point of inhibiting the engine from cranking and being lubed adequately as it warms up. That's how we arrive at the most common conventional grades of motor oil, 5w-30 and 10w-40. The "W" part just means that it passed a "cold cranking" test at very low temps.


Viscosity explained

http://www.upmpg.com/tech_articles/motoroil_viscosity/

regardless, 100 is too cold. you need to cover your oil cooler.

I actually got a friend here in Florida doing some fab work on a adjustable oil cooler shroud. It allows him to adjust the flow of air across the cooler rather simply.

holy crap, how big is your oil cooler?

Come again?

e30, you sure your gauge is reading correctly?
or maybe cause you dont have oil squirters that is preventing oil from getting hotter?
idk, just throwing out ideas

The cooler is a 12x6x5 three row Setrab. Nothing huge. I also have a big finned oil pan and am running a gigantic filter so there are almost 3 extra quarts. maybe I need less oil.

I just drove for about 20 minutes, parked in an underground lot and then drove slowly out through two levels. Water temp got to 207 oil to 170 it immediately came down to 190/120 when I got out into the street. Ambient was 87.

It is already 90 here by 1pm.

It made it to 97 in my backyard yesterday. Soon it will not be below 90 at 5am.

Since I am not throwing any codes I guess it is ok. By next winter I'll have it sorted.

If you are worried about the oil temp they make temperature sensitive valves. Get one of those and only have it open when the oil gets hot enough, and then close when it gets too cool.

The Mocal sandwich plate has a thermostatic valve.

what temp does it open at?

sounds like your system is just doing a really good job of cooling things since it was up to 170 in the garage.