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New to me 2005 pricharged z
I just bought this 2005 procharged 350Z. It came with the hall tech computer that's not being used they opted for an inline pump with what looks like a controller from ATI. I was wondering if anyone could tell me if I could just swap out stock pump for a 255 strip the other stuff out and run the hall Tech and be a okay
any help appreciated |
yes and no...
Procharger used a rudametric tuning solution with the pump and those electronic sliders. Essentially - depending on manifold absolute pressure (boost pressure) those sliders would adjust a voltage signal to the secondary fuel pump that is installed on the system. A tuner could dyno the car and add voltage depending on boost range to dial in a safe AFR to run at. The right way to do this is remove the secondary fuel pump all together along with the electronic sliders and get the fuel system back to the way it was stock. From there it would be wise to upgrade to a return fuel system and add a fuel pressure regulator and use a 255lph or 300lph fuel pump and let the Haltech control the fuel and ignition off a dyno tune. |
Originally Posted by bealljk
(Post 10980493)
yes and no...
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Originally Posted by Enriquez2000
(Post 10980494)
meaning
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Originally Posted by BluestreamDE
(Post 10980505)
I guess you cant read what he kindly typed out for you, huh... |
Originally Posted by bealljk
(Post 10980493)
yes and no...
Procharger used a rudametric tuning solution with the pump and those electronic sliders. Essentially - depending on manifold absolute pressure (boost pressure) those sliders would adjust a voltage signal to the secondary fuel pump that is installed on the system. A tuner could dyno the car and add voltage depending on boost range to dial in a safe AFR to run at. The right way to do this is remove the secondary fuel pump all together along with the electronic sliders and get the fuel system back to the way it was stock. From there it would be wise to upgrade to a return fuel system and add a fuel pressure regulator and use a 255lph or 300lph fuel pump and let the Haltech control the fuel and ignition off a dyno tune. |
Originally Posted by BluestreamDE
(Post 10980505)
I guess you cant read what he kindly typed out for you, huh... I typed 'yes and no' and hit submit reply (which I do quite a bit actually) and then went back and edit my post and OP went and replied to my post (likely confused and perturbed at me)...it's on me, not the OP...
Originally Posted by Enriquez2000
(Post 10980508)
ok thats kind of what i was thinking. Wasnt sure if the wally would overrun the regulator like the mitsubishi cars. Sounds like a return fuel setup is pretty much a necessity here
what mits did you come from? yeah - look into a return fuel system ... CJ Motorsports has the best setup on the market - unfortunately it's $1000 or so...I'm considering revising my fuel setup and if you are looking for a used one we could probably make a deal. Where in Denver are you? I ran a procharger for about 5 years / 25k miles before I went turbo and if you have questions dont hesitate to hit me up. Despite Bluestream jumping on ya, you sound like a good guy (but youre only 4 post in). |
Originally Posted by bealljk
(Post 10980511)
no no no ... this was a weird circumstance of events and it's totally on me ...
I typed 'yes and no' and hit submit reply (which I do quite a bit actually) and then went back and edit my post and OP went and replied to my post (likely confused and perturbed at me)...it's on me, not the OP... The 255 lph wouldnt over run the procharger fuel pump they run in parallel and I dont know that the OEM setup has a fuel pressure regulator (unless youre running one) what mits did you come from? yeah - look into a return fuel system ... CJ Motorsports has the best setup on the market - unfortunately it's $1000 or so...I'm considering revising my fuel setup and if you are looking for a used one we could probably make a deal. Where in Denver are you? I ran a procharger for about 5 years / 25k miles before I went turbo and if you have questions dont hesitate to hit me up. Despite Bluestream jumping on ya, you sound like a good guy (but youre only 4 post in). i actually live up in fort collins and if youve heard of PFI, brent is one of my long time friends and i do some tuning and stuff for him in the side. on the mitsus anything 255 and above on a pump can overrun your stock regulator so always go afpr. I wasnt sure if thats why these cars need a return system as well. the secondary pump while functional doesnt seem like it would be the best option. The guy i bought the car from had mac auto do all the work and tuning but had an untouched haltech so id rather get it going the proper way rather than piggie back. im always good with used parts if the price is right! 👌 |
Originally Posted by Enriquez2000
(Post 10980522)
i currently have a 93 eagle talon tsi thats been fully built on swapped to e85 and a 95 accord thats boosted as well.
i actually live up in fort collins and if youve heard of PFI, brent is one of my long time friends and i do some tuning and stuff for him in the side. on the mitsus anything 255 and above on a pump can overrun your stock regulator so always go afpr. I wasnt sure if thats why these cars need a return system as well. the secondary pump while functional doesnt seem like it would be the best option. The guy i bought the car from had mac auto do all the work and tuning but had an untouched haltech so id rather get it going the proper way rather than piggie back. im always good with used parts if the price is right! 👌 No FPR on these cars from the factory... If you're familiar with tuning than the Haltech will be easy to use. Remove the Procharger sliders and pump - they will hold you back and cause more problems than its worth. I have mixed feelings about Mac but overall a good shop and I think theyre better now that Mo-Fab bought the old man out. The haltech is likely a piggy back, especially if you bought the car in Colorado. Obviously with never seeing the car I don't know for certain. I don't know many people still running a procharger in Colorado on the VQ platform. I'm not dogging the procharger but it is very limited - you will see 12-14psi of boost at it's most. If you want more out of a blower than consider going to a Vortech or going turbo. If the 8-10psi it puts out now is good with you than run with it but Procharger and Stillen (roots) are the least scalable superchargers on the market. I'll shoot you a PM about my fuel setup. |
Originally Posted by bealljk
(Post 10980529)
Nice on the talon - always had a soft spot in my heart for the eagle setup - especially their last generation of body style … I know of PFI but that's about it. Do you know the guy who has the orange CRX on their website?
No FPR on these cars from the factory... If you're familiar with tuning than the Haltech will be easy to use. Remove the Procharger sliders and pump - they will hold you back and cause more problems than its worth. I have mixed feelings about Mac but overall a good shop and I think theyre better now that Mo-Fab bought the old man out. The haltech is likely a piggy back, especially if you bought the car in Colorado. Obviously with never seeing the car I don't know for certain. I don't know many people still running a procharger in Colorado on the VQ platform. I'm not dogging the procharger but it is very limited - you will see 12-14psi of boost at it's most. If you want more out of a blower than consider going to a Vortech or going turbo. If the 8-10psi it puts out now is good with you than run with it but Procharger and Stillen (roots) are the least scalable superchargers on the market. I'll shoot you a PM about my fuel setup. the orange crx is Todds single cam set up! the haltech i have is not used yet. Its the pro plug in platimum. Still new in box because mac auto told the guy he couldnt use it and installed the piggy back ati stuff with uprev flash. I want to ditch the old stuff(reminds me of safc for dsm) and put the right stuff in as it should have been done. i got the car for a steal (3k) but Mac auto in my opinion ripped this poor guy off. Why piggy back when you have a capable ecu they could have put in and tuned? It was tuned to about 380hp but drive belt was loose and shredded it as well as destroyed pulley so rather than fix it he sold the car(200 for parts and its going again) if you youtube el chapo prochatged 350z youll see the car. And probably spot the pump they mounted in the engine bay as well. |
Originally Posted by Enriquez2000
(Post 10980531)
the orange crx is Todds single cam set up!
the haltech i have is not used yet. Its the pro plug in platimum. Still new in box because mac auto told the guy he couldnt use it and installed the piggy back ati stuff with uprev flash. I want to ditch the old stuff(reminds me of safc for dsm) and put the right stuff in as it should have been done. i got the car for a steal (3k) but Mac auto in my opinion ripped this poor guy off. Why piggy back when you have a capable ecu they could have put in and tuned? It was tuned to about 380hp but drive belt was loose and shredded it as well as destroyed pulley so rather than fix it he sold the car(200 for parts and its going again) if you youtube el chapo prochatged 350z youll see the car. And probably spot the pump they mounted in the engine bay as well. ok - on the haltech - beaware, it wont pass emissions...if you require emissions up north you need another solution...possibly keep the Uprev around? yes, ditch all that procharger fuel stuff... damn! 3k! the haltech is worth $1500! Probably did piggy back for emissions … I know the pump very well... |
Originally Posted by bealljk
(Post 10980534)
lol small world - I bought Todds 4294 a few weeks back … he seems like a really chill guy and that crx is sick...
ok - on the haltech - beaware, it wont pass emissions...if you require emissions up north you need another solution...possibly keep the Uprev around? yes, ditch all that procharger fuel stuff... damn! 3k! the haltech is worth $1500! Probably did piggy back for emissions … I know the pump very well... im locked out of uprev.. macauto/new owner is the only one that can mess with the tune so rather than flash back to stock and purchase uprev licensing ill go haltech. i had to pick it up for 3k.. came with procharger haltech stillen exhaust and ceramic headers seibon hood(pointless on this car) so somewhere around 7k in parts and a free car to boot.. and its pretty clean. Just have to fix stuff i dont like(fuel system for example). i probably wont try and go crazy since its got stock internals and only needs to function with 9psi from the charger. Seems like anything above that causes problems on stock block from what Im reading. Ill just tune it to around 400whp and be happy. |
If youre in a county that doesnt require emissions than you can run the haltech standalone... I assumed you are in a county that doesnt require emissions?? If your county requires emissions you must have an enabled OBD2 port that tells the emissions that your car is compliant with EPA standards (ie catalytic converters & o2 sensors) and I believe the emissions system pulls your VIN number too. A stand alone deletes this ability.
do you know if you have wide band O2 controllers on the O2 sensors? You probably dont seeing that you're running rich and/or need to get the procharger fuel system removed and the haltech calibrated for the setup. Just keep the Uprev just-incase...I was running a piggyback haltech and had to get Uprev involved to remove/increase my speed limiter...so it's good that you have it. It probably doesnt have a secondary market so dont bother selling it. a few other people have run both a piggyback ECU & uprev. I'd keep your stock ECU just incase - you never know. 400 to 425whp on the stock block is about the best mix of performance and longevity ... it's 10 to 12 psi - you're capped at that and you'll need to switch to vortech or a turbo'd setup if you want more ... and you'll want more at some point in time. |
Originally Posted by bealljk
(Post 10980565)
If youre in a county that doesnt require emissions than you can run the haltech standalone... I assumed you are in a county that doesnt require emissions?? If your county requires emissions you must have an enabled OBD2 port that tells the emissions that your car is compliant with EPA standards (ie catalytic converters & o2 sensors) and I believe the emissions system pulls your VIN number too. A stand alone deletes this ability.
do you know if you have wide band O2 controllers on the O2 sensors? You probably dont seeing that you're running rich and/or need to get the procharger fuel system removed and the haltech calibrated for the setup. Just keep the Uprev just-incase...I was running a piggyback haltech and had to get Uprev involved to remove/increase my speed limiter...so it's good that you have it. It probably doesnt have a secondary market so dont bother selling it. a few other people have run both a piggyback ECU & uprev. I'd keep your stock ECU just incase - you never know. 400 to 425whp on the stock block is about the best mix of performance and longevity ... it's 10 to 12 psi - you're capped at that and you'll need to switch to vortech or a turbo'd setup if you want more ... and you'll want more at some point in time. now i understand why haltech wont let me anyone pass emissions. Not an issue for me but might be if i sell it down the road. |
Originally Posted by Enriquez2000
(Post 10980581)
The car has a wideband in it... with haltech i can wire into the analog input. I am pretty sure the uprev tune just needs tweaked, but Im locked out of it and would need to buy the cable and flash back to stock and start over from what uprev wrote back to me when I inquired.
now i understand why haltech wont let me anyone pass emissions. Not an issue for me but might be if i sell it down the road. When you install the haltech (assuming its a standalone) you'll remove the OEM ECU all together (I believe - someone will correct me if I'm wrong) so if the OEM ECU is out of the car than the Uprev tune is irrelevant. Yes, you should look into a dual wideband controller (one for each bank) and the haltech will autocorrect / auto tune your fuel based off a target AFR Map. Feel free to message me if you need a starter map. You will likely never out-grow the haltech ... the newer standalone and the new firmware updates provide quite a bit of goodies. Haltech is a great company and widely relied on in many car circles. I went from Haltech to Link last summer and I'm not unhappy with the decision but the Link is far far far more complicated. |
Originally Posted by bealljk
(Post 10980591)
Can you get a picture of the haltech? are you 100% sure it's a standalone?
When you install the haltech (assuming its a standalone) you'll remove the OEM ECU all together (I believe - someone will correct me if I'm wrong) so if the OEM ECU is out of the car than the Uprev tune is irrelevant. Yes, you should look into a dual wideband controller (one for each bank) and the haltech will autocorrect / auto tune your fuel based off a target AFR Map. Feel free to message me if you need a starter map. You will likely never out-grow the haltech ... the newer standalone and the new firmware updates provide quite a bit of goodies. Haltech is a great company and widely relied on in many car circles. I went from Haltech to Link last summer and I'm not unhappy with the decision but the Link is far far far more complicated. Haltech! |
Originally Posted by bealljk
(Post 10980591)
You will likely never out-grow the haltech ... the newer standalone and the new firmware updates provide quite a bit of goodies. Haltech is a great company and widely relied on in many car circles. I went from Haltech to Link last summer and I'm not unhappy with the decision but the Link is far far far more complicated.
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Car also came with a set of 25 and 40 tooth pulleys which ive read is 11psi. Sounds like i need to swap those in!
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