^----- yes it's set up old school style, under the gas pedal!

 

I have a base model lol so I dont even have cruise control.... that would be perfect for me if I could find a steering wheel with the cruise control buttons

 

I actually fount out what pins it would be but i haven done a testing my self to see how to run the wires!

 

Please tell me someone here is not using a WOT switch on a drive-by-wire setup. Maybe I was reading this posts wrong. Man I hope so

 

I dont think it is a good idea to incorporate the NOS system in with the cruise control. First what is the amperage draw on the circuit, how involves is the circuit and man.... I would just keep the NOS seperate from the car altogether.... I see a headache coming on if something goes wrong with the circuit. Burn up some stuff. That would suck!! My system is completely isolated. Window switch, and TPS switch. I am going to use a progressive controller, ramp it in nice an easy

 

Hell yea I'm using a WOT switch... Y-not? You probably spent a **** load of money on a zex kit; just to get a little box that does what a WOT does. I pieced together my kit for $200; and it looks and performs just as if not better then a ZEX kit!

 

the cruise should not support the system but rather trigger a relay that is rated for whatever amperage draw you require.by using a bank of relays you can operate all aspects of your system with any switch you desire.

 

Thank you .... someone who knows what he's talking about! as long as the relay is after all your safety switches your ok. The relay should be right before you selinoids.

 

The throttle body butterfly flap only opens up to 92 degrees at wide open throttle (WOT) and not a full 100 degrees on the stock ECU setup. The only way you can get the throttle body to open up to a full 100 degrees is to reflash the ECU. Therefore, the ECU does not think it is at WOT and also thinks not to go into open loop. The ECU is still in cloosed loop mode. Unless you have an engine management system that by-passes the ECU at a certain RPM threshold at WOT. If the ECU is not in open loop and it is in closed loop than the timing will be off when you are on the squeeze. The ECU is not giving everything it's got (all the gas and back timing) and the car is not on a load. Obviously it is going to be catastrophic for the engine. Man, there is so many posts, advertisments, and just plain info that you get where it is stressed that a TPS signal wire is a must for fuel injected cars and never a WOT switch unless you got some 1992 integra. But, you don't... it is a 350Z drive by wire and you dont know exactly where WOT is. And don't say "when the gas pedal is to the floor" you can clearly see there is a sensor located on the gas pedal. The ECU and TPS has to let you know when it is OK to engage NOS. A RPM window switch is not needed, but for a few bucks to make sure it does not get engaged under 2500 rpm's, it's just not worth blowing up an engine. If you drive a 350Z you have the extra few bucks to drop in to make your engine safe. And no I do not have a ZEX I have a piece together kit with all of the added safety. Even a device that allows me to pull back a little bit of timing. You may need to pull a half deg. or even up to 2 deg. of timing. I reflashed the ECU and have standard NOS kit you can pick up for cheap with TPS switch, RPM window switch, and 1 degree cooler plug that is copper that I shorten up the gap on it ( 0.036 ) to ward off detonation.

Who likes a ZEX purple bottle anyways... I much rather have black or blue

(hahaha)

 

lol $200 on your whole setup. wow aka boom a window switch is a must and you probably dont have one going cheap with anything is just an awful idea ... especially anything that has the ability to destroy your engine

 

When it comes to nitrous, there's no such thing as too much safety equipment. Seeing people buy a couple manual switches, a couple relays, a solenoid or two, a line and a bottle, thinking they're good to go makes me cringe.

These items really should be standard:

- window switch
(otherwise, you can be at WOT at 1,500rpm)
- fuel pressure safety switch
(otherwise, little fuel - lean - temperature soars - boom)
- WOT or TPS switch - electronically controlled
(you can accidentally hit a button at idle - you can slip off the button in the throttle)
- progressive control
(because spraying a "100-shot" at 3000rpm is actually spraying a 200-shot)
- 2 solenoids for dry, 4 solenoids for wet
(run nitrous solenoids in series, and fuel solenoids in parallel - nitrous solenoid sticks open, you're good, fuel solenoid sticks closed, you're good - check all solenoids every so often)

 

I'm not sure If you understand the way I have the kit setup. Yes I do have the WOT switch under the pedal, But that switch is ran in series to an activation switch. The juice will not spray untill I have flipped that activation switch. All I have to do is follow my RPM's and flip the switch once I'm past 3000 RPM's; But even If I flipp the switch and the pedal isn't all the way down, the juice will not spray. It works the same as a TPS switch. I havent had any problems using this. In the future i might go to a TPS switch, RPM window switch and a progressive controller, But I dont plan on spraying too much longer so I would hate to invest more money on a set up that works already.

 

^ what.... your blown dude! your previous car must have been a 5.0 mustang or somthing! ..lol

 

TeAm PrOSpEc i will be the first to say that you are a complete idiot and dont offer anything but biased and mostly incorrect information to the forum. some of your first posts on this site were insulting my setup and after 400 posts, it doesnt look like you have gained any knowledge but continous smartass posts.

i will be asking for a mod to ban shortly.

 

The only thing blown without the above will be your relatively weak VQ, haha. Just trying to save a noob some heartache and some money...

Previous cars, BTW:

2000 Corvette Convertible - stock
2002 SS Camaro - cam/nitrous (125-shot)
2005 GTO - nitrous (150-shot)

 

A dude I'm not even gonna get into a pissing contest with you. Lets see some of your numbers from your VQ, cause I can almost bet money on it that im putting better numbers up then you are. If i'm not I have a 432hp 360fptq turbo RSX that will do the job; and the word noob shouldn't come out of your mouth untill you get that measley post count up and add some time to your join date....
but thanks for the info buddy!

 

Wow, talk about comparing apples to oranges.

The amount of additional accessories you have does not equal higher numbers, but rather more safety. In addition, dynos will read different depending on the machine, condition, calibration, type, etc. If you're talking about power when you're talking about safety items, you're the noob (team prospec & realdealg35). On top of that, you're talking about how your RSX is faster and blah blah. Well, I have a friend of a friend of a cousin's dog's previous owner who has a Veyron and he could beat you.

Please, everybody, if you don't have anything to contribute, keep your opinions to yourselves. Also, most of you joined in 2007, so I guess you're all noobs to me.

 

Referring to your VQ being weak isn't a personal attack - it's the truth. You have to be MUCH more careful getting power out of a VQ than you do... a lot of other motors - ESPECIALLY from what I'm used to: LSx motors that can handle 600rwhp all day on the stock internals. Stock VQ's are ticking timebombs over 450rwhp. Would you feel comfortable spraying a 200-shot untuned on your VQ? That's what you're doing with your on/off 100-shot at 3000rpm for ONE example.

I'm not telling you what to do, but I am encouraging you to take the proper safety precautions with nitrous if you don't feel like rebuilding your VQ after a little solenoid malfunction. Nitrous parts are relatively cheap compared to the cost and time to rebuild a blown VQ. When things go wrong with nitrous, they go wrong BIG and EXPENSIVE.

The above is sound advice from a someone who has been there, done that a LOT more than you, obviously. The following is a jab: 430whp RSX = Cars I've owned/built (nitrous-powered - oh the irony) would pull buslengths on that unit.

 

Concerning safety features and power: thanks, Captain Obvious. The only thing I said about anything relating to power is that a progressive controller will ramp up the nitrous and soften the initial hit. When someone says a 100-shot, that's just a power figure you will realize at high rpm with a certain amount of nitrous. Cut the rpm in half (not progressive), and you're eating twice the amount of nitrous per engine cycle, or a 200-shot, and LOTS of stress on the motor. Why else do you think on/off nitrous makes monster torque at low rpm? Why do you think this is absent with a progressive controller programmed to ramp up the nitrous?

Why do almost all standard wet kits have an initial lean hit? You know you CAN fix this, right?

How is running sets of solenoids a bad idea?

Are you saying a window switch is a bad idea?

Don't think that just because I joined in '07 that I haven't been spraying cars for years. How about you just raise a flag about something I've said? If it has to do with nitrous, I've either done it, or have buddies that have that I ask questions to - Sandy Wilkins, Top Sportsman IHRA Champion (nitrous Chevy small block) for one example...

"Moderator" does not equal "knowledgable."

 

First of all, back off. I only posted to tell you two naggers to keep your bickering to a minimum. I never claimed to be "knowledgeable." Oh my god, you're so knowledgeable about nitrous and your friends too!?! Who cares?

Quit your bitchings and bragging and whatever else to a minimum. I'm not asking again.

BTW, I never disagreed nor agreed with you. I do happen to agree with you on certain things, so I'm not sure why you're even questioning my knowledge. Again, whatever you're saying has been discussed before and it's not like you're the only one who knows about all this. Also, I disagree with some of the things team prospec said. I'll just leave it at that.