Untuned 75 shot on HR?
 

I'm debating on getting the ZEX HR specific kit,

running 75 shot I have these supporting mods:

Megan Racing Headers (Amazing fitment BTW and good quality)
Top Speed Test Pipes
HKS Type Catback
JWT pop chargers (with dual bumper ducts)
Mishimoto Radiator
Brand new spark plugs, all synthetic fluids..



I'm wondering how reliable a setup with a 3000-7000 RPM window switch would pan out...

Would VQ37HR plugs work ok (Heard they are step colder is this BS or fact?)

I have 89,000 miles on it, was a 1 owner vehicle driven by an old man, 100% stock when I got it..

maintenance was up to date as well!

Plans are down the line slap this holset turbo setup on and run nitrous for now...

I ran 150 wet shot untuned for a year on my de with no issues

2bad240 knows a thing or two about NOS.

How often did you spray? I am a very spirited driver x)

Next thread will be "I blew my untuned engine on nitrous shot".

You Jealous cuz u slow? :icon21:

in for more nitrous use...

OMG

But why not get it tuned?

I will definetely get it tuned, but for now I was just wondering, I have AF/r gauge installed and am monitoring it

Probably used 20 bottles at 3 runs per bottle.

In before boom

ive also been running a 150 shot (125 rwhp) with no problems. i did however tune the na maps myself with osiris and datalogged to verify proper afr. thats as close to tuned as i am. op, id just make sure the kit had all the basic safety requirements like fuel pressure safety switch, window switch and tps switch... along with 1 step colder plugs you should be alright. i personally would pull 1 degree of timing at the 75hp level. im running -2 on my system. you should also invest in osiris, or at least cipher and datalog your runs without nitrous before to see where your afr is and after you spray once, also to see where your afr is, to determine if you have enough fuel. i think thats the safest thing to do.

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No need for nitrous and go ahead with your untuned shot.:ugh2:

75 wet shot will be fine untuned as long as the AFR's are correct. At least get a wideband so you know.

I run a 100 shot (46 nitrous jet, 28 fuel jet) on my de with 121k miles.

IMO the 75 shot isn't worth it. I wasn't impressed. The jump from 42 jet to 46 was huge in feel. The smaller of the two felt like it was bearly anything IE a 75 shot isn't 75whp more like 40 or 50 (on the de). Pull -2 of timing with cipher and run a 46-48 jet with a 26-30 fuel jet and you will be happy. Don't look back. If you want help with nitrous I am here for ya. But don't ask stupid questions. Search, read, and I will help you with the missing info (and there is a lot). IE come to me for jet sizes, parts lists, how to tune it, ect... btw USE A BACKING NUT ON THE FOGGER OR YOU WILL EVENTUALLY HAVE ONE THAT SPINS OR PULLS OUT.

I have a too many mods to list but basic list is... Cams but stock block, gutted intake mani, 5/8 spacer, full exhaust from heads, and a tuned unichip with an aggressive na tune(i pull timing -1 to -2 from this for my nitrous runs but I RUN A LARGER FUEL JET than normal 26 would be the right jet). I have the software to tune the unichip but I am switching to Osirus this week for easy of changing maps (not for anything else as I have a mail in uprev flash with the basics set on it)

I have full bolt ons and a lot of little custom things that people don't think of... If I missed something from the nitrous list that is key I have it. I just am writing this on no sleep.
I have a 5at with a vb upgrade and a tranny cooler. The car spins 275's at 65mph on the larger shots that I run.

Nitrous stuff-
-TUNE (but 75 shot u can use stock map... any more pull -1 or -2 up to 150 shot... I wouldnt go over 125whp without a full tune.

- Nos Powershot solenoids for wet 46/28 jets street and 50/30 when I run a 93+torco blend (105 oct) and a Dry second stage 30 shot on button (removed at the moment for coil rebuild) + a purge. I have a ton of jets. I have larger than the 50 but I rarely run it.

- Having jets is part of tuning... I have about 20 of them.

- Bottle heater (i actually made mine out of motorcylce hand grip heaters saved a bunch on this... must have heater)

- DYNOTUNE LEAN SAFTEY SWITCH AND AFR GAUGE MUST HAVE!!!! Shuts it down if your solenoids fail... better than fuel pressure switch. $120 beats a new motor.

- Nos controller set at 3300rpm to 6500rpm to burn off excess nitrous before redline JIC IT LEAKS. Set at 3.8v tps (about 80% but I am tunned for this...)

- dual LC1 Widebands one to the cut off switch

- Fuel pressure gauge (A MUST)

- Nitrous pressure gauge (A MUST)

- I have a walbro255... I think this is a good idea but it is up to you. IDK if the stock pump can support over 400whp (that my larger jet puts out).


And to the dyno sheet above... cool story bro. My 400+whp on NOS (yeah its funny right?) is faster. It cost less. It is more dd friendly. It makes more tq faster and holds hp longer. It is easier to tune and will prob allow my engine to last longer (because it isnt running huge hp all the time). IDK why people think nitrous = blown motor. IDK why people who have a STOCK ENGINE think adding boost to that is better. FYI turbos and superchargers make heat. Heat kills motors. IF I had boost and wasn't over 400whp I would be very upset. Tell ya what... Just like the guy last night in his modded srt8 charger must have felt... It has gotta suck when an auto g35 with handicap plates passes you.

Look If you aren't running nitrous your input is useless. Stop posting false info and enjoy your car... those of us with nitrous won't make fun of your builds if you don't ours... but IMO a power adder is a power adder.

To your last statements...I don't know either when it comes to power why folks feels nos is cheating!

A local club here adds a generic 75/100 shot on a pedal activation to all their members car. I enjoy watching them pull on almost every other setup! I'm talking stock Z & G cars that are slammed and not a street car blowing by mildly tuned WRX/EVO/135/335 all the time even the American cars that can actually get out of second are getting the business.

MOAR setup/results!

^ FI is FI is FI. Those who say using nitrous is cheating are just hating.

Many nitrous guys don't have a tune, including me. I don't spray anymore, but when I did, it was a 100 whp shot. You should be good up to ~100 whp without a proper tune, but you'd at least want to pull 2º of timing or more.

I haven't seen a couple of you guys before in the nitrous section, but it's always good to see new names around. :)

NOVA and company, you guys have given me some great info!

I am going to undergo the transformation! Currently having my 4.08 gears installed and can't wait!

I think it will be a good match cause of my huge and heavy 19's -_- +spray think it will rev up just fine!

you will be out of gear fast lol... I am on 3.3lsd but plan to change to the 3.7lsd later on (I've spent way too much on the car lately).

I ran mine the other night and made 403whp 438ftlbs (i make 288/265 na). I still have larger jets to throw at it and a few more parts to go on in the next week or so.

To the O.P. I try to stay off the forums because there is too much false info being tossed around and too many people who think they know what they are doing when this is the first car they have ever built. I know a few guys running n2o that stay off as well.

Like I said If anyone has questions or needs help lmk. I will do my best to help.