marcelz

iTrader: (18)

im not sure if there is a thead about track alignment setting,so ill start one.plz share your setting.can plz give me some idea to improve my setting.
our track is short with lot corners.
here is mine

F.Camber (-2.5)
R.Camber (-1.7)

F.toe (toe out 11/32)
R.toe (0)

F.Sway Bar: (Med)
R.Sway Bar: (Med)

F.rebound: (12/16)
F.compression: (8/16)

R.rebound: (10/16)
R.compression; (8/16)

16 × 16 way adjustable dampers, compression and rebound separately adjustable

Tire size (275/3518 Nt01 all around)

Tire pressure (30psi start)

3-fifty-WeEe

F -1.0
r -2.0
stock suspension

tires
F 225
R 255 50 18

30-34 psi

SGSash

iTrader: (3)

Hi Guys,

On our 350z GT Challenge race car I usually run the following wheel alignments:

Front:

Camber: -3.0 to -3.2 degrees
Toe: -0.15 to -0.30 degrees
Caster is stock

Rear:

Camber: -2.8 to -3.0 degrees
Toe: 0 to +0.15 degrees

Rear toe has a large impact on the yaw rate of the vehicle, in other words how well it rotates, this helps especially at low speed, but go too far and watch out!

keichi59

iTrader: (10)

What tire sizes are you running?

ldstang50

iTrader: (2)

tires last year 295/18 front 315/19 rear, Hoosier A6s, stock wheels.
front -.3/-1.3
toe 1/8 total toe out

rear -1.5 both sides
toe 0 static about 1/8 total toe out under load

i also run a Cobb bar at full stiff up front

SGSash

iTrader: (3)

Last year we were using 245/17F and 275/17R.

Generally speaking, the wider the tire, the less camber you can get away with.

diablox1

iTrader: (7)

what kind of impact are you seeing by adjusting your front toe with respect to the type of track you're on?

Lightning Guy

iTrader: (8)

I am running:
Front
-3.0 to -3.3 degrees camber (Cusco uppar arm laid all the way out)
1/16 toe in on front
Stock caster
Hochkis V1 sway almost full soft

Rear
-1.5 to -2.0 degrees camber (SPC stuff)
1/32 toe out in rear
Hochkis V1 sway full soft

I'm also runing HKS Hypermax II with 8kg springs
275/40/17 NITTO NT01s square.
275/40/17 Hoosier R6 square
275/40/17 Hoosier Konis square

the suck part onthe Z33 is the lack of a decent front suspension that actually gains camber when it compressed, so you have to have it all the time or none of the time. THe great thing about a square setup (for us NA guys) is you can rotate around to maximize tire longevity.

guitarist

iTrader: (1)

Front toe adjustments make the car dartier and quicker to turn in, but a bit less stable over rough pavement, especially when braking, or in a straight line in general. The toe also has some interplay with camber in terms of front-end behavior, so there's a balance to seek.

Generally, I find the faster I go, the less I like lots of toe-out. A fully aggressive autocross toe-out setup is downright frightening above 80-90mph and pretty hairy in wet weather, too. So for tracking/HPDEs, I'd want 0 toe or probably some toe in, and tune the balance of the car and turn-in with springs and sways instead.

As SGSash noted, rear toe can help low-speed rotation, but can also be a fickle and harsh mistress when abused. I ran some rear toe-out for a while, but eventually went to 0 toe in the rear when on race tires, and now run some toe-in on street tires. Using rear toe to get the car to rotate is really a workaround for rules, though very tiny changes can help fine-tune the feel once you have the car otherwise well setup.

I run -3 front, -2.5 rear with about 1/32 toe-in up front and 1/16 toe-in rear on 255 square Kumho XSs (SCCA STR max spec tire). Big linear springs (650F/500R), a Cobb bar up front on one down from full stiff and a stock rear bar.

I need to take the rear down to about -1.5-1.8 degrees for better corner exit as I get lots of inside wheel spin now (stock vLSD), but overall it's a very balanced setup that rotates consistently and controllably under either braking (i.e. trail, left foot) or throttle, yet is very stable at higher speeds.

03threefiftyz

iTrader: (25)

What dampers are you using with those spring rates out of curiosity?

guitarist

iTrader: (1)

Koni Truechoice Phase 4 DAs (shortened/race valved) up front and Koni sports in the rear. I wouldn't go any higher than 500lb/in on the sports, as even that is probably at their upper limits, but I haven't seen any problems with it--not maxed out on adjustment, and no ill effects (i.e. car doesn't act like it's under-damped). It's been that way for 8 or 10 months now, and does fine on street and autocross.

Eventually I'd like to go to some Truechoice DAs in the rear as well, but I'm not 100% sure I'm going to keep the car.

Clam

iTrader: (6)

I have only been doing autocross with the Z for a year, and some events are held on tracks.

My current set-up is:
stock suspension w/ 350Evo Front Camber Arms
Enkei RP03 18x10 +22 w/ 275/35/18 Dunlop Star Specs all-around

F:
-2.0 Camber
1/16" Toe-out

R:
-2.0 Camber
1/16" Toe-in

By the end of the year, I will downsize my wheels to 17x9 w/ 255/40/17 tires and give STR a shot since the current Street Tire Class for my region is getting disbanded so no more 275's for me

03threefiftyz

iTrader: (25)

Appreciate the input! I just got some tc klines to replace my SA koni's. Looking to bump the spring rate up probably next year or so. Thanks.

guitarist

iTrader: (1)

If you do, you'll probably want to take out some of that rear camber and get a really good diff. Power is the Z's only advantage, and at 500lbs heavier than the S2Ks, you need to maximize that advantage.

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

Oh ya, a good rear diff is a must. I just put an OS in mine and the corner exit is crazy, i can actually get the power down now. Best mod so far, sucks i waited so long, no i have to learn how to drive my car again.

scotts300

iTrader: (46)

Agreed. There is a 350 that I've been nipping in times by a few tenths each month and he has the stock diff. Last year I mentioned to him that I changed to the NISMO, but it hasn't come up since. SSSSShhhhhh.....

Clam

iTrader: (6)

Good info there, I guess I got the diff taken car of already since I installed a Quaife Differential 3 months after autocrossing with the Z

350Zdj

iTrader: (3)

Thread Resurrection! LOL. IMO this has very good info so pardon me.

Need a quick advise from the experts here.

A quick background:
I've been tracking the Z for a couple of years now and I thought it was time to move on with some new suspension parts. Unfortunately the big step is kind of like overwhelming and now I'm kind of lost with setting up the car.

New setup, coming from stock suspension (previously i only had crappy coilovers):
Camber (adjustable arms): -1.8F, -2.5R
Swaybar (Hotchkis): Medium-Hard front, Medium rear
Toe (SPC) - I forgot
Coilover (kw v2)- height dropped by 1.5-1.8inch. Rebound dampers all set at medium-soft
Tires: 275/35 x 18 square nt05
Others: OSGiken LSD

These are the new parts installed that caused the drastic change in my car's handling lol. To get more acquainted with these mods, I did a few AutoX events and I found out that the rear end is pretty unstable when diving into fast sweeping corners.

Another trackday is coming up soon and I don't have much time left to experiment with the settings.

I would like to make the car rotate into turns quickly and smoothly while being able to use my LSD to its full potential upon exit.

Currently, I think my setup sucks.

So, if anyone care to advise a good base setup where I can start off and progress from there? I would be really grateful. Let me know what camber, swaybar and toe setting I should be using for a fresh start.

tia.

track layout
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:Du...lub_Course.svg

terrasmak

iTrader: (8)

More front camber, front should have more than the rear. Less sway bar, start at full soft and work up as needed to dial out understeer/oversteer.

Z1NONLY

iTrader: (2)

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