myack45

I promise this is not my car/video but I'm having essentially the same problem with my ZR (my top goes down a little bit further than the car in the video but still won't go all the way down to allow the hatch to close).

Been reading a ton of posts after doing a search regarding the problem. Looks like the elastic bands problem to me.

patrickoneal

I've read that some people will reach up and help push the front most bow with the elastic band attached as the top goes down. Maybe try that to make up for the lack of elasticity. I'd say if it folds properly when you do that, the bands are the problem. You shouldn't have to push for too long, as the bands get slack pretty quickly on a properly working top.

Phreakdout

iTrader: (32)

If your top has some age on it and those bands have broken loose; you will need to flip that crossbar as the top goes up or down. Basically the elastic bands were doing that. If you don't or the top keeps binding up, you will get two 3" tears in your top at the ends of that cross brace.

SHILOW

I have made a habbit of reaching up to assist the elastic bands every time I lower the top. I had replaced the elastic bands and a few months later they wre worn again. This method has lasted me 4yrs. Phreaktor is correct. I believe that this issue with the second bow is a the cause of the tears as well as premature wear on the motors. The motors are fighting to fold the top when the second bow is not in the correct position.

patrickoneal

I don't seem to be having trouble with my top yet, but the bands seem pretty slack. I found the instructions for replacement from Nissan online, and they show removing the top about halfway off the frame and replacing some double sided tape, in addition to drilling out the rivets and replacing the straps.

It seems like it would be possible to replace these straps without removing the top from the frame. Has anyone attempted to do it without removing the top?

Instructions:

http://ww2.justanswer.com/uploads/fi..._top_issue.pdf

Esser

iTrader: (2)

It's the taillights causing the problem

SHILOW

I think it is possible to replace the bands without removing the top. The main issue is to drill the rivets out without slipping and drilling a hole in the top. If you can protect the top from the drill bit then I'm sure you could do it. I posted earlier that if you reach up and push the 2nd bow into position you do not have to rely on the elastic band. I replaced my elastic bands and they wore out in just a couple of months. Do not neglect the positioning of the second bow. It will wear on the motors and tear holes in your top.

patrickoneal

I park in my garage, so my top stays down 99% of the time, at least for the summer. So I avoid most wear and tear.

My straps are feeling a bit slack, so I ordered a set of new ones.

With the top about half open it looks like there is plenty of room for a small drill, and room enough for material to protect the top.

After I get the kit, I'm going to do some measuring and see if I can use some riv-nuts and machine screws in place of the pop-rivets. That way I can replace the straps again later with just a screw driver or allen wrench. I'll post back here to let everyone know how that works out.

michael2323jord

Anything to report??

patrickoneal

I did a bunch of measuring, and it appears that riv-nuts with machine screws will not work for various reasons. The back of the steel bracket that goes over the elastic would have to be countersunk to allow it to securely clamp the elastic, however, the front would have to be countersunk to make room for the screw heads. If they were sticking out, I think they might wear the top when it's folded. Having to countersink both sides won't work because the bracket isn't thick enough.

That said, it does look like there is plenty of room for a compact drill and some material to protect the top in case of slippage. I'm working through some transmission issues at the moment, but once I get that sorted out, I'll install the straps and report back.

I can say the old straps are a single layer of elastic, whereas the new ones I ordered are double thick. They may or may not last longer.

Netko350Z

iTrader: (8)

1:16 mark... yea revving the motor will fix it...

Starchecker

^^^ LOL Yeah good trouble shooting technique.

Anyway I am having similar issues. Just dropped $1700 getting the two side motors replaced which didn't solve anything. 5th Bow starts to retract when I go to open and then gets stuck. Pushing the close button, makes the 5th bow retract(likes it's opening) and then go back down to close. So I don't think that's 5th Bow issue. But then I also get this stuck halfway into stowing the top, so the Elastic issue. But also when I go to close, it's gets the top up, but then when the 5th bow needs to retract it the rest of the way so the hard cover can come down it gets stuck again. So it seems when opening and then at the last part of closing, the 5th bow doesn't want to retract. What a complicated mess and who knows who can figure it out.

Slyguy_38

Same exact thing on a 2006 350ZR Grand Touring I was looking at buying. Dealer isn't knowledgable on Z cars or their tops and doesn't know why it sticks. Thought I would look here and get more information....
Sly

Cavallino

Can you be more specific on pushing the 2nd bow into position???? I am having a similar problem as the car in the video posted by the OP. However, it is winter and very cold where I am in New York, and I know you're technically not supposed to open/close the top in cold weather, but I just bought the car and wanted to make sure it worked. I did lube some of the moving parts up, and it went down fine, but now it is stopping just before going in, like the car in the video.

red roadster

I have seen a couple of other treads, on this or another forum in reguards to replacing this bands. Can't seem to relocate them at the moment but one showed pics of opening the top a little and sliding a piece of cardboard between the bow and top material to guard in case of slippage while drilling out the rivet. It also mentioned removing the rubber plug in the end of the bow to be able to get the part of the rivet out that has been drilled. On a different tread, this one showed reattaching the new band with 3m two sided tape. It is my understanding you can get a band kit from Nissian but I just went to Hobby Lobby and got the same type of band there. I am just about to replace mine, I plan on reattacthing with rivets and doubling the bands when I reinstall them. I will keep looking for the other treads espically the one with the cardboard used for protecting the top. There were pics that showed placement.

red roadster

Just found the tread on using the two sided tape. Last post date 12-4-12, not sure if the paste below will work.
Tread title " Replace Elastic Bands (no drilling)


https://my350z.com/forum/350z-roadst...-drilling.html

red roadster

Here is the link to the other tread with great pics and a list of needs.


https://my350z.com/forum/350z-roadst...-tutorial.html

patrickoneal

That was my thread. If I did it over again, I'd try to find something a little better than cardboard to protect the top. I didn't slip, but I doubt it would offer much protection. The hardest part is punching the rivet nubs through after drilling the head off. I could have used a larger bit and drilled it out rivets completely, but I was concerned about enlarging the hole and the new rivets not holding. Definitely put down a towel to catch all the aluminum shavings, I made quite a mess.

I see you mentioned using some elastic material sourced from a craft store. I think this would be difficult to attach with rivets. The latest OEM straps are double thick, and I think they're tripled up and sewn at the ends where the rivet holes are. If you have a sewing machine and some leather punches, you could probably duplicate the design, but for the price of the OEM strap kit, I think it's the better way to go.

I've got some extra new OEM straps, I can measure the rivets, hole spacing, length, and document the folding and stitching if you like.

red roadster

Rivet size, spacing, and all of the above would be great. I was going to try and double the straps for extra tension but wasn't sure about how much strech to give. Thanks

chickenputo

I'd like to know as well. Can you tell us in detail what you do?
I'm not having problems but definitely want to avoid them as much as possible.