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Hey guys,
I just wanted to share my on going build. After making 385hp and 350 tq(dynojet) with a standard aps tt kit for a few years on the stock motor with uprev I have decided to push for more.
So I had the guys over at Dynosty build a complete vq35de long block for me. This motor is complete overkill for my current setup. Next year I plan to do a bigger setup . Possibly some sfr manifolds and 6262 twins but for now these cute little things will do. Should be interesting to see what I can get out of them.
specs include:
manley turbo tuff rods
manley platinum pistons w/upgraded pins (8.5.1 cr stock bore)
acl bearings
arp l19's
hks headgasket
billet main girdle
revup oil pump
race port and polished heads
bc stage 3 272 cams
ferrea oversized valvetrain
ati damper
other supporting mods include :
aam fuel return system
rc 650 cc injectors
aeromotive 340 fuel pump
Haltech Platinum Pro Stand Alone
koyo radiator
mishimoto fan shroud ( two 14 in. spal fans)
mishimoto oil cooler kit w/custom bracket and hoses to accommodate fitment
new cd009 tranny
os giken twin disk tr2cd (rps couldnt make the twin carbon carbon for me
RJM Clutch Pedal
Tilton Master cylinder / new oem slave
Heat wrapped SS Clutch line
the aps kit has some extras:
aps tallboy plenum
3.5 in downpipes
forge actuators w/ red springs
tial bov
motordyne tdx exhaust w/ custom 3in y pipe
I have received my motor from dynosty and it is a beautiful work of art!
here are some more photos of the tear down process
I am currently in the middle of painting the engine bay and moving the aps tt kit from the old motor to this new beast .
I'll keep you guys posted on my progress!
what catch can are your running? how is it routed?
what spring are you running in your actuators? expected boost levels?
I am in the process of getting my car back up and running... my aps turbos started blowing smoke and I have upgraded to a set of GT3071R turbos from ATP. waiting on a few parts before putting my motor back in the car. lots of little tweaks APS did to these turbos that have been a pain in my @ss.
all new mounting studs,
modifying actuator rods
swapped a hosing bolt to allow fitment
modified oil banjo bolt for restrictors
I am running blue springs, hoping to get to 18 psi or so, and break 600 whp
My other response was ... If you have to ask, you can't afford it
Your wisdom amazes me with every keystroke you type! You have it all figured out by one single question!
It probably would of been best if you actually never commented with such an obvious response.
The reason I asked the question in the first place was to see what shops were charging in different areas and get to a general idea of the cost associated. Unlike the thought process that you expressed, spending money wisely and researching before purchasing something does not collate with affordability.
My other response was ... If you have to ask, you can't afford it
That's one of the stupidest things I continually hear.
How does one know they can afford it without asking. That's like me going to the shop and saying " Hey man, how much does it cost to swap that LS in there"
And them saying " Oh you asked, you can't afford it"
Not realizing, I just sold my Is300, got my quarterly bonus as well as my profit sharing check
Asking a shop is not the same as asking a random person on a forum. If one had done a little bit a research they would know ballpark what things cost. Stating he was curious about different areas having different costs is stupid... Still ballpark untill you call a shop and spec out exactly what you want for you specific build. What you choose could vary the price thousands.
Hey everyone sorry for the late update the car has come a long way since I last visited here. Since then I had decided to convert over to a haltech stand alone with a dual wideband controller which didn't take much convincing from Hal.
So as of right now the car is all together. I had a remote session with Hal last week on the dyno. Unfortunately it had to be cut short. We did some pulls on wastegate pressure which was 9lbs. It was making great progress but unfortunately when we started taking the pulls past 6500 rpms I had a drop in fuel pressure. At that point the car was left at 422hp and 388tq on a mustang dyno with the rev limiter set to 6k. On that same dyno it had made 341hp and 305 tq on the same amount of boost on my stock motor. That is already an increase of 81 hp and 83tq with very and I mean very minimal tuning! and lets not forget I still have alot more room in that rpm range to go. I expect much more out of it still on just the 9lbs alone. The numbers I posted in the beginning of this thread were my dynojet numbers. This mustang dyno has exactly a 15 percent difference from the dynojet i used if you do the math.
So add 15 percent to my current numbers and that would put me real close to 500 already on a dynojet which is amazing on this baby boost.
Once I sort out the issue with the fuel pressure it will be going back for more and hopefully the only issue will be the limitation of these itty bity turbos!
Hal suggested to look at the sending unit as its common for them to crack. He also mentioned the internals of the fuel pump could be failing and to also take a look at the voltage. But he said the pump should be more than enough for my current goals.
I havn't pulled out the sending unit yet as I have a full tank of gas so I want to waste some of that first. The pump is getting good voltage its got over 13v I think it was 13.5 if I remember correctly. But I think we are guna run a relay anyway so that it gets power directly.
I'm contemplating on running the cjm twin pump setup since i'll be needing it for my future setup anyway but lets see what we find with that sending unit first. The O-rings could be torn too. I remember one being a PITA to put in.
here are some of the photos i took during the progress that i slacked on posting up enjoy!
I have to say I am very happy with the drivability and the quietness of this clutch! Dynosty did a very good job at finding a clutch for my needs. It feels lighter than a stock clutch and engages very smoothly and effortlessly. Unfortunately my clutch pedal became lazy after maybe about an hour of driving but after letting it cool it came right back up to normal. So I ordered a tilton master cylinder and new oem slave cylinder and hopefully that should fix that.
I had to get rid of my washer fluid bottle to fit this lovely piece. So much for a street car ! We made a custom bracket to fit it in that corner and had to shorten the hoses that came with the kit. As for the sandwich plate there were nothing but clearance issues with the sandwich plate due to having the aps oil pan. I had to change one of the fittings on one of my oil lines for the turbo to a 90 to fit around the nice mishimotto bango fittings and the aps oil pan. That turned out to be a waste. Once the car was put on the floor the bangos didn't clear the sway bar so at the moment the oil cooler is disconnected until we can figure out how to make it work. It looks like I'm going to have to get rid of the aps oil pan and just run a stock one with a spacer so that I can rotate the sandwich plate. I wish I had taken a picture of that so you could see how tight everything was.
what catch can are your running? how is it routed?
what spring are you running in your actuators? expected boost levels?
I am in the process of getting my car back up and running... my aps turbos started blowing smoke and I have upgraded to a set of GT3071R turbos from ATP. waiting on a few parts before putting my motor back in the car. lots of little tweaks APS did to these turbos that have been a pain in my @ss.
all new mounting studs,
modifying actuator rods
swapped a hosing bolt to allow fitment
modified oil banjo bolt for restrictors
I am running blue springs, hoping to get to 18 psi or so, and break 600 whp
Im running the red springs to avoid having problems with holding higher boost but for some reason my spring rate is only at 9 lbs still. I was expecting at least 15 with these springs. I even did a boost leak test and everything is tight so not sure whats going on there.
My goals are the same as urs actually except im hoping these turbos can take it lol. I know these on 18lbs is asking alot from them. My manifolds have already cracked actually. I had them welded shut again before putting them back in but i don't think it did much good. I can hear exhaust leaks comming from that area I wouldn't doubt if they already cracked again but i'm hoping the downpipes just need to be tightened haha thats my wishful thinking. At this point I'm just testing the waters with this kit. Ive looked into doing the gt3071's but its not worth it to me. Not with these crappy cast iron manifolds. I want to do away with cast iron period. I want a hole different setup but this will do for now its just a matter of what i can get out of it and for how long. So far their holding 9lbs very well. Lets see what happens with more boost.
As far as my catch can setup I just peiced it together. Its a pretty simple setup. I got everything from jegs and summit all -8 hosing and fittings. Its pretty much the same as the project import setup
Im running the red springs to avoid having problems with holding higher boost but for some reason my spring rate is only at 9 lbs still. I was expecting at least 15 with these springs. I even did a boost leak test and everything is tight so not sure whats going on there.
My goals are the same as urs actually except im hoping these turbos can take it lol. I know these on 18lbs is asking alot from them. My manifolds have already cracked actually. I had them welded shut again before putting them back in but i don't think it did much good. I can hear exhaust leaks comming from that area I wouldn't doubt if they already cracked again but i'm hoping the downpipes just need to be tightened haha thats my wishful thinking. At this point I'm just testing the waters with this kit I know its on its last leg. Ive looked into doing the gt3071's but its not worth it to me. Not with these crappy cast iron manifolds. I want to do away with cast iron period. I want a hole different setup but this will do for now its just a matter of what i can get out of it and for how long.
As far as my catch can setup I just peiced it together. Its a pretty simple setup. I got everything from jegs and summit all -8 hosing and fittings. Its pretty much the same as the project import setup
thanks for the info.
I went to the bigger turbos as my old turbos were blowing oil into the intake. the 3071R were the same money as replacing the cartridges on the stock (aps) ones.
my manifolds look fine. youre not the first example of seen of them cracking. hoping I don't have his issue in the near future. I know they don't flow that well, but for my needs I think they flow enough. IMHO the sweet spot for this car is in the 500-550 range. they are plenty enough for that.
watched the video in regards to the catch can. I was curious what they did with the pcv valve and then again what they did with the other ports... they deleted the pcv and capped the old fittings. appreciate the info.
I have a catch can in route off the pcv going back to the lower manifold. didn't touch the drivers side valve cover. I'll take a look and see if I want to change this
02-24-2017, 10:26 AM
northeast dynosty build aps tt
I wouldn't doubt if they already cracked again but i'm hoping the downpipes just need to be tightened haha thats my wishful thinking. At this point I'm just testing the waters with this kit. Ive looked into doing the gt3071's but its not worth it to me. Not with these crappy cast iron manifolds. I want to do away with cast iron period. I want a hole different setup but this will do for now its just a matter of what i can get out of it and for how long. So far their holding 9lbs very well. Lets see what happens with more boost.