savedbygrace

iTrader: (4)

Hey everyone,

So I'm having my clutch replaced, 110k mileage 04 base model with bolt ons, probably won't ever turbo the car but would love to of course, and am needing a new clutch.

I already have an oem flywheel in great shape very low mileage, but am looking for the pressure plate and clutch disc.

What would you recommend if I wanted no chatter but a nice pedal feel that isn't mushy nor puck-like positive. Don't want super grabby....but smooth yet engagement felt. Using my dual mass flywheel to dampen the transmission vibration to kill the "chatter"...but do some of the third party clutches rattle more inherently? Have read a lot and am seeing conflicting info...yes...I know...internet can be internot. But you guys I trust overall with the exception of a few boneheads here and there.

Leaning toward going JWT with 900lb clamping force model with stock dual mass flywheel, but very very interested in the Southbend stage 2 pressure plate and clutch disc to mate up with my dual mass flywheel. Will the Southbend work beautifully with stock dual mass flywheel? JWT says theirs will, but any actual reality feedback is welcome of course.

I already have the RJM clutch pedal bracket by the way and LOVE that thing.

IMPORTANT: I want to be sure the clutch doesn't have a high engagement...does choosing the JWT or a Southbend affect this at all? I really like the pedal to grab closer to the floor than midway up....two inches off the floor or so...maybe a little more.

Thanks everyone...hoping to order the replacement right after this weekend,

Saved

MicVelo

JWT and Southbend are pretty much the go-to clutches for a straightforward, no hassle replacement of OE. Both should work just fine with the OE DMF. Can't really go too far wrong with either.

Put a JWT into my son's car (but with their iron SMF) and it's a beautiful replacement with no engagement, chatter issues.

savedbygrace

iTrader: (4)

Thanks Mic, much appreciated.

Mind if I bug you with another question? Did his pedal height come up at all after the install?

And hey...with the iron single mass, is there a difference from stock regarding responsiveness? I think I'd like smf responsiveness, but definitely not chatter whatsoever....want a great sounding and great driving car and chatter just kills it, but the JWT iron single mass has me really curious.

Saved

MicVelo

Pedal height on his car actually decreased a bit (lower engagement point) but that may be more due to the new slave (CSC) set up. His is an HR so the engage point was unnaturally high to begin with.

So far as noise, because it's an HR, gear noise (the ol' "pebbles in cement mixer" sound) is already high and I'd estimate that with the SMF, it's about the same as it was. But I don't drive it daily so can't truly say. Put this way, he has no complaints.

Responsiveness has improved some but it'd better be more responsive with a new (vs. old, worn) clutch. Flywheel contribution to that, haven't heard. No power runs on it while he broke it in.

timeltel

Regards, Saved: Drove my '08 off the lot, new. At about 18k mi., noted a vibration in the shifter when engine braking, a little rattle went with it at about 41k & 29k rpm. Long story short, DMF failure took out the transmission & propeller shaft bearings. These were replaced under factory & extended warranty.

Installed RJM pedal. Stage 2 South Bend clutch, pressure plate & 19 lb. solid steel flywheel, Wilwood master & slave cylinders from Zspeed. Happy happy, joy joy!

Adjust your clutch engagement at both the RJM or the clevis connecting to the master cylinder push rod but if you go too far with the clevis, the master cylinder will not replenish from the reservoir displaced fluid and the pedal will eventually fail to return. At four turns past just barely snug, you're possibly pushing your luck.

Strongly suggest you trash the DMF if you're getting vibration in the drive train. Check the OEM (LUC) DMF, if the primary and secondary flywheels can be rotated more than 20mm in opposite directions by hand at the circumference, the wear limit has probably been reached. There is a nylon bushing registering the relationship between the primary and secondary masses, this can wear beyond designed tolerances at (sometimes) surprisingly few miles. Only a small amount of axial (tilt) movement should be possible between the two masses. At 110k miles and if within your budget, I'd suggest you "buy once, cry once". The 19 lb solid is quiet & retains enough mass to provide sufficient inertia to pull from an uphill stop.

Good luck.

savedbygrace

iTrader: (4)

Thanks guys, great great info and helps me a ton.

No drivetrain shudder thankfully, car is in pretty good shape and only daily driven.

Really looking forward to the new clutch whenever this gets done. Ideally I'd like to try that 19lb flywheel but I think it's going to have to wait until the next round of upgrades. Just have to decide on JWT or Southbend now...

And ironically, just learned that the lwf from JWT is actually made by someone else, and the JWT clutch is actually a slightly modified Exedy clutch, with Exedy making the oem for a lot of japanese cars, including our Z's. Southbend's flywheel is made by Exedy as well I believe, but with differences in the design/materials I think.

You guys are great...thanks sincerely,

Saved