thekinn

iTrader: (18)

I'm been breaking the rear left wheel bearing on my '06 350Z on a pretty regular basis since upgrading to the OSGiken diff. I recently read of someone replacing the axles and bearing with 370Z parts. Apparently they match up nicely but may require slightly longer bolts at the stub axle.

Has anyone done this? I'm assuming that the 370Z bearings are more robust than 350z.

Looking for a better solution than replacing these every couple of events. Hoping to get a little more feedback before investing in more parts.

Thanks!

guitman32

iTrader: (15)

What bearings have you been using? I had a bad string of luck with Timken bearings. So much so I stopped using them and only use OEM now.

thekinn

iTrader: (18)

OEM lasted 3 track days (replaced hub with bearing both OEM), SKF lasted 6. Going with Moog this time.

dcains

iTrader: (15)

Interesting - my right rear (original part) is starting to growl just a little but @70K miles, and I wasn't sure which brand to buy. Now, I'm even less sure, but maybe OEM is the best?

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

Yes you can use the hub/bearings and axles from a 370z. That is what I am running.

You must do both at the same time.

you will want to buy the bolts meant for the 370z. They do not use nuts.

thekinn

iTrader: (18)

I'm pretty convinced that I 'can' use the 370 axle/hub on my 350.. But 'should' I is the main question.

I'm looking for longer lasting hubs for track use. If I am just replacing 370 hubs after 6 track days.. then I haven't really made an improvement.

I would consider myself a conservative track driver on street tires but at full weight ~3500lbs. Meaning, I'm not burning through tires every other event.. not jumping all the curbs to cut time.. not drifting..

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

prices are about the same for hubs and axles..used of course. So why not? Have you seen the side by side?

Desert Z

iTrader: (1)

Also with the z34 swap you gain 10mm (or 14mm can't remember) since the z34 sub frame has a slightly wider track.

Join the 'Track Prepped Z/G Group' on Facebook for a great discussion on this type of stuff.

thekinn

iTrader: (18)

The Facebook group is where I first saw someone posting of this. Not much detail on testing and/or success of the mod, just that it is possible. I did not see anything about gaining width - maybe there are multiple posts in the group.. will search

Thanks for the bump though. Trying to get more feedback before I pull the trigger on parts.

Desert Z

iTrader: (1)

Yes, there have been several posts regarding this in the last 6 months. Some more helpful than others.

thekinn

iTrader: (18)

I think I read through all of the Facebook group posts on this topic, and while the install process has been pretty well documented, the results have not.

The track season is winding down for me up here in Michigan, if my newly installed Moog bearing lasts a couple more track days I won't be pursuing this mod until next year.

Blurvision

iTrader: (4)

So far its been posted on FB but not sure if anyone really have tested it? Please post back with your findings.

guitman32

iTrader: (15)

Just curious but how are your rear bearings failing?

thekinn

iTrader: (18)

I wish I knew. The previous two were installed by the same shop. I decided to do the last one myself (with the help of a different shop to remove the hub and press it into the new bearing). This is also a different brand - Moog. Previous two were OEM and Timken.

If it isn't the part, or the install, then I am baffled. Only have 1 track day on the Moog and car will probably be going into storage soon.

N80

It seems to me the bigger question is why are you breaking rear wheel bearings at this rate. I'm driving an 07 with 90k miles on it. About 5 track weekends a year, most of them at a particularly punishing track and all of my wheel bearings are the originals. (I'm sure I've just jinxed myself into a bad bearing at the track this weekend). Granted, I'm still using the OEM viscous LSD, but still, there has to be something else going on with your car.

cbax

Ive been through 2 left rears so far on mine in 2 years autocrossing. 80k OEM, a Timken, now on a SKF and still tight after 4 events. Ive got a Timken in the right rear (replaced while doing the left the 1st time) and still fine. Was on 315 hoosiers for most of this season. Also with OSGiken diff.

N80

Maybe I'll stick with my sorry OEM LSD.

thekinn

iTrader: (18)

I thought I had listed some of my mods in the first post, but didn't..

OSGiken LSD, 275x35x18 Hankook RS-3's on all 4 corners. 18x9.5 rotas (no hubcentric rings needed), Whiteline bushings for diff and subframe. N/A. 3500+lbs with driver and ~1/2 tank of gas, had Bilstein b8 shocks and swift springs for most of this.. just upgraded to Ohlins. OEM rear swaybar. Kirk 4pt bolt in rollbar. OEM Brembos in rear PFC01 pads. ABS delete, proportioning valve.

DriverRear
-2.35 camber 04toe
PassRear
-2.57 camber 07toe

Lap around my home track -

guitman32

iTrader: (15)

Meant what is actually wrong with the bearing...axial play heat etc?

thekinn

iTrader: (18)

The first sign is the squeaking while driving.. most noticeable driving slowing down side-streets. Then do the typical hub check by lifting the car and wiggling the wheel with hands at 12 and 6 or 3 and 9. The wheel has wiggle.. that tells me the hub is bad. That's about as far as my knowledge goes. Haven't gotten any feedback from the shop as to any further details.

Is that what you are asking?