tony_t

iTrader: (1)

Ok so after 6 years of my car sitting in storage I finally got around to getting it back together. Installed a haltech harness ecu I had for years.

I had the engine out if the car so I've been over every part. All new fluids. Cleaned injectors. Flushed fuel tank etc.

first problem I had was a bent pin on the factory ecu for the APP. Fixed that.

now I have between 5 and 7 trouble codes. 4 of which are o2 sensor codes I'm not concerned with. (Running haltech dual wideband)

A random cylinder 6 misfire sometimes but the main code that comes up every time is a p1136.
this code pops as soon as I turn the ignition on. The car doesn't have to run. Upon starting the car it runs pretty well except the idle is a little rough. I've watched the target and actual timing via haltech and that bank doesn't change with throttle input like the other bank. You can actually hear a very sight difference in exhaust note on that bank as well.

I've heard it could be a bad ecu on some other threads. But their issues were related to shredded wiring due to supercharger. My car is TT. I have the solenoid valve off to test. It ohms within spec. Anyone know the proper procedure to test it or have any insightful information for me lol. Sorry so long of a thread just wanna make sure I get all the info out there

i8acobra

iTrader: (6)

The solenoid on the top/front of the driver's side cylinder head isn't working. First check the oil level. Next, unplug it and make sure the pins are getting correct voltages. I'll need to look up the voltages when I go to the shop tomorrow. If they are, remove it, disassemble, clean the screens and reassemble.

tony_t

iTrader: (1)

Just put fresh oil in it after sitting for quite some time. I pulled the solenoid today and have verified it does move when i put voltage across it.

I would be very grateful if you could get me those values. I can't recall exactly what I got on my multimeter. But I got just over 12 volts on each terminal on the harness with the ignition on. But they were off just a little from each other.

one thing to note is that it throws the code after it has been cleared as soon as you energize the ignition. You don't have to run the engine.

i8acobra

iTrader: (6)

They all showed voltage? One should be ground. You're ground wire may be broken or not connected somewhere. I'll check in a bit.

tony_t

iTrader: (1)

yep both pins showed voltage. I though that was weird being as it's a solenoid. But I know it's pulse width modulated or something like that. My shop partner is pretty good with that stuff and that's what he had found. So I wasn't sure how it operated. I'll double check as well when I get home.

thanks a bunch man. This stuff is pretty frustrating lol

i8acobra

iTrader: (6)

What year is the car?

i8acobra

iTrader: (6)

Unplug the solenoid. Check continuity from ECM pin 10 and the solenoid plug. With the plug unplugged and the key on, should have 12V on the white/blue wire. white/green is the ground to the ecm.

Do you have access to a scope or an analog volt meter?

tony_t

iTrader: (1)

it's a 2003.

tony_t

iTrader: (1)

awesome man I appreciate that. I will check that as soon as my son goes to bed.

I don't have a scope or an analog volt meter. Just a faulty we can blue point unit. I can try to get one though.

i8acobra

iTrader: (6)

OK. The solenoid works by opening and closing to allow oil to the variable cam gear. The white/green wire should switch between 7 and 12 volts rapidly. You can see it by back probing the connector with a scope or voltmeter with a needle at around 2,000 rpm.

tony_t

iTrader: (1)

lol I should have proofread that last one. I have a fairly nice blue point meter is what it should have said. I'll have to wait to back probe at 2k. It's very loud and it's late. But I did check both plugs with ignition on. The white/green wire and respective wire on the passenger side both have between 6 and 8 volts depending on how long I left my key on for. And they seem to rise together. Checking continuity on the pin mentioned now.

tony_t

iTrader: (1)

I checked continuity for pin 10 on the haltech harness on engine side to the factory ecu side and it came up negative. My friend had the good meter with him so I had to use a crappy craftsman one we had laying about. I'm going to re check with with the other tomorrow.

I guess it would explain the code being thrown immediately when the ignition is turned in though. Really lame because I bought this haltech back in 2008 or 09 and it sat on the shelf until a couple months ago. It's brand new but old lol. Hopefully I'm wrong though. I'll check tomorrow. I appreciate the help.

tony_t

iTrader: (1)

Update. I have confirmed that my haltech harness.. although brand new (8 years on the shelf lol) has a faulty connection on pin 10. FSRM under engine control page 414 shows the circuit for that solenoid. And obviously pin 10 is the culprit.

contacted haltech and they are going to fix it. Said they would cut me a slight break which is cool. Wish I would have tested when I bought it lol.

I'll keep this post updated when the harness comes back. If I still have issues I'm selling it to someone with an automatic lmao

i8acobra

iTrader: (6)

Glad it worked out.

tony_t

iTrader: (1)

well I don't have it fixed yet lol. There are still a few things that don't make sense about it. For whatever reason on the plug end (solenoid side) I was seeing voltage across that wire even though there was no continuity in the haltech harness. So I'm not counting my chickens yet. If I fight with it too much more... I'm switching the ecu. Been reading a little about ecumaster. We shall see. *cough* LS swap *cough*

i8acobra

iTrader: (6)

When you saw voltage on the white/green wire, was the solenoid plugged in or unplugged?

tony_t

iTrader: (1)

unplugged

i8acobra

iTrader: (6)

Short to power somewhere.

tony_t

iTrader: (1)

update... Got my haltech back. Everything checked out fine. It was my misunderstanding of how it works. It intercepts the wires from the VTC and feeds a signal to the factory ecu to keep it happy.

progress though kinda. If I turn the key to run and clear the p1136 code then start the car I have no check engine light. Watching in my dashboard intake cam bank 1 and 2 are now adjusting and trying to get to the target value.

but as soon as the key is turned off then back on the code comes right back. It's a hard fault. It throws the code without having started the engine. I dunno.... I'm about to sell the haltech harness system and try to get a full plug and play.

tony_t

iTrader: (1)

For whatever reason I'm also getting a large amount of condensation that smells like fuel from the passenger bank. And the drivers side exhaust has a funny sound...

true dual exhaust..

I hate this stupid car lol. Think I'm gonna switch gears and work on my LS swapped 280z haha