kbowen4

im getting so frustrated its just one thing after another. With this thing. No my passenger window will only work with yhe key also. The car was running fine last week and my base map was tuned well except for high rpm in boost. (Hard to do on the road was waiting until i get some dyno time in a month or so) Long story short My laptop screen will read higher coolant temps than my dash guage but only some times. Then all of a sudden my coolant fans wouldnt turn on. (But they did after i unplugged the ecu and plugged it bag in wtf?) I just watched it today and my screen read 205 when the fans kick on, so its right sometimes at least. Then i go for a drive, no fans car overheats again. The car is idling crazy lean for the first minute or two and wont idle but all of a sudden it richens out and runs fine like it did last week. It doesnt do this change until its been running for a minute or 2 and then its like a switch was flipped and it back to normal. I thought maybe I had a vacuum leak but it seems to level out instantly and I doubt a vacuum leak would seal itself entirely like that. my coolant temp (around 190) enrichment and air temp(between90-100) are both in the zero portion of the map when this happens as is the post start enrichment.
Car setup
Haltech pnp wiyh wideband
570cc gtr injectors return system pressure reading 55 the whole time
Boosted performance twin scroll
Efr 8374 turbo
Lots of other unrelated stuff

$20 paypal to who ever comes up With a solution to my issues
thanks in advance.
Keith

kbowen4

also just a note it does this when started when it's warm also if I turn the car off in wait 2 minutes and restart it when the coolant temp is still 190 or so this still happens and then it just becomes better all of a sudden

kbowen4

Now it is happening not only during warm up...it starts to go lean while staying in the same cell on the map. I can rev it to say 3k or so and itll settle back down to normal for idle and then randomly go back to lean. Wondering if im having injector issues.

tony_t

iTrader: (1)

Seems like you have more than one issue. The fan issue would likely be unrelated to the afr issue. Any chance you have a short in your harness to the fans? Have you watched the fuel trims and see if they are trying to correct the issue? Just throwing some ideas out there. Maybe monitor the duty cycles of the injectors and see if there is something funny going on there.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

if you take the time to screen shot your auxillary maps (post start enrich, coolant & air temp corrections, prime pulse, etc) ... remember that most the maps work in conjunction with each other...a few critical errors on a auxiliary map will cause issues on your overall tune...I'd also be 10,000% sure your injector dead times & flow rates are correct wrt fuel pressure, and ensure your APP & TPS have been calibrated. I'd go through your settings/setup and ensure everything is correct...a wise man once said 'the devil is in the details'




that'll be $20

kbowen4

first off thank you to the both of you for replying. tonight I will try to get some screenshots up of my maps up, some of them I have tried to modify to solve the problem with no luck. since it ran fine before I feel like I have to be having some type of sensor failure as I'm sitting here thinking about it I'm thinking it's probably either O2 sensor problems map sensor problems or injector issues. I am making a page with every gauge I can including injector pulse times, RPM, map, voltage, all temp sensors, timing, o2 redings and corrections. and pretty much every gauge I can fit on one page and I'm going to take a look at what it all does when the lean condition happens. One of you may have just earned 20 bucks.

kbowen4

well I should have done this last night but i was so frustrated i had to just walk away. I did what I said in the post above tonight and as I was watching everything including o2 sensor correction I realized that the o2 system does not start correcting until the coolant temp is 190 or above or so that's why all of a sudden it would run okay because it was adjusting itself 15%(still lean but would run at least). I'm obviously no Pro tuner I just want to make sure all of my Mechanicals are 100% before I go to a tuner with the car and have to just pay him and come home because of fuel issues or other issues like fan problems lol.
So tony pm me with your info, i am a man of my word...even if my word doesn't know what the hell it's doing LOL but hey you only do something for the first time one time.

tony_t

iTrader: (1)

no worries my dude. I'm down to help when I can. No compensation for me is necessary. The other guy was probably closer to your solution anyways 😁

kbowen4

anybody have any idea why my coolant gauge on the dash would read right in the middle while on the temp reading from my laptop plugged into the haltech Reeds about 230? ( this is only sometimes but may lead to why my fans aren't kicking on occationally )did several checks after startup and my fans kick on when the haltech reads 200 or 205 or soI think I read their supposed to kick on at 2007 so that's pretty close to being properly calibrated

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

There is a calibration file for the stock sensor for the haltech. Need to know where you got your base map.

Also..it sounds like you are not "tuned on your car. Where did you get your map? Have you adjusted anything for your specific car?

wannabuy350z

iTrader: (27)

post your tune

kbowen4

I have adjusted the tune to my car(mostly leaning out to get to ideal afrs) but it is not done yet, still tinkering with the air temp map (just welded a sensor bung last week). Last night i believe the thermostat was not opening enough so my new one will be in the mailbox tomorrow hopefully. It could be a air pocket but i believe i got all of the air out.

I wont post my maps just yet because they look horible and need to be smoothed out. ( i need to do some more logging but the overheating set me back some time). The car runs very well now and im just going to leave o2 correction off for the my tuning phase since its not my daily and mpg isn't a big deal.

Thanks for the help guys. Hopefully i can get a video of how a 8374 spools on a z up soon.

bealljk

iTrader: (13)

humble yourself and post your tune ... there is a plethora of knowledge on this form. You never know when one of us is going to save you hours and hours of time and/or a damaged engine bc you overlooked one thing...the devil's in the details...

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

Dude the haltech is not a simple thing to tune...hardest part is that it has so many features and options that you really have to trial and error to see when each is active and in control

I also post here but sometimes it is just an exercise in futility:
http://forums.haltech.com/viewforum....3ea9143403c5ac


I sorted out two of my issues today. 1 more issue left for driveability and then it will be just tuning for steady state (let the tuner focus on that)

Issue #1:
When letting off the gas 100% while in gear the car shudders quite a bit. Its very noticeable. It was in between decel cut and timing when letting off.

The fix was in my zero throttle map. I needed to map out the approximate ign timing for the RPM. Originally had 15, got it now ramping up to 35. Will probably ramp down to 25 at higher RPM. Made it much smoother. Now i can let of the gas, car settles and then you feel decel cut. Also set up decel cut retard to 0 degrees so that my 0 throttle map its the setting.

Issue #2
Light load, light throttle (cruise control on flat to slight hill, little throttle input)
Car would buck a little going from no ignition to actual ignition timing. Appeared to be in the transient throttle:accel ignition adjust. The column for 3000 rpm which would affect the columns next to it had positive and negative values in it. Felt like the ignition was moving about. I made them all positive. So much smoother now on and off the throttle which will keep the car settled and provide a much smoother ride and easier on the drive train (unsprung clutch)


Next issue to put to bed:
dropping out of gear at higher rpm and catching a good idle With and without the AC on. Yes...it still have ac.

current change is to make a 2nd row in the base duty table for idle control. One for ac on, one for ac off. The reason being is that if that table is too aggressive i get idle hunting. Still get a bit at warmup. I have already adjusted my throttle stop screw which helped alot.



So you see op, if we don't share we can't solve issues or help. I am not pro tuner but I have been tinkering with haltech for like 6 years.

rcdash

iTrader: (18)

The coolant fan issues sound like a failing relay or wiring issue or failing fan. Faulty sensor readings are either sensor or wiring. Nothing to do with the Haltech really...

Nice post cux350z on the various driveability tweaks... transient throttle tuning is more art than science.

Cux350z

iTrader: (162)

thanks rcdash.

Fixed the Idle/Ac issue with the modified base duty cycle for ac on vs off.

If you tune the base duty cycle too hot you can get surging in combo with your 0 throttle map.

kbowen4

Thanks for the info guys,
Getting my tables closer to ideal got put to thr side because my smoking issue came back from a few months ago. I thought I ruled out cam timing issues after looking at my haltech Logs with the cam gauges I put on the gauge page but now realize that I only had the target for cams and not the actual cam advancement my bank 1 cam which is where all of the smoke is coming from is going way up on timing when the computer is not telling it to do so. so bank one is blowing air into the intake and eventually fouling plugs. When I unplug the cam solenoid it goes right to zero. I also swapped the insides of the solenoid left to right and the issue was still on Bank One. the targets for Bank 1 / bank 2 are always the same. thinking I may be taking the VVT sprocket apart tomorrow and inspecting the inside. Does anybody know if 0 degrees of advancement is when the gear has zero oil or when it has maximum oil pressure?

aarrgghh

Check the seal under the cam cover first. I had no vtc on one side and after trying sensors, swaping several solenoids and testing wiring, that was the fault.

kbowen4

I think I'm going to try to test voltage to both of the cam solenoids to see if the computer is sending an incorrect signal to bank one and if the signal is correct and its having mechanical issues then I'm going to have to pull that timing cover off to get that cam cap off, going to avoid that if possible but we'll see I guess

kbowen4

I think I'm going to try to test voltage to both of the cam solenoids to see if the computer is sending an incorrect signal to bank one and if the signal is correct and its having mechanical issues then I'm going to have to pull that timing cover off to get that cam cap off, going to avoid that if possible but we'll see I guess