Jim wolf tech TT
11-17-2017, 07:49 PM
#1
Registered User
Thread Starter
Jim wolf tech TT
Hey guys, i drive a 2004 350z, just getting ready to order the twin turbo kit from Jim wolf technology and am having second thoughts. My goal is roughly 650 max and 400-500 for daily. If you're going to tell me 500 horsepower can't/shouldn't be a daily, then don't reply. Is there anybody who has this kit that can give some input or anybody that knows of a better kit and why it' "better" thanks!!
Last edited by Z_Slow350_Z; 11-17-2017 at 08:22 PM.
11-17-2017, 09:42 PM
#2
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
well...I'll start the obvious...
tell us about your built block?
what fuel system do you have?
How are you going to tune?
How much money do you have?
Will you daily this vehicle in the winter?
What vehicle and/or platform did you come from?
tell us about your built block?
what fuel system do you have?
How are you going to tune?
How much money do you have?
Will you daily this vehicle in the winter?
What vehicle and/or platform did you come from?
Last edited by bealljk; 11-17-2017 at 09:43 PM.
The following users liked this post:
BluestreamDE (11-18-2017)
The following users liked this post:
Z_Slow350_Z (11-18-2017)
11-18-2017, 05:58 AM
#4
Registered User
400wtq is the global agreed benchmark for max power on the stock rods on the DE. Not saying it's not possible to make more power on it, but a load of supporting mods must be done to keep it safe and have everything copacetic. 500whp would be pushing it on a stock block DE but good luck.
650whp won't be done safely on a stock block DE, forget about that. You will at the very least need a build short block.
Instead of limiting the responses of ppl with what you may believe would be negative replies to your build plan, I would personally encourage you to be humble and open minded on everyone's suggestions. We are all trying to help you here. But you can't learn if you are already close-minded. Just my .02
650whp won't be done safely on a stock block DE, forget about that. You will at the very least need a build short block.
Instead of limiting the responses of ppl with what you may believe would be negative replies to your build plan, I would personally encourage you to be humble and open minded on everyone's suggestions. We are all trying to help you here. But you can't learn if you are already close-minded. Just my .02
11-18-2017, 07:02 AM
#5
Registered User
Thread Starter
So I already have possession of eagle forged h-beam connecting rods and wiseco forged pistols. As far as fuel rails I'm open minded however I have heard great things about the cosworth fuel rail. I plan on have Mofab (a trusted local shop) tune the car. This will not be my winter car, I will need to invest in a cheaper 4wd car. I currently have 6k which is for the turbo kit but I do know in the end I will be looking at around 15k when all said and done. I chose TT because it SEEMS that SC can't really put up numbers like a turbo. I may be wrong and I would love to hear your opinion, tell me what you know as far as superchargers on a 350z. Also I eventually want to buy Jim wolf techs c9 cams but will save that for some time next year.
11-18-2017, 09:27 AM
#6
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
A vortech wouldnt be bad but def consider a single mid or front mount...maintenance will be significantly easier WHEN things go wrong...and BP would be a great place to find a kit for sure.
agreed
Consider that you're in colorado ... 500whp here is like 550-600 at sea level
I'm 477 on 12psi
very good point ... emphasis on 'humble' ... but the thread is going alright thus far?
I promised Mic I'd play nice ... so I'm playing nice
Great start ... look into what Import Parts Pro, Z1, and other members have on their built blocks ... beams and pistons are a great start.
Do cams at the same time - C9s are probably going to be too aggressive for your build and I believe they are aimed more at an NA build ... you'll spend all day tuning your idle and your lower end ... the DE sucks for idle tuning...it's sad that drilling a hole in the TB is the best solution.
Consider the something in the 260 to 270 range - on a pressurized intake manifold, they'll let plenty of air in. I run the C2 set and they are far from my weakest link.
You might as well do headwork too and upgrade your valves & springs. Look up Heads by Drew out in Aurora ... better than fair pricing, exceptional work, but it'll be 6 to 8 weeks lead-time. Have him deck your heads too.
Look into headgaskets ... I like the OEMs (as I want a artificial weakpoint) but HKS are IMO the best, not a fan of Cometic
Put a new oil pump in it...if you're gonna spin the **** out of the engine check out Jeramiah(Total D) / Sucker Punch Motorsports modified oil pump, the Nismo, or just the Rev-up ... no reason not to replace it while the engines out seeing how important oil is to the system.
Add an oil cooler
Look into stout head/main stud hardware...ARP L19 is a good place to be
what are you doing for downpipes & exhaust?
A great solution for fuel is CJ Motorsports Stage 2 fuel setup - priced fair and all inclusive, full blown stage return system, can utilize the OEM pump assembly and can drop in a 255 or 320lph pump. Nothing against Cosworth but I think you're paying for their name and is that a return system or just the rails?
I like Nick, I even like his old man Bill(no, I really do). I've never met Scott but heard he is legitimately gods gift to the mod world(no hyperbole). Nick tuned my car and he did everything I asked him to do but in hindsight I feel the car is not optimized and I think overly rich in some areas of my map (which I asked him to make me safe - so it's on me). The price for my tune was high/higher but fair in my opinion.
Furthermore I feel the shop did me right. I had a 'failure to launch' dyno appointment where they could have dragged me over the coals(money-wise) but didnt.
To the credit of the shop - I had battery issues(cause I'm dumb), boost control solenoid issues(cause I'm really dumb), and an issue with my VVT solenoid issues(cause haltech) and they were able to help me out 'on the spot'. To Nick's credit, I've throttled the **** out of the car and the engine is still in one piece.
With that being said - be an educated consumer - I'd look into Boost Creep up north and Under Pressure Performance down in springs - after you've done that make the best decision for you.
Def need a winter rig ... my daily is an F150 and it compliments the Z well...plan on spending $2k on a decent/reliable truck/suv - especially if you want to keep your z nice.
$15k is a pretty good start but you'll go over it a little especially factoring in all the small stuff that is forgotten ... put $20 in your head you'll be ok.
And what platform of tuning device do you anticipate?
Nick will be able to tune both Haltech and Uprev. I think Haltech is a better platform (and the best readily available) but you could look into the Link G4+ and MoTec M1 setup ... both are better than Uprev and Haltech but getting them in the states, gettting support and finding a tuner than can optimize your car with those may be challenging ... and they are going to be two to three times more expensive.
Also be cognitive that not all stand-alones are going to be able to pass emissions in colorado.
agreed
Consider that you're in colorado ... 500whp here is like 550-600 at sea level
I'm 477 on 12psi
I promised Mic I'd play nice ... so I'm playing nice
Great start ... look into what Import Parts Pro, Z1, and other members have on their built blocks ... beams and pistons are a great start.
Do cams at the same time - C9s are probably going to be too aggressive for your build and I believe they are aimed more at an NA build ... you'll spend all day tuning your idle and your lower end ... the DE sucks for idle tuning...it's sad that drilling a hole in the TB is the best solution.
Consider the something in the 260 to 270 range - on a pressurized intake manifold, they'll let plenty of air in. I run the C2 set and they are far from my weakest link.
You might as well do headwork too and upgrade your valves & springs. Look up Heads by Drew out in Aurora ... better than fair pricing, exceptional work, but it'll be 6 to 8 weeks lead-time. Have him deck your heads too.
Look into headgaskets ... I like the OEMs (as I want a artificial weakpoint) but HKS are IMO the best, not a fan of Cometic
Put a new oil pump in it...if you're gonna spin the **** out of the engine check out Jeramiah(Total D) / Sucker Punch Motorsports modified oil pump, the Nismo, or just the Rev-up ... no reason not to replace it while the engines out seeing how important oil is to the system.
Add an oil cooler
Look into stout head/main stud hardware...ARP L19 is a good place to be
what are you doing for downpipes & exhaust?
A great solution for fuel is CJ Motorsports Stage 2 fuel setup - priced fair and all inclusive, full blown stage return system, can utilize the OEM pump assembly and can drop in a 255 or 320lph pump. Nothing against Cosworth but I think you're paying for their name and is that a return system or just the rails?
I like Nick, I even like his old man Bill(no, I really do). I've never met Scott but heard he is legitimately gods gift to the mod world(no hyperbole). Nick tuned my car and he did everything I asked him to do but in hindsight I feel the car is not optimized and I think overly rich in some areas of my map (which I asked him to make me safe - so it's on me). The price for my tune was high/higher but fair in my opinion.
Furthermore I feel the shop did me right. I had a 'failure to launch' dyno appointment where they could have dragged me over the coals(money-wise) but didnt.
To the credit of the shop - I had battery issues(cause I'm dumb), boost control solenoid issues(cause I'm really dumb), and an issue with my VVT solenoid issues(cause haltech) and they were able to help me out 'on the spot'. To Nick's credit, I've throttled the **** out of the car and the engine is still in one piece.
With that being said - be an educated consumer - I'd look into Boost Creep up north and Under Pressure Performance down in springs - after you've done that make the best decision for you.
Def need a winter rig ... my daily is an F150 and it compliments the Z well...plan on spending $2k on a decent/reliable truck/suv - especially if you want to keep your z nice.
$15k is a pretty good start but you'll go over it a little especially factoring in all the small stuff that is forgotten ... put $20 in your head you'll be ok.
And what platform of tuning device do you anticipate?
Nick will be able to tune both Haltech and Uprev. I think Haltech is a better platform (and the best readily available) but you could look into the Link G4+ and MoTec M1 setup ... both are better than Uprev and Haltech but getting them in the states, gettting support and finding a tuner than can optimize your car with those may be challenging ... and they are going to be two to three times more expensive.
Also be cognitive that not all stand-alones are going to be able to pass emissions in colorado.
Last edited by bealljk; 11-18-2017 at 10:44 AM.
11-18-2017, 10:54 AM
#7
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
Cost Estimate bc I'm bored:
Turbo/IC Setup: $6000
Cams/Valves/Additional Parts: $2000
Professional Headwork: $500
Headgaskets: $300
Oil Pump: $1000
Oil Cooler: $200
L19 Hardware: $500
Exhaust Setup: $1200
Fuel Setup: $1200
Tuning Device/Widebands/Accessories/BCS: $1500
Tuning: $750
Winter Rig: $2000
Gauges/Visual Feedback: $500
Forgotten ****: $500
Total: $19,150
Turbo/IC Setup: $6000
Cams/Valves/Additional Parts: $2000
Professional Headwork: $500
Headgaskets: $300
Oil Pump: $1000
Oil Cooler: $200
L19 Hardware: $500
Exhaust Setup: $1200
Fuel Setup: $1200
Tuning Device/Widebands/Accessories/BCS: $1500
Tuning: $750
Winter Rig: $2000
Gauges/Visual Feedback: $500
Forgotten ****: $500
Total: $19,150
Last edited by bealljk; 11-18-2017 at 10:59 AM.
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11-18-2017, 03:00 PM
#8
Registered User
Thread Starter
A vortech wouldnt be bad but def consider a single mid or front mount...maintenance will be significantly easier WHEN things go wrong...and BP would be a great place to find a kit for sure.
agreed
Consider that you're in colorado ... 500whp here is like 550-600 at sea level
I'm 477 on 12psi
very good point ... emphasis on 'humble' ... but the thread is going alright thus far?
I promised Mic I'd play nice ... so I'm playing nice
Great start ... look into what Import Parts Pro, Z1, and other members have on their built blocks ... beams and pistons are a great start.
Do cams at the same time - C9s are probably going to be too aggressive for your build and I believe they are aimed more at an NA build ... you'll spend all day tuning your idle and your lower end ... the DE sucks for idle tuning...it's sad that drilling a hole in the TB is the best solution.
Consider the something in the 260 to 270 range - on a pressurized intake manifold, they'll let plenty of air in. I run the C2 set and they are far from my weakest link.
You might as well do headwork too and upgrade your valves & springs. Look up Heads by Drew out in Aurora ... better than fair pricing, exceptional work, but it'll be 6 to 8 weeks lead-time. Have him deck your heads too.
Look into headgaskets ... I like the OEMs (as I want a artificial weakpoint) but HKS are IMO the best, not a fan of Cometic
Put a new oil pump in it...if you're gonna spin the **** out of the engine check out Jeramiah(Total D) / Sucker Punch Motorsports modified oil pump, the Nismo, or just the Rev-up ... no reason not to replace it while the engines out seeing how important oil is to the system.
Add an oil cooler
Look into stout head/main stud hardware...ARP L19 is a good place to be
what are you doing for downpipes & exhaust?
A great solution for fuel is CJ Motorsports Stage 2 fuel setup - priced fair and all inclusive, full blown stage return system, can utilize the OEM pump assembly and can drop in a 255 or 320lph pump. Nothing against Cosworth but I think you're paying for their name and is that a return system or just the rails?
I like Nick, I even like his old man Bill(no, I really do). I've never met Scott but heard he is legitimately gods gift to the mod world(no hyperbole). Nick tuned my car and he did everything I asked him to do but in hindsight I feel the car is not optimized and I think overly rich in some areas of my map (which I asked him to make me safe - so it's on me). The price for my tune was high/higher but fair in my opinion.
Furthermore I feel the shop did me right. I had a 'failure to launch' dyno appointment where they could have dragged me over the coals(money-wise) but didnt.
To the credit of the shop - I had battery issues(cause I'm dumb), boost control solenoid issues(cause I'm really dumb), and an issue with my VVT solenoid issues(cause haltech) and they were able to help me out 'on the spot'. To Nick's credit, I've throttled the **** out of the car and the engine is still in one piece.
With that being said - be an educated consumer - I'd look into Boost Creep up north and Under Pressure Performance down in springs - after you've done that make the best decision for you.
Def need a winter rig ... my daily is an F150 and it compliments the Z well...plan on spending $2k on a decent/reliable truck/suv - especially if you want to keep your z nice.
$15k is a pretty good start but you'll go over it a little especially factoring in all the small stuff that is forgotten ... put $20 in your head you'll be ok.
And what platform of tuning device do you anticipate?
Nick will be able to tune both Haltech and Uprev. I think Haltech is a better platform (and the best readily available) but you could look into the Link G4+ and MoTec M1 setup ... both are better than Uprev and Haltech but getting them in the states, gettting support and finding a tuner than can optimize your car with those may be challenging ... and they are going to be two to three times more expensive.
Also be cognitive that not all stand-alones are going to be able to pass emissions in colorado.
agreed
Consider that you're in colorado ... 500whp here is like 550-600 at sea level
I'm 477 on 12psi
very good point ... emphasis on 'humble' ... but the thread is going alright thus far?
I promised Mic I'd play nice ... so I'm playing nice
Great start ... look into what Import Parts Pro, Z1, and other members have on their built blocks ... beams and pistons are a great start.
Do cams at the same time - C9s are probably going to be too aggressive for your build and I believe they are aimed more at an NA build ... you'll spend all day tuning your idle and your lower end ... the DE sucks for idle tuning...it's sad that drilling a hole in the TB is the best solution.
Consider the something in the 260 to 270 range - on a pressurized intake manifold, they'll let plenty of air in. I run the C2 set and they are far from my weakest link.
You might as well do headwork too and upgrade your valves & springs. Look up Heads by Drew out in Aurora ... better than fair pricing, exceptional work, but it'll be 6 to 8 weeks lead-time. Have him deck your heads too.
Look into headgaskets ... I like the OEMs (as I want a artificial weakpoint) but HKS are IMO the best, not a fan of Cometic
Put a new oil pump in it...if you're gonna spin the **** out of the engine check out Jeramiah(Total D) / Sucker Punch Motorsports modified oil pump, the Nismo, or just the Rev-up ... no reason not to replace it while the engines out seeing how important oil is to the system.
Add an oil cooler
Look into stout head/main stud hardware...ARP L19 is a good place to be
what are you doing for downpipes & exhaust?
A great solution for fuel is CJ Motorsports Stage 2 fuel setup - priced fair and all inclusive, full blown stage return system, can utilize the OEM pump assembly and can drop in a 255 or 320lph pump. Nothing against Cosworth but I think you're paying for their name and is that a return system or just the rails?
I like Nick, I even like his old man Bill(no, I really do). I've never met Scott but heard he is legitimately gods gift to the mod world(no hyperbole). Nick tuned my car and he did everything I asked him to do but in hindsight I feel the car is not optimized and I think overly rich in some areas of my map (which I asked him to make me safe - so it's on me). The price for my tune was high/higher but fair in my opinion.
Furthermore I feel the shop did me right. I had a 'failure to launch' dyno appointment where they could have dragged me over the coals(money-wise) but didnt.
To the credit of the shop - I had battery issues(cause I'm dumb), boost control solenoid issues(cause I'm really dumb), and an issue with my VVT solenoid issues(cause haltech) and they were able to help me out 'on the spot'. To Nick's credit, I've throttled the **** out of the car and the engine is still in one piece.
With that being said - be an educated consumer - I'd look into Boost Creep up north and Under Pressure Performance down in springs - after you've done that make the best decision for you.
Def need a winter rig ... my daily is an F150 and it compliments the Z well...plan on spending $2k on a decent/reliable truck/suv - especially if you want to keep your z nice.
$15k is a pretty good start but you'll go over it a little especially factoring in all the small stuff that is forgotten ... put $20 in your head you'll be ok.
And what platform of tuning device do you anticipate?
Nick will be able to tune both Haltech and Uprev. I think Haltech is a better platform (and the best readily available) but you could look into the Link G4+ and MoTec M1 setup ... both are better than Uprev and Haltech but getting them in the states, gettting support and finding a tuner than can optimize your car with those may be challenging ... and they are going to be two to three times more expensive.
Also be cognitive that not all stand-alones are going to be able to pass emissions in colorado.
11-18-2017, 05:12 PM
#9
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
s
The Haltech Platinum Pro (harness) is a great solution and will do everything you need...just make sure it's not a 100% standalone, its gotta be a piggyback(assuming you have to pass emissions).
Yea, you'll absolutely need a return fuel system if you want more than 300whp. An OEM fuel pump will not suffice.
A 255 lph will get you 400whp, maybe 450whp and it'll be max'd out. A 320lph will yield 500 to 550. If you want 650whp (as dictated in your initial post) you'll need a twin pump fuel basket (which is an additional $900)...and this is if you us gasoline sourced from Commerce City (ie 101) ... if you go E85 ...well, we wont go there.
Talk to others who have more experience with the C9 cams ... I'm not as knowledgeable as I could be.
Scott doesnt tune (I dont think) I think Nick does all the tuning there. Scott bought Mac a little while back. If Scott tunes please let me know.
It'd be smart to do this all at once...phase the purchase out and pay cash for everything ... even if it means waiting a little bit
Read & research what others have done because you are not the first swinging d!ck looking for 650 from a VQ
thanks for the reply, I plan on using the haltech platinum I believe its called. i was only looking at the cosworth fuel rails but i do know that i need a pump and an oil pump and return line as well. I will look into the CJ motorsports stage 2. i also heard the Scott at Mofab is really great and some say the best in colorado and thats why I went with them but ill call the other shops and if needed ill drive down there. I originally wanted to go with the C9 cams because of the rough idle, sounds like V8 music!!! i may be wrong but it sounds like i should just do it ALL at once since ill already have the engine out and apart?
Yea, you'll absolutely need a return fuel system if you want more than 300whp. An OEM fuel pump will not suffice.
A 255 lph will get you 400whp, maybe 450whp and it'll be max'd out. A 320lph will yield 500 to 550. If you want 650whp (as dictated in your initial post) you'll need a twin pump fuel basket (which is an additional $900)...and this is if you us gasoline sourced from Commerce City (ie 101) ... if you go E85 ...well, we wont go there.
Talk to others who have more experience with the C9 cams ... I'm not as knowledgeable as I could be.
Scott doesnt tune (I dont think) I think Nick does all the tuning there. Scott bought Mac a little while back. If Scott tunes please let me know.
It'd be smart to do this all at once...phase the purchase out and pay cash for everything ... even if it means waiting a little bit
Read & research what others have done because you are not the first swinging d!ck looking for 650 from a VQ
Last edited by bealljk; 11-19-2017 at 11:39 PM.
11-22-2017, 08:06 PM
#10
Registered User
It's a good fuel system, I have the Stage 2 as well with a walbro 450 fuel pump. Some advice, get the option for the Aeromotive FPR instead of the Fuel Lab one. I had Fuel pressure issues with the fuel lab and once I switched over it went away. Good luck!
11-22-2017, 09:34 PM
#11
350Z-holic
iTrader: (13)
^sounds like OP duck'd out...seeing that you can buy a 500whp Z33 for as much as it'd take to buy the parts I'm sure he is reconsidering...such is life
I've got the aeromotive FPR and it's been trouble free -
I've got the aeromotive FPR and it's been trouble free -
The following users liked this post:
BluestreamDE (11-23-2017)
12-30-2017, 07:17 PM
#12
I had the Jim wolf 850bb kit, it’s likely over kill for what you want. The 700bb kit should be good for what you want. The C9 cams are way to big for you goals, S1s would be a better option for low/mid range power. I had the S1 cams then went to C2 cams the C2s moved the power band another 500-600rpm to the right over the S1s the C9s are a big step up from that so for a 550-650whp Street car they would suck. I also believe the C9s required machining of the heads for clearance which S1-C2s do not.
